Domme

It is a super tough build if you've never done something similar before. Was my first speaker project and I'm glad I got a little assistance from a friend who is a carpenter master, even though I did most of it myself after he told me what to do. Cutting huge plywood panels without a properly sized saw sucks. I am just building another pair of Skrams, this time alone and I also moved so I can't use the shop from my friend. This time the saw was too small though so I could not use the lateral fence. A real pain in the ass. Measure 10 times, cut once... next time I would probably just use a track saw with guiding rail instead. More work with measuring and drawing but probably a better quality after all. But there won't be a next time, 4 Skrams are enough for me to handle and transport :-O The frequency response should improve after some time. You can also break the driver in with a white noise signal at moderate volumes for some hours. Cheers, Domme

While I don't have a comparison I made everything in 18mm because 12mm wasn't available from my supplier at the time. Does it sound bad? No. Does it sound worse? Can't tell. I will do some measurements once I finish my second pair (also in full 18mm to match the existing ones).

I did those cuts with a jigsaw and manually routed the baffle (G) and the mouth braces (R) because they are visible in the finished construction. No CNC needed (although it would make things easier...) Does anybody have experience with amps for an NSW6021-6 in a Skram? Or 4 Skrams to be exact? As I said I have 2 Skrams now and a Powersoft K20 and want to build 2 more. In theory I could put another 4 on the K20 (2R then) but I feel like they could use more headroom and I would also lose control on 2 Skrams for array operation. An X8 could easily drive 4 with enough headroom, but I could not add more because of bridged operation (only 4R rated) and the quite unusual driver impedance (6R). An X4L on the other hand would enable me to add more later (up to 12) but I would get diminishing returns in the headroom department. It would not be a real headroom benefit compared to the K20 if I should ever operate 6 Skrams and even with 4 it's not a lot of headroom gain compared to the K20, especially considering the high price (I could possibly get around 2-3 additonal K20s for the price). So right now I feel like an X8 would be the only true upgrade headroom-wise, it would offer me delay control on each individual cabinet, but would also limit me to 4 Skrams in total (probably not to bad because my back already says no anyway). A tough and expensive decision no matter which will be the result... I think I will first build and try my K20 on 4 Skrams and decide then but a nice little discussion on the amping topic would have my interest for sure. Cheers, Domme

Hi Jjzamo, Acoustically it shouldn't matter. You sacrifice some stiffness because you have a little bit less material distant from the outer edge (area moment of inertia) but it really should be negligible. It would also make mounting the driver a bit easier. The corner holes are for weight saving. Cheers, Domme

Two weeks ago I hosted my second public soundsystem show along with a friend. The pair of Skrams I built (loaded with NSW6021-6s and powered by a K20) played super loud and clean. We received a lot of gratitude from the crowd and other local soundsystem crews praised the clean sound of the system. Unfortunately we had power issues (to be exact, there was no power at all coming from the designated socket... ouch!) and after we fixed it there was not much time to do a proper soundcheck but you could easily tell that most of the bass was coming from the Skrams, and we're not even talking about low-end performance. It was such a difference when I went to a quite popular local techno club last weekend. I could have cried about what is thrown at you after you have to pay 15€ entrance fee... I decided to upgrade to 4 Skrams this winter. That's all my van can handle and it will already be super cramped... my friend is selling his horns and wants to upgrade to Type O paraflex cabinets with 21" drivers. I tried to persuade him to bulid 4 Skrams instead but he prefers the more classic/roots look of the type Os. Anyway, once we are done building them I will drive on a field and compare them. Two cabinets, one measurement method.

It's no easy project at all. I have some woodworking experience, but not too much, and had some help from a friend master carpenter and it was still a PITA to get it all right. Without his help I probably would have messed up the glue step because you need to be quick! Those huge surfaces are not easy to move around once you apply glue and it's almost the last step and you can still mess everything up... you also need strong clamps and MANY of them. I would probably order all parts CNC'ed next time because even though it was worth for the experience and learning, when you count man hours it wasn't worth spending hundreds of hours just to save a bit of money. Anyway, good luck!

@jay michael Wicked rig! After a long winter break and moving to another city I finally finished my SKRAMs as well. Only two of them but super happy with them. Thanks for the design @Ricci Only thing that could have been better is my painting job. Gonna post some pictures later.

If you have a CNC at hand you can route some grooves which should help with assembling and gluing process. I did not have one so I used lamello joints for easier assembling and increased stability. This was my gluing order: 1. Baffle and horn 2. Base with ports 3. Braces 4. Outer sides It was a pain in the ass though. I am glad my friend -a master carpenter who owns the workshop- helped with the gluing and I never knew that you can get sore muscles in each and every finger. You are going to need a lot of large and strong vices, too! Gonna post some pictures later on how it went. From the fluid mechanics perspective i would say that you are moving large amounts of air back and forth repeatedly in different frequencies all at once. There will be turbulence all over the place no matter what you try. Even though I was also tempted to round of "F" I ultimately went with the original design (well almost...) Good luck!

Hey everybody, I am wondering if and how you seal the area between your cabinet and handles, cable terminals and so on to minimize air leaks. I was thinking about using some 1mm neoprene sheet and was wondering if someone here has got experience with it or what you are using instead. Cheers!

Will do. Got some tolerant neighbours and a wide field in front of the house, but unfortunately my mic is only built for 128dB. Should be enough for those civilized measurements, but I will try my best to make it suffer 😉 I love this truck! I had it as wallpaper and all of a sudden he's wearing a custome 🤣

Just unloaded the wood for my 2 SKRAMs, starting the build on Thursday... oh boy 😻 Unfortunately I don't have access to a CNC router so I have go with lamellos instead. When it's finished I will probably reinforce some critical edges with glass fiber fabric & epoxy resin. That has to do for now...

@rolo95 For the moving sub problem I would recommend those anti-vibration rubber mats that you can put under washing machines. Cheap and effective. You can even cut them into smaller pieces to save cost. A washing machine is a hell of an unbalanced beast and still I've never seen one move (significantly) even after years of operation. Those mats also equalize uneven floors up to a certain degree and protect your subs from scratching. Or the floor itself if you're ever playing on parquet.

Hey everybody, my system is growing slowly and steadily. Soon I'll be ready for summer! While getting used to the DSP software I was playing around with crossover setting. My cabinets are not finished yet but I was already wondering how everybody else feeds their Skrams? I will be using AE TD10Ms as mids with fs=40Hz so I should probably not go too low with them. How high/low are you cutting your Skrams off? Blessings, Domme

@Ricci I think the stacking problem of your initial post has not been solved yet and I was just searching for corner protection and stumbled upon those https://www.thomann.de/de/adam_hall_4071_cabinet_corner_plastic.htm Me and my slight OCD find them much more elegant than trying to make stacking edges because they look much less asymmetrical, but if you want to go for them it should work as long as two neighboring edges have negative patterns, even if you rotate them. Just take a look at this very professional diagram that I made to understand the principle of those corners because my brain somehow refuses to think in transformation matrices. I hope it will work without math but I hereby declare that I won't take any responsibility for resulting damages 😂

Thanks! He doesn't own a CNC router so we have to use lamellos instead or even do some manual routing of dado joints if unavoidable.