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Rivilee last won the day on November 19 2021

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  1. Since there are so many drivers out of stock or prices getting out of hand the choices were pretty slim. And as a musician who's on the autistic spectrum working with HornResp, REW and OmniMic sets off the glazed eyes/drool factor pretty quickly. All that to say I have no idea if these are the best drivers but they sound good to me and seem to model okay. Cheap. GRS 12PT-8 12" and FaitalPro 10FE200 10" from Parts Express. Of course I'm in the states so no idea what's available down under. Somewhere I read that cheaper drivers are okay because of the horn loading. I think that 10" drivers are a good "sweet spot". They snug up to the CD well for slot placement above/around 1khz, slot size is reasonable for 10:1 compression and LF is more than adequate. (Sorry for the non-engineering terminology)
  2. Yes, a synergy type horn or for patent sake, a unity horn. I don't have a link to it because I didn't bother to make a build thread. It's my own mix of ideas based on Art Welter's SynTripP, B. Waslo's spreadsheet and the input of Chris A. on the Klipsch forum. I've built two cabs with 12" drivers and finishing up two more cabs with 10" drivers. I didn't port any of them. It seemed to me that 4 drivers would have enough clean output with moderate EQ without having to deal with ports. I'm very happy with the results. I'm using the Eminence TexTreme CD crossed around 850hz. It's certainly usable a little lower but to my ears it's a little less "honky" at high output.
  3. I just finished A/B'ing a Skram with a LaVoce and the Eminence. There is a slight difference in the sound quality to my ears but it could be just as much a placement issue as timbre. I didn't keep track of the cabinet placement when I swapped out drivers. That's how slight the difference is to me. I say go for it with the cheaper drivers. I also picked up some more plywood from my supplier (Nashville Plywood) yesterday. Supply is back on track and prices are down slightly. They were of the opinion that eventually the price will come down almost to where it was before all the crazy started. I like your setup. I just finished my version of a 4 12" driver MEH and I find myself just sitting in my shop listening. Going 2 way from the Skram to the MEHs.
  4. It will be tonight or maybe tomorrow before I can take some pictures. Yes, I'll be glad to sell without the driver. Since it's a new driver I'll subtract wholesale/shipping/tax cost. You're moderately close so I can deliver for cost of gas/food. It's not catalog perfect- it has the braces but I didn't do all the circle cutouts or place the braces in the exact precisely measured positions or put all the handles on it. If you need that I can build one in a week for you.
  5. Has the LaVoce driver and built with Baltic Birch as specified. Not CNC cut but I've built several hundred speaker cabs over the years so it's well built. Includes a castor plate. How about $1200 and I'll be glad to deliver for expenses. I'm in middle Tennessee. I'll be glad to build more (with permission from the designer) if you want them.😁
  6. Finished a Skram a couple of weeks ago and I love the sound. My wife even commented on how smooth it sounded. Completely outran my tops. I originally put a driver from zxpc in it since the LaVoce was out of stock. Pretty ugly. Anyway got the LaVoce in and this is what I measured quick and dirty. No reference as to SPL - I used the USB OmniMic but I was running a signal flat from computer to mixer to xover. I think I lowpassed it at 200hz; high pass was off. Actually, not sure where I lowpassed it... somewhere above 100 hz. Also, I'm between jobs and would love to sell this to someone. Guess I should post it in the for sale section.
  7. I'll throw my 2 cents in. You want stealth. Your wife likes low end but thinks that means louder. You haven't heard many different subs. Your current one is a 100 watt 12" ported. Have you used your mic with the receiver to get an idea of SPL you're aiming for? If you're not sure of the setup sometimes it's easy to just buy a cheap SPL meter and walk around the room to get an idea of how loud you want it. If you're only playing 85db you don't need much... Easy end of the scale (that will out play a 100 watt 12" ported) is flat pack from Parts Express with one of the Ultimax drivers. Or the Marty subs. If you want to buy the cheapest already made try an open box Monolith sub from Monoprice. They've got great reviews and specs. Personally, I'd be tempted to put a tall (vertical) tapped horn behind the T.V. Or a skinny side firing tapped horn behind the plant in the picture labeled "Only solid wall"
  8. Interesting. I'm not finding that horn anywhere. Closest I've found is the K402 with 2 15" drivers in a synergy setup. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161404-a-k-402-based-full-range-multiple-entry-horn/ https://www.stereo.net.au/forums/topic/232459-klipsch-k402-replica-build/
  9. Thanks! I've read most of your threads through the years... in fact I have the AVS tutorial pulled up now. I hear you on the 12s. For me sometimes the smaller drivers impress me more. I built your Anarchy about a month ago with the Apex driver and I love it. Since we don't run super loud bass in media room (we foster parent little kids) I pulled my bigger sub out and replaced it with the Anarchy. Nice. I remember delivering some top boxes to a guy in Huntsville and he demo'd a pair of (...)wreckers that he had with Alpine drivers. Pretty impressive. I'll check out your suggestions. I don't look forward to building 12 THTLPs with all those panels....
  10. Later today/tonight I'm gonna mess around with Hornresp to see if I can come up with a single fold something with the mouth on the side. To see if I could shoehorn a 15" driver in. Part of the issue is the mouth area would be best if I could cover it with an air return vent of "normal" size. 14" x ?" (whatever he thinks he could get away with WAF) I'm also itching to build a Skram with the Lavoce driver... It looks good....
  11. Ricci, it was a looong time ago. Back in the 80's. We were a band out of Nashville called Nobody's Business. A horn band like Chicago, Blood Sweat & Tears.. lilmike, one of your designs might work and a single fold may also work. He likes the sound of horns. He has about 14.5" between joists. He's measuring again for depth and length. The picture he sent looks like about 8' by 2' or 3' off the ground. He's used to loud and low (ten dual Lab 12 BFM T60's in one room) in his club on the strip at University of Alabama. But we're limited to a 12" driver unless there's something that would fit sideways. Extension? Usable to 20ish would be nice - since this has to meet WAF I'm not sure of tradeoff between loud and low. How about 25hz with a 12" driver SPL.
  12. I remember seeing a picture of that. Funny thing with this guy... I've already built 14 subs for him. ...they were for a nice club he owns. 10 dual loaded BFM T60s, 2 dual 18's I designed for him and I convinced him to try out 2 Othorns. These are for different rooms in his house he's building. Yes, he likes bass but he wants horn loaded. IB would be easier but that's not what he wants.
  13. By the way I used to be in a band many moons ago that played Louisville often. We loved playing City Lights and Phoenix Hill Tavern.
  14. Hi, First time posting on here even though I've built a couple of Othorns, etc. Also one of the builders listed over on BFM... Anyway, any ideas on a sub to fit between joists? Depth and length are not an issue. Looking for loud and low. He needs twelve of them for his new house... I thought maybe something with a mouth extension. Of course BFM has an FLH that I could make fit but I would be limited to a 12" driver and I like the idea of a TH for the simpler build.
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