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Everything posted by Ricci

  1. Hello... I would start by defining a few things that will help others give you advice. Budget? Room size shape? Maximum size / dimensions available for the subs? Multiple locations available for the sub? How loud do you plan to listen? Rock concert levels or more modest typical home playback levels? What experience do you have with powerful bass systems? What is your reference for the sound you want?
  2. Sounds good Phil. Feel free to post measurements or listening impressions of your sub.
  3. Chiko, I'd suggest putting some damping in there behind the drivers. It should clean up the top end a bit and "tighten" the sound.
  4. Very cool. I'm sure that TH will move some air. What's the low corner on it?
  5. Jordy, The 21Ipal is good as well but if you ever want to run a single cab it will be hard to find an amplifier that likes the 1ohm load. If you have a good price on 4 and the impedance will work for you go ahead. The semi inductance for some of the drivers that you listed are shown on the driver testing page on the main DB website. Yes that HR input is the current "best" match at least until I can get a cab tested.
  6. Sure. All of the files are available in the first couple of posts. Welcome to the forum. 🙂
  7. My recommended driver for these is the Eminence NSW6021-6.
  8. Looks like great work Hunsbedt! Good job.
  9. Either of those woofers are excellent. The NSW is a lot cheaper here and the impedance is much easier to match amps to with a single or dual drivers. Performance wise the 21Ipal is a bit more efficient and may have a very small edge in power handling because of it but it's probably not enough to be audible. Both are absolutely top tier drivers. I own both. Either company is large enough and well established that any sort of mfg defects will be taken care of. There have been some reported issues with both drivers. It happens.
  10. I've run plenty of series or series parallel cabs too. Keep the cables as short as possible and use a heavy gauge. Keep the drivers the same model and loading. It'll be fine. There are untold amounts of cabs wired or run in series everyday. Three 4 ohm 21sw152's in parallel is probably going to be a min impedance of about 1.2 or 1.3 ohms. The SP amps will "do" it. Might be a smidge low for them but they've run 2 21 Ipal's in series. which is roughly 1.4 or 1.5 ohm.
  11. Hello Cam, To add a bit more to Kyle's post, group delay is WAY over rated when it comes to subwoofers. Lower is better make no mistake but the perception of it at low frequencies has not been shown to be very audible unless it gets very bad. Studies have shown that as frequency decreases we are more tolerant of large GD and it is much more difficult to distinguish. Personally I don't worry about it below 30Hz. 20ms at 50Hz is probably not worth worrying about. 20ms at 200Hz on the other hand should be quite audible. This is why group delay is often represented as a percentage of a cycle
  12. Hell yeah Jay. Looks awesome. Probably sounds alright too. 😏
  13. That's certainly plenty of headroom. What is your amplification for the different subs?
  14. Excellent. Please post some pictures after paint. I'd recommend some foam lining placed strategically in the back chambers to knock down HF garbage.
  15. FYI Maglito...Frame OD on this is 21". It'll be tough getting it into 22.5" height with feet. Not impossible though. I believe my home cabs are about 22.5 x 22.5 on the driver baffle but they do not have feet. The driver was tested in about 4.5ft sealed after driver displacement and bracing. Test cab was 23x23x20". At home I have them sealed in roughly the same amount of volume per driver. They work great. Bring the EQ and the POWER. Adjust to taste. One thing to be aware of is with a moving assembly that weighs 1Kg these can shake the hell out of a small enclosure at war volu
  16. Bravo! Very well executed.
  17. BB holds screws better as well. In general I avoid MDF or HDF when possible, especially on larger cab sizes. For things like small monitors and car subs it isn't a bad choice to save some money.
  18. I have never heard of them. A few internet searches may be in order.
  19. Hello Abraham...It depends. The usage and material being put through the subs make a big difference. If we consider that the B&C rating is 1700w continuous and the min impedance will be somewhere around 5.5 to 6 ohm in a cabinet, it seems like a starting point of about 100v would be suitable. This may need to be adjusted up or down depending on the specific use case, but this seems a reasonable starting point. I'd advise watching the video from Bennett posted above. As previously mentioned a strict peak voltage limiter isn't the best for this type of job.
  20. With four 4" fullrange drivers covering most of the frequency range how are you planning to deal with comb-filtering, HF beaming, off-axis power response, etc?
  21. Pretty much all ports can be made to chuff and compress. Yours seems to have generous flaring which would help. The amount of bends may cause a lot of turbulence and the length looks really long, so watch the pipe resonance. Also the tuning would be difficult to judge with the end terminations and so many 180deg turns. This almost seems like it could be made into a TL variant. If it were me I'd probably move the vent to the bottom somewhere to prevent the possibility of something falling in. I'd try to minimize the bends in the vent as well. Just somethings to consider. Nice renders
  22. It's complicated to answer. It really never is as simple as labeling something 500 watts. Audio signals vary constantly. The speaker impedance and diaphragm excursion vary with frequency. Voltage and current vary into the impedance of the speaker. The key consideration is usually duration of the signal as far as burning coils goes. The other is the peak signal possibly causing mechanical damage to a driver. Most speakers will handle extremely high power inputs at certain frequencies if the duration is very short. At other worst case frequencies they may be cooked with far less power than the
  23. Sure it does, you just need a few hundred cubic feet of volume for the sub cabinets!
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