rolo95

ok, there are other drivers  that maybe FIT on the SKRAM

is the HR screen for the SKRAM available ? if not i guess we need to wait till Ricci chime in 

to see if they fit

BEYMA 21LEX1600ND , RCF LF21X451 , LaVoce SAN215.30 , 18Sound 21LW1400

JAMI, 

you rock !! thanks for sharing your CNC work with us!

For convenience I packed al your CNC files on a rar archive (for the couch potatoes like me    )

SKRAMCNC_JAMIPACK.rar

On 3/21/2024 at 4:56 AM, nightingale said:

Hence, I'm interested to build 1 SKRAM to compare it with my existing design. Would it be possible to shrink the cross-section area of the enclose to reflect the smaller footage of the 18NLW9601 compared to the 21NLW9601? E.g. reduce the width of the enclose?

Gr

Peter 

Changing dimensions to an existing design is a big no, what you can do however is to build the cabinet as it is and

add an extension reducer ring so you can mount your 18" driver in to the 21" baffle, that way later on you can swap the 18" for the correct driver.

i wish Ricci published the HR screen of this design, that way  you can sim different drivers in it.

but i think there is no much leeway as this cabinet need a very strong motor driver with military specs cone

so there are not many 21"s that fit the bill, and the ones that fit are already listed on post#1

My 2 cents. 

Hey since you mentioned Michael Curtis, i just watched his videos and

I did the inline inverted  cardioid setup and indeed! works like a charm !!

i used only 2 subs but the rear rejection was unbelievable

my settings was what he used

68Hz max summation freq, rear sub offset 4.15 ft (50" ) , rear sub delay 3.67ms

since i have passive subs i used an old BSS delay processor i bought for peanuts like 4 years ago  to delay my rear sub

cause the drive rack cant delay the LOW out individually CH1 or CH2, it works like a charm !!! now i need more subs and more amps!! 

i want to build some SKRAMS!!! 

Can this design be split in to a half cabinet with 1 driver only for easier transportation ?

Why people start a thread and do not wrap up it..... Some replies and no feedback from the thread starter....wtf?

So....how are you going.

Guys,

so I'm going to invest in my starter set of tools ,what about the below router and bits

 40 bucks off right now

Does 1/4 HP will suffice?

 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-HP-Variable-Speed-Fixed-Corded-Router/999928320

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-8-in-Carbide-Tipped-Roundover-Router-Bit/1084963 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-4-in-Carbide-Tipped-Straight-Router-Bit/1095801

do I need a table saw for the cuts?

what other tools I need to start making

my franken sub cabinets 

Deleted

16 hours ago, peniku8 said:

1. the LaVoce is a perfectly adequate driver. If you're in the US, the Eminence driver will output like 2dB more. In Europe the price difference doesn't make any sense

2. a roundover bit

3. I machine circles in the top of the cabinet where the (round) feet sink into

4. uh none; you can line the walls not near the port with foam if you like

5. you answered your own question

6. that's up to how good your woodworking skills are - I built an SKhorn without a cnc

1. the LaVoce is a perfectly adequate driver. If you're in the US, the Eminence driver will output like 2dB more. In Europe the price difference doesn't make any sense

yes i am in the US, you mean the 1,200 USD eminence ? the 21ds115 are around 780 around here but the Lavoce is less than that.

2. a roundover bit

i am new to woodworking, any links to that bit ?

3. I machine circles in the top of the cabinet where the (round) feet sink into

what do you use to made those and how do you align them perfect

4. uh none; you can line the walls not near the port with foam if you like

is there any before and after graphs of response , or somebody who heard the difference if any

5. you answered your own question

lol, what i meant is  a 4 channel amp driving 4 skrams with the 21ds115-4 , one cabinet per channel 

versus 2 channel amp driving 2 cabinets loaded with the 21ds115-8 per channel.

6. that's up to how good your woodworking skills are - I built an SKhorn without a cnc

my skills are non existent, i want to learn and start making sawdust but i guess i need to start with simple boxes with scrap lumber, until i can do exact cuts i can start butching the expensive ply   , what guides or tutorials you recommend to watch so i can start my woodbutcher journey.

Guys,

impressive work each and everyone who built the SKRAM

i have a couple of questions

1.- How many dB get lost  if i get the least expensive driver from the list , the Lavoce SAN214.50 or the RCF LF21N551

2.- what router bit is used to trim the 90 degree angles in the outside of the box where the outside panels meet to each other, so to look more pro factory made cabinet with chamfered/rounded edges

3.-  do you guys use any method so to stack 2 or 3 cabinets and some feet or corner cover that fits in to each other cabinets so to "lock" and do not let the cabinet run or fall when stacked in top of the other.

4.-  what area of the back driver chamber need to be filled with ikea pillow stuffing ?

5.-  is best to use the 8 ohm or the 4 ohm version?, i plan to run 2 8ohm drivers in paralel for a 4 ohms load in to the amp channel, im not confident enough to run @ 2ohms load regardless

6.-  do you need a CNC machine to cut the wood or you can make one with just a table saw.

