chrapladm

Not sure what it is for everyone else but I just got a quote back on the 21DS115 price vs the 21IPAL and the DS is about half the price. SO something like 550 720 and then 1100 roughly for DS, SW152 and then IPAL. And these are all prices for me to my door. So for me these are great prices. I will have a single Skhorn with SW152's in about a month. SO hopefully by then I will get to see what the limits are with Ricci's setup. And while the IPAL's look great I wish the 4ohm was an option. Oh well.

The street price for me on the SW152 went up but 30%. SO I am interested in seeing what these drivers will be in about 6 months. BUT after simulating the 2ohm SW152 Bennet posted I am also curious about that model. It does very similar numbers to the IPAL but needs less watts to hit that spl. While it may not be an option because of the 50 piece batch minimum it still looks great in sims. UH21v1 looks great also but needs a Fp14K to hit 3/4 Xmax. AND it does cost a lot more money. 2ohm has a 25hz 4th Hpass and 120hz 4th Lpass. 9000watts IPAL has a 26hz 4th Hpass and 120hz 4th Lpass. 11000watts UH21v1 needs 14000 to hit 26mm for around the same SPL also. So the BC drivers look to be a better match sensitivity wise.

Thanks Ricci. I only asked about the protection because I wondered what everyone else uses when moving things around a lot. I have never done pro audio but others like yourself might know what works and what is a waste. I remember you telling us about the 21ID speaker before when comparing it to the IPAL. Amazingly enough the IPAL price for me has come down a bit. Not a huge difference but enough. The 18IPAL went from 989 to 670 for me. Not saying I will be using IPAL at all but I was happy to see pricing getting cheaper. Making a 4ohm 50 batch would be nice. Although I dont know if there are enough of us to cover 50. I order through my local dealer and get thing sea freighted for free. So not sure if I ever could be a part of the deal. Its a nice thought either way.

I definitely like the IPAL drivers specs better than the 18 Sound drivers. If I could buy a M drive module I would try it but I will have to stick with the lesser expensive SP plate amps. AND for my build I will make two hatch covers. One with the plate amp and one without. Most likely I would never use the hatches without the plate amp but if I feel like pushing the limits with the higher tune I can use a bigger amp with just speakons on the other hatch. If moving these cabinets around a lot does anyone use corner protectors? I know Duratex is great but was curious for those that move large cabinets around a LOT. Just want to be able to beat on the exterior for a while. My cabinet probably wont move very much if any at all but I like to plan for roadies handling or UPS handling. lol Thanks

Not sure why my post got deleted by my browser. I forgot about the HR input picture from the first post. I will be building the Skhorn with a pair of 21SW152's. I unfortunately have to wait for BC to build the second 21 in Feb. So that will be another 1.5 months until I get the speaker in hand. I will be using Penn Elcom handles for my build and possibly the SP4000 plate amp. I will be amp limited but I cant afford the SP6000 plate amp for another 300. This amp will already be pushing my budget but I would like to try the SP amps. If I need more SPL I will just build another cabinet.

Since I dont have the input screen for HR on this sub what wattage/voltage should I aim for per 21"? I was looking at getting a clone amp but for around the same price I could get the SP plate amp. Not sure if the 4000 would be enough but amp limited isnt a bad thing. I cant afford the SP12000 and the other option is the FP14 clone. I am still hesitant on the clone. It would be more than enough I am sure but I am trying to finally get my very first SP amp.

Wanted to ask is the DXF file that Ricci has made the file you are using with your CNC? I was going to ask a local place how much it would cost to CNC a single cabinet for me if I provide the plywood. Just want to make sure I know what I am getting if they do the job though. If it is exactly what you made then I need to buy handles to complete the build. I forgot I have Draft Sight on my computer. SO I looked at the file. Is it hard to change the file to fit on 4 x 8 sheets instead of 5 x 5? I cant afford the expensive plywood so I will be going with the cheapest I can find in 4 x 8ft sheets.

How much do you recess the panels? 3/4"? Just curious. Love the ease of the build with panels slotting in. Well at least thats my thinking.

No problem. I know most are busy around this time so when you can get to me that would be great.

That has always been my want. I looked at buying his single 4000 plate amp and that could power the pair of TH clones just fine. But I would still need another amp. An SP12 would be perfect I guess but I just dont have those kind of funds. We will see how I go with my clone subs first and then see how much I can afford for another amp.

