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  1. Last week
  2. An FDM machine with a large enough frame to do a 40x25" horn is going to cost a bit. I guess you could print in multiple pieces and assemble but the discontinuities in the horn will affect the results.
  3. Been doing some tests with my Hypex amps and just out of curiosity I ran them without water in the tank, because I wanted to see how warm the elements got when testing lower power levels. I put the bank on 8R (two elements in parallel) and gave it 50W for a minute. I could still touch the elements after the test was over. They were probably around 50°C (110°F?) at that point. Good news for me, as that means I can test everything below a few hundred watts without having to fill up the tank. I will give it a bit more power tomorrow to see how much the resistance changes, but it shouldn't be much. It's 8.2-8.3R cold and 8R under full load (3KW per element, which would mean an amp with 6KW into 8R would be required to saturate one channel).
  4. Sounds like a plan and I agree. Save the time and the wear and tear on all of the above. There simply aren't any common scenarios where the content calls for 100% duty cycle signals for any length of time. Perhaps an SPL competition for a few seconds.
  5. I do not have DXF files developed for this. Your CNC provider would need to roll their own. This is the simplest design though. It shouldn't be very difficult.
  6. Definitely keep us updated on this!
  7. I've been looking at 3d printers for a few hours. Large format has come a long way since I did any research. You can print in copper these days too. Need to figure out if either a tractor with cab and attachments are really what I want or if making would keep me satisfied. I miss Tinkermill in Colorado. They would literally teach the know how and help you build a rocket. Didn't get to sink my teeth in after joining. Will keep researching.
  8. I agree on the 3 seconds part. Amps either drop off from burst power to sustained power within a fraction of a second or they're burst power=sustained power type of amps. Looking at my Sanway test reveals that nothing much changes after the cap banks are drained (after just shy of a second). After 2 seconds it ended up on its sustained power level, which would happen even faster when driving two channels. I think I'll go with 3 seconds at 1k, 100, 60, 30, 15 and 8Hz. It cuts down on my testing time, is less hard on the amps and my breakers are unlikely to trip like this. Looking back at my initial test, the 90 seconds test was pretty stupid. 90 seconds 100% duty cycle into 2R of a fan modded amp... I will fool around with REW and stepped sine wave tests as well, maybe that reveals some interesting results (It can step level now and not just frequency)
  9. Tbh I'd personally buy a large enough 3D printer. I have all kinds of equipment, which includes a CNC router, but even then, making horns is something I'd find cumbersome to do. Doing it on the CNC would require doing it in something like 1" slices. Doing it by hand with something like a large Dremel... inaccurate and really tideous work...
  10. Some things happen for a reason I guess. Lean-business.co.uk has sold out of the handmade horn. Definitely need to relax my mind with a challenge and make the best use of my dollar. I'm about to ask for a lot of help. Can somebody please post a list of recommended equipment needed to make horns. Example: What type of table saw works best? What other tools would be a best purchase? I'm pretty good with fixing stuff and will figure this out. Not afraid to try. Thank you
  11. Hi Everyone, I am looking into building the EDM version of the design that Powersoft has released for my art car. I currently have 2 SKRAMS with B&C 21SW152's on a QSC PL380 amp with 2 Meyer Sound UPJ Tops. The SKRAMS are amazing!!!! Thank you Josh! Instagram @jackalotus I have downloaded the plans from Powersoft and am working them through illustrator. I have spoken with the west coast Powersoft reps at Emmersive Production Services in Ventura CA who are Very Helpful. He has 2 of the 1st version M-Force Drivers he is using and loves them. I was originally introduced to the M-Force at Burning man by David Lee at Bass Boss. He had 4 of these drivers set up on a walk in horn design subwoofer running just under 60,000 watts of total power. You can see Emmersives subs on their instagram @emmersiveproduction Current Cost of 18mm Baltic Birch in Reno is 158$ for a 4x8 piece and 105$ for a 5x5 piece. The Design takes 4 sheets of 4x8 18mm Baltic birch. The CNC routing is a bit more complex, multiple pieces need to have grooves on both side of the plywood which will take some time to do properly.
  12. Yes things behave much differently towards the frequency extremes. 1kHz is the defacto standard test for amps a lot of the time. Where the power ratings are measured. Testing at 20Hz or 20kHz is a lot rougher on the amplifier many times. It depends though. Some amps behave differently than others. The best amplifier testing I recall was the Bink's tests from something like 15 years ago. 10 seconds is more than plenty IMHO. Hell I think 3 seconds 100% duty cycle would be enough. Those types of signals simply aren't in 99.99% of music, broadcast or, movie soundtrack.
  13. Skhorns in Norway...Nice. Thanks for the video link. I would use the Eminence or the 21DS115 as alternatives to the 21Ipal in this cab.
