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Boomer1950

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Everything posted by Boomer1950

  1. Just a quick update. I have attached the front baffle, so all of the construction is over. Here's a pic of the completed box with the grill frame attached by magnets. It was at this point that serious sanding began. I decided to take the edge off of the sharp edges of the corners. I used a sanding block to "blunt" those edges. After a lot of work I had barely changed the shape of the corners. I knew after I used a router once that I would not be able to use a router indoors - the blizzard of dust would ruin my house. I realized that using a round-over bit once the box was built was out of the question. My wife & I are not able to pick up the box & take it to the carport to mitigate the dust in my house - remember, I'm 69 & my wife is 70. I have no idea how much this box weighs, but I guess it's easily over 125 lbs. I had never used a plane while working with MDF (hell, I've never sanded this much either), but I decided to give it a try - starting on the bottom of the sub in order to "hide" any screw-ups. I liked the early results so I continued to the rest of the box. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. Some more sanding to go before I start applying oil-based primer. I took the sub off of the saw horses because I need to roll it around to work on the various sides. Taking it off the saw horses was an exercise of "controlled fall." No damage to the sub, the room, and most importantly, no damage to me.
  2. You guys convinced me. I ordered some Bondo which should be here tomorrow. I'm a big fan of 3M & I was glad to see that this was a 3M product. I bet it works great. I'm totally amazed that I have been able to use the Forstner bit (my first time using one) as well as I have. I made a couple of practice holes on scrap MDF & then I jumped in. I had 6 holes to drill on the grill that wouldn't be as critical as the holes on the outer baffle. Those 6 holes went better than I could've imagined. I installed the magnets on the grill "upside down". That was done to allow me to install the magnets on the outer baffle with the counter sunk screw hole facing up - making the surface of the magnet smooth - no screw head sticking up as on the grill. I didn't show the holes in the grill, so here's one of a hole in the baffle. Forstner bits work great, by the way. And, the magnet dropped into place. If I can do this, anyone can. Here are the 6 magnets in place on the outer baffle. Finally, the grill attached to the baffle using the newly installed magnets. Works like a charm!
  3. I just read that the driver I ordered from SI (SQL-15) will be at their facility in 30-45 days. I hope to have my box sitting & waiting for a while, if all goes well.
  4. I glued the top onto the sub. Just the 2nd baffle left to attach. Progress will now slow to a crawl as I start to sand - paint - sand - paint - sand - paint... until desired finish is attained.
  5. I need to make a speaker grill for my sub - to provide protection for the driver & to make the sub look a little better (in my wife's eyes). I've read something about people using Neodymium magnets sunk into the sub face to attach the grill. A few questions: I used .75" x 1.5" pine for the 4 sides & five .5" dowels running top to bottom for protection. It weighs 35 oz. before I mount the magnets. Does this sound too heavy to use? I've spent virtually no money making this frame, so suggestions to "start over" won't be traumatic for me. I have a 1" Forstner bit to sink 1" magnets into the face & onto the 6 blocks on the grill frame. I assume I should cut the holes just slightly deeper than the depth of the magnets & then cover them with wood putty & sand smooth. I was planning to mount the same magnets onto the grill, but flipped to the other side than the magnets in the sub face. I bought a piece of 36" x 36" grill cloth from Parts Express to cover the grill frame. Am I moving in the right direction? I've not done anything that can't be redone to make it better. I only have time invested in this plan so far. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
  6. More foam gluing... a view from the top - you can see that I glued layers of foam together to create 3" - 4" thick foam on some walls. All exterior walls have at least 2" of foam. . Except for the wall that the ports will be pointing at.. . The ports fit tightly through the foam "tunnels" - top port path Lower port path The internal speaker wire runs down a foam covered track in the middle of the box. I added a little more foam on the wire path to prevent any rattling of the wire. I also drilled the hole for the SpeakOn panel connector. Next up? I only have 2 pieces of the box left to attach - the top & the outer baffle. The construction of the box is almost complete.
  7. Time for an update...I finally glued the inner baffle to the front of the box. I received all of the parts for the ports. I cut one 12" port section down to 10" for each port - one 10" piece + one 12" piece + 3" flare + 3" flare... Each flare adds 3" to the length of the port, but only 2.5" counts as "port". So, two ports - 28" long - are effectively 27" long ports. I've started the foam installation by gluing 2" foam to the inside of the top - leaving gaps for the internal braces that will be glued to the top. I'm picking my moments to continue gluing foam to the box. My wife really hates to smell it. But, the 3M spray adhesive is excellent. I used 3M's "90" spray adhesive. Spraying the box & spraying the back of the foam with adhesive makes a seriously tight bond. Now, more foam gluing.
