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  2. Josh, Do you happen to have hornresp data you can share? Would like to model some drivers in both the gjallarhorn and the othorn. Thank you!
  3. I second going for the better driver, more of an investment upfront but it will never leave you wondering what you are missing. Good luck with the build! I'm currently piecing together another pair.
  4. I think i'm going to put dowels or maybe milled grooves to keep panels in place during the building process, i usually do that along with clamping and shooting nails. This will help a lot, also for the rest of bracing panels for the chamber (which i will probably make out of 15mm birchply, mostly cutouts i've got laying around from other builds) I'm quite the same kind of person too, once i commit in a project i aim at best results, despite my modest means. I would probably choose B&C because it's one of the best and it's easily available in my country. I am curious though, about those italian designed/chinese manufactured speakers as more and more builders are finding them to be a valid choiche.
  5. I wish I had added some double sided work on the bottom panels for assembly to make clamping easier for those areas (the panels around the tuning ports). Everything else was fine for assembly. Good luck! I'm a buy once, cry once type of individual - I'd go B&C or Eminence, unless you aren't the type of person that will wonder 'what if' by going with a "lesser" driver.
  6. Hi everyone! Thanks for this interesting thread, and thanks Josh Ricci for this brilliant design! I've red the thread multiple times last year and i'm reading most recent posts today. Now i'm actually looking forward to build my first pair of Skrams! 🥳 First of all, i would like to make a slight change in the port layout, using 2x18mm braces (instead of 3x12mm) to match the double braced horn mouth. On paper this should make no change in port tuning, as it would not alter the total port area.. it would obviously limit low tuning options (having one vent duct less to block) but it won't be a problem for me honestly.. i'd rather be more worried about having less bracing on the port, but in my experience 2x 18mm panels should be enough to brace a 600mm surface.. never built a cab for a strong motor 21' driver though, so please feel free to give your opinion about any nasty consequences this mod could cause! i'd like to use B&C 21DS115 8ohm, but i've also considered the SAN214.50 cause it is way cheaper and i've seen many are using it with good results.. no chance they would match B&C quality, but it seems they are worth their price.. 8ohm impedence would be my choiche anyway, as i plan to build two more subs in the future and run them parallel, 2 drivers on each channel of a 2ch amplifier. Amp will probably be a CVR D3302 which i've seen used succesfully by Jay (props for you mate, and congrats for your system development, you did a great job). I already have some baltic birch ply and i'm lucky enough to have a friend who works as a full time carpenter and CNC operator. We both have some experience in speakerbuilding. We just have to find the time to draw the box on cad and make some long awaited sawdust. If there's any advice you guys feel you can give me, i'm all ears! Cheers!
  7. Earlier
  8. I'd just make more skrams, but would love to see you make ckrams and share your experiences
  9. i have one pair of skram box with b&c 21ds115 4ohm So now i purchased some lavoce 21 drivers so thinking for ckram
  10. It literally 2 comments above yours lol
  11. How does it measure? Doesn't sound like 16Hz... sounds like distortion
  12. Do you have any measurements ?
  13. A much belated "Thank you for your response" I ended up building a different dual opposed this year and can verify that the there is no need for thick baffles; as the vibration is VASTLY reduced this way. Hope things are going ok for you.
  14. There are dxf files in the beginning of the thread - the CAM work can be done using those CAD files
  15. Both! Which one fits better in your space? Which one is easier / cheaper to make? Are you only making one sub? Do you already have drivers?
  16. is there any cnc cut list for mdf sheet 4feet x8 feet
  17. For movies Skram vs ckram Which one is good
  18. Yes, glued and clamped with some Brad nails in some parts
  19. Heres the cutlist for 2440x1220 ply Skram 12mm cutlist.pdf Skram 2440x1220x18mm cutlist (1).pdf
  20. Model them and compare or take the outputs provided by gsg and compare. I hope you have a really good DSP as the Devastators need it. The skram performs better, uses less wood, takes up less space. I also would not consider either design as ultra low.
  21. Where can I access the Skram files? I can see them on the thread but it says they are unavailable, do I need anything specific to access them?
  22. Hey every one hope every think is going well Do 8x stereo integrity ht18 v3 (marty box) Perform well then The 4x lavoce 21inch (devastator) subwoofers Room size 17 feet wide and 21 feet length and 12 feet high dedicated for home theater How the mid and ultra low basses of 8x 18s compair to 4x 21s Only for movies Thanks
  23. Yesterday switched amps for subs duties; previously used my Crown K2 to feed a pair of 8 ohm-load MicroWrecker tapped horn subs (w/B&C 15TBX100's), and my Lab.Gruppen FP6400 to (also actively) power the bass bins (4 ohm load) of my Electro-Voice TS9040D LX pro cinema speakers. Now with the FP6400 taking on my tapped horns I'm surprised to find out how more hard punching, controlled and clean the bass sounds by comparison. The K2 almost sounded a bit wooly next to the FP6400 - bass "with a belly," not least down very low. The K2 on the EV bass bin however works just fine (perhaps even slightly better vs. the FP6400 here), covering only a ~85 to 600Hz range with 36dB/octave cut-off slopes in both ends. Instead of 500W to the TH subs and 2.3kW to EV bass bins it's now 1.3kW to the subs and 800W to the EV bass bins. I take it wattages is really the least of it though, as I'm never near the limits of the performance envelope of either amp. Nonetheless it's enlightening seeing how different amps can affect the reproduction of bass, even at more "sane" SPL's.
  24. went with the 'B' rack solution of two EXTRON XPA 2004, more than enough power for home use. This also means my other rack is less restricted on noise so I can replace my Yamaha with high power Gisen amps and shrink that rack size and weright. The Yamaha also have decent re-sale value so the total cost is low.
  25. How I miss this insightful tests.
  26. What were the dimensions of the screws you used for the assembling?
  27. Thanks for your replies, @jay michael and @peniku8. It certainly appears the Skram is a very versatile performer, and that from a fairly limited size all considered and still hitting quite deep in frequency. An impressive combo. And of course, yes - the TH118 trades a few extra dB's in sensitivity with less extension compared to the Skram. I should've looked at little closer at the specs.. Interesting findings on the sonic differences here. They would seem to mirror what I've read earlier in this thread in a comparison between the Othorn and Skram. I use a pair of tapped horns myself (15"-loaded with a ~23Hz tune, @20cf. volume per cab), and can relate to your descriptions. They're just effortless or unflappable and indeed very smooth sounding down low, and I find that to be a great trait also when watching movies on Blu-rays/4K UHD's. The sheer LF output from movies on named formats can be quite overwhelming, not least when reproduced so cleanly and forcefully, and I remember settling on the TH principle (instead of the more classic FLH) to more readily accommodate movie soundstracks (in conjunction with music playback) and their potentially prodigious LF output, with TH's having excursion minima at the tune.
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