klipsch

Hi SME Have really enjoyed all the details /experience / knowledge you have and continue to share. Movie content can indeed flex things a bit. Seems that more recent movies have sound engineers that are already boosting the low end, so I typically do not run as hot there. A recent movie that I thought was mixed well in the recent past was Ford vs Ferrari. With RTA and music, I've always enjoyed the feel (literally) of live music. I run the bass hot in music to get that "feel" in my chest and such of the drums/bass while still saving my ears - still can hear up to 17.5khz in my 4th decade so hopefully it stays and what I've been doing in this hobby has been correct. For the RTA, it is typically fast and keeps the peaks held on screen in addition to the current live reads. The 100+ peaks are in the low end with 80dB peaks from mids to highs. Many music genres mid and high peaks are pretty constant with less lonely peaks or difference between averages and highs. Sorry for the confusion regarding "hits". When a kick drum or similar "hits" (depending on genre), the RTA will show the low end Hz "hit" and then drop for a count or similar before it "hits" again. Hope that makes sense

8 Stereo Integrity HT18s (2 aren't pictured as they are behind the first row of seats) get 4 channels from 2 cheap inuke 600s The 2 NSW21s in the 2 skrams and 8 PA460s (4 per box with a series parallel wiring between boxes) get 1 channel each of a sinbosen FP20000Q 230v (have an unused channel right now out of the 4 available) Headroom is pretty good. I'll run 75 to 80 db A weighted and hit 105 to 110 db C weighted for music at the main listening position with an RTA running.

I just finished two boxes for a similar configuration. Each box has 4 8ohm 18" drivers. I wired the boxes to be series parellel (4ohm total load). Haven't had any issues.

Finally got everything up and running. 8 pa460s (2 boxes - each has 4 pa460 in a 2x2 dual opposed sealed box). 6 HT18s sealed up front from 0-60hz. 8 PA460s sealed from 10 to 110hz 2 Nsw6021 skrams 31 to 110hz Bass uniformity across all 7 seats improved a bit. If I were starting from scratch, I'd do 16 pa460s sealed and 4 Nsw6021 skrams. Crazy how these pa460s can only be 70ish bucks shipped with bulk pricing and 15% coupon discount. Integration all done via a 10x10 minidsp.

Good luck with the amplifier build. I too will have 502s (6 channel amp - 3 modules). Will be using them alongside the nc500s for the surrounds. These modules continue to provide clean power with efficiency.

Guess it should also be noted that here in the States, birch plywood is typically more expensive than Baltic birch plywood (region and species differences similar to the differences between pine VS southern yellow pine). If in the Midwest States or you don't have access to Baltic birch in your local area - Baird brothers has good stuff. I'm in the Northeast States and with an order of 10+ sheets, Baird Baltic birch BB plywood delivered to my shop was cheaper with better selection. https://www.bairdbrothers.com/mobile/Hardwood-Plywood-C966.aspx

Is that $130 for AA or BB or other quality? Cabinet grade Baltic birch is around $120s to 150s depending on thickness

Baltic Birch 13ply BB/BB from local lumber yards are a few bucks more than maple, oak, and Southern pine 7 ply and MDF at the box stores in most the USA. ($60ish) If painting, the BB/BB is a no brainer in my opinion. If staining, the BB/BB can work as well if you are able to be selective or properly position your cuts around the patches. The AA/XX variety is usually about 100 bucks.

Been really busy... Have one box glued and sanded. Need to get 2nd box going. Hopefully I can get some time soon

Interesting. I do not have FA503s. I have the nc500s https://www.hypex.nl/product/nc500-oem/50. I have also had the nc400s (borrowed). There is zero audible hiss with any signal. I am interested in the newer 502 https://www.hypex.nl/product/nc502mp-oem/77 or 252 for other channel duty. Potentially similar high SINAD and clean power. The nc400s were the same as the nc500 (no audible hiss) and clean power. The Pascal L pro modules had audible hiss that annoyed me during quiet movie passages, soft jazz music, and other genres with similar sonic qualities. The X Pro and M pro were slightly better, but I ultimately sold my D-sonic amplifier that used the X pro modules. For inefficient speakers, the X pros may be a good fit.

