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rolo95

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  1. https://reverb.com/item/81252450-admark-ad-442-high-power-class-d-4-channel-amplifier-w-gallium-nitride-tech
  2. wow! so nice!! can you share the details on amplification and processing ? that tuktuk is genious!
  3. ok, there are other drivers that maybe FIT on the SKRAM is the HR screen for the SKRAM available ? if not i guess we need to wait till Ricci chime in to see if they fit BEYMA 21LEX1600ND , RCF LF21X451 , LaVoce SAN215.30 , 18Sound 21LW1400
  4. JAMI, you rock !! thanks for sharing your CNC work with us! For convenience I packed al your CNC files on a rar archive (for the couch potatoes like me ) SKRAMCNC_JAMIPACK.rar
  5. Changing dimensions to an existing design is a big no, what you can do however is to build the cabinet as it is and add an extension reducer ring so you can mount your 18" driver in to the 21" baffle, that way later on you can swap the 18" for the correct driver. i wish Ricci published the HR screen of this design, that way you can sim different drivers in it. but i think there is no much leeway as this cabinet need a very strong motor driver with military specs cone so there are not many 21"s that fit the bill, and the ones that fit are already listed on post#1 My 2 cents.
  6. Hey since you mentioned Michael Curtis, i just watched his videos and I did the inline inverted cardioid setup and indeed! works like a charm !! i used only 2 subs but the rear rejection was unbelievable my settings was what he used 68Hz max summation freq, rear sub offset 4.15 ft (50" ) , rear sub delay 3.67ms since i have passive subs i used an old BSS delay processor i bought for peanuts like 4 years ago to delay my rear sub cause the drive rack cant delay the LOW out individually CH1 or CH2, it works like a charm !!! now i need more subs and more amps!! i want to build some SKRAMS!!!
  7. Can this design be split in to a half cabinet with 1 driver only for easier transportation ?
  8. rolo95

    Paraflex

    Why people start a thread and do not wrap up it..... Some replies and no feedback from the thread starter....wtf?
  9. Guys, so I'm going to invest in my starter set of tools ,what about the below router and bits 40 bucks off right now Does 1/4 HP will suffice? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-HP-Variable-Speed-Fixed-Corded-Router/999928320 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-8-in-Carbide-Tipped-Roundover-Router-Bit/1084963 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Straight-Router-Bit/1095801 do I need a table saw for the cuts? what other tools I need to start making my franken sub cabinets
  10. 1. the LaVoce is a perfectly adequate driver. If you're in the US, the Eminence driver will output like 2dB more. In Europe the price difference doesn't make any sense yes i am in the US, you mean the 1,200 USD eminence ? the 21ds115 are around 780 around here but the Lavoce is less than that. 2. a roundover bit i am new to woodworking, any links to that bit ? 3. I machine circles in the top of the cabinet where the (round) feet sink into what do you use to made those and how do you align them perfect 4. uh none; you can line the walls not near the port with foam if you like is there any before and after graphs of response , or somebody who heard the difference if any 5. you answered your own question lol, what i meant is a 4 channel amp driving 4 skrams with the 21ds115-4 , one cabinet per channel versus 2 channel amp driving 2 cabinets loaded with the 21ds115-8 per channel. 6. that's up to how good your woodworking skills are - I built an SKhorn without a cnc my skills are non existent, i want to learn and start making sawdust but i guess i need to start with simple boxes with scrap lumber, until i can do exact cuts i can start butching the expensive ply , what guides or tutorials you recommend to watch so i can start my woodbutcher journey.
  11. Guys, impressive work each and everyone who built the SKRAM i have a couple of questions 1.- How many dB get lost if i get the least expensive driver from the list , the Lavoce SAN214.50 or the RCF LF21N551 2.- what router bit is used to trim the 90 degree angles in the outside of the box where the outside panels meet to each other, so to look more pro factory made cabinet with chamfered/rounded edges 3.- do you guys use any method so to stack 2 or 3 cabinets and some feet or corner cover that fits in to each other cabinets so to "lock" and do not let the cabinet run or fall when stacked in top of the other. 4.- what area of the back driver chamber need to be filled with ikea pillow stuffing ? 5.- is best to use the 8 ohm or the 4 ohm version?, i plan to run 2 8ohm drivers in paralel for a 4 ohms load in to the amp channel, im not confident enough to run @ 2ohms load regardless 6.- do you need a CNC machine to cut the wood or you can make one with just a table saw.
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