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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/02/2020 in Posts

  1. 6 points
  2. Blowing out the cobwebs today
    6 points
  3. Hi everyone! I'm new to this forum, after beeng very active on different forums here in Norway. Over the years I've built and restored about 200 different cabinets for speakers in my small workshop, and my latest one is the Skhorn. I've also built six Othorns, but these Skhorns are among the largest cabinets I have done. I built three, two for a customer and one for myself. All the parts are cnc'd out of 18 and12mm BB at a friends workshop. I think the build was relative easy compared to the Othorn. I'm going to use the Ipal driver, and will start testing tomorrow with a Crown Itech 6000 amp. I'm looking forward to that!
    5 points
  4. Sorry, not very descriptive in my post lol. We had 5 Skram's out under my Danley Sh-46 for 3 days this weekend, sadly I have a driver stuck in customs so the 6th Skram stayed at home. First time feeling like I had abundant power and amplification to really see what everything could do, used 3x CVR 3002 on subs, 1 skram per channel and 2x Crest Prolite 7.5 bi-amping the Danley's. Really happy how everything's come together, ran flawless all weekend and sounded fantastic with tons of headroom.
    4 points
  5. No offense to RF as they do have some sharp guys but the whole, driver optimized for sealed / vented / BP and don't use it in another alignment, is for the most part antiquated thinking from back before modern signal processing. There are drivers that are better suited to some jobs than others make no mistake, but this is not one of those. Usually the reason you will hear that drivers are not suited for sealed is the qts is too low (IOW too efficient) and without EQ it will be bass shy because the top end gains sensitivity quickly and overpowers the low end without EQ. In this case RF is assuming that these drivers are going to be used for car audio SPL comps and the like and ported will be way louder than sealed and will also handle high power inputs longer. I can see why they would recommend this for their statement competition driver but if the app is not putting up big scores in a Tahoe it's one of the top high power sealed drivers available. It's 2020 and unequalized frequency response is much less of a priority than it was 30 years ago.
    4 points
  6. Had a pretty good outing this past weekend with our 4 Skrams and 2 Keystone subs for a 400 person event! Skrams are running off a Linea research 44m20. Tops are a pair of PM90 mid-highs which we just completed and powered by custom Hypex amps with a Linea Research ASC48 for sound processing . Was extremely limited on speaker placement because of the low tents and would have liked to run the Skrams on their sides or separated them slightly to spread out the coverage. Once we retire the keystones I think we may need to build another 2-4 Skrams to keep up with the Midhighs for bass heavy music but really impressed with the output overall! Got a lot of good feedback regarding the sound and people really appreciate the change from the usual PK cx800 double 18 subs that have over-saturated the market on the BC west coast.
    3 points
  7. Being a dual SKRAM owner and using the B&C 21SW152 for the last 1.5 years in this setup, I agree with Jay's description of how they sound. They are simply too brutish and over excited the room even at lower volumes. - This is in my 2 car garage/workshop. They are War Machines, these things kick ass and people take notice immediately. When paired with the right tops, like the Danleys or Meyers in my case, you're going to rock the house. If I was to build a system for in my house, I'd go with the BC 18SW152 in a dual setup or something much much lighter. The 21's are just too much and there sound doesn't really fit properly in a small space. (Coming from a Strictly Bass Head Opinion and not a home theater guy opinion...yet) Tops usually are not pointed so far down, was in backyard
    3 points
