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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/03/2022 in Posts

  1. Based on the TH118's spec sheet I'd guess it's giving up some low end (its F4 is at 37Hz) for a bit of added sensitivity at higher frequencies, which might mean that in its passband, the TH118 would be able to keep up with the Skram, but below 40Hz the Skram will outrun it pretty quickly. I didn't look at cab volumes and the best data point would be CEA2010 ratings for both made by the same person, so take this with a grain of salt. Any horn-kind of design doesn't lend itself well to going deep while being space-efficient, I feel. The Skram is a hybrid, which kinda gives it the best of both worlds.
    2 points
  2. I think the combination of SH46 and Skram is just simply a great pairing sound and power wise. The horn loaded upper bandwidth of the Skram really compliments the sound character of the SH46, together they sound very clean with well defined impact, some would describe it as having "fast bass". For an example, If there is a genre of music that I've heard sound shit on a lot of sound systems, its psytrance. Something about those fast upper bass notes just seem to show the warts on many sound systems. The Sh46 Skram combo sounds better on psytrance than anything else I've ever heard, F1, Void, Turbo etc etc. On top of that, one of my biggest rental clients is a long standing local crew that specializes in bass music, dubstep, drum and bass etc. They like the Skrams so much they are now building their own. For reference, this same crew was previously a heavy renter of PK sound, which some people say is the yard stick for bass music subwoofer's. So yeah, the Skram is an exceptionally flexible cabinet, it really can do all the things well. To your original question, I would add that when my 6 Skram's start touching limiting, the Sh46's still have a few db of headroom to go. Personally I'd say the appropriate sub to sh46 ratio would be 6 to 7 skrams per pair of sh46. I've got another pair of SH46 on the way, with a couple more Skrams in the cnc cue, if I have another successful summer next year maybe Ill cut up another 4. Th118 vs Skram, I think Josh would be a better person to answer that one... they must be fairly close in output overall, but I'm just speculating
    1 point
  3. this document from powersoft has some guidelines (6" coil): https://www.powersoft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/powersoft_TN009_LimiterSetup_en_v1.0.pdf Limiters are also a function of the box design and to an extent the program material. They are used to prevent over excursion and thermal damage. You can check this in Hornresp but I don't think the amplifiers above have enough output voltage with this driver to cause over excursion with an appropriate high pass filter. Then you are just left with thermal damage for which you want the TruePower limiter. To set this you start at a low value and measure magnet temperature* over a long period of time while running program material that is heavily compressed by the limiter. Adjust up the limiter slowly (it may take on the order of an hour for the magnet temp to stabilize) until you reach the maximum magnet temp you want to allow (<100C !). This procedure takes a long time, makes a lot of noise and may destroy your driver...
    1 point
  4. My pair of Danley sh46 are a pretty good match for 6 skrams, but they still outrun them a bit. I think 8 skrams would be the perfect balance. I've got another pair of skrams in the cutting phase, and another pair of sh46 on the way. Lots of skrams popping up in my area, there will be 12 in my city pretty soon, as well as 8 or 10 on the island. Been some planning discussing how to get them all in the same place sometimes soon I'm planning an after summer report soon, was hectic busy with lots of great gigs
    1 point
  5. Welcome to the Rabbit hole of BASS! Correct me if I am wrong with any of this....... I use the B&C 21SW152's at 4ohm with a QSC PL380 amp. This amp drives 2 SKRAMS, with room to melt the coil if you turn the clip limit switch off.(I know from accidental experience) I have thought about running 4 x 8 ohm drivers with this one amp in series as well, but figure that would be pushing the amp alot and I typically use the amp at Burning Man and it was %*&#^@ hot this year so it prolly would not be the best idea as the amp would be turned all the way up instead of running at 50-60% like I currently am. I pair the 2 SKRAMS with Meyer Sound UPJ's and run the tops at -6db for most outdoor venues and -10db for most indoor venues (unless it gets really crowded, then I go to -4db outdoors for the tops and -6db for indoor.... Otherwise the tops are Too Bright). I have Meyer Sound UPQ's on order and will need to double my SKRAMS to keep up with the UPQ's output so I plan on building 2 more of these unless I just go straight to the Powersoft 30" M-Force subs but they are 12,000$ a pair with amp and you have to wait a year to get the drivers. If you are going with 6 SKRAMS you will need quite the tops to compete as these Bass Bins output some serious BASS!!! Jay on here has quite the system with I think it was Danley tops, he might be one to DM. I would always cut in the grooves to build these boxes, serious forces going on here and you need the cabs to be rock solid, make sure you use the best Baltic Birch you can find, PU Glue and lots of pre-drilled screws. One option if you do not have access to a CNC router is to find a local makers space that has one, I used the TRUCKEE ROUNDHOUSE shop bot to make mine. GOOD LUCK AND MAY THE BASS BE WITH YOU!
    1 point
  6. Hello DJimbo and welcome. As far as assembling the cabs go. Clamps and more clamps are your friend. Other options that help are a brad nailer, or a pocket screw kit. If using the 21SW152 drivers best results will probably be with 2 to 4kw of amplifier rating per driver. Any more might get sketchy over long periods of time. Less would leave some of the dynamic capability on the table. I prefer to run fully bridged amp channels on bass when possible. Smoothing out the corners might help with airflow in an ideal scenario but it has drawbacks. It reduces the internal volume utilized by the driver. With bass size (air volume) is king. The Skram is a vented cab on the back side so it's a traditional ported arrangement there. Large flares and circular vents would be beneficial ideally but would greatly increase the size of the cab and its complexity. The front is a short horn/expanding slot. The same applies here. Ideally it would be a totally smooth, straight path, but packaging it into the cab dimensions requires compromises. At best these would be small gains in output / noise reduction, even if it was built ideally with a totally different (much uglier and unwieldy) form factor. I hope this explains why most bass cabs do not bother with dramatic smoothing of the air path. It comes with other tradeoffs.
    1 point
  7. If you have a CNC at hand you can route some grooves which should help with assembling and gluing process. I did not have one so I used lamello joints for easier assembling and increased stability. This was my gluing order: 1. Baffle and horn 2. Base with ports 3. Braces 4. Outer sides It was a pain in the ass though. I am glad my friend -a master carpenter who owns the workshop- helped with the gluing and I never knew that you can get sore muscles in each and every finger. You are going to need a lot of large and strong vices, too! Gonna post some pictures later on how it went. From the fluid mechanics perspective i would say that you are moving large amounts of air back and forth repeatedly in different frequencies all at once. There will be turbulence all over the place no matter what you try. Even though I was also tempted to round of "F" I ultimately went with the original design (well almost...) Good luck!
    1 point
  8. Hello Shayne. That is a lot of power. Whether it is too much depends on a few factors. I'd suggest doing a bit of experimentation before running it wide open for long periods of time. Remember doubling power is only 3dB in an ideal case.
    1 point
  9. Yes. If using all vents open a 25Hz HPF is recommended.
    1 point
  10. Hello, If you ever use this setup again, you shouldn't use the mini scoops and just cross your Skrams way higher. If those BPHs are ES18, you can (and should) probably cross them at 80hz directly with the Skrams. Using 3 boxes for the 25hz-220hz seems counterproductive to me, especially if you didn't put them properly in phase. If you build 2 more Skrams, even if the boxes don't have the same drivers inside, let them play together, the phase should be pretty similar, you will win more than using them crossed separately
    1 point
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