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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2021 in all areas

  1. Blowing out the cobwebs today
    6 points
  2. Hi everyone! I'm new to this forum, after beeng very active on different forums here in Norway. Over the years I've built and restored about 200 different cabinets for speakers in my small workshop, and my latest one is the Skhorn. I've also built six Othorns, but these Skhorns are among the largest cabinets I have done. I built three, two for a customer and one for myself. All the parts are cnc'd out of 18 and12mm BB at a friends workshop. I think the build was relative easy compared to the Othorn. I'm going to use the Ipal driver, and will start testing tomorrow with a Crown Itech 6000 am
    2 points
  3. My recommended driver for these is the Eminence NSW6021-6.
    2 points
  4. Finally got time to spraypaint my one remaining SKhorn today. I used Warnex paint and an inexpensive HVLP spray gun. After to layers it lookes pretty ok I guess. Tomorrow I will turn it over and finish the cabinet. After this and finishing the build, I will also glue some acoustic foam in the back chambers, as Ricci suggested.
    2 points
  5. I finished a 6Ch amp build made from two Hypex FA123 yesterday. It's a lab amp for speaker testing, so it has all connections on the front. It's not the prettiest and already has a bunch of scratches, but hey, at least it's got cable management..!
    2 points
  6. I don't know if you saw my skram built on page 26 or so, I built 2 of them, made of popplar plywood with a carbon-epoxy layer around to make it stiffer. Then we made the front out of 25mm transparent acryl glass, just to loose the weight savings due to the 10kg (just a wild gues, I forgott the real numbers) of those fronts haha. We didn't put them on a weighting scale yet, but without the heavy front, they would be ridiculously light! So light that we will make a base filled with sand to make sure they dont move more than the drivers do. We also didn't fire them up, but that will happen s
    2 points
  7. Excellent work. The response looks very good. No surprises.
    1 point
  8. And here's some measurements (with UMIC1 and REW): Red: All six ports open Green: Two ports plugged Blue: Four ports plugged No EQ was applied here.
    1 point
  9. Chiko, I'd suggest putting some damping in there behind the drivers. It should clean up the top end a bit and "tighten" the sound.
    1 point
  10. Thank you guy's for the awesome inputs, my apologies for the late reply. Much appreciated for side by side comparison of the ipal and nsw Ricci. Although the NSW offers the best bang for the buck, I might try an external series ipal setup, albeit with some thick ass wires. 6 is kinda pushing it for that amp, even with the 152s...specially if I want the damping factor to remain high Been keeping this box on the dl but it's basically similar to the th18 but slightly modified for 21'' woofers, code named the hornicator, I haven't done any measurements on it yet but it sounds hella goo
    1 point
  11. Looks like great work Hunsbedt! Good job.
    1 point
  12. Do 4 skrams instead
    1 point
  13. 8 Stereo Integrity HT18s (2 aren't pictured as they are behind the first row of seats) get 4 channels from 2 cheap inuke 600s The 2 NSW21s in the 2 skrams and 8 PA460s (4 per box with a series parallel wiring between boxes) get 1 channel each of a sinbosen FP20000Q 230v (have an unused channel right now out of the 4 available) Headroom is pretty good. I'll run 75 to 80 db A weighted and hit 105 to 110 db C weighted for music at the main listening position with an RTA running.
    1 point
  14. I'll just add that subwoofer responses are mostly minimum phase (MP). What this is implies is that the magnitude frequency response (FR) essentially *determines*, the phase and group delay response. They are mathematically interchangeable. If you have a MP system and you have perfectly flat FR, then the group delay (GD) will be perfect *by definition*. Real subs always have at least a low-end roll-off somewhere, and you will usually see group delay rise and peak in the area of the roll-off transition. The most notable exceptions to "mostly minimum phase", where subs alone are concerne
    1 point
  15. Hell yeah Jay. Looks awesome. Probably sounds alright too. 😏
    1 point
  16. Excellent. Please post some pictures after paint. I'd recommend some foam lining placed strategically in the back chambers to knock down HF garbage.
    1 point
  17. Finally got everything up and running. 8 pa460s (2 boxes - each has 4 pa460 in a 2x2 dual opposed sealed box). 6 HT18s sealed up front from 0-60hz. 8 PA460s sealed from 10 to 110hz 2 Nsw6021 skrams 31 to 110hz Bass uniformity across all 7 seats improved a bit. If I were starting from scratch, I'd do 16 pa460s sealed and 4 Nsw6021 skrams. Crazy how these pa460s can only be 70ish bucks shipped with bulk pricing and 15% coupon discount. Integration all done via a 10x10 minidsp.
    1 point
  18. Good luck with the amplifier build. I too will have 502s (6 channel amp - 3 modules). Will be using them alongside the nc500s for the surrounds. These modules continue to provide clean power with efficiency.
    1 point
  19. I didnt think there was too big of a worry with 91db sensitivity speakers as opposed to 99db or above. Ala horns and active setups.
    1 point
  20. The story is not so pretty down here, im in new zealand and bee dub is in australia i believe. In nz 18mm birch is nearly 130usd per sheet and the story will be similar in ozy... economy of scale and shipping exspense, it is what it is! Hence a lot of guys down here trying for easier on the pocket options!
    1 point
  21. I wouldn't go for a lightweight plywood like that for a design like this. Think of the cabinet like a musical instrument, the stiffness and density of the cabinet will contribute to the sound in many ways. If the cabinet can vibrate and resonate with the driver movement it will color the sound coming from it and you may not be happy with the outcome. If you can't do baltic birch you could get away with mdf as it quite solid and dense, its pretty heavy though.
    1 point
  22. G'day! First up, hello, and let me add my thanks to @Ricci for the generous provision of your plans and knowledge. I've gotten interested in live sound recently after long absence, but this time have carpentry/joinery skills in my back pocket! I can't wait to build my first Skram once the appropriate number of pennies have been saved for a driver. For @h3idrun, I know your pain as a fellow payer of the Australia Tax! I've spent quite a bit of time researching buying drivers, so for what it's worth, here are some observations that may help: - I've found TLHP in France to
    1 point
  23. after 4.5 months of preperation and four 12h days for assembly, we finished our second skram, the first one world wide with an acryl glass front? We didnt measure the weight yet, but although the front has about 12kg, it feels a lot lighter than our prototype made of birch, as we used popplar instead. It also feels rock solid due to the carbon-epox enhancement on all surfaces and edges, but the measurements will show if the light material has any disadvantages...
    1 point
  24. Not replacing, just adding and no, they don't really fit lol.... But that's never stopped me before! I was just messing around with their placement in the back of my room this morning. I won't be able to have them directly behindy sofa but on an angle, they will work (only because my equipment cab is directly behind the seating) but be a bit tight to get to my rack. It's only me in there 95% of the time, so it's all good. I'm in the process of figuring out how to EQ everything... Man, I with there was just a box with hpf/lpf knobs and that's it. That's really what I need.
    1 point
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