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peniku8

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Everything posted by peniku8

  1. Don't think anyone here is planning to buy a 10-15k sub if he could DIY a blazing bass inferno for that money. I'm also pretty sure that M-Force is only sold to OEMs and installation companies, so if you want one you'd probably not be able to buy it directly.
  2. The 451 curve looks like a free air plot. Forgot to close the hatch? 😅
  3. peniku8

    Ascendo

    What exactly is this setup being used for? I see no center speaker, so it's not a dedicated HT setup, but I don't really see a point in running a 32" sub in a music setup when you already have two 21s. Might sound crazy, but since the space is so big a single sealed 32" might be on the weak side if you want solid sub 10Hz (which only makes sense imo if your wood flooring allows enough flex on the concrete for TR). Also, that space screams for acoustic treatment, but it looks quite new so I guess you're in the process of setting it up? What kind of room correction are you running and how are
  4. I've recieved an answer and they suspected this phenomenon was caused by bad contact of the speaker connector on the amp. I had the amps stored on a shelf in the warehouse for a few months, so it makes sense that there was some dirt build-up and corrosion-like effects (humidity never exceeds 60% there thou, so it's only minor), since the amps were unpacked. Running a higher current through the connector seems to literally clean it, which reduced the distortion. The more you know..!
  5. Small update on the Hypex amps: according to them all amps are tested at the factory and run through a burn-in period there. I suspect that this step was skipped because the amps were on back order already (I waited 2 months to get my amps in mid 2020 due to the pandemic), but of course this is nothing but a speculation from my side right now. I voiced the same thoughts to Hypex and waiting for their take on that. Will keep you posted
  6. That's correct, but they don't actually change by much, especially at only 50W per 3KW element (which is 100W into 8R=two elements in parallel). For 4R tests that's 4 elements in parallel already, so it's only about 30W per element on the FA123.
  7. I've reported my findings to the guys at Hypex and they're looking into it now, will keep you guys updated
  8. The good thing about testing low power amps is that I don't have to fill the loadbank up with water. Random facts: It would take about 10 minutes to heat up the water in the tank to unsafe levels (beyond 60°C) at 3650W, which is the maximum power I can draw from the 230V 16A wall socket. I'd need 500KW of power input to boil the entire body of water within a single 10 second test. A full 10 second test at 5KW would heat up the water from 23°C (room temperature) to about 24°C. Heating the water to 'lukewarm' would take about 5 minutes at full available 3,6KW power i
  9. I'll be posting some measurements of the Hypex FA123 soon. I'll also update my tests to streamline the process a bit. What frequencies would ppl be most interested in? I thought of doing 1k, 60Hz for bass performance and 20Hz for sub-bass performance. I don't wanna take too many measurements, since everything multiplies so a 4 channel amp into 3 different loads with 3 different frequencies already makes 3^3=27 tests (1ch 2ch 4ch; 1khz 60hz 20hz; 8R 4R 2R). I might as well drop the 1ch measurement for 4 channel amps as an edge case like that doesn't make much sense.
  10. I'd love to test this amp with my loadbank. I'd also love to test if it'll explode being driven at max after a while like my Sanway did.
  11. 20Hz tests with 3 +10db low shelves at 50Hz which means +30db at 20Hz: -23V unclipped baseline @ 0db reference -+10db no issues, just clipping -+20db no issues, just clipping -+25db amp shuts down after a few seconds, output muted SCL engaged at 125W4R: -22V unclipped baseline @ 0db reference -nothing changes except the clipping output signal turns into a "clean" signal Master input was at +4db on the amp and I raised that to +14 for signals over 20db into clipping because I ran out of output on my interface Overdrive tests: -SCL set to amp specs (125W@4R) -Clean at
  12. Report on the soft clip limiter: test set to 25W 4R (10V in theory), generator at 1kHz -Protect light starts flickering around 11V (30W) but it won't go any higher than that (long term) -attack time was ~5ms when overdriven by 10db followed by a gradual roll off to the target over 50ms -when overdriven by 20db it stays in hard clipping for 30ms then ramps down to the target in less than 1ms -even 20db hot the target is undistorted -10Hz sinve was butchered a bit but didn't look too bad -distortion just below limiter as expected (between 0.001 and 0.003% in my sweep) -3db into
  13. What firmware version did you experience these issues with? I'll try to replicate this today with my amps running 1.44 which I updated to yesterday. I didn't quite understand your remarks about the soft clip limiter; you say it doesn't work but then you say it reduced output power, isn't that exactly what it's supposed to do? It certainly worked when I tried it, but I haven't monitored the signal so I'm not sure if it was a gain reduction (soft limiting) or a peak reduction (hard limiting). I will run a signal to the amp and loop the output back into my interface to listen back to what it's do
