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Samps

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Posts posted by Samps

  1. That's sort of what I was thinking. With a 15hz tune the big excursion wouldn't happen until the 12hz range and how much of that even exists. The inuke is probably down a good bit of power in that range anyhow. I'd be surprised if it could do 1k for longer than a second at 12hz.

  2. If using a bridged inuke 3000 for a single DS115-4 in a ported cab, will a HPF be necessary? If the driver can only be bottomed by a K20 I don't see why a HPF is needed. The sims show overexcursion but it seems like in real world the driver would be safe. This might let a little spl through below tune that would have otherwise been filtered out.

  3. Just need some IKEA fasteners and you're set. :)

     

    Do you need to put the whole inside together first, then inset it into the bottom? Looks like the horizontal panels and all of those channels would prevent you from assembling from the bottom up.

     

    Looking forward to the results. Don't you also have an Othorn to compare to?

  4. Sounds like you're stuck with Dayton. They're likely the only company that you can count on to have the same driver available for years to come. You could use an SI or Sundown but the driver might be discontinued a year from now. Alpine would work if you can shrink to 15s, or 4 12s. 4 sws 12s would be cheap and have a lot of stroke. And the options of dual coils would give any ohm load you needed. FS is high though.

  5. Luke has 8 sealed 21s and they still barely keep up with two othorns. Maybe if you put the sealed subs nearfield they will stand a chance. 0-30hz shouldn't be localizable at all. If they're 8-12 feet closer to you, that makes up a lot of lost spl to distance. Awesome stuff you have anyhow. Isn't there a processor available that can handle all of the work instead of those behringers?

  6. Interesting design. Looks like you put a lot of work into this.

     

    I've stared at the graphics and I just can't imagine how you will be able to build a sturdy hatch recess and still have enough room to fit the driver in. It appears the driver is nearly touching 3 sides. So the hatch opening will need to be pretty close to the full height of the cab. That wouldn't leave any material for the hatch to mount to. And reaching the rear mounting screws looks very difficult. Hopefully I'm just not seeing how this all goes together. At first I thought maybe you were building the cab with the drivers installed.

     

    If it works like you think it will, I might just build one.

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