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  1. Today
  2. Another trick that's probably good enough for most purposes is to just shove a measurement mic into the port and run a sweep (don't run the level too hot, because it's *way louder* inside the port.
  3. Yesterday
  4. I have been looking for something that can minimize crossover complexity for my first speaker build. It has to be a 2 way. There are a some good compression drivers that go down to 500hz and maybe a little lower. The TAD TD-4002 is too expensive to play with. The Celestion Axi2050 can hit 225 to 300hz with a little harmonic distortion for a third of the price. I don't know where I will find a K402 horn set. Patience will hopefully pay off. My Aurasound NS18's are sitting a few feet away; they will take care of the bottom end. Patience worked while looking for them. I've seen a few mentions on this forum for the K402's. Any chance somebody can help me find a set? I'm thinking this setup will do better than the JBL M2 system I have wanted. I'll try an Acoustic Elegance bottom end as well. I plan on learning the hard way. Reference: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/199267-celestion-axi2050-2-compression-driver-on-k-402-horn-and-jubilee-bass-bin/ Sorry Ricci...just noticed you already did what I finally discovered. Maybe that is a good thing. Lol.
  5. Impressive ports. The 15DS should be one of the very best 15" drivers. The best way to find tuning is to measure the impedance of the box W.R.T frequency where it will be at the minimum value between the two peaks. If you only have a microphone you could also try looking for a notch in the near field of the woofer response and peak in the port response but this may be complicated by their close proximity.
  6. Last week
  7. Outer dimensions are 43x58x65,5cm so ~164L. I think I could have lowered the net volume (~90-95L, B&C suggest 80L), also at the cornes I loose a little volume, but as mentioned, the limiting factor was the port lenght and to fit it inside the cab without to bend it while letting the front big enough for driver and vent flares. Some other facts about the cab: The "main" front is 30mm, plus 15mm added under the driver cutout to have enough depth for the 40mm Flare, and another 15mm at the backside of the front, as reinforcement for the driver (30mm-20mm would have left just 10mm for screws) and as pipe-holder. (this one was meant to be 12mm, I just didn´t think about it and used 15mm instead). So at the thickest part, the finished front is 60mm or 2,36" thick, yet it wasn´t that heavy, obiusely because the front is mainly just three holes rather than remained material. All the other parts were made of 15mm MPX, but as you can see, i didn´t skimp on brazings, so the cab should still be pretty stiff.... I hadn´t time to put it on a scale yet, and this one isn´t a lightweight for sure, but at least, a single person is able to lift it up and put it on a wheel board. I will post measurements as soon as i have time to make some. The ones I did to test tuning frequency were really dirty (no fix mesaurement distances and even bader, a back panel that was hold together with clamps, as I had to be able to remove the pipes through it to make them shorter). Actually, I always made a ~2m ground plane measurement and another one at the outlet of the port. With the second one it was pretty easy to determine a tuning frequency, although I have no idea how close this one comes to an impedance measurement. Honestly, I don´t even know why it´s important to know the exact tuning, or how I can find the optimum, but the measurements showed some dB more around 40Hz with the shorter port, still there was enough low end in the listening test. The great thing is that the ports are so big, that it should be ok to close one of them for small gigs or a home theatre show at home, tuning drops down to ~25Hz with one port closed.
  8. Great looking build. What's the outer dimensions of the cab?
  9. Yes I did, its more a less the same as on the front without the cutout for the driber but with less space at the cornes, as they are used for the handles
  10. Looks like a hell of a party! I still haven't got my 4th together yet but my next event is in just over a month so i've finally got a reason to do it. Been a terrible couple of years for the event industry and the future isn't looking bright for a while yet. Got some new amps for the top end that will hopefully be here by then as well, a couple of Powersoft M50Q which means il actually be able to lift my amp rack in and out of the venue finally (dropping nearly 60kg off the total rack weight)
  11. Thanks for the update and info! Did you end up using any flare or round-over on the inner end of the ports?
  12. I've finally built my first self- designed subwoofer. I decided to go for the 15DS115, ~90L net Volume and big ports with 3D adapted flares. The difficult part was actually to make the front small enough that the ports fit within the depth of the speaker, while trying to get as much flare area as possible. A simple 40mm flare radius would have made the front much larger. Tuning was more or less a blind shot. The vents were removable and I tryed 3 different lenghts before they and the back panel were glued. As I ran out of time, I measured just some short sweeps in REW, trying to tell the tuning frequency from the SPL and phase graph and then cut some cm off the vent pipe Tuning should be somewhere at 38 Hz now, but that's just what I can tell from the Rew measurements. I put more than 90 hours into the design, but therefore it is a n enjoyment to put all the parts together and see how perfectly all of it fits. I havn't really tested them to their limit, they are way to overpowered as monitor subwoofer, but I'm looking forward to hear and mwasure what they are capable of. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/frit8jmum8ptds3/AADfJ97ODnKO5Y4Gz1iBtawva?dl=0
  13. Mine don’t, but they have a newer dsp model that might
  14. You mentioned running limiters. Do the CVR amps have true power limiters? I'm looking for an affordable amp with a proper limiter and plenty of power. I own two Sanway amps (an FP13k and a D10Q, which is a dsp amp), but both have pretty useless peak limiters...
