h3idrun

If you've got no woodworking skills this is a pretty ambitious project to start on, maybe make a book shelf or something first to get your head around using saw and router and clamps. Or even a work bench to then build your speakers on.

Did you measure the difference before/after? What changes did it make?

Yep on a 3.5kva portable generator. Still saving for the B&C drivers, the grey boxes have 4x Memphis Car Audio SR10 per box, and the reddish purple boxes have Dayton RSS460HO. Didnt get a chance to measure the response of the 2 different types but by ear they sounded surprisingly alike. The grey ones were on an EV Q1212 and the red ones on a Crest 2x1000 iirc.

Linked up with a friend from Melbourne for Burning Seed a few weeks ago and joined my 4 skrams with his 2 for the Sickest House sound camp. Took me a few days to get everything really dialed in but by the Saturday night it was really humming along with a big DnB session taking us right through to Sunday morning. Lots of compliments on the sound, and lots of learning on my part about getting things set up and dialed in more quickly in future.

It literally 2 comments above yours lol

I always forget how lucky we are here in Australia to have 240v as the default. Not that i'm using enough power yet to max out the power supply anyway

A few builds in here have done it I believe, I didnt bother as Peniku8 said it takes a real long time without a CNC and doesnt add that much extra strength if the rest is assembled properly. If you have a CNC and want the most epically perfect cabs possible then go for it, just add 6mm to the length of each panel and then cut the channels out 3mm on each side

Going back to the original question I believe it is possible to modify the Skrams for different drivers with acceptable results, obviously better drivers are better, but from what i have experienced with my crappy drivers 4x good quality 10s could sound amazing, and possibly have better power handling and heat dissipation than 1x beefy 21" It all depends on priorities, money, weight, transport space etc etc. I just used drivers I had already while still saving for the proper ones that I can swap in later on, if you have to buy all new stuff anyway then its probably wise to just go straight for the ones these boxes were designed for

The only reason I did it is because I already had the drivers, and don't yet have the money for the proper ones. However I am pleasantly surprised with the output compared to most other PA rigs i've heard. It depends on what you need them for, how loud it needs to be, how much power you have etc etc. Ive done 3 club shows and 7 outdoor shows that I never would have been able to do if I waited till i could afford the big drivers.

I have Memphis Car Audio SR10S8 in mine, they are just <$100 basic car subs that I had laying around so obviously have nowhere near the power handling or sensitivity of the proper PA drivers these are made for but the frequency response looks similar to other graphs in this thread Only modifications I made was omitting some bracing and cutting 4x 10" holes instead of 1x 21" hole. If you search my previous comments in this thread there's a bit more info

I have to disagree with the other guys, i've been running my skrams with 4x cheap 10" car audio drivers for a couple of years now and they still blow me away every time. Ive never heard proper skrams with the drivers they're designed for but i've been to a lot of big festivals over the last couple of months with everything from Martin W bins to old turbosounds to EV dual 18" reflex's and I was still pleasantly surprised dragging my 4x skrams out to an easter festival this weekend. Much lower, much cleaner, and simply amazing on DnB and other bass music, they lacked a bit of kick on techno and house music but that could be as much of a problem with my tops or tuning as it was the subs (4x martin W3s crossed at 80hz 24db LR) This weekend I was running the 4x subs from an EV Q1212 at 4ohm per channel crossed at 110hz/24db LR and doing between 100 and 110dbc at FOH and got many compliments for how clean and clear it was. Man the picture attachment on here is tiny, hopefully insta links work instead? https://www.instagram.com/p/CckocfHP946/ https://www.instagram.com/p/Cckoo-vALue/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CckowEzAL-U/

The problem is shipping, last time I looked at B&C drivers it was over $700 to get them from America, and not much less from Europe, I could get a whole extra driver for the price of shipping the SBA EDIT: Just double checked and getting 4x Neros from wagner is just over $3k Australian shipped, getting 4x SW152s from parts express is nearly $4k but im not sure if thats Aus dollars or USD, if the latter then its nearly $5500 which means i could almost buy 8 Neros for the same price

Hey everyone, Ive been delving into the various sound system related groups on Facebook again and a name that keeps coming up is SB Audience, their subs are pretty popular in the Paraflex circles and they look to be a lot easier and cheaper to get a hold of than any of the recommended drivers for the SKRAM here in Australia. Has anyone tried these in an SKRAM, specifically the Nero 21? https://www.wagneronline.com.au/sb-audience-nero-21-subwoofer-1100w/sb-audience-range/sb-acoustics/speaker-drivers/audio-speakers-pa/nero-21sw1100d-89890/1002180/pd/

I mostly play DnB and Dubstep on mine too and the Skrams really shine below 40hz where a lot of other systems lack for this music, did a few measurements of my system before our beach party last weekend. The measurements were in a 700m2 warehouse with 6m ceilings so the room noise shouldn't be too bad but i'm new to measuring stuff this big. Each cab was measured seperately 1m in front of the port for the subs, and 1m in front of the midbass for the tops (midbass and mid/high are amped seperately) I missed 1 of the tops for some reason. I think these graphs were psychoactive(sp?) smoothing whatever that means. After these measurements I bumped the gain on the highs up a notch to smooth it out but at the party I ended up bumping it back down to this level as it was a bit too sharp at war volume.

