dreadknot55

ok 

10 hours ago, SME said:

No, but not because of the different impedances.  The biggest issue is that the high frequency section is a lot more efficient than the low frequency section and needs attenuation to play at the right level.  Another issue is that you really need a high low pass filter for the mid or else it will make a mess of your upper mid response.  And you probably want to cross closer to 1500 Hz.  More generally to get good sound quality you really need a crossover that's custom designed for the combination of drivers, which for your case is actually 3 different drivers.

In your first post, you said you'd designed custom crossovers, so I figured you had some experience with crossover design.  Your later responses indicate that the subject is quite new to you.  I'm not sure how interested or inclined you are to learn about crossover design.  It won't be easy unless you have a fair amount of skill with math and electric circuits as well as some basic acoustics knowledge.  If not, then you'll want to plan on investing a lot of time learning.  You'll also need to invest in a measurement system and learn how to use it.  Crossovers are even tougher for passive 3-way systems like you're planning and any situation in which the drivers are far off in level.  If you go this route, you'll have a much easier time if you have active DSP available so that you can experiment with different configurations without having to buy and swap out parts, but this means buying more amps and possible an external DSP unit if your amps don't have DSP functionality built-in.

Perhaps a better idea is to look for an existing design to build.   I'm sorry I can't offer much in the way of recommendation, especially given your limited budget and the fact that you've already committed to woofers.  I think you'll want to look at some other forums, like diyaudio.com (more music oriented) or the DIY section on avsforum.com (more home theater oriented).  Maybe you can find a design that incorporates the woofers you bought.  If not, you might look at 2-way designs and consider doing an active crossover to the woofers.  Alas, this also means buying more amps and possibly an external DSP.   

A third option is to not worry about sound quality and just build something, trying to learn as much as you can along the way.  The design you suggested (assuming the crossovers adequately protect the drivers) should certainly make soun, and quite a lot of it.  It probably won't sound good in the upper mids or treble.  A speaker with a single GRS planar radiator may sound a bit better but not great and probably won't play as loud either.  It might sound better than the Ciare CH201 you're looking at.  The problem with the CH201 apart from the steep drop above 10 kHz is the horn termination being too short, which messes up frequency response between 3-6 kHz.

Good luck, whatever you decide to do.

THANKS FOR ALL THAT 

3things

1. i didnt build the xovers i had them made by Bill Daniels at D+S TECH LABS 

as iv had a few some far made by him an they work fine

2.have you heard of or know if is www.audiovideoparts.com reputable to buy from

3. what do you think of the https://www.audiovideoparts.com/ecommerce/en/1725-ciare-ch250-bicono-250mm-150w-max-4i.html

Ciare  CH250
 

http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Ciare/CH250

the xover i had made has a attenuation down by -6db past 400hz

does anyone know if is www.audiovideoparts.com reputable

is this a good driver

https://www.audiovideoparts.com/ecommerce/en/1724-ciare-ch201-bicono-200mm-200w-max-4i.html

does anyone know if is www.audiovideoparts.com reputable

https://www.audiovideoparts.com/ecommerce/en/1724-ciare-ch201-bicono-200mm-200w-max-4i.html

is ther a equivalent to the Ciare CH252 for under 175$ that has near same fq response an same ohm an wattage

does anyone know were i can get the Ciare  CH252 any  legit website

with the B-C-10CXN64-8-10 could i wire in parallel to 4ohms with a added crossover on the hf termanils like the Dayton Audio 2k-HPF-8 High Pass Speaker Crossover 2,000 Hz 12 dB/Octave

or could i use a set of the  GRS PT5010-8 10"  with one front an one rear like deftechs dipole towers

what do you think about using  the PRV Audio 5MR450-NDY-4 5" Midrange Neodymium Woofer 4 Ohm as a mid to hhigh with notch filters at 5000 , 7000 , an 10000khz to control the fq spikes

 i like that B&C 10CXN64-8 10" for my mids to high but is ther any thing like it in a 4ohm 6in version under 200$

i would almost go for a pair of GRS PT5010-8 10" Planar Mid/Tweeter 8 Ohm stacked in a horizontal config on the front with a -6db notch filter at 8500khz to smooth out the spike but i dont know if anyone has tried that before