  14. Earlier
  15. Any chance of posting the DXF files? Thank you
  16. Ricci designed the sub after the IPAL but there are still many other drivers that work in this design.
  17. Any Burst Output numbers to compare to SK and Skram? This is a great design without leaving much on the table for size.
  18. Ok. Just found out that the SKHorn is dependent on the iPal in its entire design concept. Usually we think of a cab and then figure which driver would best suit it. in this case it seems its the other way around and if you want to use other drivers, see the Skram. So, seems like I’ll be trying again to negotiate prices on iPals. The guy from VIP pretty much hung up on the Saturday so maybe I’ll try again on a weekday during business hours. He was clueless on what an iPal was. I think he just gave up to be honest and had better things to do.
  19. Don't know if this video (in Norwegian) has been shared already - I presume not due to the different-language "barrier" - but it shows what can only be the Skhorn with IPAL drivers at some Norwegian fella who specializes in building (and buying) horns speakers, big subs and the likes. He describes the Skhorn sound as (freely translated) "effortless, dynamic and airy." Attributes any serious (true) audiophile should aspire to from subs, I gather, but in reality few would ever get to experience their sound for, well.. obvious reasons when speaking of audiophiles in general. I take it the Skhorn is designed with the B&C 21SW152 and/or its IPAL sibling in mind?
  20. I can find a ferrite (21QLEX1600FE) and neo (21LEX1600ND) 21" in beyma site, are both suitable or one better than the other? The ferrite seem to like a little bigger enclosures and a few other parameters are a little different. Do you mean they (or one of them?) are a better match than lavoce & B&c aswell? Also for ckram and Skram if so? I've not seen them recommended here before, interesting. The ferrite version is attractively priced in Europe.
  21. If iPals were no longer available in the marketplace (theoretically speaking) which current driver would you choose to run in the SKH?
  22. It was 1khz, which meant maximum heat development in the amp, which was the cause for its failure. It sustained over 7khz (single channel) into 2R for 260 milliseconds at 1khz. That's 260 cycles. Wouldn't that means it's able to do 2.6 cycles at 10Hz at 7khz or does it behave differently? I was planning on measuring at different frequencies as well, but I have so many things on my plate at the moment, I can't tell when that'll happen. I was also pretty pissed when the amp went up in smoke, which is why I stopped testing. But I think it should be fine if I limit it to 10 second tests instead of 'seeing what will happen' (I left the amps running at max for 2 minutes). The amp threw my 16A 230V breaker after 16 seconds anyways, I should've left it at that instead of plugging it into a 32A circuit.
  23. What frequency was it doing 4kw? 1kHz is easy peasy...30Hz not so much. The magic smoke strikes again! No doubt those amps make power. Load banks are purely resistive, speakers are not. Dual 21Ipal does drop below 2ohms. 1.6 ohms at certain frequencies or thereabout. Not too bad with dynamic music. Long sustained notes near the impedance min gets tough on the amp.
  24. SP6000 is great for 1 or 2 ohm loads. It doesn't have the peak voltage of the LG/PS amps but it can cook your drivers with sustained power.
  25. CJ, Everything is in the first couple of posts. FYI. The Dayton has a large amount of inductance. It will modify the performance significantly if the effects weren't included in the model.
  26. You forgot to mention one of the most important pieces of information...Budget?
  27. Hello to everyone on the forum. I am considering my 2nd diy sub project and am really unsure about selecting the suitable driver for my needs. If anyone could kindly advise me it would be really helpful. About my room. My room measures 6 meters wide by 5 meters deep and ceiling is 2.2 meters High. I like 60/40 music and movies. I am running an atmos system. I currently have 2 JL Audio 13W7's in sealed enclosures and they are in manufacturers recommended sized enclosures. These are driven by my inuke 12000 dsp @3 ohms. The subs have served me very well Im just looking for a little more presence, better sound quality and something that goes a little deeper. Most important is sq and for the subs to be musical. Basically quantity over unclean spl levels. So far I have been considering 1 Dayton Audio 18" reference 460 sub in the sealed enclosure with the flat pack bundle. 2 FI car audio sub 18 Ht1 or HT 3 Only draw back with this option is I cant just throw it into the ready cut enclosure that is for the Dayton Audio 460. I like the idea of using the premade flatpack as it will be a neater and cost effective route for me. (Im not very good with constructing from scratch) If there aee any other drivers out there that will excel the W7's in an 18 inch size please advise me. Im not even good at the subwoofer enclosure program that everyone uses. Iv forgotten what its called. 😒🤪 I look forward to your advice and any suggestions you may have. Thanks in advance👍 Waheed
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