  8. Have a bit of an interesting field use report for my Skrams. I recently added new processing to my system using an XTA DPA 100. It’s a pretty interesting 4 channel amp, which I am using to bi-amp my Danley sh46 cabs. It also featured 4 channels of output control to add processing to my slave sub amplifiers. I used the information within this XTA/MC2 document on limiters to set up protection on my sub amps. https://audiocore.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/XTA-Application-Note-DPA-Amps-Limiter-Settings.doc.pdf using the chart within this document it says to set up the 21sw152 at 86.9 volts for limiting, minus 1db for safety margin. Having always been a little hesitant on knowing just how hard I can safely drive my Skrams I added a 2 wire thermocoupler temperature sensing system to 1 of the cabinets to monitor magnet temperature. 1 wire is mounted on the external circumference of the magnet, the other right next to the vent on the end of the magnet body. last night I provided sound for a local dubstep crew, 7 hours of continuous deep sine wave bass. Peak volume was held for about the 3 final hours of the night, at maximum I was running about 2db down from where limiting would engage. Monitoring throughout the night, magnet temperature peaked at 44 degrees Celsius. This was also in a packed sweaty room that was raining condensation from the roof. pretty interesting to get some real Information about what the drivers are doing deep within the skram cabinets under real world conditions. I had previously come across a statement from Bennet Prescott who works with B&C saying that the 21sw152 can sustain 100 degrees magnet temperature without thermally damaging the coil. Previously I had been limiting these drivers to around 50 volts, it seems that in the Skram alignment we should be able to safely push them beyond that a bit without getting too much temperature build up. This of course may change for other types of music, I will continue to report back when I can speak to temps I’m seeing when doing other types of music shows. Data is beautiful. Always a pleasure getting to flex these cabinets, in a town where double 18’s rule, the Skrams are raisins eyebrows and making lots of new fans.
    3 points
  9. I was running about 20% down from where the start of the limiters would engage during the headliner slot, so yeah lots of headroom remaining. I feel like I’ve had some breakthroughs this summer with tuning, I can get things sounding real full and impactful without it ever feeling tiring or abrasive, it’s a real pleasure to listen to. Open invite dude, I’m a big fan of alien technology, let’s set up a play date another clip recorded from the mezzanine upstairs, notice the bass warping the video recording…. Some serious pressure going down https://youtu.be/_Y7Y0FqIJfw
    3 points
  10. 2 of each. Osborn Point out in the Cascades (Washington). Getting out there on the forest service roads is a bit of a challenge, especially with a ton of gear, but the vantage is amazing and you can make as much noise as you like way up there. 21DS115-4 in the Skrams. Keystones are loaded with some spare OEM ceramic, stamped basket 18s from a friend at a local, well known audio manufacturer. They're no B&Cs but they sim nicely and have stood up to some abuse that is frankly well past the specs I was given for them. They've got a good motor and great excursion capability. I think the excellent driver cooling of the Keystone design helps them stand up to the abuse.
    3 points
  11. We finally "finished" our two skrams, at least so far, that we could fire them up for the first time, last weekend. Together with our self designd Top (AMT + double 12" in CB, also just "finished") this was one of the most stunningly setups I´ve ever heard. The skrams made the perfect underline for the Tops, wich were designed to produce the cleanest sound possible. It´s absolutely crazy what output just 2 Skeams have, while the Ipals arent´t even moving. Looking forward to build 2 more of them (but the next will be made of the good old BB and be Paintet with duratex. No fancy carbon enhanced popplar plates, epoxy logos or acryll glass front) -Josh, you are my bass-hero
    3 points
  12. Some carpentry sins have been committed due to time constraints and lack of both quality tools and experience, but nothing I don't expect PL and Bondo to hide. It's an intimidating build to do by hand, mostly due to the bracing, but I wanted to do it "right" and I expect the cabinet is going to be stiff as hell. Got some 21DS115-4s on deck and if all goes well they'll be at full flex at an event last weekend in June.
    3 points
  13. I finished a 6Ch amp build made from two Hypex FA123 yesterday. It's a lab amp for speaker testing, so it has all connections on the front. It's not the prettiest and already has a bunch of scratches, but hey, at least it's got cable management..!