  8. Thanks for all the feedback. I'll be lining my box with 2" thick foam. Learned something new yesterday - my ports won't be made from PVC pipe. The flares & connector rings don't fit the standard pipe. I've ordered port sections from Parts Express. I already have the flares for each end. How much space do I need to have between the end of the internal port flare & the back wall?
  9. Thanks to @peniku8 for the suggestions. I'll be heading over to Lowes soon to pick up some MDF screws & a 5' long piece of black 4" PVC pipe.
  10. I've completed the installation & gluing of all of the internal braces - including 6 new braces (2" x 6.5") between the braces running from front to back (& also back to front) as was suggested by @dgage. The goal was to tie the 2 sides together & it appears they've been successful. Question: Should I cover the internal walls with 1" acoustic foam? (like the picture below)
  11. I have questions about some details concerning the construction of the box: When should I install the threaded inserts for the feet for the box? If I want to use T-nuts or Hurricane nuts, how do I tell if they work with 3/4" MDF? Do the Precision ports need threaded inserts to mount them to the outer baffle? Or, do I just use wood screws plus glue to mount them "permanently"? The 4" flares have a 1/2" flange with holes drilled into it for mounting purposes. I bought a SpeakON panel connector (Neutrik NL4MP-UC 40A Speakon Connector 4 Pole Panel Mount Part # 092-067). Do I use wood screws & glue to attach the SpeakOn panel mount or should I use threaded inserts? I'm waiting to receive my SI driver before I can determine the location of the inserts to mount it. But, am I able to buy the inserts & screws now - meaning, is there a standard insert that will work with SI drivers?
  12. I found your website the other day & was impressed with your subs. They look wonderful & I'm sure they sound even better. Very serious subwoofers.
  13. Thanks for the suggestion. Putting a couple of braces across the middle won't be difficult. It's comforting to know someone is looking over my shoulder. It's going to take shape pretty quickly now. After a year & a half of imagining what it will look like, it'll be strange to see the actual box sitting in my house. Initial impression? Pretty damn big. I know people make much larger subwoofers, especially on this forum, but my current 12" ported sub is about a 2.4 cu.ft. box. This one is a 9.25 cu.ft. box. Bigger.
  14. Thanks for the kind words @dgage I hadn't planned to have any pieces between the side braces. Certainly open to suggestion though. I could make pieces 2" wide to run between the sides. How many braces like that would you recommend?
  15. Hole Cutting - Finished. 1st picture is inner baffle. The 2nd pic is both the Inner & Outer baffles. Time to glue all these pieces together...
  16. After I glued all of the braces to the sidewalls I stood them up to create the 25" width of the finished subwoofer. Then I propped up the long braces in approximately the proper location. They run from the front wall to back wall & will be glued to the side braces. Then I propped up the back onto the other pieces just to get a better sense of the size & future fit of these elements. The first picture with back piece in place shows how the side braces on the left & right are not spaced the same distances apart - to break up the symmetry. I cut a couple of 6.25" holes for practice. That's the size of hole needed for the 4" port flares I bought from Parts Express (which they got from Precision Ports). I think I'm ready to start cutting the holes in the front baffles. I'll be cutting the inner baffle first in order to have a little more practice before I cut the outer baffle. But, it's much easier to cut the holes with a Jasper jig than I anticipated. The peg inserted into the 1/8" hole drilled in the center of the circle & then inserted into the jig keeps the router on track really well. Now it's time to cut holes in the actual baffles...
  17. Given my low skill level my decision to cut dadoes in the side walls might seem inadvisable. But after watching a couple of videos, I thought I could do it. The sidewall braces don't run from one wall to the other, so recessing the brace by 3/16" would not cause any problems. I did a couple of practice cuts & discovered that my 3/4" router cut a dado slightly less wide than the 3/4" MDF. I used the advice I found online & placed a strip of blue tape on the guide board & cut again. Still doesn't fit. Another strip of blue tape - another cut - and the MDF fits snuggly. I started gluing the side braces into the dadoes - trying to keep each one square.
