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peniku8

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peniku8 last won the day on January 14

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About peniku8

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  1. I think the cost of BB is hardly significant here
  2. I didn't get the amp to power cycle at 10Hz, however it did so below 10Hz. REW starts its measurement sweep one octave below the start frequency (and does a fade-in or w/e) and the amp would shut off at the 5Hz input. But I'd not go with Hypex amps if I wanna get sub 10Hz, I'd probably want something with a bit more power. Even 400W at 5Hz probably produces no meaningful output 😅
  3. Well yea, if it's mass produced manufacturing that will be less, but if you go to a CNC shop and ask them what it would cost for them to cnc, build and paint that thing I doubt it'll come in much below 3k including the 500 or 1000$ worth of BB. And the extra 4k is markup as I said. I don't think Powersoft sells you a finished subwoofer for the parts cost.
  4. Good info there Momo, everything on the list there is a tad cheaper than I expected But still, you pay 3000 for the driver and 2500 for the full plate amp. That's 5500€ excl. VAT, so you pay about 7k USD for the components. Now add plywood and manufacturing costs and you end up right in the 10-15k ballpark I outlined before with some wiggle room for markup. Does Powersoft actually sell the finished subs or are these subs just concepts to show what M-Drive can be used for? From a DIY perspective I think the driver+amp combo isn't too expensive (for what it delivers).
  5. Don't think anyone here is planning to buy a 10-15k sub if he could DIY a blazing bass inferno for that money. I'm also pretty sure that M-Force is only sold to OEMs and installation companies, so if you want one you'd probably not be able to buy it directly.
  6. The 451 curve looks like a free air plot. Forgot to close the hatch? 😅
  7. peniku8

    Ascendo

    What exactly is this setup being used for? I see no center speaker, so it's not a dedicated HT setup, but I don't really see a point in running a 32" sub in a music setup when you already have two 21s. Might sound crazy, but since the space is so big a single sealed 32" might be on the weak side if you want solid sub 10Hz (which only makes sense imo if your wood flooring allows enough flex on the concrete for TR). Also, that space screams for acoustic treatment, but it looks quite new so I guess you're in the process of setting it up? What kind of room correction are you running and how are
  8. I've recieved an answer and they suspected this phenomenon was caused by bad contact of the speaker connector on the amp. I had the amps stored on a shelf in the warehouse for a few months, so it makes sense that there was some dirt build-up and corrosion-like effects (humidity never exceeds 60% there thou, so it's only minor), since the amps were unpacked. Running a higher current through the connector seems to literally clean it, which reduced the distortion. The more you know..!
  9. Small update on the Hypex amps: according to them all amps are tested at the factory and run through a burn-in period there. I suspect that this step was skipped because the amps were on back order already (I waited 2 months to get my amps in mid 2020 due to the pandemic), but of course this is nothing but a speculation from my side right now. I voiced the same thoughts to Hypex and waiting for their take on that. Will keep you posted
  10. That's correct, but they don't actually change by much, especially at only 50W per 3KW element (which is 100W into 8R=two elements in parallel). For 4R tests that's 4 elements in parallel already, so it's only about 30W per element on the FA123.
  11. I've reported my findings to the guys at Hypex and they're looking into it now, will keep you guys updated
  12. The good thing about testing low power amps is that I don't have to fill the loadbank up with water. Random facts: It would take about 10 minutes to heat up the water in the tank to unsafe levels (beyond 60°C) at 3650W, which is the maximum power I can draw from the 230V 16A wall socket. I'd need 500KW of power input to boil the entire body of water within a single 10 second test. A full 10 second test at 5KW would heat up the water from 23°C (room temperature) to about 24°C. Heating the water to 'lukewarm' would take about 5 minutes at full available 3,6KW power i
  13. I'll be posting some measurements of the Hypex FA123 soon. I'll also update my tests to streamline the process a bit. What frequencies would ppl be most interested in? I thought of doing 1k, 60Hz for bass performance and 20Hz for sub-bass performance. I don't wanna take too many measurements, since everything multiplies so a 4 channel amp into 3 different loads with 3 different frequencies already makes 3^3=27 tests (1ch 2ch 4ch; 1khz 60hz 20hz; 8R 4R 2R). I might as well drop the 1ch measurement for 4 channel amps as an edge case like that doesn't make much sense.
  14. I'd love to test this amp with my loadbank. I'd also love to test if it'll explode being driven at max after a while like my Sanway did.
  15. 20Hz tests with 3 +10db low shelves at 50Hz which means +30db at 20Hz: -23V unclipped baseline @ 0db reference -+10db no issues, just clipping -+20db no issues, just clipping -+25db amp shuts down after a few seconds, output muted SCL engaged at 125W4R: -22V unclipped baseline @ 0db reference -nothing changes except the clipping output signal turns into a "clean" signal Master input was at +4db on the amp and I raised that to +14 for signals over 20db into clipping because I ran out of output on my interface Overdrive tests: -SCL set to amp specs (125W@4R) -Clean at
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