    3 points
  14. I don't know if you saw my skram built on page 26 or so, I built 2 of them, made of popplar plywood with a carbon-epoxy layer around to make it stiffer. Then we made the front out of 25mm transparent acryl glass, just to loose the weight savings due to the 10kg (just a wild gues, I forgott the real numbers) of those fronts haha. We didn't put them on a weighting scale yet, but without the heavy front, they would be ridiculously light! So light that we will make a base filled with sand to make sure they dont move more than the drivers do. We also didn't fire them up, but that will happen soon, hopefully... so I cannot say anything about the stiffness and if there is anything hearable compared to our baltic birch skram, but I will male a post as soon as that happened. We will make 2 more of them, without acryl glass front, because we have the materials, but I also have to say that it is a hack of work to prepare all the plates, and also, it is really expensive of course, so i dont think that we will do this again after those next two.
    3 points
  15. Ok. I had a look in HR. It had been awhile. I'd recommend a 3rd order BW at 24Hz or a 4th order LR HPF at 21Hz. This is for operation with all vents open. 4th order LPF adjusted to taste for blending with the mains. Somewhere between 50-120Hz. 70-100Hz is probably what would work for most. The response looks quite good with just the high and low pass added. This is the response with the 21SW152-4. Most of the other recommended drivers are going to be close to this as well. If you want to take it a bit further You can add a single band of PEQ at about 195Hz to beat down the first out of band response spike. This would be best if measured and tweaked accordingly but as a start these specs are probably close enough for gov't work. This would be the final with the HP, LP and single band of cut EQ up top.
    3 points
  16. Hey guys. While not as rigorous as the excellent testing in this thread I put together a little vid doing some light testing and listening comparisons between the chinese CVR branded 3002 amplifier up against a Powersoft K-10. Might be a good option for people looking for some decent performance at a good price point. Maybe you will find it interesting. Ill have this set up for a couple more days so if you're quick and send me a request for ideas for further testing I can try to accommodate
    3 points
  17. Had my next party on Sunday on the beach with my 2x skrams and 2x Martin W3 tops running from an inverter in my Prius from 2pm till nearly 2am, averaged around 1000w into the whole system (including the CDJs and amps and a few LED lights) and used about 5L of fuel in the car. Around 150 people at the peak of the dancefloor, everyone seemed to love it! Definitely need to build 2 more of these things and upgrade to the proper drivers for even better sensitivity to keep up with the tops
    3 points
  18. The ds and sw are very similar in maximum output at their respective program powers. Bennett from B&C said you should only really use the sw if you need the higher power handling, otherwise it doesn't really matter which you pick so you should go for the cheaper one. Here is a hornresp of different drivers I've compared in the SKhorn
    2 points
  19. Yes, a synergy type horn or for patent sake, a unity horn. I don't have a link to it because I didn't bother to make a build thread. It's my own mix of ideas based on Art Welter's SynTripP, B. Waslo's spreadsheet and the input of Chris A. on the Klipsch forum. I've built two cabs with 12" drivers and finishing up two more cabs with 10" drivers. I didn't port any of them. It seemed to me that 4 drivers would have enough clean output with moderate EQ without having to deal with ports. I'm very happy with the results. I'm using the Eminence TexTreme CD crossed around 850hz. It's certainly usable a little lower but to my ears it's a little less "honky" at high output.
    2 points
  20. Skhorns in Norway...Nice. Thanks for the video link. I would use the Eminence or the 21DS115 as alternatives to the 21Ipal in this cab.
    2 points
  21. I've finally built my first self- designed subwoofer. I decided to go for the 15DS115, ~90L net Volume and big ports with 3D adapted flares. The difficult part was actually to make the front small enough that the ports fit within the depth of the speaker, while trying to get as much flare area as possible. A simple 40mm flare radius would have made the front much larger. Tuning was more or less a blind shot. The vents were removable and I tryed 3 different lenghts before they and the back panel were glued. As I ran out of time, I measured just some short sweeps in REW, trying to tell the tuning frequency from the SPL and phase graph and then cut some cm off the vent pipe Tuning should be somewhere at 38 Hz now, but that's just what I can tell from the Rew measurements. I put more than 90 hours into the design, but therefore it is a n enjoyment to put all the parts together and see how perfectly all of it fits. I havn't really tested them to their limit, they are way to overpowered as monitor subwoofer, but I'm looking forward to hear and mwasure what they are capable of. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/frit8jmum8ptds3/AADfJ97ODnKO5Y4Gz1iBtawva?dl=0
    2 points
  22. Sed, Winisd isn't very accurate. It doesn't include inductance effects for subwoofers. It also doesn't include baffle and directivity effects. Sealed cabs are very easy. There really is no tuning. Put it in a 23x23x23 cube and power with a big amp. It is very hard to damage this driver. Look at the testing done here on the systems page. Note the voltage used for the maximum level output sweep. Pick an amp that can provide this voltage or under. Done.