Interesting RE hypex. I use 3 of the nc500 amp modules to drive my 3 danley SH50s. One of the few amps where I can stick my head inside the horn and it is dead silent. Literally zero audible "hiss" in a ~34 dB noisefloor room inches from the compression driver. Other class D, like Pascal and ice modules, the "hiss" would be audible from 13 feet away. (e. g. from D-sonic amplifiers I've tried). I am interested in the newer self contained hypex modules to see/hear how they compare (e. g. Compare the original 500NC VS the 500mp or 502mp)

Thank you for sharing. Hadn't heard of this brand before. Any thoughts on sinbosen compared to these CVR (if you happen to have experience with sinbosen)?

Haha If I had the space!

Your good reviews sold me. I couldn't resist an opportunity to get 8 pa460s for $565. Currently thinking of doing 2 dual opposed seales cabinets with 4 pa460 each. Then wire both cabinets and all 8 drivers together for a single 4 ohm load.

I have had 2 of these for about 8 years now. I drive them with a used emotiva small 2 channel amp. The cabinets are not small in height or depth, but the width is very manageable. They produce excellent quality bass at SPL levels that are more than enough for the 13'x15'x9' small office they are in.

Combining bass and subbass has provoked many interesting debates (at least I think so with the ones I have read over the years). If I summarize properly, there seems to be a general pattern. It seems that first a distinction between vibrations and spl is characterized and challenged to distinguish properties of bass and subbass. Much of this depends on the listening environment (e. g. The room) and the person (e. g. Different body types with different resonances). Afterwards of that dialogue, different theories and experiences of impulse waves VS sine waves are exchanged. Many state that large motor, heavey surrounds, long travel are excellent for producing subbass - usually sinewaves. To produce impulse waves, many state the opposite of the above - lightweight, stiffer surrounds, less travel, etc.. Having a driver produce both very well is an interesting conversation that has been dominated by money and physical space available. Producing both simultaneously can be a difficult/impossible task depending on the drivers and cabinet designs. My own personal thoughts - having had the luxury of experiencing many different home theaters which have had various designs with minimums of 8 18" drivers in the room - I have found that with the space and power, I do prefer large amounts of impulse based driver systems/configurations that supposedly do better with bass VS subbass. With enough of the impulse based drivers, the subbass reproduction reaches needed spl levels I preder while delivering the bass and midbass I enjoy - all "cleanly" . With systems that had high excursion drivers that theoretically excelled at sinewaves, the sound of bass and midbass just wasn't my preference. However, without enough of the defined "impulse style" drivers, the subbass lacked in creating the vibs and sensations I also enjoy. So, like most things in life - your mileage may vary - there are many variables and options. Hopefully we all can chase what we enjoy and then figure out how to stay happy once the chase is over

https://www.aia-cinema.com/active-speakers/smsg50.html At the bottom, it says all speakers come with a grill. I want to see the grill for the smsg50

Thoroughly appreciate everything up to this point!

Nice texture on that finish!

4 feet long tube port? 10" diameter? I'd like to see a drawing of that! The cab can double as a tunnel for a toddler or cat.

Great work. Thanks for coordinating. What type of enclosures are you all thinking?

Guess this driver is way better than the 21" IPAL stereo integrity monster considering the price.

So the measurements were on axis and off axis in open air / outside with no boundaries? Or the measurements were on axis and off axis in a room / house / space with boundaries?

😔

There are 6 18s in that picture (2 more 18s in the room not pictured). In that picture, two D.O. sealed on top of the skrams and 1 D.O. sealed under the center channel facing sideways. Another dual front firing config behind 1st row. I thought the details were in this thread right around the previous shared link. I've configed as best as possible the method of placement I cannot currently find. It involves placing the subs at each of the 1/3 height and width points (along with their intersections) in the front and back of the room.