5 hours ago, Domme said:

Just unloaded the wood for my 2 SKRAMs, starting the build on Thursday... oh boy 😻
Unfortunately I don't have access to a CNC router so I have go with lamellos instead. When it's finished I will probably reinforce some critical edges with glass fiber fabric & epoxy resin. That has to do for now...

Starving to see your construction pics   😻

hope you can share some audio measurements when you finish the cabs !!

Yeah, double the cost and double the weight ...blah blah...

laws of physics    cant change them

the Skhorn is a 24x32x54" cab with dual opposed 18 or 21" pro drivers.

to minimize vibrations and walkaway of the cabinet!! lol !!

it is not the walkingdead, is the walkingsub!

On 4/27/2022 at 10:34 AM, peniku8 said:

@rolo95My subs are my own custom designs. Imagine Skram with half the horn length and the driver downfiring.

Ahh, kind of danley TH118, those are called tapped horns right ? or just horn subs

38 minutes ago, peniku8 said:

Would be interesting to see what can be had, even if it only makes sense when you just so happen to have the drivers already.
4 10" drivers have about 75% of the surface area of a 21. Looking at B&C's lineup, they'll have half the Xmax, but about the same power handling combined. So mid-bass would suffer a little, while you'd be giving up more in the deep bass.
What's the beefiest 10" driver with usable Qes for the Skram? SEAS L26RO4Y looks pretty neat. Disregarding that 4 of them cost twice as much as a 21ds115, they should perform decently well, although worse in every regard compared to the 21ds115. Maybe they'd take more sustained power.

what about 2 12" or 2 15"s 

4 hours ago, h3idrun said:

Going back to the original question I believe it is possible to modify the Skrams for different drivers with acceptable results, obviously better drivers are better, but from what i have experienced with my crappy drivers 4x good quality 10s could sound amazing, and possibly have better power handling and heat dissipation than 1x beefy 21"

It all depends on priorities, money, weight, transport space etc etc.

I just used drivers I had already while still saving for the proper ones that I can swap in later on, if you have to buy all new stuff anyway then its probably wise to just go straight for the ones these boxes were designed for

what about 2 high sensitivity 12"s , i saw that on most "PRO" subs that's what they use, is there high sensitivity drivers on 12" size ? looks like the car ones are not focused on sensitivity, thing is that, if  we can get away with similar or better output with less money on car drivers or PA drivers like dual 12" or quad 8"'s or 10"'s , i wish that costwill be around 400 for the drivers... not 800 that is prohibiting right now for most of us.

and btw, once you have enough on your piggybank, and get the recommended 21" , how you will fit in to it, i mean as you have a 4 hole mounting baffle already, with an already glued speaker, how do you modify it to stick a 21 there ?

On 4/26/2022 at 7:55 AM, peniku8 said:

I'm pretty happy with my 21ds115 powered subs (similar to the Skrams I guess, just a bit smaller) and l-acoustics ARCS wide tops.

PM90 components are obviously top of the line, but I personally prefer scalable solutions (the ARCS wide can be used as single 90x30° loudspeaker or in a fixed curvature line array with ARCS focus (15°) speakers).
PM90 won't achieve uniform audience coverage over a large area, but it'll do exceptionally well for small clubs or small outdoor shows. Or when you just want higher SPL closer to the stage.

 

hey. what subs you have built ? and i looked for the l-acoustics arcs and it dont show as current production in their site, so they are not being made anymore ?

On 4/25/2022 at 7:41 PM, chrapladm said:

The PM90 would be my go to choice if I was doing PA for a living on a budget. Other than Peters Line Array I would say its the best sounding speaker I have heard in a PA lineup. I got to hear it compared to a 10ft tall Krix pro cinema speaker and it sounded quite similar at 1/4 or less the size. PM90 only goes down to about 120hz but that is a lot of fire power in a small package.

Sadly I havent started building my Skrams yet due to pricing of lumber and divorce. Hopefully will start towards the end of this year.

Sorry to hear man, and yes this economic price rise have been stoping almost to a halt all the plans to build or acquire stuff , gas prices raise and thus all the chain that have to do with it, with the pandemic all of the factories and stuff in the chain suffered a lot, thus we are seeing shortage of everything and prices to inflated that you need to sell a kidney to get a pro 21" driver literally. hang in there better times must come... at least i still do not loose the faith. 

9 hours ago, peniku8 said:

That depends on your subs, your tops, the location and the kind of show you're producing.
But I guess 2:1 is a good ratio for these kind of shows. Also, the guy you're describing had 4 18" drivers for 2 tops, so it's 2:1, isn't it?