    2 points
  23. This is the whole rig for now, I don’t think I’ll be adding anything more until we see what the future looks like…. Fucking covid. It’s perfectly balanced as is, I’d need more danley’s to keep up to more Skrams so the next leap would be expensive Haha. first time running it in a block like this, we melted some faces off, bass for days holy shit https://youtu.be/Bp4opVAjbZ4
    2 points
  24. Yeah it's heading back toward lockdown quickly here. I've already had a tour (performing not doing sound) canceled and a few spot dates with other bands that are likely to be canceled. Tour was billed right when things opened back up and reversed direction almost immediately. I've got a lot of friends who work as stage hands, or sound engineers and it's been devastating for them. It's a tough time to be a performing artist, bar or sound provider. Hell any type of person who makes a living from public gatherings.
    2 points
  25. Gig report- very impressed. I didn't have time to do proper measurements/EQ with a mic so I fiddled around in hornrep ahead of time to get a phase match with the keystones. Landed on delaying the Keystones 5.8ms with a phase invert. Based on the rich sound, coverage, and amp levels vs output, I think that must have been reasonably close. We had some issues maintaining voltage with the cable runs and generator capacity, and I was quite conservative running the NX6000 into them since I haven't set up proper limiting, but it was more than enough to prove these cabs are quite capable. Got the same excited feeling of bringing the system up to a brand new level as when I put together the Keystones. Of course, now I've got the itch to pair them with a Powersoft amp...
    2 points
  26. Thank you guy's for the awesome inputs, my apologies for the late reply. Much appreciated for side by side comparison of the ipal and nsw Ricci. Although the NSW offers the best bang for the buck, I might try an external series ipal setup, albeit with some thick ass wires. 6 is kinda pushing it for that amp, even with the 152s...specially if I want the damping factor to remain high Been keeping this box on the dl but it's basically similar to the th18 but slightly modified for 21'' woofers, code named the hornicator, I haven't done any measurements on it yet but it sounds hella good and moves some serious air with the 152 and my buddies crappy Inuke, but giving the mouth and 24ft cubic size, I think the nsw or ipal would destroy in this enclosure...weight? Heavy
    2 points
  27. My recommended driver for these is the Eminence NSW6021-6.
    2 points
  28. Finally got time to spraypaint my one remaining SKhorn today. I used Warnex paint and an inexpensive HVLP spray gun. After to layers it lookes pretty ok I guess. Tomorrow I will turn it over and finish the cabinet. After this and finishing the build, I will also glue some acoustic foam in the back chambers, as Ricci suggested.
    2 points
  29. The B&Cs aren't too much more for the actual driver in AUD, its the shipping that's the killer, I can buy a whole extra Dayton for less than the price of shipping for 4x 21s of any kind that I've found so far. Whereas that store seems to already have Australian stock of the Daytons and shipping is basically free. @chrapladm me and a friend in Melbourne are planning to get 2 each and hoping to spend around $7-800 or less per driver including shipping. He's just finished his first cab, followed the plan a lot more closely than my first 2 so will be good to compare!
    2 points
  30. Moving up and down stairs to roundover, sand, fill any tear out, sand and paint was a bit of a chore, requiring assistance of a hand cart, ratchet straps and a strong volunteer. Also, the number of good weather days were limited, coupled with working away from home a lot meant that I could not spend as much time working on these as I would have liked at a time. Second one is partially assembled.
