Droogne Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 After a long time (and many many discussions about different drivers) I finally have chosen a driver and a design for my first build. The driver is the very powerfull Sundown Audio zv4 18D2. A lot of info by Ricci can be found in the driver section. I have ordered 2, so will be making 2 exact enclosures. Enclosure will be 62x62x50cm sealed. So around 158L before driver and bracing. Material will be carpent grade 18mm ply. Will be using a 22mm or double layer 18mm for the baffle. This because there wont be a lot of place between the driver cutout and the internal top and ground plate. Reason for this design is simple. To save room, and for many other reasons, I have chosen to have the sub as a platform for my LaScalas, and for "WAF" like reasons, it seemed best to let them have the exact footprint. This is also why I'll be using ply, to have it match the LaScala. Do I know it would probably perform better in a huge ported enclosure? Yes, and I'm also planning on doing this with these drivers. Plan is as followed: 1: build the 2x sealed enclosures 2: build the 2x ported (460L) enclosures 3: adjust the driver cutout to fit the Dayton Ultimax UM18-22 (or similar other 18" driver). The difference between them is very small. I can also make the enclosure tot fit the Ultimax from the start. The difference is .06", and I doubt it will matter for the Sundown driver that the cutout is this much bigger. Why stepwise, and not start with the ported subs? It comes down to my inexperience in subwoofer DIY and to keep my options open for the ported design. As this will be my first build, start with something small, cheap and simple seems the best way. That way I can see what tools I need to upgrade or buy for the more complex (slot)ported build. I will also have 2 subs that are moveable when needed, and less of a money loss when I make a big mistake. The ported would also be a speaker platform, but I don't have the mains that will be placed under them, so it might be better to wait till I know the exact dimensions of those mains. I would also like to keep the option open to use a 24" driver for the main subs. In that case the Sundown drivers would go in to 2x smaller (ca 300L) ported subs in the back. Build itself As I'm new to this, I don't know the hurdles I'll have to jump over, and what to look out for. Any pointers will be hugely appreciated. The cutting: I'm gonna have the same people who are building my LaScalas cut the ply. This to ensure the dimensions are correct. Baffle cutout: as said before I'll probably use a double baffle, with a 16,75" cutout to ensure the Ultimax will fit in nicely in the future. I'll be using a regular jigsaw for this. Putting it all together: this is where it gets tricky. I don't have big enough clamps.. When I build my flatpack horn loaded subwoofer I didnt require it, as it used screws instead. Except if someone can give me a way to still use glue without screws, or if I find somewhere where I can rent the clamps I'll be doing it like this: pre drill all the pannels, probably 2 or 3 on each side, then also predrill into the second pannels, this time with a smaller diameter. I would also mill the holes on the outside so the screws will sink in nicely. When putting it all together I would still use boatloads of glue, but the screws will keep the pannels thight to eachother when drying. Bracing I'm gonna copy the bracing from the Marty subs (see attachment). So simple rectangular pieces from one side to the other. Would be around 2 on each side, so around 6 in total. Around 15,6L. I could also go for 2 windowbraces if there is enough spare ply. Filling: Another subject where I'm wading in the unknown. What would you guys suggest? And how would this affect the volume I put in winISD? Wiring As the cables are a lot cheaper, and I'll probably will have to lay around 5-10meters of them, I'll be using regular speaker wire. Any reason not to do this? Not sure yet how I'm gonna wire it all. I have 2 subs, which both have 2 2ohm loads. Do I wire them together inside, and connect them both to the same terminal? And do I use 1 or 2 sets of terminals for each sub? The hornsub In already have, has 2 terminals connected together internaly. Or is this not necessary when using regular wire instead of SpeakON cables? Amp & EQ Amplifier Will be using a PSA2700 amp for now. See attachment for all the specs. It has a 2x 350W output at 8ohm, 530@ 4ohm, 750W @2ohm, is bridgeable, and can tolerate a 2ohm load. What would be the best way to wire the subs? I could bridge the amp and wire all the coils in series. That way I have over 700W (not sure exactly how much it was). If I wire them for 2 seperate 4ohm loads I have 530W each. The Amp is definetely temporary. Open to any suggestions for a new one. Will probably be looking for a good second hand Powersoft model. What output (or specific model) should I be looking for? Other option is an iNuke NU6000 as they go for absurdly low prices on the second hand market. EQ I'll be using a UMIK-1 setup mic and REW to determin the appropriate PEQs for my Behringer Ultradriver DCX2496. Thanks for reading through! Any thoughts, suggestions or questions are very welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.