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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/26/2021 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. I was running about 20% down from where the start of the limiters would engage during the headliner slot, so yeah lots of headroom remaining. I feel like I’ve had some breakthroughs this summer with tuning, I can get things sounding real full and impactful without it ever feeling tiring or abrasive, it’s a real pleasure to listen to. Open invite dude, I’m a big fan of alien technology, let’s set up a play date another clip recorded from the mezzanine upstairs, notice the bass warping the video recording…. Some serious pressure going down https://youtu.be/_Y7Y0FqIJfw
    3 points
  3. I've finally built my first self- designed subwoofer. I decided to go for the 15DS115, ~90L net Volume and big ports with 3D adapted flares. The difficult part was actually to make the front small enough that the ports fit within the depth of the speaker, while trying to get as much flare area as possible. A simple 40mm flare radius would have made the front much larger. Tuning was more or less a blind shot. The vents were removable and I tryed 3 different lenghts before they and the back panel were glued. As I ran out of time, I measured just some short sweeps in REW, trying to tell the tuning frequency from the SPL and phase graph and then cut some cm off the vent pipe Tuning should be somewhere at 38 Hz now, but that's just what I can tell from the Rew measurements. I put more than 90 hours into the design, but therefore it is a n enjoyment to put all the parts together and see how perfectly all of it fits. I havn't really tested them to their limit, they are way to overpowered as monitor subwoofer, but I'm looking forward to hear and mwasure what they are capable of. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/frit8jmum8ptds3/AADfJ97ODnKO5Y4Gz1iBtawva?dl=0
    2 points
  4. Sed, Winisd isn't very accurate. It doesn't include inductance effects for subwoofers. It also doesn't include baffle and directivity effects. Sealed cabs are very easy. There really is no tuning. Put it in a 23x23x23 cube and power with a big amp. It is very hard to damage this driver. Look at the testing done here on the systems page. Note the voltage used for the maximum level output sweep. Pick an amp that can provide this voltage or under. Done.
    2 points
  5. This is the whole rig for now, I don’t think I’ll be adding anything more until we see what the future looks like…. Fucking covid. It’s perfectly balanced as is, I’d need more danley’s to keep up to more Skrams so the next leap would be expensive Haha. first time running it in a block like this, we melted some faces off, bass for days holy shit https://youtu.be/Bp4opVAjbZ4
    2 points
  6. Graph above shows THD at various voltages. Starting level = 2.83 volts Ending level = 22.5 volts
    1 point
  7. I do like the 402 a lot. They aren't cheap if buying new. Mine were 2nd hand and have some wear and tear. Still expensive. Think it was about $1200 for the pair after shipping from Cali. Doesn't bother me because they are in an ugly warehouse room anyway. Sounds better to me than the 2360A's. The 2360A's do load the low end better / deeper.
    1 point
  8. Yes I've been running these on K-402's for a couple of years. I have a ton of measurements that I planned to post but never got around to. Eventually. Long story short...None of the CD's really want to be playing down that low. They may claim 500Hz but even on a very large horn that loads decently they get nasty with any real volume. The 2050's are better than any others I'm aware of. I settled on a 370Hz Xo with mine. The distortion rises precipitously below 350Hz. They may be fine down to 300Hz in a home with 0.25 volt drive levels, but for any real use with loud playback I'd recommend no lower than 370Hz with a 3rd order filter and that's on a BIG horn like a 402 or a 2360A. For work in a pro setting in a huge venue I'd consider 500Hz the minimum with 600Hz being better/safer. None of the other CD's on the market (Except for some of the exotic dual diaphragm mid units) want anything to do with that low of a crossover in a pro use scenario, no matter what the spec sheet says. If your use is at home with flea powered amps and much more subdued playback levels you can get away with a much lower Xo. The Axi2050 provides roughly a half octave better low end extension and lower distortion when driven that low than most 4" vc 2" cd's. The top end is decent but they weren't able to totally defeat physics. Smaller, lighter diaphragm CD's will have better sensitivity, distortion and output >10kHz. The 2050 sounds fine up there but it does give up something. That's the tradeoff. I'm far more concerned with SQ in the 400-10Khz area than I am with >10kHz so it works for me. Sounds killer in the midrange. I put 22.5 volts through them during distortion testing. Wore ear plugs and shooting muffs. I am not in a hurry to do that again. It's weird when you can sense/feel the pressure from treble!