    2 points
  31. I've noticed something very interesting I wouldn't have believed was true when experimenting with my Hypex amps yesterday. These amps needed to be "broken in" with a high level signal or they'll run at unusually high distortion. Sounds like snake oil to me, but heres what I've seen from the data: General info: -Sweep of the audio interface max 0.005% THD 100Hz-24khz (sweep went to 48khz) -THD somehow off rising to 1% at 20Hz (has been RMA'd once, guess it's still slightly damaged) -THD numbers in the following paragraph are mostly constant through the frequency range, so I'm picking a 1khz reference -Load is resistive; no water for cooling because heat dissipation is 100W max. Step by step results: -10V @ no load: 0.003% THD -10V @ 8R: 0.048% THD -10V @ 4R: 0.109% THD -30s 200Hz signal @ 20V into 4R -10V @ 8R: 0.004% THD -10V @ 4R: 0.01% THD Results were verified multiple times (like multiple sweeps @high THD and then multiple sweeps at low THD after 'break-in'). Results were the same for all 6 amps (with 3 channels each) I tested, but some didn't have high THD because I've had them in use before already. Results were the same after I let the amps cool off (always low THD after being 'broken-in'). Results were the same the next day. Whatever happened here, driving the amp modules to their maximum once lowered overall distortion by an order of magnitude (forever?). Maybe someone can help tracing the issue. Whatever generates the current in the amp is affected by this, so it might be the transistors. Might be the solder heating up and changing its properties (but I don't think the amp is getting hot enough for that; at least I hope so because that would be approaching 200°C). Might be the power supply. I'm not an expert in this subject, but I believed that electronics components don't change (excpet caps with age), as long as they're not hardcore overdriven and like literally melting.
    2 points
  32. Hey Josh. Curious if you would be willing to make a recommendation for high and low pass filters with recommended slopes your Skram design. It’s been a while since I’ve had mine out with the pandemic and all, but I’m planning a day at our studio tomorrow to get everything plugged in and spend some timing tuning and tweaking. Planning to get the measurement mic out and spend some time dialing in the system so I don’t get rusty haha. I’ve been happy with the setting I’ve been running which I don’t remember off hand but I’ve got some different amps on hand so willing to try some new things. Another goal for tomorrow is to try and get some comparison data between the Cvr 3002’s and the powersoft k-10.
    2 points
  33. Sound quality wise, I'd take skrams over double 18's all day every day.
    1 point
  34. Jay how many of these do you have built now? 8?
    1 point
  35. Very happy to have the Skrams outdoors again, always makes me smile hearing that clean tight bass https://youtu.be/bNxhrqLsKME
    1 point
  36. Hello Cam, To add a bit more to Kyle's post, group delay is WAY over rated when it comes to subwoofers. Lower is better make no mistake but the perception of it at low frequencies has not been shown to be very audible unless it gets very bad. Studies have shown that as frequency decreases we are more tolerant of large GD and it is much more difficult to distinguish. Personally I don't worry about it below 30Hz. 20ms at 50Hz is probably not worth worrying about. 20ms at 200Hz on the other hand should be quite audible. This is why group delay is often represented as a percentage of a cycle vs frequency. With subs I only have concern if the delay is not uniform (spikes, sudden increases in certain frequency bands above 30Hz, the delay exceeds 1.5 cycles > 30Hz, or a combination of both. If the GD is relatively smooth over the primary bass range and remains below 1 cycle I don't worry about it. Room acoustics tend to do horrible things to the time response at the listening position that dwarf the native GD of the sub anyway.
    1 point
  37. Hell yeah Jay. Looks awesome. Probably sounds alright too. 😏
    1 point
  38. FYI Maglito...Frame OD on this is 21". It'll be tough getting it into 22.5" height with feet. Not impossible though. I believe my home cabs are about 22.5 x 22.5 on the driver baffle but they do not have feet. The driver was tested in about 4.5ft sealed after driver displacement and bracing. Test cab was 23x23x20". At home I have them sealed in roughly the same amount of volume per driver. They work great. Bring the EQ and the POWER. Adjust to taste. One thing to be aware of is with a moving assembly that weighs 1Kg these can shake the hell out of a small enclosure at war volume. That's a big part of the reason mine are dual opposed. You'll need some mass and grippy feet to hold them in place.
