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Everything posted by Ricci

  1. Probably...Either way the rear wave of the driver is exiting back in front of the driver and the driver is offset back into the enclosure a bit which is TH like. Somewhere between a TH and Tline seems to fit. That is a huge driver and a really big enclosure. Should make some noise.
  2. I could be wrong but to me the response looks TH like after a liberal dose of DSP. There's a notch and a small peak in the 65-80Hz area. A tuning at 20Hz or just above would likely put the "spike" in the 70Hz range. The M-force drivers don't model normal either due to the motor force.
  3. I think it's actually a TH variant. It is hard to tell for sure from the angle of the image but it looks like the driver fires into a throat where the motor is this then splits to the left and right and travels up, down, forward back up and then out from the top of the other side of the driver. I think! It's really hard to tell for sure from the pic. Anyway I'm going with a TH.
  4. I've got a bunch of cab "ideas" but nothing that small. Lacking the initiative to finalize on anything lately.
  5. Welcome to the forum. Impressive work! Thanks for the kind words. I'll check out your links when I get time. Looks like a cool project. I don't have any V-carve files. I don't own a CNC myself. All I can help you with is Solidworks files or other 3d cad file formats if that helps. Maybe one of the other guys will be able to provide some.
  6. Ha! Doesn't bother me in the least but it has been quite the discussion.
  7. I've always used the roller grade Duratex. People used to suggest thinning it out for spraying but I believe that was before they released their own spray version. If the cabs are going to see real "road" use I'd do at least 3 coats with a sprayer. If rolling it the amount of texture in the finish will vary depending on the roller used. A heavier texture with thicker application might be preferred for toughness. YMMV. Either way the stuff is easy to use and clean up isn't too bad. The odor isn't too bad either. Make sure it's at least 55deg or higher when you apply it. It doesn't like co
  8. Looks good! A pair of these should on that amp should be really hefty under 30Hz.
  9. Excellent posts about general CNC use and settings guys!
  10. Looks great. Yes I would use some lining in the vented section of the cab. Do not use any in the front section. Just make sure to clear the vents well. Happy holidays.
  11. Hello Sakkara...Welcome. In my opinion total speaker size/number of cabinets is most important especially in the bass region. Driver quality and synergy with the cabinets is second. Amplifier quality is 3rd. How many cabs to use depends on the room, application and how loud the average playback level is. For any type of live, DJ, dance club type of situation I'd recommend at least 2 Skhorn's or 4 Skram's or Othorn's as a starting point. Double that amount to really get the place rocking.
  12. 9601's are sold...Thanks Paul.
  13. So far the pro sound MFG's haven't been beating down my door to have >$10K flagship subs tested!
  14. I need to hear one of these M-force systems at some point!
  15. I've never tripped a breaker with a K20 or the K10's . I have only used them on 240v with 30A breaker though. Same with the SP2-12000's. That's the AC I have at home, at the rehearsal space and for the outdoor GP testing. I've only hooked a K20 to 120v one time to check dsp settings. Breakers will pass significant current beyond their rating for a few seconds so it takes a ton of long term power to trip a 30A 240v line. Even the SP2-12000 dumped into 2 ohms per channel at clipping with a long sine sweep didn't do it. Perhaps a few sweeps back to back would've done it eventually. Over her
  16. I've heard of them but never seen one over here in the states. They seem to have a pretty good reputation among the live sound guys. Not sure these would drive 8 ipals that well. The specs list a couple of things that stand out. 1.6 ohm 10kw rating per channel has a note about calculated as 2ohm + 20%? I didn't see mention of if the power ratings are with all channels driven or not or the duration or signal type. The big spec that jumped out at me is the long term power limit is 16A, so I don't expect it will do very well in a sustained power test. The K20 and K10 allow for settings of up to 3
  17. Yes they should work great in the Skram's. A pair will be just what the doctor ordered for outdoor parties.
  18. I still have those available.
  19. It is not. It sold a few weeks back.
  20. 3mm or so undersized should work. Depends on how many coats of Duratex though. If coating both surfaces multiple times you may need a bit more.
  21. Do you have any pictures? Would you consider selling without the driver?
  22. It depends. The K20 will run stereo at 2 ohms, but it will limit long bass notes into low impedances considerably. Buss pumping can be a problem. The exact impedance and phase of the load and the bass content used will determine how well it does. I really recommend bridging the K20 or K10. They perform better with heavy duty signals into low impedances when fully bridged.
  23. Awesome. I wish you were closer to me so I could come to one of your events and get a listen of the Skram + SH46 combo.
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