  14. Mine power cycled when I tried to get it to output 20V into 4R at 10Hz (FA123). The FA123 I have consists of a NC122MP, NC100HF and MP-DSP Main plus MP-DSP Digin. You can see better measurements than I could ever take of the NC252MP amp here: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/buckeye-6-channel-amplifier-review.18579/ I think this one is very interesting and much cheaper than combining their other offerings: https://www.hypex.nl/product/ncas500mp/174 This plus the dsp board is way less than the full FA253 (almost half the price). Dunno if it's ava
  15. I've noticed something very interesting I wouldn't have believed was true when experimenting with my Hypex amps yesterday. These amps needed to be "broken in" with a high level signal or they'll run at unusually high distortion. Sounds like snake oil to me, but heres what I've seen from the data: General info: -Sweep of the audio interface max 0.005% THD 100Hz-24khz (sweep went to 48khz) -THD somehow off rising to 1% at 20Hz (has been RMA'd once, guess it's still slightly damaged) -THD numbers in the following paragraph are mostly constant through the frequency range, so I'm picki
  16. RCA, yikes. Graph's looking good! I'd suggest placing a Butterworth 4th order high pass at ~30-35Hz for driver protection and maybe taming that hump down there as well. From the looks of it, you're probably running an acoustic crossover of 120HZ or higher because of that hump at the top. You can use REW to EQ the graph (PEQ like 98Hz -10db Q4 or so), which will clean that up if you add that point to your dsp.
  17. Interesting product, haven't seen that yet. How low will it go? What kind of PEQ did you have on it? I have low passed my TR system at 25Hz because I only want shake, not vibration (which I already get from my sub, and to me, shake from those devices feels unnatural and also unnerving), so anything that won't deliver in the sub 15Hz region is not of interested for me currently. How have you mounted the device to the couch? Do you have the couch mechanically isolated from the ground to get enhanced tactile feedback?
  18. The resulting damping factor will absolutely kill your sound quality. In addition to that, the resistor would probably have to be water cooled, due to the high power dissipation.
  19. I've worked with the Doughty T55510 and it's good, but expensive. Maybe the cheaper Adam Hall SWU 400 T would fit your needs as well. You'd have to make a mounting plate with a 25mm Spigot where the speaker can rest on, but there are also VESA mounting plates with the same spigot, which might work in your case.
  20. I mean, theoretically the entire cab acts as passive radiator, which means it amplifies frequencies. It does that well once those frequencies excite a panel resonance, which will then likely result mostly in harmonic distortion. I 'd guess that this kind of distortion has its own complexities, since, for example, a 3rd order resonance at 333Hz will excite 1khz, which will have a complex directionality emanating from a speaker side wall the size of a few square feet, so it might actually be challenging capturing this behavior reliably with a single microphone, especially if the mic is on-axis,
  21. Pretty cool thread I haven't come across yet. It's filled with knowledge and information; I'll read through the entire thing at some point. If you don't want to do all the measurements manually, you can just buy this, you know: And it's only around 100 grand including some peripherals you'll also need, sounds like a no-brainer to me (sarcasm off: I want it so bad!). Sturdy construction is important for sure. I recently built a few speakers lining the inside with Dynamat-like mats, to minimize panel vibration and I think if you do that, it's better to actually have thin p
  22. I saw this in IG earlier, but I scrolled so fast I didn't realize it was a whole new design, I thought it was a slight redesign of the existing model. Stats are insane as "usual". Re of 0.26Ohm thou? Recommended to run two series drivers off a single X4L channel (which is running in bridged configuration)? BL²/Re is 1700, but the data sheet says 1600 and that T/S params are not fully accurate for the M-drive type transducers, if I understood that correctly, but holy cow. Has as much surface area as two 21" drivers. Does 5KW. I'm just not fully understanding the sensitivity ratings. E
  23. peniku8

    Ascendo

    Did you really just compare two overpriced 13" subs to a 32" sub? I thought about doing this a while back, but I decided to not go that route, as I could imagine that the resulting phase issues would be severe, thereby working against myself (lowering system sensitivity and efficiency). Probably takes a lot of testing/aligning to get right, just like using multiple subs with different tunings (although FIR filters could help you out in the latter scenario).
  24. Thank you, that was actually the fist time I've worked with Warnex (European equivalent of Duratex), but it worked very well. I used two 1KW stage lights to speed up the drying process, which shortened drying time to 15 minutes, which was a massive help. Gonna get some curing lamps for future projects.
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