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(4) Sealed 21": Funk Audio UH-21v1


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#41 SME

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Posted 15 September 2016 - 06:30 AM

I didn't realize that Aura driver dust cap had a point like that.  The dust-cap on the UH-21v1 is inverted and has very slight curvature.  It is aluminum, subtly brushed in a pleasing radial pattern.  My picture isn't very good, but if you look closely it has a diffraction pattern kind of like a compact disc.  :)



#42 chrapladm

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Posted 15 September 2016 - 01:43 PM

I guess I can kind of tell with the BR disc on top. BUT with the reflections it was hard to tell.


"Music is not in the notes, but in the silence between."


#43 Ricci

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Posted 15 September 2016 - 02:41 PM

Good looking drivers. Should be performers. Underhung drivers with 350 normalized motor force. LOL. :D

 

Nathan this is a bit off topic but did you start dressing the tinsel leads on the drivers using the CF cones? Just wondering.



#44 Funk Audio

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Posted 15 September 2016 - 04:00 PM

Good looking drivers. Should be performers. Underhung drivers with 350 normalized motor force. LOL. :D

 

Nathan this is a bit off topic but did you start dressing the tinsel leads on the drivers using the CF cones? Just wondering.

Yes we are now using a high end 3M shrink tube over the whole lead wire, and I am really happy with how they are working, So far in testing they seem to be immune from any possible "flapping"(and subsequent touching of the cone as a result) as can be an issue at certain frequencies when they are long enough to accommodate these excursion levels. And I have never liked leads sewn into the spider.


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#45 Kyle

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 07:52 AM

Good looking drivers. Should be performers. Underhung drivers with 350 normalized motor force. LOL. :D

 

Nathan this is a bit off topic but did you start dressing the tinsel leads on the drivers using the CF cones? Just wondering.

Yes, tis a lot, probably the most out of any production uh driver ever.

 

its got some neo I hear :)

 

The hard part is doing that with a 2 layer coil (or 4-layer flat) which I'm guesing this driver is?

 

Some fun facts

 

Double the turns on the coil doubles the BL^2/Re

Doubling the diameter of the voice coil  (and maintaining the same B Flux, e.g. increasing the magnet to accommodate the larger flux gap area) will also only double the BL^2/Re.

Doubling the B will quadruple the BL^2/Re and also no increase to inductance like the other two. Magnets are by far a motors greatest asset.


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#46 SME

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 08:10 PM

its got some neo I hear :)

 

Just a bit.  :)

 

 

I have to admit that the appearance of the woven carbon fiber is growing on me.  As I've said, the pictures don't really show it.

 

Something surprising is how, after having them only a short while, they don't actually look so big.   I'm not sure how that makes sense, but especially when I visualize them installed in the cabinets I'm designing, the impression I get is that they will appear quite compact.  They will also help the 12" in my mains look more like the mid drivers that they are.  ;)

 

I'm iterating through designs to try to get a solidly braced enclosure with minimum material use.  I'm hopeful I can get the final weight down to 175 lbs, maybe, but we'll see.  I'm also stalled because the trim rings I bought for them fit just a bit too close to the surrounds.  I want to resolve that issue before I finalize my design and start building.  Once that's done, I'll be ready to roll.



#47 Kyle

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 10:14 PM

ya, you need to start using 12's again, then the 21's will look freaking huge :)



#48 Ricci

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 01:47 PM

A good sized 15 like a RS-390HF looks small to me any more. 12's look like 8's these days.



#49 Funk Audio

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 03:16 PM

A good sized 15 like a RS-390HF looks small to me any more. 12's look like 8's these days.

And 8's look like tweeters.



#50 SME

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 09:09 PM

And 8's look like tweeters.

 

Heh.  Such whimpy tweeters.  My horns are 15" wide:

 

living-room-front-2016-09-15.jpg

 

 

Edit: Just to note, these subs will be going on each side of the rack, occupying the space currently taken up by the two Hsu Research subs (different models) and the tables that the front left/right sit on.  I may go a tad taller than the racks are (23 inches) but not by very much as I plan to use a retractable AT screen right in front of the TV and center channel and hope to be able to drop it as low as possible.


Edited by SME, 20 September 2016 - 09:26 PM.


#51 MemX

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Posted 22 September 2016 - 09:41 AM

Heh.  Such whimpy tweeters.  My horns are 15" wide:

 

 

 

 

Edit: Just to note, these subs will be going on each side of the rack, occupying the space currently taken up by the two Hsu Research subs (different models) and the tables that the front left/right sit on.  I may go a tad taller than the racks are (23 inches) but not by very much as I plan to use a retractable AT screen right in front of the TV and center channel and hope to be able to drop it as low as possible.

