Sushi

On 3/14/2024 at 9:53 PM, Jami said:

I modeled a CNCable version of the SKRAM fit exactly to the detailed plans provided by Ricci in post #1. Feel free to use them as a base. These are meant to be used with Adam Hall 3402 and Neutrik NL4MPRXX, so you might want to adjust the respective pockets and cutouts. I did not yet include pockets/holes for wheels. 

SKRAM 3D.step Assembled enclosure

SKRAM PARALEL CAM.f3d - Fusion 360 File including programmed toolpaths.

12mm Sheet 1.step 12mm Bracings as optimized flatpack

18mm Sheet 1.step18mm Sheet 2.step18mm Sheet 3.step 18mm Parts as optimized flatpacks.

SKRAM Individual Parts.zipIndividual Parts 

👏👏👏👏👏 Great job! This will defo come handy when i will finally get to build my first pair.. hope i'll make it this summer.

Not a great fan of downsizing designs to fit different size drivers, i honestly have to say.. but anyway, if you really need to do it, i would rather change the volume of the enclosure by reducing the height (giving up the air in the top part in particular) and i tell you briefly why: reducing cab width would mean to change reflex width, therefore altering cab's tuning and low end performance. No point in building this specific cab at that point, it would sound quite different from what others have studied, designed, and tested. Same thing if we talk about cab depth/ port length.

In any case, remember this cab have been designed to hold inside a 21' woofer and tuned to the low freq IT would reproduce, so a 18' would probably have slightly less low end extension and other differences in parameters that you need to consider if your aim is to get as near as possible to the actual Skram's performance. 

Hello, i just need a tip from CVR amps users out there.. i know there is some here.

 I'm going to buy a pair of amplifiers, and i got whatsapp contact with Mila (seller) after i found the number on instagram.. idk it just feels a bit weird and unsafe as a method of purchase, and considering also the fact i tried to contact them twice at the email address on their website and had no answer, i just wanted to know if anyone have purchased his own amps with this method. 

Thanx!

Just in theese days i'm struggling with accepting the fact 21ds115 costs now more than 700€ .. in Italy where B&C produces it! This will be by far the most expensive build i've done.

👏👏👏 nice looking build! That amp module on the back definitely give it a pa style pro look! I would have just recessed it a bit from the back panel's surface, to avoid hits or scratches during load out or such things.. whatever, it's a really good job anyway!  What kind of paint did you use for the finish? 

Jay: so you will soon have 8 of these badboys, or are you planning to build more? How do you plan to you drive them?  ...also, for my setup, would you say one CVR D3302 with 4 Skrams (2 on each channel in 4ohm load) is a good working combo? 

2 hours ago, klipsch said:

I wish I had added some double sided work on the bottom panels for assembly to make clamping easier for those areas (the panels around the tuning ports). Everything else was fine for assembly. 

Good luck!

I'm a buy once, cry once type of individual - I'd go B&C or Eminence, unless you aren't the type of person that will wonder 'what if' by going with a "lesser" driver. 

I think i'm going to put dowels or maybe milled grooves to keep panels in place during the building process, i usually do that along with clamping and shooting nails. This will help a lot, also for the rest of bracing panels for the chamber (which i will probably make out of 15mm birchply, mostly cutouts i've got laying around from other builds)

I'm quite the same kind of person too, once i commit in a project i aim at best results, despite my modest means. I would probably choose B&C because it's one of the best and it's easily available in my country. I am curious though, about those italian designed/chinese manufactured speakers as more and more builders are finding them to be a valid choiche. 

Hi everyone! Thanks for this interesting thread, and thanks Josh Ricci for this brilliant design! I've red the thread multiple times last year and i'm reading most recent posts today. Now i'm actually looking forward to build my first pair of Skrams! 🥳

First of all, i would like to make a slight change in the port layout, using 2x18mm braces (instead of 3x12mm) to match the double braced horn mouth. On paper this should make no change in port tuning, as it would not alter the total port area.. it would obviously limit low tuning options (having one vent duct less to block) but it won't be a problem for me honestly.. i'd rather be more worried about having less bracing on the port, but in my experience 2x 18mm panels  should be enough to brace a 600mm surface.. never built a cab for a strong motor 21' driver though, so please feel free to give your opinion about any nasty consequences this mod could cause!

i'd like to use B&C 21DS115 8ohm, but i've also considered the SAN214.50 cause it is way cheaper and i've seen many are using it with good results.. no chance they would match B&C quality, but it seems they are worth their price.. 8ohm impedence would be my choiche anyway, as i plan to build two more subs in the future and run them parallel, 2 drivers on each channel of a 2ch amplifier. Amp will probably be a CVR D3302 which i've seen used succesfully by Jay (props for you mate, and congrats for your system development, you did a great job).

I already have some baltic birch ply and i'm lucky enough to have a friend who works as a full time carpenter and CNC operator. We both have some experience in speakerbuilding. We just have to find the time to draw the box on cad and make some long awaited sawdust.

If there's any advice you guys feel you can give me, i'm all ears! Cheers!