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Everything posted by klipsch

  1. From a build thread - that's what I did around the handle area - speaker gasket IIRC
  2. If/when BB comes down in price, I would like to help.
  3. Just this little thing https://data-bass.com/#/systems/5aa4a25261feb10004121e18?_k=qak9b2
  4. Nice post SME. Best wishes if you decide to go commercial. The need does exist. I looked at doing some quick and dirty C level functions, but didn't make it a priority with my free time. Instead, I ended up with a great deal on 2 used 10x10 minidsps for my single venue needs.
  5. I'd recommend the $30 JBL driver under your couch/sofa as another option worth perusing. Being across the pond, not sure if you have access to that driver and/or at that price, but many use them on avsforum. Think they call it BOSS setup or something similar. Edit: it is indeed boss - back open sub shaker on AVS
  6. Not sure if I understood correctly, but many will add 10db from the 16hz to 32hz range and then deploy an overall 10db gain cut. Expectations/theory being the 10db add in the low frequency range won't ask too much from the amplifier due to the global 10db gain cut. With many designs (sealed probably more so), the 10db add to the low range will result in a "flatter" response frequency VS SPL curve. Not sure how that works in practice VS theory as I've never tried it myself.
  7. I'll take my Mother's advice since I don't have much nice to say about one of the sub designs - if you are OK with building VS buying - I'd recommend the skram which has a smaller physical size.
  8. When the skrams and 8 HT18s were "dsp'd" for split duty, the skrams easily kept up. There is probably a significant amount of reasoning for that based on the power the drivers can handle/are being fed - 8 HT18s VS 2 Nsw6021s. All overlap at this point with the majority of the skrams and sealed pa460s duty being nearly identical around 30-100hz - HT18s are around 0-40hz. Been a long while since I've touched the DSP so can't remember the exact frequency bands or HP / LP filters used. I wanted to feel the music like I was there- even at lower volumes (~70 dB A weighted). For my room, more driver "cone area" was a way to get that. If I were to start from scratch, I would probably only do skrams and sealed pa460s only.
  9. I caution it as well, experiencing 2 skrams will make you want to have 4 :). But I'm a degenerate with 2 skrams, 8 sealed stereo integrity 18s and 8 sealed pa460 18s blended in one room.
  10. It sold. If looking for class D, the hypex nc400, nc500 (the amp module) and 502 hypex have a much better noise floor than the Pascal or ice modules in the d-sonic.
  11. Putty and paint, makes it what it ain't! Only downside I see is that you seem to only have 2
  12. Only thing bad about the NSW 21s are that I should have bought more when there was that great sale or I should have been 10 minutes faster to buy the one's Ricci had tested.
  13. Hi SME Have really enjoyed all the details /experience / knowledge you have and continue to share. Movie content can indeed flex things a bit. Seems that more recent movies have sound engineers that are already boosting the low end, so I typically do not run as hot there. A recent movie that I thought was mixed well in the recent past was Ford vs Ferrari. With RTA and music, I've always enjoyed the feel (literally) of live music. I run the bass hot in music to get that "feel" in my chest and such of the drums/bass while still saving my ears - still can hear up to 17.5khz in my 4th decade so hopefully it stays and what I've been doing in this hobby has been correct. For the RTA, it is typically fast and keeps the peaks held on screen in addition to the current live reads. The 100+ peaks are in the low end with 80dB peaks from mids to highs. Many music genres mid and high peaks are pretty constant with less lonely peaks or difference between averages and highs. Sorry for the confusion regarding "hits". When a kick drum or similar "hits" (depending on genre), the RTA will show the low end Hz "hit" and then drop for a count or similar before it "hits" again. Hope that makes sense
  14. 8 Stereo Integrity HT18s (2 aren't pictured as they are behind the first row of seats) get 4 channels from 2 cheap inuke 600s The 2 NSW21s in the 2 skrams and 8 PA460s (4 per box with a series parallel wiring between boxes) get 1 channel each of a sinbosen FP20000Q 230v (have an unused channel right now out of the 4 available) Headroom is pretty good. I'll run 75 to 80 db A weighted and hit 105 to 110 db C weighted for music at the main listening position with an RTA running.
  15. I just finished two boxes for a similar configuration. Each box has 4 8ohm 18" drivers. I wired the boxes to be series parellel (4ohm total load). Haven't had any issues.
  16. Finally got everything up and running. 8 pa460s (2 boxes - each has 4 pa460 in a 2x2 dual opposed sealed box). 6 HT18s sealed up front from 0-60hz. 8 PA460s sealed from 10 to 110hz 2 Nsw6021 skrams 31 to 110hz Bass uniformity across all 7 seats improved a bit. If I were starting from scratch, I'd do 16 pa460s sealed and 4 Nsw6021 skrams. Crazy how these pa460s can only be 70ish bucks shipped with bulk pricing and 15% coupon discount. Integration all done via a 10x10 minidsp.
  17. Good luck with the amplifier build. I too will have 502s (6 channel amp - 3 modules). Will be using them alongside the nc500s for the surrounds. These modules continue to provide clean power with efficiency.
  18. Guess it should also be noted that here in the States, birch plywood is typically more expensive than Baltic birch plywood (region and species differences similar to the differences between pine VS southern yellow pine). If in the Midwest States or you don't have access to Baltic birch in your local area - Baird brothers has good stuff. I'm in the Northeast States and with an order of 10+ sheets, Baird Baltic birch BB plywood delivered to my shop was cheaper with better selection. https://www.bairdbrothers.com/mobile/Hardwood-Plywood-C966.aspx
  19. Is that $130 for AA or BB or other quality? Cabinet grade Baltic birch is around $120s to 150s depending on thickness
  20. Baltic Birch 13ply BB/BB from local lumber yards are a few bucks more than maple, oak, and Southern pine 7 ply and MDF at the box stores in most the USA. ($60ish) If painting, the BB/BB is a no brainer in my opinion. If staining, the BB/BB can work as well if you are able to be selective or properly position your cuts around the patches. The AA/XX variety is usually about 100 bucks.
  21. Been really busy... Have one box glued and sanded. Need to get 2nd box going. Hopefully I can get some time soon
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