Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

[ste]

5 hours ago, peniku8 said:

I was under the impression that the variable input voltage thing was a doing of the SMPS itself, not PFC. Are you sure these amps have PFC?

I got an email from them announcing the D-3004 with 4x8600W@2Ohm but in the follow up mail their rep said that the amp isn't really 2Ohm stable lol. But if it really performs up to spec, you could run 3 Skrams per channel for a total of 12 cabs off of a 1U amp, which would be pretty sick. But of course pushing the amp pretty hard.

 

On 9/11/2023 at 10:08 PM, peniku8 said:

Nice endfire setup! I'm in the process of building a 4th sub (not Skram but also 21") and will bring all 4 to a wedding next month. I also got a mail from CVR that they released a new 35KW 1U amp. Would love to test it but can't really justify buying stuff just for fun yet lol!

on a 16A 230V i run a crest pro9200 2 Ω Stereo 3,250 W through massive wires and get a tight sound out of eight 8 Ω lavoce 21" drivers in the skrams that will surely be too loud for any wedding application the setup works without breaking the circuit, sounds great and is loud enough for my applications. with the limiters set to avoid amp clipping i have no risk of burning the drivers or overextension. on the wishlist i would say a powersoft x8 would be the optimal amp&dsp for 8 skrams giving total flexibility in setups and cranking the max output.

[chrapladm]

8 hours ago, peniku8 said:

I was under the impression that the variable input voltage thing was a doing of the SMPS itself, not PFC. Are you sure these amps have PFC?

I got an email from them announcing the D-3004 with 4x8600W@2Ohm but in the follow up mail their rep said that the amp isn't really 2Ohm stable lol. But if it really performs up to spec, you could run 3 Skrams per channel for a total of 12 cabs off of a 1U amp, which would be pretty sick. But of course pushing the amp pretty hard.

Ah, I have read about this amp already. 4 x 5000watt 4 ohms. I cant buy anything as of yet but looked at buying possibly the CVR or FP amps for sub power. Would be powering only four Skrams once they actually get built.

[rolo95]

Hey since you mentioned Michael Curtis, i just watched his videos and

I did the inline inverted  cardioid setup and indeed! works like a charm !!

i used only 2 subs but the rear rejection was unbelievable

 

my settings was what he used

68Hz max summation freq, rear sub offset 4.15 ft (50" ) , rear sub delay 3.67ms

since i have passive subs i used an old BSS delay processor i bought for peanuts like 4 years ago  to delay my rear sub

cause the drive rack cant delay the LOW out individually CH1 or CH2, it works like a charm !!! now i need more subs and more amps!! 

i want to build some SKRAMS!!! 

 

[IvanC]

On 8/27/2023 at 2:42 PM, Ricci said:

Nice build pics STE.

Hello Josh, could I have your contact? I have build your Othorns and super happy with them. Cheers, Ivan 

[Tahoejmfc]

Hi Again, I have my 4 Skrams coupled together laying on there sides. Supposedly I get a 6db gain having the subs coupled the way I do. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxHiRfTORnW/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxBrd97yXa9/

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxrt5nxLvu5/?img_index=1

BC21SW152 4 ohm drivers

I am using 2 QSC PL380 amps in Stereo

My generator is a gov surplus Onan Quiet Diesel HDKAV 6000 watt. I am starting to max this genny out, and when I add my lasers I have to put them on a differnet generator. 

I do not use any Dampening because I don't want the Playa dust having a media to cling to inside. 

I am Running Meyer UPQ tops with a 15" drive and 4" horn for my Mains, and Meyer UPJ's with 10" drive and 2" horn for my Fills. 

This System is OFF THE HOOK!!!!

Thanks again Josh, This years Burning Man was fantastic because of your design!!!! Edna is starting to get a big following of BASS HEADS!! YOUR DESIGN KICKS ASS!!! THANK YOU!!!

 

[Domme]

Two weeks ago I hosted my second public soundsystem show along with a friend. The pair of Skrams I built (loaded with NSW6021-6s and powered by a K20) played super loud and clean. We received a lot of gratitude from the crowd and other local soundsystem crews praised the clean sound of the system. Unfortunately we had power issues (to be exact, there was no power at all coming from the designated socket... ouch!) and after we fixed it there was not much time to do a proper soundcheck but you could easily tell that most of the bass was coming from the Skrams, and we're not even talking about low-end performance. It was such a difference when I went to a quite popular local techno club last weekend. I could have cried about what is thrown at you after you have to pay 15€ entrance fee...

