klipsch

Ground and neutral will use the same bus bars back at the panel, unless it is not the main panel. Subpanels can be wired separately (which then converge back at the main). The main bus bars should be connected to the pole that's at least 8 feet in the ground.

That's a good deal on the QSC. Enjoy those skrams! The clone I have is running on a 240 20 Amp. I'm sure these amps appreciate the higher voltage and amperage

Those turned out great!

I just got rid of all my LR filters to land on my current settings that I am really enjoying. Go figure. I started with LRs with the intent that the sealed subs and skrams and SH50s could all keep the frequency response flat where each was being integrated. However, I was getting unfriendly nulls no matter what the time alignment. Once I'd solve one, another would crop up. I just switched everything to BW24s. Then, decided to play the sealed subs 0hz up to 90hz and skrams 31hz up to 100hz. I too was surprised how much better I liked the 100hz crossover. I did crank it up to cold war volumes for a bit I've been lacking that chest compression in my room, which I enjoy when listening to live music / drums... No longer. If Ricci will sell those other NSWs test models for cheap, I'd build 2 more skrams Ended up here for now: I'll be looking forward to what you figure out in your testing.

Haven't EQ'D the skrams yet, but do have levels and time/phase lined up (I think) in the room with the other drivers in the room. Still running the skrams wide open. These skrams with the NSW are visceral, clean, and dynamic. I'm not an audio review guy, so I apologize for my remedial description. My ears and chest are highly enjoying the skrams. Thank you again Josh!

I was looking at the 380 as well. It was well regarded in the forums I came across. I was convinced to try a clone though. So I ended up buying a sinbosen 20000q. I know many of us understand the circuit board experience, but I think many of us are interested in the route 66 dead hooker story.

@RicciI have some closed cell foam. Would that work to block the ports? I only made a 2 port block out of wood and would need something else for that duty. Guessing a High pass LR48 @ 14hz for the 3 port test? I have 2 HT18s nearfield in a front firing sealed box behind the MLP for full tactile. However, even though I'm on a concrete slab, the 6 other HT18s behind the screen in 3 DO sealed boxes do give tactile feel in the seats, but I would not give up the nearfields at this point. And the sealed never gave me as much chest compression like skrams either. Maybe that's on me with the previous positioning and calibration.

Great details and response as usual. I appreciate the write-up. I need to work on integration more, but these skrams are awesome. Finally getting the chest pressure with kick drums I was lacking. I need to try things with 3 blocked ports. If that works well, I am wondering if I just sell the sealed boxes and go all skrams...

I wouldn't argue... Ironically I believe danley has a patent on TH while bose has a patent on 6th order BP.

6th order bandpasses seem to be very popular over the past couple of years. Any reasoning as to why that is? Seemed like tapped horn popularity came right before...

That skram is looking good @Tahoejmfc! I've been listening to my pair ... need to do some EQ'ing still and deciding whether to run the skrams with 2 ports plugged or wide open Here is John Wick 1's club seen peaks ... sealed subs are low passed at at 33 and skrams are high passed at 31 both at LR 48db/octs ... both skrams have all 4 ports open ... this is at -10 db reference with sub preout running 3.5 db hot vs all channels which are crossed at 80hz Anyone else crossing skrams with sealed for the ULF? LR or BW or any recommendations? Edit: I guess I should also add that these skrams are just stupid ridiculous and I'm pretty sure I could fit at least 1 or 2 more behind the screen ... Thank you Ricci!

Installed behind screen. Hope to have them powered up this week. Unfortunately will have no time run any voltage to them this weekend 😫

It is possible. Oversimplification: The skram follows this concept, except Ricci made the skram slightly bigger (2 skrams are slightly bigger than one skhorn) and Ricci modified the ports to accommodate more tuning options.

Nice work! Looking good!

Nice. Looking forward to seeing you and your build thread for those Maybe use the cnc to build some Danley Jericho-esque mains for your PA 😁

Try making a skram for an 8ich anarchy woofer. I have 2 of those in 2 tapped horns. They are paired with lsr 308s in my office. Great stuff. Someone model that please

Give those PA a try I was thinking with 2 ports blocked on the skrams that there should be good response in to the 20s. Maybe try running the 3 dual sealed from 5 to 30ish and skrams from 30ish to 100ish. There is a dual front firing pair of 18s too behind the first row of seats (they're good for tactile). I'll need to play around and see how things work out. The 18s are the original stereo integrity ht18s so nothing bad, nothing great. I'll watch movies around reference, usually 5db below. I enjoy music as well and hoping these skrams bring some more fun to that arena.

