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  2. Thanks for the suggestions, but they all seem to target an installation market with the phoenix connectors, I'd prefer XLR since the intended use is live sound. It looks like every hunt for something like this leads me back to Powersoft. I've looked into lake processors, but they're big buck. So much so, that I'd rather just replace all my amps with Powersoft for ease of use and better reliability (over clone amps). My clone amp is a dsp amp (10kQ amp section) but nothing but a peak limiter. I'm scared of letting DJs loose on the system.. without absolutely choking it in the first place just for safety concerns.. Maybe I'm just gonna do a few gigs like this until a bit more money came in and then go to Powersoft.. in late 2025 it seems, since Germany just been canceling everything everywhere for the past two years.
  3. Symetrix or QSC or BIAMP DSPs do arbitrary signal processing with a flow graph approach. You can download the software and design site files offline to see if it will work for you. The Symetrix limiters accept side chain input which could simplify your signal flow. Powersoft amps can limit on real power input to the driver. I'm not quite sure why no one has developed an amp that senses real time voice coil temp from the copper/alu thermal coefficient yet but that should be possible (and guarantee driver survival from thermal failure). A low frequency small amplitude excitation could be used to sense DCR.
  4. Last week
  5. I'm looking for a system controller for a very specific setup: I need it in a EQ→Limiter→Limiter→EQ topology. Does this exist in some kind of modular dsp or would I have to cascade multiple units for this purpose? On the pc I'd just make a plugin chain as needed. Seems to me like hardware is a decade behind Alternatively: are there speaker controllers which allow me to import an impedance measurement of my subs so they can properly limit according to power instead of voltage, so I don't have to build this myself with the aforementioned chain or EQs and limiters?
  6. Chiko, I understand. Not everyone has enough budget to build many smaller cabs. This is a big cab...About the size of a Skhorn. 30Hz is pretty low for a scoop and requires a lot of size. Im not sure I would like that big 70Hz peak followed by a hole in the response at 100Hz, which is part of the reason I'm not a scoop guy. I always planned to test a popular scoop design but never have.
  7. This will be fine. These are very minor details. Do not worry.
  8. Excursion and moving mass mainly, both as much as possible.
  9. I am also interested to know if 45° cut is necessary for panel C? Is there a risk of aerodynamic noise with 90° cut? I am currently working on OpenSCAD model with goal of exporting CNC data and for now I left the panel with 90° cut as I am not sure how 45° cut could be manufactured by CNC.
  10. I will go through that. It seems those JBL can be bought here as well and it's pretty inexpensive too. There seems to be no spec sheets for those thought. What would be the requirements for a subwoofer to be used in this kind of build?
  11. I posted a few pics somewhere in this thread, but you'll find all the information you'll need in there anyways: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/the-hideaway-theater.2991522/
  12. While this forum this seems to cater to subwoofers for pro-use, folks have been very helpfull and welcoming. Much appreciated. You have a build somewhere on another forum? I tried to decouple the subs but since my whole backwall is open(and second floor), it did not help much. This also makes it very hard to really pressurise it properly. The sealed Faitals do a good job, but it still lacks that "chest compression". That said I am still learning about EQ and setup so that might also be apart of it. I first. I usually do not listen very loudly, so this Boss platform seems very promising for not much money.
  13. Hi, I agree with you @Ricci that two extra skram would do the job without bph kicks. I connected it to a D&B amplifier and put it to work as 21S SUB the same of them (since there is no setup but the model is chosen) and oh how it works well the whole range up to 105Hz - (-5db) with their settings, Unfortunately the problem is that we currently have them two and no money for other two and in this situation I sacrifice the SPL to go low, an additional two skram could then do both but as SME and Peniku stated many times the basses are cut and the music is listened to without skram and at one point the magic just appears : D This is the box made for PD2150-(636,1320,798), it is quite big and not modified for b & c 21 ds115 .. If you are interested I have a slightly different scoop design that I modified for 21ds115 and I am currently waiting for a colleague to make it but as it started I will before: D this is from hornresp .. of course his purpose is to go low and have a spl - mine is 636x1466x836(w-h-d)
  14. I second the BOSS idea, I have tried it and it's really nice. You can build one in a way that it only elevates your seating by an inch if you want to keep it low profile. It won't make any noise, but will greatly enhance your bass 'perception'. Mounting drivers to your walls is a bad idea, as the vibrations will transmit through them (unless they're infinitely stiff) and probably still end up disturbing others. De-coupling your sub from the floor with a rubber mat or foam works wonders sometimes too. I used two jbl stage 1210 in my BOSS build.
  15. Thanks everybody for the input and interesting amp discussion. I'm gonna be using an original FP10kQ and I am considering to get another one. I think one on each side would be a good start with huge headroom for a 3-way system and I would still have enough capacity to double up at a later point or migrate to 4-way with another amp. Anyway, cabinet building is coming closer and I am just studying the plans and converting the measurements to round metric numbers. Does anybody know why there is this 45° cut in the front panel C? I think it will get used as a handle in combination with the back-side hatch handles and now I am afraid that the sharp corner might break at some point and/or lead to injuries. I would prefer to use a rounded edge instead if it doesn't serve a meaningful purpose. Cheers, Domme
  16. Thanks. Good point about the pro-woofers. I will start to keep my eyes open for some used Peerless XLS drivers. That wall is not solid. Just studs and gypsum board. So might have to keep that in mind.... I will check it out. That seems like another good option.
