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About Arcsabre

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  1. Make sense to me actually my speakers Dynaudio C5 is designed in the way you described. Instead of using the conventional design which is the woofer in the middle of the cabinet, they had the woofer on top end of front baffle and they have one of the tightest and most accurate bass for that price. (although not much, as they are sealed and I put them away from the corner. they sound so bad when you put them in the corner) Perhaps I would put one driver on each end of the long box haha...
  2. Thanks mate, there's so much useful knowledge in your response...I need to spend more time considering every point you made. And my view is somehow similar to yours, only that the room does not allow me for such setup. Please see the attached picture. Meaning of different color: Yellow-Lights, irrelevant here. Blue-Absorption Purple-Diffusion DarkBlue-Bass Trap. the bottom of this plan is the french doors and that opens up throughout the whole wall (left wall to right wall all the way) thus subwoofers cannot be put there... After reading your response I do agree with you on the priority o
  3. What you said about the flat response is correct. If a speaker's in-room response is EQ'ed to be flat (or downward-flat) that literally means Direct Sound + all Reflection = fixed number across all frequencies, and since almost all speakers has non-linear off-axis SPL, trying to get flat in-room response like this would mean wobbly output across all frequencies. Of course this wouldn't sound good. In my layman's understanding the flat response and downward-flat in-room response thing simply means that's people's average preference, if there's a pair of speakers that performs consistently
  4. Like this - although ultimately I'm looking at building one with sloped front baffle. More like a trapezium or triangle, viewed from left and right side. indicative only - would need to develop internal bracing , stuffing .etc in the official design
  5. Hi I am just wondering if a sealed subwoofer box with a size of, say, 30cm x 30cm x 2 meters, is going to work out? this gives us around 6.35 ft³ of box size, which is ideal for some 15" drivers to have a Qtc of around 0.7, which seems to work out on paper. I am trying to build something that stays as close to the back wall as possible without having to knock a hole on the wall. With such proximity to the wall (thinking of it as a wedge against the backwall) the phase cancellation would not occur until goes up to above 200hz. way above the crossover point. This design would allow it
  6. If someone has tried this setup and found issue I might just go for a single 21" DIY sub in the middle of the backwall like something Ricci designed...
  7. That's right and I'm just more concerned about whether this setup is going to work similarly as the "front-wall-midpoint" and "back-wall-midpoint" dual sub method which has been proven to work well. I will run test with measurement mic and REW after installation but I probably have to fix them to their position once installed (especially the ceiling one). I am able to adjust the phase and EQ afterwards but not relocate them so just wanna see if there's any obvious issue that can only be solved by moving them to a different place.
  8. Hi all, I am currently designing a DIY subwoofer for a rectangular theatre room which is to be built and fixed to the floor and against the back wall. It will be located the midpoint on the virtual floorplan view.I've done some research and Floyd Toole's paper inspired me of a symmetric dual-sub setup, with Sub1 placed at the midpoint of the front wall, and Sub2 at the midpoint of the backwall. Both are sealed.However as the front wall of my theatre room is actually french doors I can't have Sub1 built the same way as Sub2. I have to tweak the idea slightly.I am now considering to build Sub1 a
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