  18. Thanks, Ricci. Things seem to be going well. I think your advice to take my time is crucial during a first-time build. But today I remembered what it's like to experience sublime pleasure from a very small event. The evidence of my small accomplishment (that thrilled me no end because I've been so intimidated about cutting the baffles) is below. Even though this was just practice I'm still happy I was able to cut my first hole successfully. I used a Jasper circle jig. I had to drill a new hole in the jig to make it work with my router. Still worked like a charm. Obviously, this is the disk & not the hole, but the hole looks nice, too.
  19. I want to back up for a moment. A lot of the build threads here & on other forums are done by people with woodworking skills or, at the very least, woodworking tools. Other than a handsaw, hammer & a cordless drill I had nothing I needed to make the box - especially skills. I bought a couple of Worx saw horses (that came with a couple of clamps) & a small router to start. I made a work surface for the saw horses out of scrap material from the 3/4" MDF that was cut for me. I went the more complicated way by designing the box myself using subbox.pro primarily. I also learned how to use WinISD (well enough, I hope). But, I had no background in engineering or 3D modeling software. I did have some experience with Photoshop (I now use Pixelmator Pro on my MacBook), so I designed the pieces I needed using it. That explains my rather colorful sketches. I wanted to make sure everyone understood that there was little reason for me to think I could do this. Of course, that discounts all the help you get from this forum which has been invaluable. I know this forum skews towards people with extensive sub building experience. The expertise here is stunning. But (hopefully), I'll show that someone with no experience, no tools, no skills can still build a sub. This entry will look terribly dumb, if I don't finish my sub or if it sounds like a piece of shit. I'm assuming that neither of those things will happen.
  20. Here's a picture of the progress I've made on the braces. They look pretty good, if you stand about 10-15 feet away & squint slightly. I'm sure they will still be able to perform their function - bracing.
  21. I think the relationship between speed of the router blades & the speed of movement of the router are more related than I knew. Just being aware of this will make things go more smoothly for me. I have one brace to finish & then I start on the circle cuts. I have definitely improved my technique to the point that my confidence about completing this job successfully is pretty high now. Of course, I won't allow myself to become over-confident & lose my concentration. I am using 3/4" MDF. I don't plan to use anything but glue & clamps to construct the box. I've glued & clamped some scrap material just to get a feel for the amount of glue & the proper clamp pressure. I think I have a good grasp of the technique. A little more work before I start gluing. It's moving along & I'm getting excited about the rest of the construction.
  22. I had not associated the speed of the router with the speed I move the router. It certainly makes sense. I'll keep that in mind. I realize that when the router starts to vibrate or sounds odd, I need to stop immediately. That's finally getting through my thick skull. I kept trying to "power through" those moments. I hope I know better now. The brace today went the best yet. One more to go. You'll notice I don't get much done each day. Prerogative of a retired person.
  23. @dgage don't worry. You didn't scare me, but you've confirmed what I've discovered so far. Concentration & small increases in depth seem to be key factors in routing success - especially for a beginner. The brace I cut this morning (after reading all the good advice here) is the best I've done so far. I still have 2 braces 18.5" x 30.5" to finish. After those I should be ready to take on the circles on the baffles. The practice has been essential. As has been the advice.
  24. Thanks for the advice about routing. It's a major concern for me, since I have no previous experience using a router. My plan is to use the router to cut away material from the braces I'm using inside the box. After creating 6 side-wall braces & 2 longer braces I'm hoping the process will be smoother as I learn a little. I'm comforted by the fact that no one will ever see my "router practice" braces after I finish the box. They are certainly structurally sound, but not exactly beautiful. An added benefit - every one of my braces will be somewhat different from the others reducing the chance of the same resonant frequencies being created (I don't know if that theory has any basis in fact, but it helps justify my irregular routing techniques). I know I'll be buying a circle jig, but I haven't decided on which one. There are a few that look like solid choices, but I am struggling with the selection of the jig. I'm using a 1/4" straight bit now to cut the braces. I think my best option is to be patient. If I try to cut more quickly or more deeply, I run into problems. With the circles I plan to move slowly & carefully with each pass - increasing the depth of the bit slightly each time. Your advice about the direction of the router matches with other sources I've read. Cutting circles should be in a clockwise direction. I can handle that. Also, making sure the piece being cut away is "clamped" in some way (nailed or screwed to the base board) was new to me. Obviously, it's necessary to keep that center circle from moving at the end of the process. Excellent point. Whoa, I wish I had a dust collection method. The amount of dust is stunning. I'm working in my storage building, thank god. There will be NO routing inside my house. Tons of dust. Thanks for the advice. I need all I can get.
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