Ricci

18 hours ago, Tahoejmfc said:

OH MY GAWD!! WELL WORTH THE BUILD. These things pound!!!! FUCKINEH

I will have my Powersoft K10 here next week and start to really set things up with tuning with a sound engineer friend from Meyer.

THANKS RICCI & Everyone else that has contributed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Notes from first build.

2. Don't install one of the side handles until the driver is mounted. Otherwise you end up hitting the inner part of the handle with a sledgehammer to make it fit because I used gorilla glue to put in the handles with and couldn't remove a handle..

3. Don't install the handles with Gorilla glue, its a mess and squeezes out on the frontside.

5. Do apply liberal amounts of Sake to the process.

Don't know why I cant attach photos over .41 mb?

Thanks for giving a quick review.

Good set of notes.

Sorry I thought I mentioned leaving the handles off on this page! It is recommended to leave the side handles off until the driver is installed. It helps a lot. Extra space and access to the screws. I always use gasket tape on the handles so they can be easily removed. Gorilla glue!?

#5 is DB approved.

Not sure about the photo limit. I'll ask about it. 

I like seeing all of these builds. It is giving me motivation to finally finish off the prints for the slightly more compact sub.

13 hours ago, Power Plant Sound Company said:

Folks , I am in the Pro business from the 80s and buying an NU4- 6000 was the worst investment. The amp lasted not even a day and quit from just being on . It had no load, no pressure . No satisfaction was given  from Behringer . My worst ever audio sound gear experience.  Am hurt and felt real cheated . 

 

I also had an Inuke amp die within a few weeks of purchase. Behringer will honor their warranty and replace it. If it is out of warranty that is unfortunate. However considering the popularity and number of units in the field there will be some that fail but it seems to be relatively rare. Sorry to hear about your amp. 

Probably...Either way the rear wave of the driver is exiting back in front of the driver and the driver is offset back into the enclosure a bit which is TH like. Somewhere between a TH and Tline seems to fit. That is a huge driver and a really big enclosure. Should make some noise. 

19 hours ago, SME said:

My counter would be that the bandwidth is too large and too smooth to be a TH.  The EQ might help with smoothing response, but what about overall bandwidth?

I could be wrong but to me the response looks TH like after a liberal dose of DSP. There's a notch and a small peak in the 65-80Hz area. A tuning at 20Hz or just above would likely put the "spike" in the 70Hz range. The M-force drivers don't model normal either due to the motor force. 

I think it's actually a TH variant. It is hard to tell for sure from the angle of the image but it looks like the driver fires into a throat where the motor is this then splits to the left and right and travels up, down, forward back up and then out from the top of the other side of the driver. I think! It's really hard to tell for sure from the pic. 

Anyway I'm going with a TH. 

On 1/6/2020 at 11:15 PM, peniku8 said:

Maybe @Ricci can fit a RF19 inside the 1qft cab.

I've got a bunch of cab "ideas" but nothing that small. Lacking the initiative to finalize on anything lately. 

On 12/31/2019 at 2:40 PM, Tahoejmfc said:

Hi Everyone, I have been following Data-Bass and the other forums for many years while building an art car. This year was its first year to the Playa after 4 years of work, a divorce, a child being born, etc etc. I teach illustrator, CNC Plasma, CNC Router, Laser and NFPA 160 Flame effects at a local makers space here in Truckee CA. I own a Boss Laser HP3655 Stainless Steel cutting 150Watt CO2 laser that I am using to make the art car with and helping other artists with their projects as well.

This project is a labor of love and not for profit.

  http://www.instagram.com/jackalotus  https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qSE1zhUI5/  https://www.instagram.com/p/B2ISZPCBKgp/

I currently have in mind building my own cabinets using two 21SW152's I currently own. I have been working on ported box designs for quite some time, but keep drooling over Ricci's awesome work on various forums going back to I think 2010. I plan on building tops with help from a Electrical engineer friend who works at Meyers Sound.