I figured I could buy a clone and use one channel per cabinet. So for my situation a clone could power the Skorn on one channel and power the pair of TH50 clones on the other channel. Although a 10Q would probably be better for power options I am sticking with whats been working for the masses. I trust a clone over an Inuke anyways. I think each clone TH needed about 700watts to hit Xmax. This is using a BC 18SW115. My Crest 7200 can power that for now but I definitely need to upgrade my amp for 21's. Without even looking I figured I would need about 3000 watts or more for the Skhorn and be just fine. Probably use my Motu Ultralite MK3 for Hpass. Just need to figure out how to route everything. Sent you an email Ricci.

LOL, I see the model number was changed. I tried finding the RW and could not. The RBX model is about the same price for me as the TBW so either is a good option for me. I just have to wait a few more weeks to get my parts for my mains. Then I can start building. Then hopefully will get started on the Skhorn build next. Will also have to see how much voltage I need to hit Xmax with this setup. Might have to look at buying a 14K clone until I can afford a SP12.

I will have to have a look at the new RW100

I must have forgot about this thread altogether. I think for a alternative driver that is very budget friendly the BC 18TBW100 is the best value. I like how the 18SW115 sims better for my simulations though. I have a pair of the SW115's on there way now for my TH50 clones. I still have my SW152 sitting in the shed waiting for whatever project to start. Have you tested this sub yet? I am curious how it performs with the different tunings. I will have to compare how this does verse my pair of 18SW115 TH50 clones. I imagine it will do great for its BW and may come close to my TH50's on the lower registers. Maybe not will have to look. Can I get the plans for this Ricci? Should I just send an email to you?

Or maybe just buy another amp or a bigger amp. My fans in my Crest arent as good as the Noctua's but I cant say I have ever pushed my amp hard enough to worry. I will in the future be using the Noctua fans for any other amp mods although I plan on just saving my coins and buying three SP amps. Two four channel amps and one sub amp. I cant keep up with the Jones's so eight amplifier channels will be good for any of my crazy ideas.

Movies wouldnt do it but definitely music hence the law. Also 125db 25-80hz, to me, is loud but nothing I feel I need hearing protection for. If it were mains then yes.

So your saying that Denver has a new law stating that the volume can only be 105db at the FOH console or stage? Because I know that most places aim for about 105db at the FOH console which is anywhere from 100ft to 1000ft or more away. So 105db of bass can mean a huge difference depending were it is measured from. PLUS outdoors and knowing BN he usually has quite the bass setup.

So when you say you turned them upside down, are you saying the horn mouth is/was closer to the ceiling now? Also what ever happened to your monster horn design? Did you ever build one for concept/prototype or no?

Do you have any pictures of flipping your speakers?

Dangit I wish I had the funds for these Kyle. Would love to have a pair of these. I was hoping to own a pair of these in the future. Seems like a perfect driver for my own personal wants. I hope you sell them but I am also hoping you have a pair of them down the road still.

Look's pretty good to me.

How did you like the BC218? Always thought about building one large sub for fun in my garage. Then have it on casters and roll it out when wanting to wake up the neighborhood. LOL. Also looked like it may go low enough for me to be used as a cinema sub for me outdoors also. Havent gotten a chance to hear one but love the specs. Even if they may be inflated.

Yes that would be eight Ipal's and what ever for amps. EXPENSIVE. LOL An Ipal cost me about 1150 each and 152 $700. SO for now I just try and design for both drivers to work in the same design. But unfortunately for me wood is the most costly thing here. Wood sheets cost about 100 per sheet or more. So thats why I have never gotten started on any of my larger horn designs yet. I do find it fascinating that your design has very similar SPL as mine. I was hoping for 140db out of one driver using the IPAL but the downside is you need a monster amp to power this driver. SO no go yet.

Single dual driver or single with one driver? 2pi? Funny because I had done the very same thing with my dual driver and single driver designs. IPAL was a monster but 152 still looked great also in the same cabinet. SW152 could use a smaller mouth while the IPAL looked better with a larger mouth. I think I was also some where around a similar SPL. Figured I would build a single dual driver FLH or Hyrbid design. This would just be for outdoors and just creating something plain crazy. Hybrid needed much less wattage per driver than the FLH. Hybrid being a FLH with a ported rear chamber. BUT anyways I look forward to hearing more about your design.

Hmmm this design sounds familiar with the Ipal's. Must be the going thing lately.