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peniku8

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peniku8 last won the day on June 5

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  1. I think the Powersoft X8 is the only amp I know that delivers the power you're asking for in a small space with more acceptable fan noise than those clone amps produce. It's by no means quiet, but the fans ramp up and down very quickly and in the video I've seen the amp didn't seem super annoying at idle. The X8 does 8x1600W into 8R in 2U, but will also drive 2R and below. You'll get SOTA processing and features, but also a SOTA price tag.
  2. Did you add baffle gain calculated in Edge to the hornresp prediction? In my last project I got the predicted response to be within 1dB of the actual half-space response, but I had to double the baffle size in Edge (maybe that's the effect of the half-space loading: it mirrors the baffle on the ground basically), hence way more upper bass than hornresp predicted. I'm not sure how this translates to larger cabs, but it was spot on with my single 21", a tad smaller than the Skram. Hornresp was also fed with the set of complex inductance parameters. I used the specs for the 21ds115 you measured. Same thing applied to my 1x12" sub. Model response was spot on with the measurement.
  3. By "lack of cone control", do you mean non linearity in the translation from electrical to kinetic energy or do you mean cone flex? The former can be remedied by a stronger motor, the latter through a stiffer cone. Both problems are challenges to the designer, not to the end user. Any properly designed driver will play predictably based on the Klippel graphs. For B&C drivers I think it's the Xvar value, which is a general rule of thumb for when the driver behaviour will transition into non-linear territory. If this was a huge issue, big drivers wouldn't be so popular.
  4. Did you do those tests yourself? How was the M-Drive set up, did it was an additional heatsink/ventilation or just the module by itself with its two small fans?
  5. The 3000pfc's datasheet states 4000W of total (symmetrical?) power output, which would underpower 2 drivers, let alone 4. If you wanna use 2 21ds115's to the maximum of their capabilities you will need pretty much twice as much as the Digimods are capable of. I ran my FP13000 unlimited&bridged into the Skhorn (4R) no issues (music, not sine waves). That's a bit overkill, but I'm trying to run 4 drivers off one amp, which the M-Drive seems to be a good match for.
  6. Yea, certainly good for a no-compromises build for maximum output density. I feel like the M-Drive should be powerful enough to drive two Skhorns when you load em with 22ds115's. I think I'll buy one to test, I need a good amp with the Powersoft feature set anyways. And I'd prefer active subs.
  7. I got this gasket tape https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0792JGC2H/ Easier alternative for handles: https://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=H1105G for https://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=H1105
  8. https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speaker-lavoce-san216-00ip-1-ohm-21-inch.html
  9. To answer my own ramblings from 3 years ago, since I know better now and I couldn't just leave this as is: since the two drivers fire into the 12° horn in a mirrored fashion, they will each behave as if they were loaded into a separate 6° horn. Sawing the Skhorn in half will technically work just fine. Most hardware rattles and I think it would be really hard to keep butterfly latches under control, so that idea is sadly also a dud. And no more wondering what it would sound like after sawing it in half without adding new side panels: it becomes a vented cab with lots of wasted extra space and a really silly driver mounting.
  10. Wow, exciting! Looks extremely similar to the B&C in every regard, kinda like the SAN214.50 is to the 21ds115. Sadly only 10% cheaper, so not like this is going to be a game changer.
  11. @RicciHow would you feel about M-Drive in a Skhorn? Overkill unless you go IPAL?
  12. You mean dado joints like on this board? I use them mostly to make the assembly easier, since it's hard to get the position wrong when everything slots right into place. It doesn't help much with structural integrity unless you do like 10mm or so I'd say. I do 3mm too. Doing this without a CNC is a massive waste of time imo. I only drew a sketch on to the floor board when I built my Skhorn and went from there.
  13. Yea I have one. Opposed firing woofers is the way to go imo. I have a 2x10" dual opposed sub in the studio, it's great. But kinda required an even number of drivers, which makes subs quite a bit less portable
  14. The TH118 is a tapped horn, but neither my sub nor the Skram are. They're both vented frontloaded bandpass cabinets. They sound and perform great, but I wouldn't build them again. The 21ds115's move the stack (sub+ARCS=250lbs) around. If you're planning on making a line of cabs in front of a stage they'd all be moving all over the place if you drive them near their limits. I heard the Othorn experienced similar issues. Skram fires forward, so it doesn't 'lift' the cab when the driver is working.
  15. @rolo95My subs are my own custom designs. Imagine Skram with half the horn length and the driver downfiring. ARCS Wide/Focus have been replaced by their new A series, which fills the gap between point sources and line arrays less well than WiFo did imo. But Martin Audio released the Torus series, which seems very similar to what ARCS WiFo is, with some additional features. Probably in the same ~4k price range depending on your region/dealer. ARCS are quite a bit heavier than Torus though. As for SPL vs money I've been saying that 21" has been most cost effective for quite a while now, even before covid. Two 15ds115's will surely outperform a single 21ds115, but look at the price. I personally think it doesn't get much better from a cost per SPL point of view than 21ds115 or the very similar LaVoce driver.
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