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peniku8

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  1. https://www.avsforum.com/threads/diy-mid-hi-bms-coax-2x-12-b-c.3006048/ Almost the same setup, I think @dsl1 was very happy with it
  2. The magic of PFC... love it
  3. Thanks for the paper, I've been looking for some more info the topic! If you had access to a flow sim software, you could probably get some decent info out of that, even if it works with (non compressible) liquids.
  4. Bennett from B&C suggested setting the true long term power limits around 1/10th of the program power, which would be 500W for an ipal for example, or 360W for the 4,5" 21DS115. I have no clue how good the cooling is on the Pyles, but power handling also depends on cabinet type, as you get less excursion (so less cooling) in sealed cabs for example, but I'm pretty sure you're not using sealed cabs for PA. You could try running the sub at a certain power limit for a while and measure the TS parameter shift. Or measure it acoustically and see where power compression sets in, maybe that is a
  5. What I found interesting is that, as SME already described, I think the reference point for 'loud' music listening at home (mid and near field) is around 80dbA, which is where the 'excitement' starts and I feel engaged with the music as my main element of sensual stimulation. In a live setting in a large hall or outdoors, I found that this 'excitement' starts at pretty much exactly 100dbA. I've mixed a show at 97dbA and it was just lacking excitement. When I boosted the overall volume to around 100dbA, it was there, 103db and it was too loud. My show still was a few db less loud than the main
  6. Weapons of mass destruction..!
  7. I did use complex Le and my vent area are more than yours, even if you double the numbers to combine the two ports. I will PM you my HR inputs, but I usually manipulate the inputs there in a way to get results closer to real-world expectations. My thoughts on the design after a while: -I've used them at a few weddings and the performance was great. I have a sub-octaver on the cajon, which adds a nice 40-45Hz low end to the kick drum, which would be hardly achievable with run off the mill 12" PA designs tuned to 55Hz and what not. -They can take a lot of power and I've never noti
  8. I finished a 6Ch amp build made from two Hypex FA123 yesterday. It's a lab amp for speaker testing, so it has all connections on the front. It's not the prettiest and already has a bunch of scratches, but hey, at least it's got cable management..!
  9. Wow, that's a clean looking build, nice!
  10. Designing a crossover requires measuring the drivers' frequency and impedance response, which means you'll have to build and fully assembly the speaker to do so. If that hasn't been done, the crossover is more or less a random assembly of components and it delivering optimal results is about as likely as winning the lottery. Like SME already mentioned, the question here is if you want to: -design and build a speaker outperforming a store-bought solution at the same price or for even less money (typical DIY approach) -design and build a speaker just for fun, with no particular focus o
  11. The MDF I have is 800kg/m³ and my ply is 650kg/m³, which makes the MDF 23% heavier. My dad has some old Klipsch speakers made from plywood which feels like half the weight of the plywood I'm using for my subs, there are huge differences. I worked a lot with MDF lately (for studio monitors) and I'm not a fan of it. Won't hold screws well is my main issue here, since I don't care about the dust (my 7KW dust collector leaves nothing on the cnc). Will probably switch to carb2 CDF for the baffles at least, even thou it's literally 6x the cost. Those old Klipsch speakers are a mess imo. Light p
  12. A nice video on the topic by Bennett Prescott, B&C US sales manager:
  13. The driver can handle around 400-500W true long term average power, which is about 55V at Zmin. You'll have to find out the minimum impedance of the driver in the cab to be sure, but pure voltage limitation isn't ideal anyways.
  14. You're gonna have a really bad time if your crossovers are not specific to the components and the cab they're built into, unless you're planning to throw a dsp at it
  15. Yea, but 700AUD is 440€ and the 21DS115 can be had for 400 here atm, if you take 4. Last time I ordered I paid 380 per driver (bought 2). Am B&C OEM now thou, so I can order directly. Can't tell those prices for obvious reasons
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