    1 point
  39. BB holds screws better as well. In general I avoid MDF or HDF when possible, especially on larger cab sizes. For things like small monitors and car subs it isn't a bad choice to save some money.
    1 point
  40. No, but not because of the different impedances. The biggest issue is that the high frequency section is a lot more efficient than the low frequency section and needs attenuation to play at the right level. Another issue is that you really need a high low pass filter for the mid or else it will make a mess of your upper mid response. And you probably want to cross closer to 1500 Hz. More generally to get good sound quality you really need a crossover that's custom designed for the combination of drivers, which for your case is actually 3 different drivers. In your first post, you said you'd designed custom crossovers, so I figured you had some experience with crossover design. Your later responses indicate that the subject is quite new to you. I'm not sure how interested or inclined you are to learn about crossover design. It won't be easy unless you have a fair amount of skill with math and electric circuits as well as some basic acoustics knowledge. If not, then you'll want to plan on investing a lot of time learning. You'll also need to invest in a measurement system and learn how to use it. Crossovers are even tougher for passive 3-way systems like you're planning and any situation in which the drivers are far off in level. If you go this route, you'll have a much easier time if you have active DSP available so that you can experiment with different configurations without having to buy and swap out parts, but this means buying more amps and possible an external DSP unit if your amps don't have DSP functionality built-in. Perhaps a better idea is to look for an existing design to build. I'm sorry I can't offer much in the way of recommendation, especially given your limited budget and the fact that you've already committed to woofers. I think you'll want to look at some other forums, like diyaudio.com (more music oriented) or the DIY section on avsforum.com (more home theater oriented). Maybe you can find a design that incorporates the woofers you bought. If not, you might look at 2-way designs and consider doing an active crossover to the woofers. Alas, this also means buying more amps and possibly an external DSP. A third option is to not worry about sound quality and just build something, trying to learn as much as you can along the way. The design you suggested (assuming the crossovers adequately protect the drivers) should certainly make soun, and quite a lot of it. It probably won't sound good in the upper mids or treble. A speaker with a single GRS planar radiator may sound a bit better but not great and probably won't play as loud either. It might sound better than the Ciare CH201 you're looking at. The problem with the CH201 apart from the steep drop above 10 kHz is the horn termination being too short, which messes up frequency response between 3-6 kHz. Good luck, whatever you decide to do.
    1 point
  41. Welcome @RCAguy ! Frequency response specs for a sub, even if done "honestly", often don't tell you much about its real capabilities. A DSP (including the one built-in to most powered subs) can re-shape the frequency response, and a lot of commercial subs rely on DSP bass boost to achieve their specs. Of course EQ can't compensate for the physical limitations of the driver and available amp power, but in practice it is often very beneficial to design a sub whose innate response starts rolling off much higher than its intended bandwidth and then compensate for this as needed using DSP/EQ. Since you're new here, let me recommend you check out the main site at https://data-bass.com/ where you'll find measurements of various subs taken to their limits at frequencies across the spectrum. Not only is DSP bass boost very common in commercial integrated designs but it's also becoming very popular among DIY sub builders as often the better drivers have natural roll-off that can be easily compensated for. What really matters for bass performance is high displacement and sufficient amp power. And doing it "cleanly". Distortion is an extremely complex subject, one that can't be understood by simply considering THD% at different frequencies. The relative distribution and structure of harmonics is also important as is the particular content and its characteristics. There's no simple answer to how much THD is acceptable, and I don't think there ever will be because the notion represents a misunderstanding of how perception works. In my opinion, *linear* response of the installed system is the most important attribute for sound quality. For low frequencies in small rooms, this is a major problem with no easy solution as yet. Strategic acoustic treatments can help but are only a partial remedy. Linear response