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SME

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SME last won the day on December 11 2020

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About SME

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    Super Bass Overlord

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  1. SME

    Ascendo

    Room dimensions and rough floor plan would also be helpful information.
  2. Thanks! Hopefully the "burn-in" phenomenon is normal and is something that's usually done at the factory.
  3. I can't recall where, but I have read that many brand new electronic components (capacitors among some things) do have a break-in process, but it is very rapid, essentially done after the component has been charged for a few seconds. Distortion of 0.1% isn't exactly high---*it* might be slightly audible in an amp depending on the particular nature of it---but if the problem vanishes after pushing it briefly, it doesn't seem like anything of much practical concern. However, this does suggest that Hypex is not testing the finished components at their specifications before shipping them. I
  4. Thanks for doing this! Those CVR amps definitely look attractive from a value perspective. It's nice to know your doesn't run like a furnace. Amps typically sound very similar when operating within their performance capabilities. However, differences are still possible for a few reasons: Amps typically use a high-pass filter to protect them and/or the speaker(s) from inaudible DC signals, and they vary a lot with regard to where the HPF kicks in. However, most amps don't start rolling off until 20 Hz if not much lower. This is something that should show up in the REW measurements if
  5. I don't know if the size and/or dimensions work, but this looks like the design you want: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/reed-exodus-anarchy-25hz-tapped-horn.1238398/ Edit to add: A caveat is that it requires a high-order (DSP) crossover. You really need the crossover to cut the output above 80-100 Hz or else it won't sound very good.
  6. Wow. Nice looking setup! Just so you know, the frequency response / sound quality of these designs depends quite a lot on the drivers that are installed. Using drivers with weak motor strength like the cheap car audio drivers you used probably won't sound nearly as good or give you nearly as much output as using driver(s) with a strong motor like the ones recommended. If building new SKRAMs, I suggest going through the trouble of finding/buying nicer drivers for them, and if there's any possibility of modifying the old cabinets to accept better drivers, definitely consider doing th
  7. Distortion matters in two ways. First, the flexing of the panels might involve enough "excursion" to be nonlinear, which would *generate new distortion*. Second, the panel resonances may *amplify existing distortion* produced by the driver inconsistently across frequencies. These are actually very different mechanisms. For example, light stuffing may address the problem of amplification by absorbing the higher harmonics before they can leak out, but it might not be thick enough to control energy build-up at the fundamental frequency of the panel where "excursion" is greatest. And yes,
  8. Ahh, very interesting. If that's true, then perhaps measuring distortion might be a decent proxy to assess how well the speaker construction is controlling these mechanical resonances. Seeing the comment by @peniku8 above reminds me of our regret from last time you visited. Recall that you ran your speaker with the mid-range crossed much lower (like 150 Hz?) because it was better contained than the woofers. You specifically did this to avoid the cabinet resonance problems, but we wondered if my EQ system would fix the problem or if the non-linearity/distortion too big of an issue.
  9. SME

    Ascendo

    Thanks! I was not familiar with Ascendo and know nothing about them except for what's on their web page. Subs with 32" cones and larger are very rare. I expect such a large cone sub should do ULF bass very well, but a large cone is not strictly required. Multiple smaller subs can do just as well, and multiple subs in general give superior sound quality in small rooms when placed at different room locations. I think 21" is a very good "sweet spot size from a design standpoint. As drivers get bigger, you need bigger cabinets to get the most out of them, and once you go above 21", the c
  10. Something that might help is to put gasket tape in the areas where the metal grill makes physical contact with the wood.
  11. Thanks for the clarification! DJing is an interesting case because you're using content that was mastered but you're also essentially doing a live show. And to make it more bizarre, it's like you're working with a different band every time you switch songs.
  12. *jaw drop* At 30 cuft, those things are going to be huge though!
  13. Thanks for the clarification! And it's probably best to disregard what I said above. I don't think this is the same driver as in Funk's top-of-the-line 24s, but I may be wrong. It should still perform very well with a big enough box and enough power. Is there a power handling spec?
  14. Is your suggestion specific to live concert music presentations? I'm wondering because I believe mastered music usually has lots of tricks like that applied already. Of course, most mastered music doesn't much rely on "headroom" either. Also, my system has high headroom, and when I turn music up to high SPL, I don't usually notice mud that wasn't there before. If anything, more SPL usually helps a little bit. I reckon that mud is the cause of that audiophile trope: "those speakers really open up when played louder." Indeed! Or maybe the sound is just muddy. Likewise: "those speake
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