 

Discreet!

 

I bet your wife never even noticed you'd put them in place :P  lol  :lol:



#52 SME

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 08:48 AM

Sorry about the silence!  I got preoccupied with other things, namely more work on optimizing my front LCR.

 

It also has taken me a while to iterate through cabinet designs.  I didn't think it would be hard, but I am trying very hard to keep the weight down without skimping on bracing.  I think I'm about 95% there, far along enough that I started work today trimming my sheet stock.

 

The external dimensions will be 800 mm x 700 mm x 600mm (W x D x H) in a dual-opposed side-firing configuration.  The anticipated weight will be about 100 lbs without drivers and about 190 lbs with drivers.  My wife has already informed me that she will *not* be helping me move these.  The internal volume will come in at around 9.5 cuft or maybe closer to 9 cuft after accounting for the space occupied by the drivers.

 

Right now, I'm planning on using only one 3/4" layer of plywood on the baffles.  They will be mounted flush to the basket rim, leaves 3/8" of plywood actually under the drivers.  However each mount point will have a brace attached directly under it, and these braces will connect to the sides and top of bottom of the box as well as additional cross braces.  Even though it seems a bit weird to not double the baffles, I expect it will work out fine.  I am planning to separating the driver air chambers from one another.  This costs me about 6 lbs and 1/8th cuft volume, but gives me the option to run separate signals to them down the road.

 

I'm planning to cut dados into the front/rear and top/bottom panels for joining these panels to the bracing substructure and to use my Festool Domino to join the substructurere to itself and to the baffles.  I haven't decided yet whether to use rabbet/dado joining or Dominos between the outer panels.  I'd like to think the rabbet/dado style joining will seal better, but Dominos will probably be easier.  Either way, I should probably seal the seams using an appropriate product as a separate step.

 

It might be a few days before I finish the initial cuts.  I'm moving slowly.  The panels are a bit large for my workspace, and given the complexity of the design, I am doing my best to cut everything to the tightest possible tolerances.  If I succeed, it will make things a lot easier further down the road.

 

Edit: I still haven't solved my trim ring problem, but my best idea right now is to route each ring from plywood or MDF sheet attach it to the baffle, allowing it to overhang the outer rim of the driver.  The trouble is that I won't be able to make it more than 2" or so thick, and I expect that to be a big pain to route.  We'll see when we get there.


Edited by SME, 28 October 2016 - 08:54 AM.


#53 Kyle

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 05:03 PM

Be bold and CNC an aluminum trim ring out of 1/4" stock. Saves a lot of weight. Or are you trying to flush the surround with the baffle and have the driver deep inside the box?



#54 SME

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 05:46 PM

Be bold and CNC an aluminum trim ring out of 1/4" stock. Saves a lot of weight. Or are you trying to flush the surround with the baffle and have the driver deep inside the box?

 

Any suggestion as to where I could access a CNC machine to do this?  I'm also not sure how much I'll have to pay for four sheets of 1/4" thick 24"x24" aluminum or similar.



#55 Kyle

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Posted 28 October 2016 - 06:11 PM

I always outsource to a local shop. Should be a couple hundred max w/ anodizing --not cheap, but I personally love touches like that on subs. Makes them just a little more unique and special :)



#56 SME

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 07:26 AM

Be bold and CNC an aluminum trim ring out of 1/4" stock. Saves a lot of weight. Or are you trying to flush the surround with the baffle and have the driver deep inside the box?

 

The basket rim will be flush to the baffle with the surround sticking up about an inch.  The plywood/MDF ring would attach separately to the baffle, so added weight wouldn't be an issue.

 

 

I always outsource to a local shop. Should be a couple hundred max w/ anodizing --not cheap, but I personally love touches like that on subs. Makes them just a little more unique and special :)

 

Yeah that's pretty pricey when multiplied by 4.



#57 Ricci

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Posted 29 October 2016 - 12:41 PM

Have you seen Funk's snap in / bolt through trim rings on his subs? Maybe he would sell you a few if you asked.
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#58 SME

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 08:11 AM

I actually originally ordered with trim rings, but was given the option to cancel and order the cheaper rubber ones instead.  Maybe I should reconsider having Funk make them, if he's still willing.



#59 Kyle

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Posted 01 November 2016 - 04:26 PM

Do it!



#60 Kyle

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Posted 01 November 2016 - 04:31 PM

Good looking drivers. Should be performers. Underhung drivers with 350 normalized motor force. LOL. :D

 

Nathan this is a bit off topic but did you start dressing the tinsel leads on the drivers using the CF cones? Just wondering.

 

Are they @ risk of shorting against the CFcones? Resin should provide enough insulation no?






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