  17. I'd recommend the $30 JBL driver under your couch/sofa as another option worth perusing. Being across the pond, not sure if you have access to that driver and/or at that price, but many use them on avsforum. Think they call it BOSS setup or something similar. Edit: it is indeed boss - back open sub shaker on AVS
  18. Plans for the Skhorn or Skram subs are in the first few posts of each respective forum thread.
  19. Doing nearfield subs behind the seats isn't a bad idea when you still want to feel the bass but also want to keep the volume manageable. The XLS series is a decent woofer still. For this type of use look for something with a bit of xmax since you'll probably want to boost the lower freqs where the tactile shake happens most. I'd choose something like the XLS for this versus the 15" pro woofs. Cheap 12" car woofers from JBL or Infinity could work well also. One thing to consider is the backwave of the drivers in that stair wall. If it isn't solid you may have trouble with noise and vibration from it. The drivers will be coupled to it and that wall will act as an enclosure.
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  21. This will probably work out the easiest, or least time-consuming. Just measur them in-room and EQ to flat, without any need for Linkwitz transforms. It has been pretty informative to test the different Q settings with that though. EQ them flat in-room to flat in room. Getting the rest of the room done, so hopefully I can start to test so REW EQ settings soon. @Ricci I have a small "half wall" right behind my listening position. It's a stairway that goes down to the groundfloor. This is a open area so, cannot listen very loudly when kids are in bed. Some one suggested that so could build in some smaller subwoofers on that wall to provide "tactile" response. That wall is roughly 5 inches thick so That would be the max depth. One of the few options that could work in such a small spaces (at least her in Europe seems to be the old Peerless XLS 12/10 series and a few pro drivers that could work in about 40 liters sealed( Faital Pro 10RS350, Sica 10SR2,5CP). Al of these will be about 100-130€ euros. Peerless can be had pretty inexpensively when buying used. 15" pro driver might work too, bit it will need quite a a bit of EQ. I seem to remember that you like the Peerless XLS for what it was. Would you still recommend them? Not sure if it is even a good idea considering I have the 18" Faitals upfront.... Any thoughts and suggestions?
  22. I would love the plans I want to build 18 pals been looking for plans my tops come down to 90 hz. I use 2- 6.5 speaker on a parallel lens and 1- 2 radian 950pb parallel lens and 4- 6338 McCauley 12 in each box and I have 4- 18 tapped horns by tom danely so I want more 20 to 60 hz sound thxz Denis
  23. https://www.china-sanway.com/D20KQ-4-Channel-Class-D-Digital-DSP-Amplifier-16000W-for-Subwoofer-pd49629476.html I suspect the latest Sanway amps are at least a development on the original LG designs as the power levels are beyond the amplifiers that they are meant to be a clone of: https://www.prosoundnetwork.com/gear-and-technology/labgruppen-fp-series-amplifiers
  24. On the wire ratings, sorry my mistake! I reviewed the posts, and my display is working fine. For my home subs, I used 4-conductor 10 gauge cable (5.25 sq mm), one cable to each cabinet for a total cross-section of 21 sq mm for the 12 kW amp, and the loads are closer to 4 ohm.
  25. Yea, it all depends on the gig. If you need those long sustained bass notes you'll have to think about getting more drivers, but you can also save on amping by bringing one Speakerpower amp instead of two Powersofts or something. You'll lose 6dB of peak headroom or whatever, but you get the same sustained power with less gear. You might get away with 1KW of amping per driver for such gigs, depending on how hard the source content is compressed. About the wiring, it seems the "²" might not be displayed on your device properly, Domme and I both used "mm²" units, which is the same as mm^2 or sqmm. Here is a pic what it should look like:
  26. The Sanway "clones" may perform better or worse than the similarly named Lab Gruppen brand amps. I'm not even sure how closely the Sanway amps resemble the original designs. The "clone" may just be in the branding. It actually wouldn't shock me if the Sanway amps actually perform better. Of course, I doubt anyone will be buying and measuring one of the original ones any time soon. That said, while 130 ms might be OK for rock kick-drum, dub-step and related genres typically have bass with a lot more compression. In my example track from above, the "average power is 1/4th of max" applies when I analyze the whole song, which has a few brief breaks from the sustained bass. If I exclude those brief rest intervals, the average is closer to 1/3rd the max for passages that are a minute or longer! This suggests that one should provision *a lot of spare headroom* into systems that play this kind of music and pay much more mind to long-term power capabilities in components. For example, the 21SW152s may have an edge over the DS115s for such systems, and it's definitely important to know how much output an amp can sustain for those minute long sustained bass passages. :) I wish there was an easy / straight-forward answer, but a lot really depends on details including the particulars of the content. One of the nice things about over-provisioning an audio system if one can afford to do so is worrying less about accidentally taking it too far and breaking something. Regarding wiring, I assumed the 4mm figure indicated by @domme referred to diameter and not cross-sectional area, which would have units of mm^2. A cylindrical wire with 4 mm^2 of cross-sectional area is about 2.25 mm diameter.
  27. According to my tests, the Sanway FP13k should be able to burst its rated power for ~130ms, which should be plenty for typical kick hits (sustained notes at max will fry the drivers anyways, so why bother). I'd expect the og amps to perform similarly or better (I sure hope that's the case). The instability when running unbridged amps only occurs when running the amp asymmentrically to my knowledge. The FP14k is running in 'half-bridged' mode as you say (onec channel's input and output polarity reversed to run mirrored symmetrical loads on the channels), which is a bit easier on the power supply. I've run both my 10kQ and my 13k asymmetrically; full tilt on one channel and much lower power on the other and never ran into issues. As for the power ratings, Bennett recommended to set a long term average limiter at 1/10th of the rated program power, which would be ~350W, so 700W for two, which gives us 19A. That sounds a bit more reasonable, but the drivers will be fed a lot more juice temporarily of course, like you showed in your example. Looking at the DIN VDE 0298-4, 2x4mm² is certified for exactly 40A in section 'E', which essentially means free wire outside. That norm targets a 70°C (158°F!) operational temperature. Yikes!
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