Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


peniku8 last won the day on March 29

peniku8 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

57 Excellent

About peniku8

  • Rank
    Ultra Member

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. What I found interesting is that, as SME already described, I think the reference point for 'loud' music listening at home (mid and near field) is around 80dbA, which is where the 'excitement' starts and I feel engaged with the music as my main element of sensual stimulation. In a live setting in a large hall or outdoors, I found that this 'excitement' starts at pretty much exactly 100dbA. I've mixed a show at 97dbA and it was just lacking excitement. When I boosted the overall volume to around 100dbA, it was there, 103db and it was too loud. My show still was a few db less loud than the main
  2. Weapons of mass destruction..!
  3. I did use complex Le and my vent area are more than yours, even if you double the numbers to combine the two ports. I will PM you my HR inputs, but I usually manipulate the inputs there in a way to get results closer to real-world expectations. My thoughts on the design after a while: -I've used them at a few weddings and the performance was great. I have a sub-octaver on the cajon, which adds a nice 40-45Hz low end to the kick drum, which would be hardly achievable with run off the mill 12" PA designs tuned to 55Hz and what not. -They can take a lot of power and I've never noti
  4. I finished a 6Ch amp build made from two Hypex FA123 yesterday. It's a lab amp for speaker testing, so it has all connections on the front. It's not the prettiest and already has a bunch of scratches, but hey, at least it's got cable management..!
  5. Wow, that's a clean looking build, nice!
  6. Designing a crossover requires measuring the drivers' frequency and impedance response, which means you'll have to build and fully assembly the speaker to do so. If that hasn't been done, the crossover is more or less a random assembly of components and it delivering optimal results is about as likely as winning the lottery. Like SME already mentioned, the question here is if you want to: -design and build a speaker outperforming a store-bought solution at the same price or for even less money (typical DIY approach) -design and build a speaker just for fun, with no particular focus o
  7. The MDF I have is 800kg/m³ and my ply is 650kg/m³, which makes the MDF 23% heavier. My dad has some old Klipsch speakers made from plywood which feels like half the weight of the plywood I'm using for my subs, there are huge differences. I worked a lot with MDF lately (for studio monitors) and I'm not a fan of it. Won't hold screws well is my main issue here, since I don't care about the dust (my 7KW dust collector leaves nothing on the cnc). Will probably switch to carb2 CDF for the baffles at least, even thou it's literally 6x the cost. Those old Klipsch speakers are a mess imo. Light p
  8. A nice video on the topic by Bennett Prescott, B&C US sales manager:
  9. The driver can handle around 400-500W true long term average power, which is about 55V at Zmin. You'll have to find out the minimum impedance of the driver in the cab to be sure, but pure voltage limitation isn't ideal anyways.
  10. You're gonna have a really bad time if your crossovers are not specific to the components and the cab they're built into, unless you're planning to throw a dsp at it
  11. Yea, but 700AUD is 440€ and the 21DS115 can be had for 400 here atm, if you take 4. Last time I ordered I paid 380 per driver (bought 2). Am B&C OEM now thou, so I can order directly. Can't tell those prices for obvious reasons
  12. Holy crap, that Dayton is more expensive there than a 21DS115 is here Should be reasonably good in the Skram thou, Bl is high enough for it to make some rumble in the cab.
  13. I think the cost of BB is hardly significant here
  14. I didn't get the amp to power cycle at 10Hz, however it did so below 10Hz. REW starts its measurement sweep one octave below the start frequency (and does a fade-in or w/e) and the amp would shut off at the 5Hz input. But I'd not go with Hypex amps if I wanna get sub 10Hz, I'd probably want something with a bit more power. Even 400W at 5Hz probably produces no meaningful output 😅
  15. Well yea, if it's mass produced manufacturing that will be less, but if you go to a CNC shop and ask them what it would cost for them to cnc, build and paint that thing I doubt it'll come in much below 3k including the 500 or 1000$ worth of BB. And the extra 4k is markup as I said. I don't think Powersoft sells you a finished subwoofer for the parts cost.
  • Create New...