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Everything posted by MomoTon

  1. We finally "finished" our two skrams, at least so far, that we could fire them up for the first time, last weekend. Together with our self designd Top (AMT + double 12" in CB, also just "finished") this was one of the most stunningly setups I´ve ever heard. The skrams made the perfect underline for the Tops, wich were designed to produce the cleanest sound possible. It´s absolutely crazy what output just 2 Skeams have, while the Ipals arent´t even moving. Looking forward to build 2 more of them (but the next will be made of the good old BB and be Paintet with duratex. No fanc
  2. kipman, we bought the epoxy and carbon fibre on a german website, "HP-Textiles". Important is to not use the classic fibric mesh for the good look, but the one where the carbon fibres are just laid and needled together. We tried different epoxy systems, but both, the one especially for laminating, but also the universal did a good job, if you know how to do the job haha Unfortunately, we still didn't finish our subs, so we dont't even know if all the work brought also some improvements except the weight savings, hopefully we know it in some weeks...
  3. Through recommendations on other forums, I came to the conclusio to try a closed box first, if the output doesn´t hit my expectations, I will change to a BR design External dim. should stay less than 150L if going for sealed, I would make one duoal opposed box, a second would be added later in a BR design, I think 2 drivers should already hit my expectet SPL so this one would be cheaper obviusely Drivers that came in my mind: 15DS100 (~250€) 120L Vb recommendet for 40Hz tuning 15DS115 (~300€) 80L Vb recommendet for 40Hz tuning 18DS100 (~264€) rec. encl. size 200L 😕 (
  4. Thank you two for your comments! I will look for different drivers in BR designs and also 4th Order BP. I did only a little research on them, but wasn't able to get a 12" in a 4th o. near to the response of the 6th o. design. So I tried to use a 15" instead, and with a little more modeling here, in the same nett volume, a B&C15Sw100 or 15ds100/115 sems to be the better option over the 12", especially as the price is the same as for the beyma 12p1000 hope to have some time at the weekend to model some 4th o. and compare them to the BR design
  5. On my way through the forum I came across a sketch Ricci put in another thread which looks pretty similar to my sketches, except the front chamber being a horn like in the skram design (and its for a 21" chassi). What are the advantages/ differences using a horn instead of a volume + vent? I would tip on more output due the compression, but because it´s physics, there must be some tradeoffs? Can anyone help me understand how to splice this design into sections to put it into hornresp, and with what kind of compression ratio I should start messing around with? Alternatively, are the
  6. I´m working with two friends on a high end sound reprudaction system, and although this is our first project, we are about to aim for the highest. The main Speakers use an Mundorf Pro AMT with two Beyma 12MC700ND in closed boxes, in MTM config., driven by a FP10k. Under the mains, we use two skrams, loaded with the 21ipal + Mod, another two are hopefully coming soon. Now we are designing a smaller Setup for monitoring or to use in smaller rooms. For the heights we use again a Mundorf AMT (for half the price as seen in the link, but still crazy expensive, but they are worth all the Mone
  7. I don't know if you saw my skram built on page 26 or so, I built 2 of them, made of popplar plywood with a carbon-epoxy layer around to make it stiffer. Then we made the front out of 25mm transparent acryl glass, just to loose the weight savings due to the 10kg (just a wild gues, I forgott the real numbers) of those fronts haha. We didn't put them on a weighting scale yet, but without the heavy front, they would be ridiculously light! So light that we will make a base filled with sand to make sure they dont move more than the drivers do. We also didn't fire them up, but that will happen s
  8. In Europe (Austria) , you would pay easy 3-400€ for the BB here. The cool thing with the price list is, one can still get a good discount on them, as those are the recommended retail prices. With the discount my salesman told me to expect (also for single units!) i could get all the parts for the EDM sub, so two M-Forces, the Amp, DSP and all the other components, for under 6k before VAT, but in austria, you just open your busines, and don't have to pay VAT. And then you have a beast that can go 145dB+ and down to under 20Hz (half space) with, as they say, nearly no compression... D
  9. actually the price for one Transducer is at ~3000€ before taxes, with the Amps, DSP, Interfaces ect. you should land under 6k, even with the big DSP.... AND it´s much easier to get those than you might think. You don´t even need a VAT number, at least, if you get to the right salesman. I´m actually thinking to build one of the EDM subs (2x M-Force) and put it under 2-4 Skrams... I think that would be a great match up.
  10. the acrylic is 25mm (and about 10kg haha) and has a tongue on its 3 sides. the side panels and the top plate were slotted, there you can also see the epoxy edges we had to cast, as popplar is really soft. to fix the brazings on the front we made external 5mm acrylic tongues and slotted the brazings as well as the acrylic front
  11. after 4.5 months of preperation and four 12h days for assembly, we finished our second skram, the first one world wide with an acryl glass front? We didnt measure the weight yet, but although the front has about 12kg, it feels a lot lighter than our prototype made of birch, as we used popplar instead. It also feels rock solid due to the carbon-epox enhancement on all surfaces and edges, but the measurements will show if the light material has any disadvantages...
  12. Wellif we would change tuning and the relationship, I think we will stick to the original design and re-cut all the internals to 574mm... Yesterday we started with the cf layer on the side panel... with a massive cross and a frame on one side (later the inside), and a recessed drive-in nut on the other side, we pull the panel vie a m12 bolt towards the cross. After the cf layer, this nut should be hidden in the panel. The same way we will also insert more drive-in nuts on the bottom of the side panels, as well as in top and bottom panels... Instead of the cross, we are then easy
  13. I finished my first skram some months ago, which was only a prototype and reference built for us. The next 2 skrams shall be absolutely high end- not only in terms of it´s fantastic bass, but also in manufacturing. They will not be made of 18mm birch, but poplar. Due to the lower density and stiffness, we will overlay all the panels with carbon fabric and Epoxy. To get the side panels even stiffer, we will pre stress them (seen in the first picture) and overlay the stressed panel with carbon, when we press it flat again, the carbon on the outside of the skram should have enorm pre-tension
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