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Droogne

Sundown ZV4 18D2 - sealed enclosure

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9 hours ago, Droogne said:

It's a shame I dont have anyone IRL to help with this part ūüėõ¬†those subs are heavy beasts ! Also a shortage of cables.. I went with speakon cables in the end, and mine are not nearly long enough to run through the room to test all positions.. Will figure something out, but it might take some time.

Ah yes. It can be difficult to move these large subwoofers around. Especially by oneself...

Do you have a dolly or handtruck handy? Though tedious, removing the driver from the cabinet would lighten them up real good. ūüėõ

Did you purchase pre-made speakon cables or make them yourself? All my subs and LCR's are hooked up with Speakon but I made the cables. (just bulk cable that I terminated each end with a purchased set of speakon plugs. nothing special.)

9 hours ago, Droogne said:

That is actually a very helpful tip! I don't really have the time (and cables or help) to try out all positions, but I do want to configure the setup for now. Starting with 1 placement might be a good way to start. Will help me figure out the other parts like delay, PEQ and integration. Will try that later this day! 

 

That's okay if you can't do it right now. Do the best you can with what you have available. Though in the grand scheme of things HT-related, having some cables on hand is pretty affordable and will aid in setup of your system to it's fullest. I mean, if that's the sort of thing holding you back. ;)

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5 hours ago, Infrasonic said:

Ah yes. It can be difficult to move these large subwoofers around. Especially by oneself...

Do you have a dolly or handtruck handy? Though tedious, removing the driver from the cabinet would lighten them up real good. ūüėõ

It's not only the weight.. It's also moving everything around so I can safely replace the subs. I got something with wheels to drive them¬†around the room, but I need to remove the carpet to be able to do that.. And yes all the couches have their weight on the carpet √Ė¬†So yeah lot of work !¬†

5 hours ago, Infrasonic said:

Did you purchase pre-made speakon cables or make them yourself? All my subs and LCR's are hooked up with Speakon but I made the cables. (just bulk cable that I terminated each end with a purchased set of speakon plugs. nothing special.)

I was always wondering about the speakon plugs, can you give me an example of one? I was considering doing that too, but ended up just buying some short speakon cables. Way cheaper to be able to use regular wire (with cheap plugs). 

5 hours ago, Infrasonic said:

That's okay if you can't do it right now. Do the best you can with what you have available. Though in the grand scheme of things HT-related, having some cables on hand is pretty affordable and will aid in setup of your system to it's fullest. I mean, if that's the sort of thing holding you back. ;)

It's more that I dont have them laying around for the moment, so subs with placement on the opposit of the room is not achieveable. I can hower split the second and place 1 amp near each sub. Got some pretty long RCA cables so that is one way I could do it. The second amp does only have 800W 8ohm, but that should be enough to do some  readings. Or would that change the response in aspect to the original amp I would use ? 

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Curious, I see you have a mic calibration file, what mic do you have and how did you get it calibrated? I have an EMM-6 and got it calibrated independently by Spectrum Labs flat from 5-25,000hz and it cost me $110 for both the mic and the calibration (but if you buy an EMM-6 from them, the cost is $75 with a 45 and 90 degree off-axis 5-25,000hz calibration) Changing your amplifier will change your response shape only by the amount that the frequency response is different from the amps. It won't change your shape as much as having a properly calibrated mic.

When it comes to plugs, here are the ones I recommend: http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/nl2fx They're two-pole, 40 amp continuous, 250v rated plugs that work with these or any of their 2-4 pole chassis connectors. http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors/nl2mp. If you get those chassis connectors, you can use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011OB49X2/, crimpers and 12-14 AWG wire and you will not need to solder. Also, if you get any Speakon plugs, you will need a Pozidriv #1 bit to tighten the screws. 
You could also make a cable with four-pole Speakon on one end, two two-pole Speakon cables on the other end, wire it so each pair of the four pole is to a voice coil of one sub, and the two two-poles are each connected to an amp or an amp channel. That way, you can series or parallel the coils without actually opening the cabinet and moving wires around.

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On 5/16/2018 at 12:31 AM, Droogne said:

Lower crossover might be hard (they are at 80hz, and 60hz for the LaScalas might be hard).  Can you tell me why it would be easier to integrate? 

Lower crossover can be easier to integrate because the wavelengths are longer so interference is more likely to be constructive.  However, every situation is different, and there are pros and cons to different approaches.  I wasn't sure how low your mains could go.  Some other guy on here with horns was pretty much set on using 60 Hz, and I think I might have gotten you two confused.

If your subs play well together to higher frequencies, it can often be helpful to cross above 80 Hz.  I cross at 100 Hz FWIW, and in fact I currently have MBMs behind my sofa that contribute up to about 150 Hz on the FL/FR channels with optimized DSP to make sure everything plays together in phase.  Bass localization is not an issue at all, but I'll probably change this configuration at some point in the future.

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8 hours ago, StainlessSteve said:

Curious, I see you have a mic calibration file, what mic do you have and how did you get it calibrated? I have an EMM-6 and got it calibrated independently by Spectrum Labs flat from 5-25,000hz and it cost me $110 for both the mic and the calibration (but if you buy an EMM-6 from them, the cost is $75 with a 45 and 90 degree off-axis 5-25,000hz calibration) Changing your amplifier will change your response shape only by the amount that the frequency response is different from the amps. It won't change your shape as much as having a properly calibrated mic.

When it comes to plugs, here are the ones I recommend: http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/nl2fx They're two-pole, 40 amp continuous, 250v rated plugs that work with these or any of their 2-4 pole chassis connectors. http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/speakon-chassis-connectors/nl2mp. If you get those chassis connectors, you can use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011OB49X2/, crimpers and 12-14 AWG wire and you will not need to solder. Also, if you get any Speakon plugs, you will need a Pozidriv #1 bit to tighten the screws. 
You could also make a cable with four-pole Speakon on one end, two two-pole Speakon cables on the other end, wire it so each pair of the four pole is to a voice coil of one sub, and the two two-poles are each connected to an amp or an amp channel. That way, you can series or parallel the coils without actually opening the cabinet and moving wires around.

Thanks for the suggestion! I have most of that already in place, but the 4 pole suggestion could be useful in the future ! The connector does make sesnse, should have gone with that instead of buying expensive cabling. Oh well. 

 

About the calibration file. I use an UMIK1, which has calibration files on the REW site. 

 

 

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That calibration file is not ANSI certified and they're usually the same calibration file for multiple mics. You can get a calibrated UMIK1 against an ANSI certified mic that is flat to 5hz for $120.

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