I have a stack of Baltic Birch sitting here in my garage waiting for the right design to build around my 21SW152's and I think I have decided to throw my ported designs in the waste basket and go with the SKRAM design of Ricci's that everyone here is building.

I plan on placing 2 of these boxes under the head of the PlayaPachederm.

My Question is... Is anyone willing to share/sell an Autodesk file or VCARVE file?

Also wondering how i can donate to all the hard work Ricci put in for us? Need anything laser cut out of stainless let me know

Welcome to the forum. Impressive work! Thanks for the kind words. I'll check out your links when I get time. Looks like a cool project. 

I don't have any V-carve files. I don't own a CNC myself. All I can help you with is Solidworks files or other 3d cad file formats if that helps. Maybe one of the other guys will be able to provide some. 

On 12/31/2019 at 9:06 PM, peniku8 said:

btw, @Ricci, I'm sorry for now completely derailing your Skram thread! Maybe we should start a dedicated CNC thread somewhere?

And btw, Happy New Year, y'all!

Ha! Doesn't bother me in the least but it has been quite the discussion. 

I've always used the roller grade Duratex. People used to suggest thinning it out for spraying but I believe that was before they released their own spray version. If the cabs are going to see real "road" use I'd do at least 3 coats with a sprayer. If rolling it the amount of texture in the finish will vary depending on the roller used. A heavier texture with thicker application might be preferred for toughness. YMMV. 

Either way the stuff is easy to use and clean up isn't too bad. The odor isn't too bad either. Make sure it's at least 55deg or higher when you apply it. It doesn't like cold weather. 

Looks good! A pair of these should on that amp should be really hefty under 30Hz. 

Excellent posts about general CNC use and settings guys!

On 12/24/2019 at 8:40 AM, klipsch said:

Finally had some personal time to make some chips.  Dry fitting the first one before moving on to cut the second one.  Thanks for the design Ricci!

Are you all using any acoustic foam inside the skrams?

 

pictures or it didn't happen:

Looks great. Yes I would use some lining in the vented section of the cab. Do not use any in the front section. Just make sure to clear the vents well.

Happy holidays.

3 hours ago, sakkara said:

  Hi Everyone,

First post on the forum. Read through this thread a few times and im thinking of building a skhorn. Im looking for a cabinet /driver/amp combination that can handle musical  and complex bass at low hz, early dub with alot weight in the low end or the UK hardcore continuum with complex varying deep sub bass lines. 

What sized space do you think a single skhorn would power well?

I used to go to a night in a basement, about a 5x10m across dance area, single large cabinet stack at the back, it would get a solid hi-fi club sound  with good power in the low end.

Would it be be better to plan to build a couple of skothorns to get this kind of sound in a similar area?

This will affect how much money  i allocate to the amp.

Which components o you think has a highest impact on the quality of the sound, the size/number of cabinets, the quality of driver, or the quality of the amplifier? 

Quality of the sound is my highest priority it doesn't have to be the full chest shaking loud that you will get out of RC1.

Nice one 
Sakkara

Hello Sakkara...Welcome. 

In my opinion total speaker size/number of cabinets is most important especially in the bass region. Driver quality and synergy with the cabinets is second. Amplifier quality is 3rd.

How many cabs to use depends on the room, application and how loud the average playback level is. For any type of live, DJ, dance club type of situation I'd recommend at least 2 Skhorn's or 4 Skram's or Othorn's as a starting point. Double that amount to really get the place rocking. 

