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Tahoejmfc

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Everything posted by Tahoejmfc

  1. I have 2 SKRAMS, both with B&C 21SW152 4ohm. And Yes, Crispy ass coils, wow did it ever fry those wires. i did learn while rebuilding, that their is alot of space inside the space the coil moves within. The backside of the 21SW152 has multiple holes that vent heat and the space is about 5-8mm wide.
  2. https://www.instagram.com/jackalotus/ you can see the driver being taken apart as well as the Playa deployment in my feed and my story and story archive for BC speakers has more
  3. Well, I finally blew a B&C Speakers 21SW152- 4ohm in a SKRAM running a QSC - PL380. Burnt the coil up real good. In my rush to get the system running on the Playa I accidentally hit the clip limit switch OFF on the PL-380. I currently am working on a RECONE and am having trouble deciding on the glue to use. Regarding the SKRAM design after using them now for 6 months. OUTSTANDING!!!! With a quality driver like the B&C 21SW152 the Bass is as others put it, LUXURIOUS! Paired with Meyers Sound Tops, incredible!
  4. I understand wanting to go smaller on the box design. But after the last 3 weekends using the SKRAM with a B&C 21SW152 4ohm and a QSC PL380, I'm convinced that lugging around the box is well worth the output the original SKRAM design puts out. It is heavy yes... it take 2 people to load it onto a snowmobile deck on my truck, yes.... it takes up alot of space in my garage for storage, yes.... but when you crank it up with some Meyer Sound UPJ's, its worth the tried and tested design that Ricci put a ton of time into designing. If you have a alot of free time on a CNC router and free time in your shop building this and want to experiment then this is why I love this conversation. Can't wait to see your results. My experience with the original design is pretty ear blowing for bass music as well as for all around boring club music.. which I will never let happen again on my system after the shit that was played on it last weekend out of my control.... Ricci, the forum is still limiting me to 0.41 megs of image upload. would love to share photos, but the forum won't let me
  5. Yes, If you are coming from a 50 amp circuit, you should be adding a 30 amp circuit breaker where you change your plug type/voltage/amperage Yes 8awg is overkill, as that is what I had handy in the shop that day. When I make up my proper subwoofer extension cords from the amp to the driver, I will be using 11awg or 12awg class 2 wire to connect to my neutrik connectors. 63amp? must be some European standard, odd number. Powerlock/camlock is what comes off of large generators and goes to a break out box We don't link ground to neutral, it is done for you in the main panel/breaker box at the service drop in your house. You always run them separate, but Klipsch is correct, they are one and the same and are joined at the root house panel on the same bus bar. Yes it is weird.. basically you have 2 grounds in your wiring here in North America. Below explains it further. "Having a ground wire that connects to neutral back at the breaker box provides an alternative path for the electricity to flow. The neutral wire provides the primary return path for current from the live wire, the neutral wire its self is a ground wire designated to carry current.Why are we connecting a neutral and a ground together? - Quora" "At the main service entrance the neutral wire is bonded to ground. The neutral wire from the utility is also grounded at the pole and other locations (e.g. the neighbors service). The earth actually does become a parallel path for current, however the impedance (resistance) is so great compared to the neutral circuit wire, that very little current actually flows through the ground. Whenever you have an auxiliary panel the neutral and ground should not be tied together because the ground wire becomes a parallel path for current with the neutral wire (any current going through the neutral wire will be shared with the ground wire because they have the same connections at both ends). The current traveling through the ground wire causes a voltage drop (any time current travels through a piece of wire there is some resistance - current x resistance = voltage). This can cause a small voltage on the resulting ground circuit. As far as I know the only risk is the possibility of nuisance electrical shocks and/or radio interference due to the voltage drop from the current passing through the ground wire (which is a parallel circuit with the neutral wire)." Very confusing. It took me a long time to really understand what was going on.