directly impacts the structure of both naturally occurring harmonics and harmonics produced by distortion (often on purpose during production---to improve sound quality). Objectionable linear response flaws likely introduce irregularities in the presentation of harmonic structure, which interferes with the brains means of isolating sounds from one another in the acoustic scene. This causes listener confusion, hearing of spurious auditory content (i.e. "hearing treble" or "hearing bass" that's disconnected from the rest of the sound), and harsh or uncomfortable sensations felt in the ears or even other body parts. If music at 75 dB "hurts your ears", it's probably your brain telling you it's hearing something unnatural that it doesn't know how to process. The "harsh treble" you think you're hearing might actually be caused by problems in the bass. Anyway, this this stuff interests me a lot, and I'm working on new methods to improve linear response for low frequencies (and high frequencies too). I have a DSP technique that sounds *very promising*; it seems capable of almost entirely neutralizing the acoustic signature of the listening room in addition to the speakers themselves. It is in this kind of situation that I think low THD for subs in particular may be important. Linear DSP can be used to alter the linear response to whatever I like, but this processing cannot touch any distortion produced the amp or subs. For a speaker, that's not too big of a deal, especially if the driver response is fairly clean without EQ. Most of the distortion produced is likely to be quite regular, so even if it becomes audible it's likely to sound natural and pleasing. However, for bass and especially the sub range, the room interactions make the distortion much more irregular and therefore much more likely to sound objectionable, and there's no way to fix this with linear processing. I have no idea how important this is in practice. My system uses subs with very low distortion as far as subs go and has enormous headroom. It might be a bigger problem for small speakers pushing their bass limits all the time. Or pro speakers under similar circumstances. Servo control might be a key solution. Please forgive my ramblings.
    1 point
  42. At the risk of becoming a @h3idrun Reply Guy, here's some Melbourne plywood info: Plyco in Fairfield have 18mm Birch BB for $160/sheet and Hardwood Exterior Plywood for $100. I think they'll chop it up for a relatively modest fee if transport is an issue. Here's another supplier - don't ask me what all the terms on that page mean though! Also, Upton's in Epping sell some really cheap, VERY light plywood that I reckon I'll use at least for bracing, once I get around to building something. I can't find it on their website, but give them a call if you're interested.
    1 point
  43. A nice video on the topic by Bennett Prescott, B&C US sales manager:
    1 point
  44. I'm in Adelaide. I have a pair of 21SW152's sitting on a shelf still waiting for me to build my Skrams. As long as you dont mind the long wait for shipping times there are better options that PE. But if you want it asap then PE is probably your best option.
    1 point
  45. Are you wanting BC drivers and where are you located at?
    1 point
  46. Hey @h3idrun looks like you got decent results. You could try power compression (see testing methods on this site) testing to see how close your actually getting to a 21" (Sweeps increasing in level until your getting 3dB compression). The umik-1 tops out around 120dB so if you will probably need to move it back a few meters to reduce the level. I like the idea of running the Prius as a generator. I have a 6 channel DSP amp box running off a 16S lithium battery I built for portable stuff.
    1 point
  47. I don't know if the size and/or dimensions work, but this looks like the design you want: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/reed-exodus-anarchy-25hz-tapped-horn.1238398/ Edit to add: A caveat is that it requires a high-order (DSP) crossover. You really need the crossover to cut the output above 80-100 Hz or else it won't sound very good.
    1 point
  48. As far as testing goes. There is nothing happening right now and for the immediate future. I've had to turn away a bunch of companies and projects since this time last year and I'm still sitting on a whole summers worth of testing from well previous to that. I'm not planning to be done completely, but after 10 years my priorities and other life goals have shifted and I can't find the hundreds of hours to put into testing, and publishing every year, like I once did.
    1 point
  49. I thought you were doing a really nice build but that 85 degree port is unacceptable and you probably need to start over. Just kidding. I think it looks great. Great job and you should be very happy.
    1 point
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