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  1. Ok. I had a look in HR. It had been awhile. I'd recommend a 3rd order BW at 24Hz or a 4th order LR HPF at 21Hz. This is for operation with all vents open. 4th order LPF adjusted to taste for blending with the mains. Somewhere between 50-120Hz. 70-100Hz is probably what would work for most. The response looks quite good with just the high and low pass added. This is the response with the 21SW152-4. Most of the other recommended drivers are going to be close to this as well. If you want to take it a bit further You can add a single band of PEQ at about
    3 points
  2. Hey guys. While not as rigorous as the excellent testing in this thread I put together a little vid doing some light testing and listening comparisons between the chinese CVR branded 3002 amplifier up against a Powersoft K-10. Might be a good option for people looking for some decent performance at a good price point. Maybe you will find it interesting. Ill have this set up for a couple more days so if you're quick and send me a request for ideas for further testing I can try to accommodate
    3 points
  3. No offense to RF as they do have some sharp guys but the whole, driver optimized for sealed / vented / BP and don't use it in another alignment, is for the most part antiquated thinking from back before modern signal processing. There are drivers that are better suited to some jobs than others make no mistake, but this is not one of those. Usually the reason you will hear that drivers are not suited for sealed is the qts is too low (IOW too efficient) and without EQ it will be bass shy because the top end gains sensitivity quickly and overpowers the low end without EQ. In this case RF is assum
    3 points
  4. Hey Josh. Curious if you would be willing to make a recommendation for high and low pass filters with recommended slopes your Skram design. It’s been a while since I’ve had mine out with the pandemic and all, but I’m planning a day at our studio tomorrow to get everything plugged in and spend some timing tuning and tweaking. Planning to get the measurement mic out and spend some time dialing in the system so I don’t get rusty haha. I’ve been happy with the setting I’ve been running which I don’t remember off hand but I’ve got some different amps on hand so willing to try some new things. Anoth
    2 points
  5. Had my next party on Sunday on the beach with my 2x skrams and 2x Martin W3 tops running from an inverter in my Prius from 2pm till nearly 2am, averaged around 1000w into the whole system (including the CDJs and amps and a few LED lights) and used about 5L of fuel in the car. Around 150 people at the peak of the dancefloor, everyone seemed to love it! Definitely need to build 2 more of these things and upgrade to the proper drivers for even better sensitivity to keep up with the tops
    2 points
  6. I've recieved an answer and they suspected this phenomenon was caused by bad contact of the speaker connector on the amp. I had the amps stored on a shelf in the warehouse for a few months, so it makes sense that there was some dirt build-up and corrosion-like effects (humidity never exceeds 60% there thou, so it's only minor), since the amps were unpacked. Running a higher current through the connector seems to literally clean it, which reduced the distortion. The more you know..!
    1 point
  7. This is pretty close to my findings too, I ran 80hz on bass music and 100hz on house/techno, I'll probably try 110hz next time for a little more punch. 12db LR for both, I haven't needed a high pass yet as I've running bugger all power so far.
    1 point
  8. No stress, I can dig through it again. I did play around again a bit over the last week and I think to my ears at least I still like 100 to 110 hz crossover for most music styles. If I drop it down to 80-90 I think it sounds a bit better for stricktly bass music, but for house and techno, rock etc I prefer it a bit higher. Then again its harder hearing it proper indoors. Depending on our pandemic situation when summer rolls around I'm pretty keen on heading out to crown land for a number of days just to work on tuning.
    1 point
  9. I'm in Adelaide. I have a pair of 21SW152's sitting on a shelf still waiting for me to build my Skrams. As long as you dont mind the long wait for shipping times there are better options that PE. But if you want it asap then PE is probably your best option.
    1 point
  10. added some info in the Luke's amplifier test thread
    1 point
  11. Thanks SME. I'm just editing a follow up to the previous video. This time I was able to run the cvr up to 48 volts driving 4x 21sw152 at a 2 ohm load. No appreciable difference between it and the k10. I have no illusions that the cvr can hang with the k10 all the way to max power, but it can drive 4 21's on a 2 ohm load to pretty fun levels very well. Ill post the vid when its ready
    1 point
  12. Report on the soft clip limiter: test set to 25W 4R (10V in theory), generator at 1kHz -Protect light starts flickering around 11V (30W) but it won't go any higher than that (long term) -attack time was ~5ms when overdriven by 10db followed by a gradual roll off to the target over 50ms -when overdriven by 20db it stays in hard clipping for 30ms then ramps down to the target in less than 1ms -even 20db hot the target is undistorted -10Hz sinve was butchered a bit but didn't look too bad -distortion just below limiter as expected (between 0.001 and 0.003% in my sweep) -3db into
    1 point
  13. Are you wanting BC drivers and where are you located at?
    1 point
  14. Moving up and down stairs to roundover, sand, fill any tear out, sand and paint was a bit of a chore, requiring assistance of a hand cart, ratchet straps and a strong volunteer. Also, the number of good weather days were limited, coupled with working away from home a lot meant that I could not spend as much time working on these as I would have liked at a time. Second one is partially assembled.
    1 point
  15. Before adding a subwoofer, if you add baffle size with foldable / detachable wings and top / bottom panels you will increase forward directivity which is useful. Of course, this comes with the caveat that it will make the monitors heavier, not to mention easier to tip over if the wind whips up. This moves the baffle step frequency lower, and may require a bit of tailoring with eq. Wings could be made from dollar store / craft store foam poster boards or 1" xps foam board, assuming you do some rudimentary bracing. Considering you are using a car for transport and are short on space a pair
    1 point
  16. I've noticed something very interesting I wouldn't have believed was true when experimenting with my Hypex amps yesterday. These amps needed to be "broken in" with a high level signal or they'll run at unusually high distortion. Sounds like snake oil to me, but heres what I've seen from the data: General info: -Sweep of the audio interface max 0.005% THD 100Hz-24khz (sweep went to 48khz) -THD somehow off rising to 1% at 20Hz (has been RMA'd once, guess it's still slightly damaged) -THD numbers in the following paragraph are mostly constant through the frequency range, so I'm picki
    1 point
  17. Hey @h3idrun looks like you got decent results. You could try power compression (see testing methods on this site) testing to see how close your actually getting to a 21" (Sweeps increasing in level until your getting 3dB compression). The umik-1 tops out around 120dB so if you will probably need to move it back a few meters to reduce the level. I like the idea of running the Prius as a generator. I have a 6 channel DSP amp box running off a 16S lithium battery I built for portable stuff.
    1 point
  18. Great pic of the sunset. Looks like a good time!
    1 point
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