  6. Currently I'm using 8 AWG class 2 for my short run of speaker cable from the amp. It is what i had in my shop for welding and I still need to do some cnc routing to mount the nuetrik connector flush to the back of the sub.. Google Images wire gauge charts to get the proper wire size according to the amperage of the circuit required. Wire size gets smaller with a larger number. Referring to the 120V 30 amp circuit feeding the amp... I used 10 AWG for a 7' run from my main panel 30 amp D-Square fuse to the L5-30 (120V 30A) Connection for the amp(Amazon has these connectors for cheap). It seems like here in the US, most amps run off of the 30 amp 120V L5-30 connection (correct me if I'm wrong please) A friend's theater has the same connection for when they host Tahoe Wormhole (Bass Heavy Whomp Whomp) with a PK system and it crushes using just that one connection for 6 double 18 subs. The remaining highs/mids of the system are powered by 4 different 120V 15 amp Edison plugs. I know you can get all sorts of adapters from a 240V 30 or 50amp welding connection on Amazon.. to convert down to a 30 am 120V by just grabbing one of the white, green and black leads. The white(neutral) and green(ground) are actually bonded together at the panel.. so you technically have 2 grounds and one hot (black) connection at the circuit breaker making 120V at the rated amperage of the circuit breaker that the black is connected to.
  7. I ended up getting a QSC PL380 from a Guitar Center employee willing to shave 20% off the price, so it arrived yesterday for about 2047$ shipped brand new. I have only turned up the amp to about a 3 out of 10 so far. The sub is in my workspace in the garage paired with Meyer UPJ-1p tops and a Dbx PA2 DSP. My partner says that the windows upstairs were rattling so hard she thought they could break.. She is a bit of a pussy foot when it comes to her experience with Bass. Me on the other hand can't wait to turn these SKRAM's up to 11. Currently the ports barely show much air movement... but the way the bass hits, it is so thick, deep and powerful. The box I built really is a solid cabinet that should see years and years of use after the local temps come up enough put a good thick coating of Duratex on it. I ended up pulling new circuits off of the main breaker panel for a L5-30 30amp 120V connection for the amp and another 15amp connection for the tops. Previously the Sub amp was connected to only a 15 amp circuit and I could tell it was somehow limiting the real output of the amp when turned up. ( I might be wrong here but I swear the subs drive better when the PL380 has a 30amp circuit dedicated to it.) Next step will be to get the Sub and tops to the local movie theater in Tahoe City a friend owns and set up there to do real full volume tests of the output
  8. Well i got scammed pretty hard on the K10 amp. Sold to me as a lightly used amp with very low hours.... I pulled the amp out of the box and within 2 seconds knew the guy that sold me the amp was full of sh....... in his lightly used statement. It looked like it had been on tour for 10 years, never once cleaned and covered in RUST, GRIME and had a bent case as well. The dust screen was full of grime and had never been cleaned. I didn't even want to have a look at the circuit board as I knew from my electronics experience that it was going to look like a crusty 5 day old dead hooker on the side of route 66. Any thoughts on the QSC PL 380 for driving a B&C 21SW152 4 ohm? or recommendations for another amp choice in the under 3000$ range?
  9. What kind of gasket tape? Yah, Gorilla glue, Im not a wood worker, but more of a mechanical engineer so I don't really know what is the correct method for assembling wood, it was a learning experience.... - sent from my vibrating keyboard with occasional shit falling off the walls of my garage
  10. OH MY GAWD!! WELL WORTH THE BUILD. These things pound!!!! FUCKINEH I will have my Powersoft K10 here next week and start to really set things up with tuning with a sound engineer friend from Meyer. THANKS RICCI & Everyone else that has contributed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Notes from first build. 1. Don't rotate the mounting hole pattern, the handle will be in the way, making tightening 2 of the screws a slow process. 2. Don't install one of the side handles until the driver is mounted. Otherwise you end up hitting the inner part of the handle with a sledgehammer to make it fit because I used gorilla glue to put in the handles with and couldn't remove a handle.. 3. Don't install the handles with Gorilla glue, its a mess and squeezes out on the frontside. 4. Have a friend there just incase when glueing and screwing the final piece on in, mine was the bottom with vents attached and I could have used a hand to hit it with a block and hammer from the front to seat it proper as my arms are not 4 feet long and I had to run the screw gun on the other side. 5. Do apply liberal amounts of Sake to the process. 6. Bondo works great, so does the Gorilla glue, I used 2" screws on the perimeter, 1.75" on interior work, and a few 1.25" here and there. Don't know why I cant attach photos over .41 mb?