Will do. There are 6 18" drivers behind the screen right now (3 DO sealed boxes), along with the center SH50. I'm assuming the ports on the skrams are going to push out some air and potentially move the screen. Planning to finish skram 2 over the next couple weeks and then move the skrams in so the ports are below the screen and put 1 of the DO on top of each skram. I'll leave the 3rd DO as a speaker stand for the SH50. I think this is a good idea. The scram and the DO boxes are both exactly 32 inches deep, so hopefully that works out well.

Negative sir. It is an SH50. That is one of "the triplets" as my wife likes to call them. 😉 Ran the last sheet for the 2nd skram. A shot about halfway through...

1 is done. On to making it a friend.

The dxf that were posted could probably be used to be put in to Vectric (Vcarve or Aspire) or Autodesk (fusion 360 or other), run the nesting tools, and create the necessary toolpaths. That should save several hours of time by using those files.

Happy New Year!

Sorry for the confusion. I was suggesting the use of melamine sheets to use for the vacuum housing box. Phenolic lined sheets can be used too if they're cheaper in France. Both are usually particleboard middles with lining of both materials on the outside (veneered like you mentioned). The melamine surface is well sealed to keep the multi-vacuum vac box chamber air tight. However, making a box is not necessary. Some just hook 1 vac per zone. The cost of mdf VS melamine in my area is the same. Making a vac box out of melamine saves time and money to seal the vac box if it is made of a porous material like mdf or wood. Metal would work just as well (maybe better) if you have access to fabricate that cheaper. I used 3/4 mdf for the vacuum board and have used regular mdf and umdf for spoilboards. The ultralight mdf may have been slightly better for these motors. I just had a free mdf sheet on hand once I went through the last spoilboard. Each spoilboard has always started out as 3/4". PS There are full phenolic sheets (no particleboard, but full phenolic throughout). Those sheets are several hundred each here in the States. High-end cnc machines use those as the vacboards. They just carve the pattern and need zero sealing due to the phenolic properties. MDF will expand and change with temperature and humidity, but phenolic supposedly does not.

Thanks for the detailed info about the Amps. I only have a dedicated 20amp 240v for the clone, so hopefully that would be enough for a 20k. The xbs folks sent me a picture of a 20 Amp 240v plug they'd use (save me some work of rewiring). 4 sided shapes may work better for vacuum VS an L or other shape with more than 4 sides. I think I remember reading about that somewhere. I do mask the table when the smallest vacuum zone I have is too large for the work material. I have a few small pieces around 6"x20" to put around the work piece to cover the vac zone area. If the work pieces are really small, less than about 6"x6", I need to lower the IPM due to the smaller surface area. I have this image printed from a long while back near the cnc. I think it is accurate based on sea level atmosphere to approximately determine the hold down force. Years ago when I sprayed the duratex, I don't think there was a spray version. I've seen that there are spray and roller grades now (think on parts express). I did not research to see if those grades are marketing or if it maybe is more economical to buy roller grade and thin it to make "spray" grade or any other details.

Haha about avsforum. I can relate - there may be 8 18" drivers in the room where the 2 skrams are going... 😯 I also have an extra b&c 8ohm 152 that needs a home. Build another skram? Buy another 152 and try a skhorn? 1st world problems... What type of clone Amp did you go with? I'm thinking of trying one for the 2 skrams. Maybe I should not have, but I suggested 3 vac motors as that is what I think I should have done. That is awesome that you and your Dad are working together. Congrats on his upcoming retirement. Right now, I have 4 vac motors. Can run either 2 at once or 4 at once. 2 is what I run 90% fof the time. 2 works for full 4x8 sheets. I've run 4 on large warped boards, but that was for material I ran for a few customers. Also run 4 for carving and cutting smaller pieces. For your smaller work area, 2 would probably be great, but for when you upgrade or cut smaller pieces, 3 would probably be a good option. I've never sprayed Warnex, but I've sprayed duratex before. It was not the spray version of the duratex. I watered it down a bit and it sprayed well with a cheap Warner sprayer (maybe it was 5 to 1 mixture). However, I ran a thick nap roller on the sprayed surface after the spray to get the texture look.