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Tahoejmfc last won the day on November 17 2021

Tahoejmfc had the most liked content!

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  1. I love how many people have built these subs! Also, I just love these subs as well. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CalY8Y1Bi6D/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
  2. I am in North Lake Tahoe, Truck is stored and worked on in Truckee. We rollout to the Black Rock Desert or a couple spots in the woods. You are in Canada? Would love to combine forces!
  3. Unfortunately this project has fallen through. Powersoft just had to up the price of the M-drive and Amp, They also want my 11,500$ now and delivery will be in June, Maybe. I said I cannot give you that much money and then wait that long. They just said well in June, if you try to buy then, the wait could be even longer. So I bought 3 X 10 Watt Pangolin Unity RGB lasers instead with the money. I will plan on chasing after this maybe next summer and try again. I put together all the cut files for the cnc, have the plywood and am ready to cnc cut when they do get back in stock with out the long lead time. The plans I have ready are for the EDM sub design if anyone wants the converted to proper scale illustrator files. Emmersive Audio in Venture was helping me with this being that they are the Powersoft west coast reps. Brion is really great with my questions and owns a set of the 1st version of these drivers with Danley tops. I want these drivers on the art car alongside the SKRAMS, so this will be happening in the future. Here is the project that got me interested in these drivers, it was for a Roots Society project, built by Robert Lee of Bass Boss. 8 M-Drive 30" Drivers https://www.instagram.com/p/BKYtbHjj5LL/?utm_medium=copy_link https://www.instagram.com/p/BKBJI8-j1_-/?utm_medium=copy_link This only partly worked, the sherpa bought the wrong plywood for the horn and the bass would bust right through the osb when turned way up. INTENSE even not fully turned up. as you can see the boxes holding the subs were built with the proper birch. I want to add the photo but Im capped at 33kB for pics
  4. Being a dual SKRAM owner and using the B&C 21SW152 for the last 1.5 years in this setup, I agree with Jay's description of how they sound. They are simply too brutish and over excited the room even at lower volumes. - This is in my 2 car garage/workshop. They are War Machines, these things kick ass and people take notice immediately. When paired with the right tops, like the Danleys or Meyers in my case, you're going to rock the house. If I was to build a system for in my house, I'd go with the BC 18SW152 in a dual setup or something much much lighter. The 21's are just too much and there sound doesn't really fit properly in a small space. (Coming from a Strictly Bass Head Opinion and not a home theater guy opinion...yet) Tops usually are not pointed so far down, was in backyard
  5. Hi Everyone, I am looking into building the EDM version of the design that Powersoft has released for my art car. I currently have 2 SKRAMS with B&C 21SW152's on a QSC PL380 amp with 2 Meyer Sound UPJ Tops. The SKRAMS are amazing!!!! Thank you Josh! Instagram @jackalotus I have downloaded the plans from Powersoft and am working them through illustrator. I have spoken with the west coast Powersoft reps at Emmersive Production Services in Ventura CA who are Very Helpful. He has 2 of the 1st version M-Force Drivers he is using and loves them. I was originally introduced to the M-Force at Burning man by David Lee at Bass Boss. He had 4 of these drivers set up on a walk in horn design subwoofer running just under 60,000 watts of total power. You can see Emmersives subs on their instagram @emmersiveproduction Current Cost of 18mm Baltic Birch in Reno is 158$ for a 4x8 piece and 105$ for a 5x5 piece. The Design takes 4 sheets of 4x8 18mm Baltic birch. The CNC routing is a bit more complex, multiple pieces need to have grooves on both side of the plywood which will take some time to do properly.
  6. I have 2 SKRAMS, both with B&C 21SW152 4ohm. And Yes, Crispy ass coils, wow did it ever fry those wires. i did learn while rebuilding, that their is alot of space inside the space the coil moves within. The backside of the 21SW152 has multiple holes that vent heat and the space is about 5-8mm wide.
  7. https://www.instagram.com/jackalotus/ you can see the driver being taken apart as well as the Playa deployment in my feed and my story and story archive for BC speakers has more
  8. Well, I finally blew a B&C Speakers 21SW152- 4ohm in a SKRAM running a QSC - PL380. Burnt the coil up real good. In my rush to get the system running on the Playa I accidentally hit the clip limit switch OFF on the PL-380. I currently am working on a RECONE and am having trouble deciding on the glue to use. Regarding the SKRAM design after using them now for 6 months. OUTSTANDING!!!! With a quality driver like the B&C 21SW152 the Bass is as others put it, LUXURIOUS! Paired with Meyers Sound Tops, incredible!