  11. Just spoke to my Powersoft connection and have been informed Powersoft has discontinued the K lineup of amps except the K20. They have existing stock of K6's that can be modified to K10 levels with DSp for 3250$ at discount
  12. Ive been looking at your system, love it, and nice furry hat! I would love to talk about your system on the phone. I am running B&C 21SW152's which are rated at 2000W, peak 4000, so I'm not sure what would be the best option. 530-three-eight-six-0649. I am in Lake Tahoe California right near Reno and the Playa. would love to chat. -fellow furry hat collector (I've been to Mongolia several times so Ive ended up with 4 fox fur hats)
  13. Box 1 of 2 is almost complete. The lower vent section still needs to be attached properly. Looking at amps currently. The Powersoft LITEMOD 4HC with a Medium heatsink is looking pretty tasty if i go with a Plate amp, still need to get a price quote. Otherwise I'm looking at a Powersoft K6 with upgrade Mods equivalent to a K10 with DSP is a little over 3,000$. Powersoft K20 with DSP is closer to $4,000. itech 12000hd is $5,000+ Lab Gruppen FP10000q is just over $3,000 but i hear Behringer purchased them and there are reports of dropping quality and reliability/experiences with poor service and support. I figured I should brand the box so I laser engraved it 3/16" deep which will eventually be coated with Duratex black. ニャーニャー MEOWMEOW
  14. Started cutting yesterday at the Makers space in town, the Truckee Roundhouse. I first image is a test cut with half mm differences for getting the wood to fit just right. Second image you can see I forgot to turn off the layer for the handle recess and it cut it on the wrong side. Otherwise everything is fitting nice and snug. Once I have a cut and fit tested speaker cabinet I will share my illustrator file.
  15. Not sure why my shop would smell? I’ve got a great exhaust system on the laser. I'm actually thinking of putting a small driver in it, but the calcs would have to be all done again. Otherwise it would be less than perfect. Maybe throw a B&C driver in it just for fun. I’d need to cut a freshie with proper Baltic birch as well, gotta be done right....Duratex it as well. I have this old outlaw audio amp sitting here and it might work really well for a miniature office setup. That would be pretty sick to have a scale model of a SKRAM with some mini Meyers UPQ tops.
  16. It’s rated for 3/4” but you would need to run nitrogen to keep the wood from burning too much. I cut 1/2” at like 10mm/sec.
  17. It is a Boss Laser 3655, 150 watt CO2 laser. Regarding controlling depth on dados, no, i am not able to control the depth very well, wood density changes and the laser does not sense the variation in density of the material. If I was using a material like Plexi I can control the depth very well. This is just for mock up and its not perfect, but at least it gets a working model in my hands
  18. Hi Everyone, I have taken @dsl1 files from page 15, edited them to test the fitment of everything on my laser scaled for 5mm and 3mm thick birch ply. I have made a few minor adjustments so far and created a good assembly test setup 6.5" wide, 10" tall and 9" deep. I have ordered the handles, T-nuts and Duratex from Parts-Express. I have to say I really like the updated design that eliminates all of the multiple bracing pieces in the original design files and combines them into larger single pieces for faster assembly. I plan on changing some of the joints on my files so that the edges interlock when I do go to V-Carve and CNC cut the full size design. I also plan on adding a piece that covers all of the front ports for storage so no critters get in and make a mess. Once my scaled files are done for the 3mm and 5mm birch I will share the illustrator and dxf files so anyone can make a mini box if they would like to as well. I like physically handling the box at this scale, it helps me visualize the assembly and work through any kinks.
  19. Hi Everyone, I have been following Data-Bass and the other forums for many years while building an art car. This year was its first year to the Playa after 4 years of work, a divorce, a child being born, etc etc. I teach illustrator, CNC Plasma, CNC Router, Laser and NFPA 160 Flame effects at a local makers space here in Truckee CA. I own a Boss Laser HP3655 Stainless Steel cutting 150Watt CO2 laser that I am using to make the art car with and helping other artists with their projects as well. This project is a labor of love and not for profit. http://www.instagram.com/jackalotus https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qSE1zhUI5/ https://www.instagram.com/p/B2ISZPCBKgp/ I currently have in mind building my own cabinets using two 21SW152's I currently own. I have been working on ported box designs for quite some time, but keep drooling over Ricci's awesome work on various forums going back to I think 2010. I plan on building tops with help from a Electrical engineer friend who works at Meyers Sound. I have a stack of Baltic Birch sitting here in my garage waiting for the right design to build around my 21SW152's and I think I have decided to throw my ported designs in the waste basket and go with the SKRAM design of Ricci's that everyone here is building. I plan on placing 2 of these boxes under the head of the PlayaPachederm. My Question is... Is anyone willing to share/sell an Autodesk file or VCARVE file? Also wondering how i can donate to all the hard work Ricci put in for us? Need anything laser cut out of stainless let me know
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