Lots more killer setups in here since my last visit! Ive now build my 4th, which is the wonkiest so far and somehow the port sizes on the 2nd pair ended up different to the first pair but its not bad enough to notice too much of an audible difference at a party. Also got access to a new warehouse to store them so I can finally play around with positioning and tuning and whatnot, this along with my new amps for the tops has taught me that I need at least 2 more haha. Next party will be at the beach in a couple of weeks, before a big one for new years which im very excited about.

Looks like a hell of a party! I still haven't got my 4th together yet but my next event is in just over a month so i've finally got a reason to do it. Been a terrible couple of years for the event industry and the future isn't looking bright for a while yet. Got some new amps for the top end that will hopefully be here by then as well, a couple of Powersoft M50Q which means il actually be able to lift my amp rack in and out of the venue finally (dropping nearly 60kg off the total rack weight)

JM living the dream ❤️ Cant wait to get mine back outside again, we are back to crazy restrictions in relation to entertainment events thanks to another covid outbreak, got 3 more parties booked this year but they keep getting pushed back until restrictions ease. On the plus side i should finally have a chance to build my 4th soon and do some comparisons with the Dayton 18s I bought

Good to see some more SKRAMs getting use at outdoor parties! I built my 3rd for a party at easter, still with the 4x 10" car audio drivers as I ran out of time for testing the Dayton 18"s i bought. Ran for 3 days with 4x Martin W3s for top end and everyone loved it, so many compliments on the sound all weekend! Will be building a 4th soon to finally test the 18"s so i'll keep everyone updated whenever that happens.

The B&Cs aren't too much more for the actual driver in AUD, its the shipping that's the killer, I can buy a whole extra Dayton for less than the price of shipping for 4x 21s of any kind that I've found so far. Whereas that store seems to already have Australian stock of the Daytons and shipping is basically free. @chrapladm me and a friend in Melbourne are planning to get 2 each and hoping to spend around $7-800 or less per driver including shipping. He's just finished his first cab, followed the plan a lot more closely than my first 2 so will be good to compare!

Still looking for something I can get to put in these for a reasonable price in Australia without $1000+ shipping, the best I've found so far is this: http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm?fbclid=IwAR1JAm7KnbBwCsonNZ9AorrNEzcOgoq7e0ZhdofCSj_un8zpBBL20hlqiqw Power handling is obviously a lot lower but I don't have that much power anyway, good sensitivity and a fairly low FS, is it even remotely suitable for bass music in an SKRAM? Nominal Diameter 18" Power Handling (RMS) 900 watts Power Handling (max) 1800 watts Impedance 4 ohms Sensitivity 93 dB @ 2.83V/1m Frequency Response 20 - 500 Hz Voice Coil Diameter 76.2 mm DC Resistance (Re) 3.2 ohms Voice Coil Inductance (Le) 2.24 mH @ 1 kHz Resonant Frequency (Fs) 18.8 Hz Mechanical Q (Qms) 4.05 Electromagnetic Q (Qes) 0.35 Total Q (Qts) 0.32 Diaphragm Mass Inc. Airload (Mms) 499g Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms) 0.14 mm/N Surface Area Of Cone (Sd) 1,164.0 cm² Volume of Displacement (Vd) 1,484.1 cm³ BL Product (BL) 23.4 Tm Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas) 272 liters Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax) 12.75 mm

Damn I wish it was that cheap here in Australia, an 8ft x 4ft sheet of 18mm BB is over $200 plus shipping for me.

I have a few Martin Audio W3 passive 15s that I could use if I want to go that loud. This system is aimed at smaller speakers, for quieter/closer listening with more emphasis on low end extension. I will experiment with larger folding baffles though, thanks!

This is pretty close to my findings too, I ran 80hz on bass music and 100hz on house/techno, I'll probably try 110hz next time for a little more punch. 12db LR for both, I haven't needed a high pass yet as I've running bugger all power so far.

In the video he said around $1000 canadian dollars

The 21DS115-4's would be ideal, but any of the other drivers that suit these would also work. I'm in Adelaide and have a friend in Melbourne building some of these also, the cheapest we can find so far is Parts Express ebay site