    1 point
  9. Outer dimensions are 43x58x65,5cm so ~164L. I think I could have lowered the net volume (~90-95L, B&C suggest 80L), also at the cornes I loose a little volume, but as mentioned, the limiting factor was the port lenght and to fit it inside the cab without to bend it while letting the front big enough for driver and vent flares. Some other facts about the cab: The "main" front is 30mm, plus 15mm added under the driver cutout to have enough depth for the 40mm Flare, and another 15mm at the backside of the front, as reinforcement for the driver (30mm-20mm would have left just 10mm for screws) and as pipe-holder. (this one was meant to be 12mm, I just didn´t think about it and used 15mm instead). So at the thickest part, the finished front is 60mm or 2,36" thick, yet it wasn´t that heavy, obiusely because the front is mainly just three holes rather than remained material. All the other parts were made of 15mm MPX, but as you can see, i didn´t skimp on brazings, so the cab should still be pretty stiff.... I hadn´t time to put it on a scale yet, and this one isn´t a lightweight for sure, but at least, a single person is able to lift it up and put it on a wheel board. I will post measurements as soon as i have time to make some. The ones I did to test tuning frequency were really dirty (no fix mesaurement distances and even bader, a back panel that was hold together with clamps, as I had to be able to remove the pipes through it to make them shorter). Actually, I always made a ~2m ground plane measurement and another one at the outlet of the port. With the second one it was pretty easy to determine a tuning frequency, although I have no idea how close this one comes to an impedance measurement. Honestly, I don´t even know why it´s important to know the exact tuning, or how I can find the optimum, but the measurements showed some dB more around 40Hz with the shorter port, still there was enough low end in the listening test. The great thing is that the ports are so big, that it should be ok to close one of them for small gigs or a home theatre show at home, tuning drops down to ~25Hz with one port closed.
    1 point
  10. Looks like a hell of a party! I still haven't got my 4th together yet but my next event is in just over a month so i've finally got a reason to do it. Been a terrible couple of years for the event industry and the future isn't looking bright for a while yet. Got some new amps for the top end that will hopefully be here by then as well, a couple of Powersoft M50Q which means il actually be able to lift my amp rack in and out of the venue finally (dropping nearly 60kg off the total rack weight)
    1 point
  11. Maybe some of this would be helpful? The Subwoofer DIY Page - Sealed Systems http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/
    1 point
  12. Doubtful...The only things that break in on a driver are the soft parts (suspension compliance). I'm not a big fan of DATS... Have you measured other drivers with this setup that were close to mfg spec? I know some have had good repeatable results but others have not. The more ridged and stable the driver can be made, the more accurate the results will be. You definitely want the driver in a horizontal position as well. Use a decent amount of voltage. 1 volt + is better. Driver specs are expected to vary some 30% or so by major mfg's. Double the spec is way out of whack though.
    1 point
  13. I don't know how big your events are, but I imagine you are running with quite a bit of headroom there? I mean, those Danleys get pretty loud, and you say they match well with the 6 Skrams in your usage? I hope some day I get to meet you, to see/hear your setup, and maybe even get to try out my "alien technology" in your signal chain.
    1 point
  14. Jay how many of these do you have built now? 8?
    1 point
  15. Yeah it's heading back toward lockdown quickly here. I've already had a tour (performing not doing sound) canceled and a few spot dates with other bands that are likely to be canceled. Tour was billed right when things opened back up and reversed direction almost immediately. I've got a lot of friends who work as stage hands, or sound engineers and it's been devastating for them. It's a tough time to be a performing artist, bar or sound provider. Hell any type of person who makes a living from public gatherings.
    1 point
  16. Hello Cam, To add a bit more to Kyle's post, group delay is WAY over rated when it comes to subwoofers. Lower is better make no mistake but the perception of it at low frequencies has not been shown to be very audible unless it gets very bad. Studies have shown that as frequency decreases we are more tolerant of large GD and it is much more difficult to distinguish. Personally I don't worry about it below 30Hz. 20ms at 50Hz is probably not worth worrying about. 20ms at 200Hz on the other hand should be quite audible. This is why group delay is often represented as a percentage of a cycle vs frequency. With subs I only have concern if the delay is not uniform (spikes, sudden increases in certain frequency bands above 30Hz, the delay exceeds 1.5 cycles > 30Hz, or a combination of both. If the GD is relatively smooth over the primary bass range and remains below 1 cycle I don't worry about it. Room acoustics tend to do horrible things to the time response at the listening position that dwarf the native GD of the sub anyway.
    1 point
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