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Everything posted by Ricci

  1. The JBL, Martin Audio, or Harman Curve may not be a bad place to start. These are all similar in general trend to the L-Acoustics graph already posted. Some are more aggressive than others. I usually end up settling somewhere similar in shape with my systems. Gentle rise from the HF towards the midbass that continues on into the bass range.
  2. Awesome! Already ahead of the game. Is that your shop? I'm jealous of the tools and space. I have nothing like that.
  3. It may be relatively flat down to 5Hz. Can't say for sure without measurements. Curious that the spec is 30-20kHz though. If it was 20-20kHz I wouldn't question it, but 30Hz is a bit odd for an electronic component, which is why it stuck out to me. I wonder if it changes with input pad? I avoid cal files as much as possible for a measurement rig. Especially if big corrections are needed. They are a necessary evil sometimes though. Good luck. Post a frequency response if you get a chance to take one.
  4. Hmmm. Interesting. Frequency response spec looks not so great though.
  5. Correct the SP amps are already full bridge. So are Inuke6000 and NX6000 amps which is why they can't be bridged again. Most amps are half bridged. Half bridged Class D SMPS amps can get some bus pumping going on when used with HEAVY bass content. Not talking rock n roll kick drum here...Think sine wave sweeps, possibly some ULF HT type stuff. I like to use full bridged operation into subs when possible. In reality with normal content it may never be an issue. Voltage limit on the SP amps is about 126 volts (178 volts peak)
  6. I just skimmed this thread trying to catch up on everything I've missed in the last couple weeks, but I have to echo Peniku8 for the most part. I finally finished and posted my "small" 21" design earlier today. It is still significantly bigger than the dimensions you have proposed. Have a look at how the front section was done. I don't think you can shrink it any smaller than that without major performance impacts. The simple slot that was posted above by Peniku8 is the other option for keeping it as small as possible but has some limitations also. The back chamber and ports I could shrin
  7. Hey man. Nice looking build. I'm way behind and catching up around here. I like the method of shaping the ports and combating turbulence. The very first thing that I see though is wasted volume inside of the "toilet seat" (LOL...Can't unsee that now!). That volume could be used for the chamber or even the ports. You could knock a big hole or 2 through the bottom panel of the chamber into the toilet bowl area and get that volume back for the main chamber. Every little bit helps. Doesn't have to be pretty. No one will ever see that.
  8. Great work! Looks like you are putting together a quality first build. My first couple builds way back did not look this good.
  9. Hey Jay. I really think it depends on your preferences, the environment and the content. What sounds good with rock or country outdoors might not sound so great with EDM in a small venue. I'd recommend to start with something relatively flat from 30-100Hz to start and flavor it to your preference over time. If you keep track of it well you may even end up with different presets depending on the musical style or the size of the venue / outdoors.
  10. Design Notes/Goals: I started on the CKRAM long ago and got about 85% done before hitting a crossroads of analysis paralysis. I left the project in the dust and got busy with other things for a long time. After I picked it back up towards the end of last year I made some progress towards getting it finalized but was still not sure about the choices I'd made. I left it alone again for a few months before pulling it back up last week. At that point I looked at it with a fresh perspective and changed the final design to what has been posted here. The original goals for this stem back to
  11. Here are the print files. As usual 18mm and 12mm, void free BB ply is recommended. Can be built with or without CNC. CNC programming will have to be developed on a case by case basis for your shop/machines/software. Modify as needed for your situation. The basic dimensions and overall layout are what is critical. The hardware, assembly, materials and other processes can and should should be adjusted to suit the situation. For example the front panel assembly that covers the driver should be modified if cut on a CNC for the inner disc and outer round panel to "lock" the braces into place
  12. The CKRAM is a compact, single 21" subwoofer, that is designed to be flexible enough to suit a variety of applications, but is primarily intended for sound reinforcement or Pro use. Dimensions: (24" / 610mm) Width x (30" / 762mm) Height x (28" / 711mm) Depth Drivers: Most of the good pro audio 21" drivers will work well in this cab. The Lavoce SAN214.50 is a good budget option. The Eminence NSW6021-6 is what the CKRAM was designed with during modeling. It or the B&C 21Ipal are top tier options. Other drivers that should work well include 18 Sound 21NLW9601, 21I
  13. It will be this spring / summer. Last summer there were a number of external forces that conspired to halt testing for 2019. I'm hoping this year I will be able to get more done.