On 12/5/2019 at 10:08 AM, Waynes said:

This is the first time I'm building something like this and although I have read this whole topic, I do have a few questions:

• We'll be using the sub with our Nexo PS10 tops, which are protected by their Nexo td controller. We don't have the budget for a good dsp yet so we'd like to use the sub output of the td controller for our sub. The crossover point is 120Hz and the recommended power for the Nexo LS500 sub is 300 - 800W (also 4ohm like our 21sw152). I guess with the protection circuit of the td controller there is no chance we could damage our driver? Will it limit much too early? Will the 120Hz crossover work well? I know this isn't an ideal situation but we'll have to make it work at the moment and if there's anyone here experienced with the nexo controller, I'd like to know what you think. It should work but won't be ideal. A bit of EQ and flexibility in the low pass frequency and slope will help to dial it in better. The driver should be relatively safe with that amount of amplifier but I'd not assume that it is indestructible.  I've learned that nothing is impossible. 
• Do you use some kind of extra seal to mount the driver or just bolt it on tight? Just bolt it tight. The front gasket on the driver will seal well. 
• Is there a reason to mount the Speakon connector in the hatch? There would have to be a loose wire on the inside to make this work? The hatch is the easiest place to put it. It's on the back of the cab and if you need to make wiring changes or check connections it's easy to take the hatch off. The wires can be secured with enough slack that they will not contact the cabinet, or you can wrap the cables in foam or fabric if you think it may vibrate on a cabinet wall. 
• Do you solder the wiring to the driver and connector? I don't. I use crimp connectors and spades usually. Some people prefer solder. Either will work fine. 

Thanks in advance!

See above. 

9601's are sold...Thanks Paul. 

4 hours ago, peniku8 said:

Josh please get an F132 and do some CEA tests ❤️

So far the pro sound MFG's haven't been beating down my door to have >$10K flagship subs tested!

I need to hear one of these M-force systems at some point! 

2 hours ago, paulys55 said:

I will take those 9601s if they are still available. Just message me so we can work out details. Thanks. Paul

PM sent. 

I've never tripped a breaker with a K20 or the K10's . I have only used them on 240v with 30A breaker though. Same with the SP2-12000's. That's the AC I have at home, at the rehearsal space and for the outdoor GP testing. I've only hooked a K20 to 120v one time to check dsp settings. Breakers will pass significant current beyond their rating for a few seconds so it takes a ton of long term power to trip a 30A 240v line. Even the SP2-12000 dumped into 2 ohms per channel at clipping with a long sine sweep didn't do it. Perhaps a few sweeps back to back would've done it eventually. 

Over here the AC available is usually 120v 15A, 20A or 30A and 240V 15,20, 30 ,40 or 50A. 240V is primarily only used for heavy duty appliances and motors. 

1 hour ago, peniku8 said:

What do you guys think about these? Ever came across Hoellstern before?

I've heard of them but never seen one over here in the states. They seem to have a pretty good reputation among the live sound guys. Not sure these would drive 8 ipals that well. The specs list a couple of things that stand out. 1.6 ohm 10kw rating per channel has a note about calculated as 2ohm + 20%? I didn't see mention of if the power ratings are with all channels driven or not or the duration or signal type. The big spec that jumped out at me is the long term power limit is 16A, so I don't expect it will do very well in a sustained power test. The K20 and K10 allow for settings of up to 32A for example. How useful truly sustained power into low impedances is is up for debate. A lot of people seem to get excellent results out of the modern "stun gun" amplifiers. Seems like this is a good competitor for the X4 and X8. 

Also check out the Linea research amps. Not necessarily for driving 1 or 2ohm loads but otherwise I've heard a lot of good things about these. 

12 hours ago, paulys55 said:

A friend of mine has a project in school where he has to make something with a CNC machine and I asked him if building a sub enclosure or two could be part of his project. He will let me know in the next few days. If the answer is yes and if it is ok with you, I was hoping to build a pair of SKRAMs. I'm pretty sure you said those drivers would work nice in that box so if he can do the cuts for me I will buy those subs. Will let you know in a few days at the latest. I would love to use them in my theater to suppliment my HST18MKii and they could be taken outside when I have yard parties. 

Paul

 

Yes they should work great in the Skram's. A pair will be just what the doctor ordered for outdoor parties. 

1 hour ago, paulys55 said:

How about the 9601s?

 

I still have those available. 

It is not. It sold a few weeks back.

3mm or so undersized should work. Depends on how many coats of Duratex though. If coating both surfaces multiple times you may need a bit more.