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  2. On my way through the forum I came across a sketch Ricci put in another thread which looks pretty similar to my sketches, except the front chamber being a horn like in the skram design (and its for a 21" chassi). What are the advantages/ differences using a horn instead of a volume + vent? I would tip on more output due the compression, but because it´s physics, there must be some tradeoffs? Can anyone help me understand how to splice this design into sections to put it into hornresp, and with what kind of compression ratio I should start messing around with? Alternatively, are the
  3. Last week
  4. you can see it here - https://beqcatalogue.readthedocs.io/en/latest/aron7awol/59350372/ the spike is clearly visible on the heatmap view
  5. I´m working with two friends on a high end sound reprudaction system, and although this is our first project, we are about to aim for the highest. The main Speakers use an Mundorf Pro AMT with two Beyma 12MC700ND in closed boxes, in MTM config., driven by a FP10k. Under the mains, we use two skrams, loaded with the 21ipal + Mod, another two are hopefully coming soon. Now we are designing a smaller Setup for monitoring or to use in smaller rooms. For the heights we use again a Mundorf AMT (for half the price as seen in the link, but still crazy expensive, but they are worth all the Mone
  6. I see. Does he work with impedance data and measurements for the particular drivers? That's necessary to get a high quality result, and then said crossover won't deliver equivalent results with different drivers. I have no idea, sorry. See my last post: "The problem with the CH201 apart from the steep drop above 10 kHz is the horn termination being too short, which messes up frequency response between 3-6 kHz." I personally wouldn't choose it for any of my designs, but I may have different priorities than you.
  7. Peaks at 30 and 60 Hz are harmonically related, which means they likely potentiate each other perceptually. And I wouldn't be surprised if those movie scenes happened to have peakiness at those same frequencies. I suspect this is a trick used on some live sound stages---EQ boost at the kick drum fundamental and a few of its harmonics, tweaking the relative levels by ear as needed---to get a very powerful slam effect, albeit at the cost of lost clarity of content elsewhere in the spectrum. This may be the "easy" way to get slam, but the result is very much conditioned upon the content, which
  8. I see what you mean, I was only talking about ELC and how it relates to my experiences with both sinewaves and real content, in a "high fidelity" system. I agree, linearity is a huge deal. Listening/feeling experiences with an old system of mine with large peaks at 30 and 60Hz were significantly different from a later system that had much better control of the room via acoustic treatment, mode cancellation via multiple subs, proper headroom and proper seat placement with some EQ thrown in to tame the largest leftover resonances...that system was very good. What is strange is that in som
  9. Good to see you back on the forum! See my above post. I would have agreed with all of this like three years ago. Now I'm a heretic. I believe this kind of analysis is seriously flawed. Equal Loudness Contour data is interesting, and I think it describes real trends in apparent loudness vs. frequency. However, it is a big mistake to generalize about complex music signals from data obtained using pure tone sine waves. I'd argue this is *especially important* when trying to reason about audibility thresholds. Pure tone sine waves are very unusual in nature, and our brain's reaction to
  10. The article listed on that page: http://www.filmaker.com/papers/RM-WhtPpr_Subwoofer Camp.pdf Brings up something that few do, except MonteKay: http://www.mfk-projects.com/Home_Theatre/theatre_woofer.html It is a very important point. Due to the way our ears 'hear', a near infrasonic sound must be played back more cleanly than a midrange sound in order not to have upper harmonics 'color' it due to equal loudness curves. I did several experiments with my first decently low distortion subwoofer system and it is enlightening seeing total harmonic distortions of just above
  11. I have this film, and this it how it graphs. From about 1:33 to about 1:39, there is a strong 20Hz effect, you can see it in the average and peak graphs. At one point it is encoded as hot as 108-109dB If played back at 'Reference Level'. With a real low distortion playback system, it would lend an ambience to a scene that many would find disconcerting. Low distortion 20Hz playback is rare to achieve. JSS
  12. I've built subs out of cheaper hardwood ply and MDF before. The cheaper ply works but is more vulnerable to damage than BB ply, this can to an extent be made up for by rounding (and filling if there are voids) the corners and using a tough coating. MDF is horrible to work with, heavy and vulnerable to damage at any exposed edge. I would use cheaper ply rather than MDF. I don't use screws I use a brad nail gun and glue, this way you can build a cab very quickly!
  13. Earlier
  14. Designing a crossover requires measuring the drivers' frequency and impedance response, which means you'll have to build and fully assembly the speaker to do so. If that hasn't been done, the crossover is more or less a random assembly of components and it delivering optimal results is about as likely as winning the lottery. Like SME already mentioned, the question here is if you want to: -design and build a speaker outperforming a store-bought solution at the same price or for even less money (typical DIY approach) -design and build a speaker just for fun, with no particular focus o
  15. THANKS FOR ALL THAT 3things 1. i didnt build the xovers i had them made by Bill Daniels at D+S TECH LABS as iv had a few some far made by him an they work fine 2.have you heard of or know if is www.audiovideoparts.com reputable to buy from 3. what do you think of the https://www.audiovideoparts.com/ecommerce/en/1725-ciare-ch250-bicono-250mm-150w-max-4i.html Ciare CH250 http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Ciare/CH250 the xover i had made has a attenuation down by -6db past 400hz
  16. BB holds screws better as well. In general I avoid MDF or HDF when possible, especially on larger cab sizes. For things like small monitors and car subs it isn't a bad choice to save some money.
  17. I have never heard of them. A few internet searches may be in order.
  18. No, but not because of the different impedances. The biggest issue is that the high frequency section is a lot more efficient than the low frequency section and needs attenuation to play at the right level. Another issue is that you really need a high low pass filter for the mid or else it will make a mess of your upper mid response. And you probably want to cross closer to 1500 Hz. More generally to get good sound quality you really need a crossover that's custom designed for the combination of drivers, which for your case is actually 3 different drivers. In your first post, you said
  19. does anyone know if is www.audiovideoparts.com reputable is this a good driver https://www.audiovideoparts.com/ecommerce/en/1724-ciare-ch201-bicono-200mm-200w-max-4i.html
  20. does anyone know if is www.audiovideoparts.com reputable https://www.audiovideoparts.com/ecommerce/en/1724-ciare-ch201-bicono-200mm-200w-max-4i.html
  21. is ther a equivalent to the Ciare CH252 for under 175$ that has near same fq response an same ohm an wattage
  22. does anyone know were i can get the Ciare CH252 any legit website
  23. with the B-C-10CXN64-8-10 could i wire in parallel to 4ohms with a added crossover on the hf termanils like the Dayton Audio 2k-HPF-8 High Pass Speaker Crossover 2,000 Hz 12 dB/Octave
  24. Has anyone measured the content of the 1917 movie? Near the end there is some ominous low frequency bass. Reminds me of the Hunger Games raffle scene. Can someone measure to see what frequency range that is on 1917?
  25. I will agree to pretty much everywhere here. BB is nice for things that get big, even if you don't move it much. When you do need to move it (and you will) you won't regret the BB.
  26. The MDF I have is 800kg/m³ and my ply is 650kg/m³, which makes the MDF 23% heavier. My dad has some old Klipsch speakers made from plywood which feels like half the weight of the plywood I'm using for my subs, there are huge differences. I worked a lot with MDF lately (for studio monitors) and I'm not a fan of it. Won't hold screws well is my main issue here, since I don't care about the dust (my 7KW dust collector leaves nothing on the cnc). Will probably switch to carb2 CDF for the baffles at least, even thou it's literally 6x the cost. Those old Klipsch speakers are a mess imo. Light p
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