thanks , an as for the port on top is were id need it my ht room isnt very wide an with the sofa ther not a lot of rom on the sides to park subs an get by without wacking legs or feet in to one hence way the cab cons of tall an near flat the sofa demo pix with the subs with the driver aiming forward is just for show the planned layout is to have each on either of the sofa with the drivers aimed torwards the respective wall the idea is to bounce the lft effect of the ceiling a walls back to the center as both would be about 4ft away from the subs the wall 4ft from the driver an the ceiling 4ft from the port the cab builds are to be a foot thick so being on either side of the sofa is the ideal spot

in the past with a smaller sofa an some prefab cabs for an earler set of subs this was the sweet spot in the ht room 

thanks ,

i have no idea , though some reviewers from partsexpress told my when i asked a similar ? that with this drive comb-filtering, HF beaming, off-axis power response, would be a problem when the drivers that close but that farther apart i would

my primary resoune for picking the 4 fatial is the fq response an ohm the fq is smooth way out into the high with no bad spike an the ohm allows me to wire in parallel to 4ohms for the xover at 80watts to the high not to blow past the cone excursion limit

i do have as of 3days ago both the Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" 

fyi the xovers high are attenuated down by -4db

i would prefur to go with a singal 8in fullrange if i could find one with similar fq response an be 4ohm with a 100rms that was under 150$

with a Sensitivity 94dB an a (Xmax) of atleast 10mm

with a frd zma file for modeling
 

the crossover was built specifically for the stated drivers an the cabinet ft3 for the sub an rads the four full-range drivers will be in a sealed compartment  

a serious question my fronts are BIC Amercia Acoustech Platinum Series PL-89 tower speaker with 250 rms an a peak of 600watts at 8ohms

im currently driving by a crown xli 800 at 200watts at 8ohms per ch with the signal knobs at 70% an -7db per ch from my outlaw audio 976 balanced receiver connected via xlr

with the amp input Sensitivity set at 1.4

now some stuff sounds great some not no after a lot of adjusting an tuning of gains an eqs an etc i belive what i need is more power iv concidered using my xls 1502 to power my fronts with its 8ohm output at 300watts rms my qusetion is (is that safe 50watts over the pl-89s 250 rms in)

any thoughts on build concept such as driver alignment watt xover config , style or color

current concept config

is for this is a 300watt in at 4ohm for a 2way 3order butterworth at 400hz between a 

Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer wired to 2 ohms an fed 220watts at 2ohms from xover an 

four FaitalPRO 4FE35 4" Professional Full-Range Woofer 16 Ohm wired in parallel to 4ohms from xover at 80watts

in a 2cft cab with twin 10in Dayton Audio  RSS265-PR

with both tuned to 14.8hz with a 24hz highpass

just to clairify my custom xovers are built like this

300watt 4ohm in 

220watt at 2ohm to lows 80watts at 4ohms to highs

crossed at 400hz in 3rd order butterworth

cabs planed outer dims are 29in h by 11.25in w by 18in d

inner with driver displacement factored is 2cft at 15in d by 9.25in w by 27.25in t 

1 rad front bottom woofer middle front an back baffle 1.5in thich with half inch flush cut with 1in sides an 0.875in top an bottom

one rad aft bottom

                              custom wood an brick stand comprised of two layered mdf caps an three concret bricks each 33lbs at 4in by 8in by 16in

all colors as seen to be used

cab is to be made from layers of birch an mdf

driver choice wired to 2 ohms currently own (scar audio vxf 15in d4)

amp is crown xls 1502 775watts at 2ohms per ch

cab concept dims with driver at 4.5lt are to be 16in w by 26in h by 9in d = 2cft

outer 12in d by 22in w by 60in t

port lenght 86in l by 4in h by 9in d

with 6in flair

in winisd port m/s velosity

opt 1. without parometric eq at 25hz .q=1 by 6+db is 15.8m/s at 20hz

opt 2. with parometric eq at 25hz .q=1 by 6+db with 24 dB/octave (4th order)highpass at 16hz is 30m/s at 20hz

with opt 2 an the port size an length do you think id get port Chuffing