 

I decided to upgrade to 4 Skrams this winter. That's all my van can handle and it will already be super cramped... my friend is selling his horns and wants to upgrade to Type O paraflex cabinets with 21" drivers. I tried to persuade him to bulid 4 Skrams instead but he prefers the more classic/roots look of the type Os. Anyway, once we are done building them I will drive on a field and compare them. Two cabinets, one measurement method.

[Jjzamo]

Could the main brace (part L) be cut as a rectangle picture frame with three of the sides 50mm and the bottom 110.4? Or is there some sort of acoustic advantage to having the oval cut out and corner circles? Thank you!

[Domme]

20 hours ago, Jjzamo said:

Could the main brace (part L) be cut as a rectangle picture frame with three of the sides 50mm and the bottom 110.4? Or is there some sort of acoustic advantage to having the oval cut out and corner circles? Thank you!

Hi Jjzamo,

Acoustically it shouldn't matter. You sacrifice some stiffness because you have a little bit less material distant from the outer edge (area moment of inertia) but it really should be negligible. It would also make mounting the driver a bit easier.

The corner holes are for weight saving.

Cheers,
Domme

[Jjzamo]

3 hours ago, Domme said:

Hi Jjzamo,

Acoustically it shouldn't matter. You sacrifice some stiffness because you have a little bit less material distant from the outer edge (area moment of inertia) but it really should be negligible. It would also make mounting the driver a bit easier.

The corner holes are for weight saving.

Cheers,
Domme

Thanks Domme! No CNC here so just trying to think about easier setup for myself.

[Domme]

On 10/27/2023 at 3:15 PM, Jjzamo said:

Thanks Domme! No CNC here so just trying to think about easier setup for myself.

I did those cuts with a jigsaw and manually routed the baffle (G) and the mouth braces (R) because they are visible in the finished construction. No CNC needed (although it would make things easier...)

 

Does anybody have experience with amps for an NSW6021-6 in a Skram? Or 4 Skrams to be exact? As I said I have 2 Skrams now and a Powersoft K20 and want to build 2 more. In theory I could put another 4 on the K20 (2R then) but I feel like they could use more headroom and I would also lose control on 2 Skrams for array operation. An X8 could easily drive 4 with enough headroom, but I could not add more because of bridged operation (only 4R rated) and the quite unusual driver impedance (6R). An X4L on the other hand would enable me to add more later (up to 12) but I would get diminishing returns in the headroom department. It would not be a real headroom benefit compared to the K20 if I should ever operate 6 Skrams and even with 4 it's not a lot of headroom gain compared to the K20, especially considering the high price (I could possibly get around 2-3 additonal K20s for the price). So right now I feel like an X8 would be the only true upgrade headroom-wise, it would offer me delay control on each individual cabinet, but would also limit me to 4 Skrams in total (probably not to bad because my back already says no anyway). A tough and expensive decision no matter which will be the result... I think I will first build and try my K20 on 4 Skrams and decide then but a nice little discussion on the amping topic would have my interest for sure.

Cheers,
Domme

[klipsch]

4 hours ago, Domme said:

I did those cuts with a jigsaw and manually routed the baffle (G) and the mouth braces (R) because they are visible in the finished construction. No CNC needed (although it would make things easier...)

 

Does anybody have experience with amps for an NSW6021-6 in a Skram? Or 4 Skrams to be exact? As I said I have 2 Skrams now and a Powersoft K20 and want to build 2 more. In theory I could put another 4 on the K20 (2R then) but I feel like they could use more headroom and I would also lose control on 2 Skrams for array operation. An X8 could easily drive 4 with enough headroom, but I could not add more because of bridged operation (only 4R rated) and the quite unusual driver impedance (6R). An X4L on the other hand would enable me to add more later (up to 12) but I would get diminishing returns in the headroom department. It would not be a real headroom benefit compared to the K20 if I should ever operate 6 Skrams and even with 4 it's not a lot of headroom gain compared to the K20, especially considering the high price (I could possibly get around 2-3 additonal K20s for the price). So right now I feel like an X8 would be the only true upgrade headroom-wise, it would offer me delay control on each individual cabinet, but would also limit me to 4 Skrams in total (probably not to bad because my back already says no anyway). A tough and expensive decision no matter which will be the result... I think I will first build and try my K20 on 4 Skrams and decide then but a nice little discussion on the amping topic would have my interest for sure.

Cheers,
Domme

I'm running a sinbosen FP20000 - lab gruppen clone. If you have 240v access, that should handle 4 skrams very well. 