  15. Earlier
  16. Sed, Winisd isn't very accurate. It doesn't include inductance effects for subwoofers. It also doesn't include baffle and directivity effects. Sealed cabs are very easy. There really is no tuning. Put it in a 23x23x23 cube and power with a big amp. It is very hard to damage this driver. Look at the testing done here on the systems page. Note the voltage used for the maximum level output sweep. Pick an amp that can provide this voltage or under. Done.
  17. Maybe some of this would be helpful? The Subwoofer DIY Page - Sealed Systems http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/
  18. ...Did I ask the wrong question..? 🙂. @Ricci, anyone?
  19. So how this all ended up? I just received my 21SW152-4, and plan is to pair it with my two cubo18 loaded with RCF L18P400. Mostly for listening all kind of music at home but now and then weddings and other partys a bit louder. All I want that the 21" would do, is going ~35hz to down low as down as possible. There is that one drawing, but with slotted port calculator its tuned way too high? Or am I missing something? Wanna try something simple with one port this time tho.
  20. Dave released an interesting video regarding bridge mono use. I gotta give it another watch or two to digest it more. This is something I’ve never come across, is anyone in here utilizing this technique? Seems to offer some nice benefits. https://youtu.be/HYbvA1DOR9A
  21. Hi, I came here because I can't find answers I am looking for in other forums. I am designing a sealed subwoofer using the above driver. Technically I am trying to replicate a similar response to one that Ricci tested here in 2019. The cabinet size and input power are the same; 20K Watts FP20000Q Amp, 6.12 ft3. However, modelling this on WinISD shows that excursion gets past max at 25Hz. I have set the distance at 2 meters and input power is 2500 Watts. I can't get the model to behave and stay within excursion limits. I am aiming for single digits in-room, that is why I am replicating Ricci's model. Can anyone, please, share how I can tune this to get the around similar measurements Ricci got within Xmax? FYI, I am a newbie, looking to learn from experts. Also, if possible, someone please share the details on how to use Linkwitz Transform to predict in-room. Thanks in advance.
  22. Yeah man, just a pair of 3002’s on the 6 Skrams on 15 amp plugs, the venue has shit for power. Still zero complaints, they work hard, stay cool and sound great. Think the k10 is getting lonely staying at home all the time, I’ve actually put it up for sale
  23. That looks dope! Were you running them off the CVRs?
  24. Doubtful...The only things that break in on a driver are the soft parts (suspension compliance). I'm not a big fan of DATS... Have you measured other drivers with this setup that were close to mfg spec? I know some have had good repeatable results but others have not. The more ridged and stable the driver can be made, the more accurate the results will be. You definitely want the driver in a horizontal position as well. Use a decent amount of voltage. 1 volt + is better. Driver specs are expected to vary some 30% or so by major mfg's. Double the spec is way out of whack though.
  25. I was running about 20% down from where the start of the limiters would engage during the headliner slot, so yeah lots of headroom remaining. I feel like I’ve had some breakthroughs this summer with tuning, I can get things sounding real full and impactful without it ever feeling tiring or abrasive, it’s a real pleasure to listen to. Open invite dude, I’m a big fan of alien technology, let’s set up a play date another clip recorded from the mezzanine upstairs, notice the bass warping the video recording…. Some serious pressure going down https://youtu.be/_Y7Y0FqIJfw
  26. I don't know how big your events are, but I imagine you are running with quite a bit of headroom there? I mean, those Danleys get pretty loud, and you say they match well with the 6 Skrams in your usage? I hope some day I get to meet you, to see/hear your setup, and maybe even get to try out my "alien technology" in your signal chain.
  27. SME


    What is your measurement apparatus like? Is the woofer measured down-firing or side-firing? And is it mounted on a well-anchored, large open baffle? Or is it free air? These things might make a significant difference, which may be more pronounced with some drivers than others. I've only ever measured my drivers the "wrong way"--- facing up on a table top, and my BL measurements almost always come in a bit below spec. Except once, when I tipped and carefully held a driver in a horizontal orientation for an impedance sweep so I could compare. I did read a higher BL that way, but not as high as spec. I suspect a properly anchored measurement jig would close the rest of the gap. Either way, my final product(s) have tended to perform closer to manufacturer's specs, so I just accept that my measurement methods tend to low-ball BL.
  28. successfully used this tool to do some tricky alignments like a 100-400Hz horn with a cluster of 100-400Hz horns of different length. With a decent initial guess (tape measure) you can easily see what delay gives the best result.
  29. reading a qes that is dbl spec....whats the chances of this getting to spec via break in?
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