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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/20/2021 in all areas

  1. Skhorns in Norway...Nice. Thanks for the video link. I would use the Eminence or the 21DS115 as alternatives to the 21Ipal in this cab.
    2 points
  2. Don't know if this video (in Norwegian) has been shared already - I presume not due to the different-language "barrier" - but it shows what can only be the Skhorn with IPAL drivers at some Norwegian fella who specializes in building (and buying) horns speakers, big subs and the likes. He describes the Skhorn sound as (freely translated) "effortless, dynamic and airy." Attributes any serious (true) audiophile should aspire to from subs, I gather, but in reality few would ever get to experience their sound for, well.. obvious reasons when speaking of audiophiles in general. I take it the Skhorn is designed with the B&C 21SW152 and/or its IPAL sibling in mind?
    1 point
  3. I'd say you have a pretty good overview already. I have 4 21ds115, but if you want some 1-2db more headroom, go for the Eminence. Your call if you wanna spend the extra on that. For me (in Germany), the Eminence is twice the price than the 21ds115. It's actually almost the same price than the 21IPAL here. In the states it's more like 500 vs 700$ between LaVoce and Eminence I think. I'd personally go for the latter there.
    1 point
  4. Graph above shows THD at various voltages. Starting level = 2.83 volts Ending level = 22.5 volts
    1 point
  5. I do like the 402 a lot. They aren't cheap if buying new. Mine were 2nd hand and have some wear and tear. Still expensive. Think it was about $1200 for the pair after shipping from Cali. Doesn't bother me because they are in an ugly warehouse room anyway. Sounds better to me than the 2360A's. The 2360A's do load the low end better / deeper.
    1 point
  6. Yes I've been running these on K-402's for a couple of years. I have a ton of measurements that I planned to post but never got around to. Eventually. Long story short...None of the CD's really want to be playing down that low. They may claim 500Hz but even on a very large horn that loads decently they get nasty with any real volume. The 2050's are better than any others I'm aware of. I settled on a 370Hz Xo with mine. The distortion rises precipitously below 350Hz. They may be fine down to 300Hz in a home with 0.25 volt drive levels, but for any real use with loud playback I'd recommend no lower than 370Hz with a 3rd order filter and that's on a BIG horn like a 402 or a 2360A. For work in a pro setting in a huge venue I'd consider 500Hz the minimum with 600Hz being better/safer. None of the other CD's on the market (Except for some of the exotic dual diaphragm mid units) want anything to do with that low of a crossover in a pro use scenario, no matter what the spec sheet says. If your use is at home with flea powered amps and much more subdued playback levels you can get away with a much lower Xo. The Axi2050 provides roughly a half octave better low end extension and lower distortion when driven that low than most 4" vc 2" cd's. The top end is decent but they weren't able to totally defeat physics. Smaller, lighter diaphragm CD's will have better sensitivity, distortion and output >10kHz. The 2050 sounds fine up there but it does give up something. That's the tradeoff. I'm far more concerned with SQ in the 400-10Khz area than I am with >10kHz so it works for me. Sounds killer in the midrange. I put 22.5 volts through them during distortion testing. Wore ear plugs and shooting muffs. I am not in a hurry to do that again. It's weird when you can sense/feel the pressure from treble!
    1 point
  7. Outer dimensions are 43x58x65,5cm so ~164L. I think I could have lowered the net volume (~90-95L, B&C suggest 80L), also at the cornes I loose a little volume, but as mentioned, the limiting factor was the port lenght and to fit it inside the cab without to bend it while letting the front big enough for driver and vent flares. Some other facts about the cab: The "main" front is 30mm, plus 15mm added under the driver cutout to have enough depth for the 40mm Flare, and another 15mm at the backside of the front, as reinforcement for the driver (30mm-20mm would have left just 10mm for screws) and as pipe-holder. (this one was meant to be 12mm, I just didn´t think about it and used 15mm instead). So at the thickest part, the finished front is 60mm or 2,36" thick, yet it wasn´t that heavy, obiusely because the front is mainly just three holes rather than remained material. All the other parts were made of 15mm MPX, but as you can see, i didn´t skimp on brazings, so the cab should still be pretty stiff.... I hadn´t time to put it on a scale yet, and this one isn´t a lightweight for sure, but at least, a single person is able to lift it up and put it on a wheel board. I will post measurements as soon as i have time to make some. The ones I did to test tuning frequency were really dirty (no fix mesaurement distances and even bader, a back panel that was hold together with clamps, as I had to be able to remove the pipes through it to make them shorter). Actually, I always made a ~2m ground plane measurement and another one at the outlet of the port. With the second one it was pretty easy to determine a tuning frequency, although I have no idea how close this one comes to an impedance measurement. Honestly, I don´t even know why it´s important to know the exact tuning, or how I can find the optimum, but the measurements showed some dB more around 40Hz with the shorter port, still there was enough low end in the listening test. The great thing is that the ports are so big, that it should be ok to close one of them for small gigs or a home theatre show at home, tuning drops down to ~25Hz with one port closed.
    1 point
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