[Waipy]

Would be any issue replacing the 12mm parts with 15mm apart from weight? 12mm is hard to find at good prices lately.

I am thinking about the bottom part and if the increased wood width reducing the volume will affect the output in any noticeable way.

[klipsch]

17 hours ago, Waipy said:

Would be any issue replacing the 12mm parts with 15mm apart from weight? 12mm is hard to find at good prices lately.

I am thinking about the bottom part and if the increased wood width reducing the volume will affect the output in any noticeable way.

The thicker wood will decrease volume internally, of the horn, and the ports. Will it have a noticeable impact? I am inclined to think it will not, but doing the math is the only way to be sure if you will care about the change for your time, effort, and cost. 

[Domme]

On 11/3/2023 at 7:48 PM, Waipy said:

Would be any issue replacing the 12mm parts with 15mm apart from weight? 12mm is hard to find at good prices lately.

I am thinking about the bottom part and if the increased wood width reducing the volume will affect the output in any noticeable way.

While I don't have a comparison I made everything in 18mm because 12mm wasn't available from my supplier at the time. Does it sound bad? No. Does it sound worse? Can't tell.

I will do some measurements once I finish my second pair (also in full 18mm to match the existing ones).

[peniku8]

Well just think about it.. the port is how wide? 600mm? Now you increase bracing thickness by 18mm total (three braces iirc). So you lose 18mm of port width from your 600mm which is 3%. Make your port area 3% smaller in hornresp and see how much the response changes (hint: no).

[Sushi]

Hello, i just need a tip from CVR amps users out there.. i know there is some here.

 I'm going to buy a pair of amplifiers, and i got whatsapp contact with Mila (seller) after i found the number on instagram.. idk it just feels a bit weird and unsafe as a method of purchase, and considering also the fact i tried to contact them twice at the email address on their website and had no answer, i just wanted to know if anyone have purchased his own amps with this method. 

Thanx!

[heresyreznor]

I can get the B&C 21SW115 for quite cheap on sale, is there any significant downside as opposed to using the 21DS115?

[peniku8]

16 hours ago, heresyreznor said:

I can get the B&C 21SW115 for quite cheap on sale, is there any significant downside as opposed to using the 21DS115?

no, go for it.

[biberius7]

are these plans still available somewhere? can't find any working links

[klipsch]

24 minutes ago, biberius7 said:

are these plans still available somewhere? can't find any working links

First post has links that work for me

[biberius7]

Thanks, wasn't logged in last time I checked those links, my bad.

[lawbadman]

Question for the more proficient woodworkers here.

Referring to baffle brace J in the construction plans.

I don't have a CNC machine, I only have a table saw, circular saw and jig saw. My tools are usually only good for square or rectangle cuts.

Can anyone advise me on the best method/trick of accurately making the 6 degree angle cut (on the right side) with the tools that I have? Its a tricky cut with the tools I have...

 

Thanks

[peniku8]

Draw a 1:1 sketch onto the wood (optional but helpful). Then make a 6° jig for the table saw and cut it where it needs to be cut

15 hours ago, lawbadman said:

Question for the more proficient woodworkers here.

Referring to baffle brace J in the construction plans.

I don't have a CNC machine, I only have a table saw, circular saw and jig saw. My tools are usually only good for square or rectangle cuts.

Can anyone advise me on the best method/trick of accurately making the 6 degree angle cut (on the right side) with the tools that I have? Its a tricky cut with the tools I have...

 

Thanks

 

[lawbadman]

On 12/18/2023 at 2:55 PM, peniku8 said:

Draw a 1:1 sketch onto the wood (optional but helpful). Then make a 6° jig for the table saw and cut it where it needs to be cut

 

Thanks for the advice, it worked out easier than I thought. I should have my first skram in time for the new year!

[lawbadman]

IV now finished my first skram. It was a really tough build since I'm not a woodworking expert. My biggest mistakes are badly cut top, bottom and side panels. I need to find a way to accurately cut 4x8 plywood. Suggestions are welcome. The internal pieces were good as my table saw did the job just right.

Initial sound testing is ok so far with a brand new Lavoce SAN215.30. It seems the deep bass(35hz and lower) could only be heard right up close to the enclosure. 20 feet away and I heard nothing under 35hz. I figure multiple enclosures would solve this anomaly 🤷🏾‍♂️.

In any case it sounds good, I hope to paint it soon and then build a second enclosure by Easter. And I'm probably the first person in Jamaica to build a skram 😁 

Many thanks to Ricci for this project 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

 

btw would you guys mind sharing your EQ settings?