  9. I understand wanting to go smaller on the box design. But after the last 3 weekends using the SKRAM with a B&C 21SW152 4ohm and a QSC PL380, I'm convinced that lugging around the box is well worth the output the original SKRAM design puts out. It is heavy yes... it take 2 people to load it onto a snowmobile deck on my truck, yes.... it takes up alot of space in my garage for storage, yes.... but when you crank it up with some Meyer Sound UPJ's, its worth the tried and tested design that Ricci put a ton of time into designing. If you have a alot of free time on a CNC router and free time in your shop building this and want to experiment then this is why I love this conversation. Can't wait to see your results. My experience with the original design is pretty ear blowing for bass music as well as for all around boring club music.. which I will never let happen again on my system after the shit that was played on it last weekend out of my control.... Ricci, the forum is still limiting me to 0.41 megs of image upload. would love to share photos, but the forum won't let me
  10. Yes, If you are coming from a 50 amp circuit, you should be adding a 30 amp circuit breaker where you change your plug type/voltage/amperage Yes 8awg is overkill, as that is what I had handy in the shop that day. When I make up my proper subwoofer extension cords from the amp to the driver, I will be using 11awg or 12awg class 2 wire to connect to my neutrik connectors. 63amp? must be some European standard, odd number. Powerlock/camlock is what comes off of large generators and goes to a break out box We don't link ground to neutral, it is done for you in the main panel/breaker box at the service drop in your house. You always run them separate, but Klipsch is correct, they are one and the same and are joined at the root house panel on the same bus bar. Yes it is weird.. basically you have 2 grounds in your wiring here in North America. Below explains it further. "Having a ground wire that connects to neutral back at the breaker box provides an alternative path for the electricity to flow. The neutral wire provides the primary return path for current from the live wire, the neutral wire its self is a ground wire designated to carry current.Why are we connecting a neutral and a ground together? - Quora" "At the main service entrance the neutral wire is bonded to ground. The neutral wire from the utility is also grounded at the pole and other locations (e.g. the neighbors service). The earth actually does become a parallel path for current, however the impedance (resistance) is so great compared to the neutral circuit wire, that very little current actually flows through the ground. Whenever you have an auxiliary panel the neutral and ground should not be tied together because the ground wire becomes a parallel path for current with the neutral wire (any current going through the neutral wire will be shared with the ground wire because they have the same connections at both ends). The current traveling through the ground wire causes a voltage drop (any time current travels through a piece of wire there is some resistance - current x resistance = voltage). This can cause a small voltage on the resulting ground circuit. As far as I know the only risk is the possibility of nuisance electrical shocks and/or radio interference due to the voltage drop from the current passing through the ground wire (which is a parallel circuit with the neutral wire)." Very confusing. It took me a long time to really understand what was going on.
  11. Currently I'm using 8 AWG class 2 for my short run of speaker cable from the amp. It is what i had in my shop for welding and I still need to do some cnc routing to mount the nuetrik connector flush to the back of the sub.. Google Images wire gauge charts to get the proper wire size according to the amperage of the circuit required. Wire size gets smaller with a larger number. Referring to the 120V 30 amp circuit feeding the amp... I used 10 AWG for a 7' run from my main panel 30 amp D-Square fuse to the L5-30 (120V 30A) Connection for the amp(Amazon has these connectors for cheap). It seems like here in the US, most amps run off of the 30 amp 120V L5-30 connection (correct me if I'm wrong please) A friend's theater has the same connection for when they host Tahoe Wormhole (Bass Heavy Whomp Whomp) with a PK system and it crushes using just that one connection for 6 double 18 subs. The remaining highs/mids of the system are powered by 4 different 120V 15 amp Edison plugs. I know you can get all sorts of adapters from a 240V 30 or 50amp welding connection on Amazon.. to convert down to a 30 am 120V by just grabbing one of the white, green and black leads. The white(neutral) and green(ground) are actually bonded together at the panel.. so you technically have 2 grounds and one hot (black) connection at the circuit breaker making 120V at the rated amperage of the circuit breaker that the black is connected to.
  12. I ended up getting a QSC PL380 from a Guitar Center employee willing to shave 20% off the price, so it arrived yesterday for about 2047$ shipped brand new. I have only turned up the amp to about a 3 out of 10 so far. The sub is in my workspace in the garage paired with Meyer UPJ-1p tops and a Dbx PA2 DSP. My partner says that the windows upstairs were rattling so hard she thought they could break.. She is a bit of a pussy foot when it comes to her experience with Bass. Me on the other hand can't wait to turn these SKRAM's up to 11. Currently the ports barely show much air movement... but the way the bass hits, it is so thick, deep and powerful. The box I built really is a solid cabinet that should see years and years of use after the local temps come up enough put a good thick coating of Duratex on it. I ended up pulling new circuits off of the main breaker panel for a L5-30 30amp 120V connection for the amp and another 15amp connection for the tops. Previously the Sub amp was connected to only a 15 amp circuit and I could tell it was somehow limiting the real output of the amp when turned up. ( I might be wrong here but I swear the subs drive better when the PL380 has a 30amp circuit dedicated to it.) Next step will be to get the Sub and tops to the local movie theater in Tahoe City a friend owns and set up there to do real full volume tests of the output
  13. Well i got scammed pretty hard on the K10 amp. Sold to me as a lightly used amp with very low hours.... I pulled the amp out of the box and within 2 seconds knew the guy that sold me the amp was full of sh....... in his lightly used statement. It looked like it had been on tour for 10 years, never once cleaned and covered in RUST, GRIME and had a bent case as well. The dust screen was full of grime and had never been cleaned. I didn't even want to have a look at the circuit board as I knew from my electronics experience that it was going to look like a crusty 5 day old dead hooker on the side of route 66. Any thoughts on the QSC PL 380 for driving a B&C 21SW152 4 ohm? or recommendations for another amp choice in the under 3000$ range?
  14. What kind of gasket tape? Yah, Gorilla glue, Im not a wood worker, but more of a mechanical engineer so I don't really know what is the correct method for assembling wood, it was a learning experience.... - sent from my vibrating keyboard with occasional shit falling off the walls of my garage
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