  14. SME I think we are on the same page. I was just clarifying what was meant by my comments in the bass myths section. They are primarily addressed at the subjective terms that "audiophiles" & average people throw around about bass and the causes of those terms. Also the trend of visually comparing subwoofer impulse responses. Linking the subjective to the objective is where the fun really is. This is a DEEP subject well beyond the scope of 2 paragraphs in the bass myths article. For example wide range dynamic capability is often overlooked entirely when discussions of transi
  15. That's a nice looking speaker setup. Don't think I'd kick it out of my room.
  16. I've been off grid for a few days and trying to catch up...It's been busy here! Looks like new builds are coming from new users. QSC PL380 is a solid amp. My only gripe is it doesn't have the DSP and networking features of a lot of the newer amps. I'd use the 21DS115 or Lavoce SAN214.50 instead of the 21NLW9601 just due to the lower cost and the slightly higher excursion. Nice looking final pics of your cabs Peniku. N8DOGG I'm glad to see you finally finished them. What are you replacing in your room or can you actually fit more subs? Last I heard your room was basi
  17. You are taking the quote out of context a bit. I think we are talking about 2 different things. Objective signal reproduction capability of the speaker vs subjective perception of the reproduced spectral content. Comparing the technical reproduction of a system that is flat from 0.1-100kHz to one that is sort of flat from 40-15kHz with some resonance issues is a slightly different comparison. Yes technically the wide bandwidth system can better reproduce the input signal (assuming it also has equivalent headroom, dispersion, distortion, yadda yadda) Objectively that is correct however I
  18. Looks like fine progress to me. Just take your time with the build (Measure 2 or 3x and cut once!) and apply advice from others who were in your shoes at one time. It's not that difficult. It just takes some experience and elbow grease.
  19. I use big chunks of mattress foam to block ports all the time. It works just fine. Yes it is a little bit leaky. No you will not be able to hear or tell a difference. Just make sure it's over sized and stuff it in there. Make sure the general shape is the same as the vent. The pieces I use are about 8" thick. I'd go with a 3rd or 4th order high pass at about 13 or 14Hz. Your electronics chain and amps will add a 1st or second order high pass at around 8Hz to begin with. 48dB is a little excessive but IMO but it won't hurt to try it.
  20. Give it a shot. Tuning should be in the 15Hz range. Your sealed will probably only have an advantage below that point. If you went to 4 of them for extra headroom with the lowest tuning I don't think the sealed will have any advantage until very low in frequency. Likely below 13Hz or so. Depending on your room it may be more reasonable to use a tactile transducer setup for the really low stuff rather than throwing piles of sealed subs at it.
  21. The newer drivers with higher xmax and lower Qts lend themselves to compact 6th orders better than the drivers of old. IMHO. At least that's how I ended up on these during the MAUL design process back in late 2014. I'd like to think I had a hand in popularizing this type of 6th order among the DIY crowd and perhaps even the pro market (In this case it's probably a result of form following function). Among the DIY scene they sure seem to have exploded in the last year. There's always been 6th order variations going back decades though. Too many variations to count. There really isn't
  22. Thanks for giving a quick review. Good set of notes. Sorry I thought I mentioned leaving the handles off on this page! It is recommended to leave the side handles off until the driver is installed. It helps a lot. Extra space and access to the screws. I always use gasket tape on the handles so they can be easily removed. Gorilla glue!? #5 is DB approved. Not sure about the photo limit. I'll ask about it.
  23. I like seeing all of these builds. It is giving me motivation to finally finish off the prints for the slightly more compact sub.
  24. I also had an Inuke amp die within a few weeks of purchase. Behringer will honor their warranty and replace it. If it is out of warranty that is unfortunate. However considering the popularity and number of units in the field there will be some that fail but it seems to be relatively rare. Sorry to hear about your amp.
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