btwhite92 Posted May 26 Report Share Posted May 26 Hi all, After 2 years of having a SKRAM build on my radar, I'm finally nearing the end of the construction phase of my first (of hopefully 6 someday). This is my first cabinet build with an access hatch, and my plan for attaching the hatch to the rear panel was to use threaded inserts. The engineering part of my brain wants to love threaded inserts, but after many failed attempts with them - including just now on this build - I've learned that without either a CNC, or a drill press and a laser interferometer, they're basically impossible to line up straight enough by hand to be useable. Is it common to just run plain old deck/wood screws to attach an access hatch? I'm not expecting to be inside the cabinet often (hopefully never) but a bit nervous about threads blowing out after a couple times taking hatch on/off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peniku8 Posted May 26 Report Share Posted May 26 8 hours ago, btwhite92 said: Hi all, After 2 years of having a SKRAM build on my radar, I'm finally nearing the end of the construction phase of my first (of hopefully 6 someday). This is my first cabinet build with an access hatch, and my plan for attaching the hatch to the rear panel was to use threaded inserts. The engineering part of my brain wants to love threaded inserts, but after many failed attempts with them - including just now on this build - I've learned that without either a CNC, or a drill press and a laser interferometer, they're basically impossible to line up straight enough by hand to be useable. Is it common to just run plain old deck/wood screws to attach an access hatch? I'm not expecting to be inside the cabinet often (hopefully never) but a bit nervous about threads blowing out after a couple times taking hatch on/off. The two most important things here are the type of threaded inserts you use and the accuracy/size of the hole you make. For hatches I use M6 bolts and the hole for the threaded insert is a 7.5mm. The holes are drilled on my cnc with cnc drills, producing an exact 7.5mm bore, which will guide the insert perfectly so it's 'pull' itself straight simply because it doesn't have room to sit at an angle. If you drill holes by hand, a lot of factors have an impact on the actual bore size you end up with, so I'd recommend testing different drill sizes on some scrap material and measuring the actual bore, so you get that right. You might find out you need a 6.5mm drill to make a 7.5mm hole (holes turn out 1mm larger, if the drill tip if offset by 0.5mm for example). I've tried out just about all types of threaded inserts I could find and these are imo by far the best ones: They grip the wood much better than anything else I've tested. I use this Makita to install the inserts: For the through-holes on the other panel I drill holes 1mm oversized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klipsch Posted May 26 Report Share Posted May 26 14 hours ago, btwhite92 said: Hi all, After 2 years of having a SKRAM build on my radar, I'm finally nearing the end of the construction phase of my first (of hopefully 6 someday). This is my first cabinet build with an access hatch, and my plan for attaching the hatch to the rear panel was to use threaded inserts. The engineering part of my brain wants to love threaded inserts, but after many failed attempts with them - including just now on this build - I've learned that without either a CNC, or a drill press and a laser interferometer, they're basically impossible to line up straight enough by hand to be useable. Is it common to just run plain old deck/wood screws to attach an access hatch? I'm not expecting to be inside the cabinet often (hopefully never) but a bit nervous about threads blowing out after a couple times taking hatch on/off. I'd add speaker gasket with screws or threaded inserts. I used my CNC and still managed to have a few inserts and bolts not lined up perfectly (my fault, not the machine's). Wood screws, with the right temperament will work just fine. Like you said, you shouldn't need to get in there much (or hopefully ever again). Edit: BTW - looking great so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MomoTon Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Finally I can post some news about "my" skram N°. 3 and 4. Although we love our first 2, we decided to change the design for the new ones, replacing the acryl front with a layered front with 12mm mpx, 12mm Fenix compact plate and 1mm brass inbetween. The pattern in the fenix plate should represent dry, splitting earth, witch turnes out... maybe not close enough to get it, but still looking cool Also, we stopped making those fancy carbon layered mapple plates, resulting in maybe 10-15% more weight but a hole a** less work haha We also built a trailer for our sound system, towed by an eletric tuk-tuk, resulting in an approx. 1000kg sound bike Next week we will take our Tuktuk for a ride on the vienna Pride demonstration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolo95 Posted May 29 Report Share Posted May 29 wow! so nice!! can you share the details on amplification and processing ? that tuktuk is genious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MomoTon Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 The 4 skrams are all loaded with B&C ipals and each one is powered and processed by an ipalmod. We were lucky and bought everything more than a year ago, so prices were more than 30% less than today The tops are 2 beyma 12mc700nd in a closed box paired with a mundorf pro AMT. We are missing a little kickbass, hopefully we find time to build a pir of PM Tops soon. Tops are driven by a labgruppen fp1000 and processed by a bss soundweb dsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolo95 Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 the PM60 or PM90 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jngggggggg Posted June 6 Report Share Posted June 6 Hey all In a bit of a crisis here so sorry for the sense of urgency. Would really appreciate insight from cabinet designers in particular. I’m assembling a couple of skrams and a friend brought up a concern regarding a modification I did to the vent panel (component H) which has basically put the build to a complete stop… Was hoping someone could advise whether the mod is significant enough to be audible and whether I should abandon the idea entirely. I reduced the depth of component H by 1-3/4” purely for aesthetic reasons. See attached pictures. The vent panel would end at the correct spot on the hatch side but be short on the front. I did not realize that this would reduce the horn length and the vent length. The vent dividers (component I) and mouth braces (component R) painted black in the pictures were also modified in the same way, but I figured that’s a non issue as that’s just bracing. Would greatly appreciate everyone's advice here so I can keep the build moving. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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