What i mean is he suppose to have 2 bass cabinets per one top cabinet, what i normally saw is 2 SRX828 with one SRX835 on top, but this guys only had 1 SRX828 tall standing ( portrait mode LOL) instead of 2 Bass cabinets in landscape mode  , anyway, many thanks for your comments, i am learning along the way as i am reading and reading some more.

i was looking at the Paul Morris PM90, PM60 top cabinets plans and geezz, those are 12" MDM configuration  , dual 12" with the HF driver in the middle, but they are not 2 way they are 3 way was the HF is coaxial and guess what  B&C DCX464 that at todays price is like 850+ bucks, just for the HF driver. and 2 12HPL76 are 240 each so , 480 + 850.. plus the horn , he used a ciare PR614 at 120 , 480 + 850 + 120, then add the wood, i guess you will do with a songle sheet of 4x8 , thats another 60 plus... screws.glue, duratex or liner and inside foam. another 60 ?  then the grill, another 60 ?

so  850+480+120+60+60+60. total 1,630 , i mean i wish to have a cost for 500 so to be on my ballpark, still 1.6k is nothing compared to NEXO,MEYER, EAW and RCF just to say some big names cabinets. i know something like that will cost around 3k each cabinet. 

so. ohh my. this effin pandemic just bringed up that speaker and wood prices have gone crazy up beisdes gas and food prices.

i wish i started this in the 80's :(, anyway. i will keep dreaming of having a compact stellar PA, i think my short-midterm project will be a pair of SKRAMS per side and one poors man PM90 ( similar design with budget drivers ) and a pair of CVR 3002 amps

and btw, i just found out something that maybe all of you already knew

Behringer are in the same conglomerate as this brands  MUSICTRIBE ( wow )

I want a Lake 44 !!! lol 

• Midas
• Klark Teknik
• Lab Gruppen
• Lake
• Tannoy
• Turbosound
• TC Electronic
• TC Helicon
• Aston Microphones
• Bugera
• Coolaudio
• Eurocom

16 hours ago, h3idrun said:

The only reason I did it is because I already had the drivers, and don't yet have the money for the proper ones. However I am pleasantly surprised with the output compared to most other PA rigs i've heard.

It depends on what you need them for, how loud it needs to be, how much power you have etc etc. Ive done 3 club shows and 7 outdoor shows that I never would have been able to do if I waited till i could afford the big drivers.

ok so this is the thing, there is a place inside, around  50' wide and around 80' long on the dance floor,the stage is centered in the back around 30' wide 15' long and it is 5' from the ground , the ceilings of the place is around 20' so i think that is not as bad as lower ceilings.

bands play there on weekends and they bring their own PA and was not thrilled ( most cause they do not have a FOH guy and others do not not know what they are doing ) but one setup that despite was not a stellar mix ( and by the way the best from the pack ) was this guys that had Active JBL SRX ,  one SRX 835 on top of one SRX828 , per side... just that.

I know you suppose to have a 2:1 ratio on subs, so 2 subs per one top ,but they only had 1 sub per top and also if i were them i would cluster the 2 bass cabinets on one side , they are loosing 3db right ? cause they are not putting the subs side by side? 

anyway, from the other far end of the room the bass was full and the mid and highs just ok. the mix was not right cause you cant hear the drums but that is not the speakers fault

at least i want that kind of sound pressure level.

( i will get a SPL meter later on so to measure the average SPL at my listening point )

one skram will sound like 2 SRX828 ? 

power amps i have is not that great, 1 dbx driverack PA over 1 PLX3002 , one XLS2500 and one XLS2000

( wish to have BSS or XTA processors) but they are out of my range.

the worst is that in 2022 prices skyrocket high and salaries have not.  that su.... big time.

how many watts you need to feed the skram's, and what is the headroom you need to have . 

10 hours ago, h3idrun said:

I have to disagree with the other guys, i've been running my skrams with 4x cheap 10" car audio drivers for a couple of years now and they still blow me away every time.

Ive never heard proper skrams with the drivers they're designed for but i've been to a lot of big festivals over the last couple of months with everything from Martin W bins to old turbosounds to EV dual 18" reflex's and I was still pleasantly surprised dragging my 4x skrams out to an easter festival this weekend.

Much lower, much cleaner, and simply amazing on DnB and other bass music, they lacked a bit of kick on techno and house music but that could be as much of a problem with my tops or tuning as it was the subs (4x martin W3s crossed at 80hz 24db LR)

This weekend I was running the 4x subs from an EV Q1212 at 4ohm per channel crossed at 110hz/24db LR and doing between 100 and 110dbc at FOH and got many compliments for how clean and clear it was.

Man the picture attachment on here is tiny, hopefully insta links work instead?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CckocfHP946/

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cckoo-vALue/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CckowEzAL-U/

thats great man !! can you share what drivers you have used and how do you modify the skram to fit them ?

3 hours ago, Ricci said:

PM90 by Peter Morris is a well designed and well reviewed DIY top cab. If you are looking to build something.  Not cheap but you know how that goes. 

Thanks Mr. Ricci

On 4/15/2022 at 9:02 AM, peniku8 said:

So your JBLs are too heavy and you wanna replace them with SH50's.

Are you aware that the SH50 is over twice the weight of your JBL? 🙃

lol, but one SH50 sound like 8 JBL's     , speaking of DIY Tops what would be some recommendations, i see people that run 4 linear style cabinets per side , sometime on top of the subs and sometimes hanged with scaffolds or truss, is there any DIY plans for linear type tops ? , also what about the vertical stacked 6.5" drivers i see one person who made RFC NX-L24A Clone to use as tops. can you stack those side by side or you need to separate them by some extent