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  2. I have 2 subs I built a few years back, but for now I only have 1 SW152-4 woofer installed and I cant find a second one for a good price. Are there similar commercially available alternative I can look for (second hand). Thanks
  3. Earlier
  4. Hello ! Took me a while but I finally remembered to save my measurements to share those with you. They are worth what they are, I'll try to get unfiltered ones the next time. So here is an uncalibrated measurement of 2 Skram units, 21DS115-4 loaded with a 2nd order BW filter at 24hz and a 4th order LR filter at 108.8hz. (No correction EQ). The subs were 8 meters away. Considering how flat it is with the LR filter, you can imagine how the curve is rising after 50hz.
  5. Make a few posts and message me your email.
  6. I would run the Skram or Ckram sub which is smaller, instead. Splitting the Skhorn in half results in a lot of driver pressure directed into an outer panel which I'm not a fan of. It really wasn't designed to be split in half because the driver arrangement is less than ideal for that.
  7. Cone flex can be a problem but only in drivers not designed adequately for high pressure applications. It has not been a problem with any of the cab designs I've made/tested/used with 18" or larger drivers. There is a reason that modern high power sub drivers have a heavy mms and stiff suspensions. It is required for strength, control and power handling. The cone on a larger diameter driver must be stronger / thicker than a smaller diameter unit, the voice coils are massive to handle large power inputs, the suspensions are stiffer and heavier to keep things centered and prevent overshoot, fight against gravity over time, etc. Most pro audio and car audio subs are built to take a lot of abuse. This is why a pro audio 15" woofer might have a MMS of 80g but a true subwoofer might have an mms >250g. Even though the 2 might have a similar FS and Xmax rating or even power handling, they are still suited to different jobs. The 80g 15" woofer is not going to fare as well in a FLH or other high output high pressure loading.
  8. Hi all, I'm a writer for Linus Tech Tips and we are very interested in building an Othorn (21SW152-4 already ordered). I'm wondering if there's any chance someone has a SolidWorks model available? The PDF and DXF files earlier in this thread are great, but a SW model would be a huge time save and greatly appreciated. Also considering the Skram as an alternative to the Othorn as the Skram thread has SLDPRT files already. Thank you!
  9. ipal 18 ihave 2 i can get 2 more i chang my tops to 4 -6.5 and 2 radian 2 inch 950 and 6 -12 6338 mc in top box and im using 2-15 rub 6142 mc cauely asideso im looking to go from 20hz to 50hz
  10. Hi, been following for years. Lookin to build the highest density/efficiency/linearity system that will fit in my 8x8x6 garage in the back of my tour bus and with cabinets that can be carried by two people. Leaning towards split SK horns coupled with PM60's, lake DSP and powersoft or QSC amps. Chose the PM60 over the 90's so that my friends and I can combine for an array when we get together. Has anyone tried a setup like this or have any other suggestions on a top of the art DIY rig for bass music? Of course the paraflex community gets a lot of hype but by the numbers, I can't see how this wouldn't be better? Humble thanks.
  11. By "lack of cone control", do you mean non linearity in the translation from electrical to kinetic energy or do you mean cone flex? The former can be remedied by a stronger motor, the latter through a stiffer cone. Both problems are challenges to the designer, not to the end user. Any properly designed driver will play predictably based on the Klippel graphs. For B&C drivers I think it's the Xvar value, which is a general rule of thumb for when the driver behaviour will transition into non-linear territory. If this was a huge issue, big drivers wouldn't be so popular.
  12. Thought I might as well bring it up in this thread being it's about a design involving big-diameter woofers: How much of a problem is lack of cone control with large diameter woofers (say, +15"), also known as "wobbling"? Is it a problem mostly with very high excursion, typically no more than moderately sensitive woofers, or is it a general phenomenon and problem even with more efficient pro woofers like the 21" variants used in the Skram, Skhorn and Othorn? How much does it matter sonically and for overall performance? Is it even a real issue, and does it warrant designs using instead a multitude of smaller, say, 12" woofers compared to fewer 18" or 21" dittos?
  13. I always forget how lucky we are here in Australia to have 240v as the default. Not that i'm using enough power yet to max out the power supply anyway
  14. Did you do those tests yourself? How was the M-Drive set up, did it was an additional heatsink/ventilation or just the module by itself with its two small fans?
  15. ok bruv got you I can see the difference https://www.powersoft.com/en/products/amp-modules/m-drive
  16. The 3000pfc's datasheet states 4000W of total (symmetrical?) power output, which would underpower 2 drivers, let alone 4. If you wanna use 2 21ds115's to the maximum of their capabilities you will need pretty much twice as much as the Digimods are capable of. I ran my FP13000 unlimited&bridged into the Skhorn (4R) no issues (music, not sine waves). That's a bit overkill, but I'm trying to run 4 drivers off one amp, which the M-Drive seems to be a good match for.
  17. try check the DigiMod 3000PFC+3000AMP with this you can use DSP-D and DSP-4 and add the big heatsink , https://www.powersoft.com/en/products/amp-modules/digimod-3000pfc i guess this would run you a pair
  18. Interesting experiment for sure. My personal take away is use 240v if available. If you don't have access you can still get solid performance from 120v plugs, just ensure you aren't overloading your amplifiers with too many speakers. On 120v I run 1 amplifier per 2 skrams on a 4ohm load and can achieve likely 90-95% of what can be achieved using 240v. don't expect to get the most of tough 2ohm loads from 120volt. Of course with 120v you will draw twice the amperage, deal with more heat and that may but extra strain on your gear.
  19. Yea, certainly good for a no-compromises build for maximum output density. I feel like the M-Drive should be powerful enough to drive two Skhorns when you load em with 22ds115's. I think I'll buy one to test, I need a good amp with the Powersoft feature set anyways. And I'd prefer active subs.
  20. Yeah it's nice to have options and this should slot right in there with the NSW and Ipal at the top of the heap but unfortunately prices for everything have gone crazy. NSW's used to be available for $650-700.
  21. I do like 240v for running big / multiple amps. Just seems to do a better job in most cases. Speaker gasket tape FTW! I use that for the hatches, handles, drivers, etc...Always good to have on hand.
  22. Might be worthwhile if using the 21-ipals or the NSW's. Lots of $$$$ for that rig though!
  23. Finally spent some sheckles to have a proper power panel build to run my amps on 240v which isn’t super common up here in most venues. While subtle, things felt a little cleaner and tight and amps ran noticeably cooler. We knocked some bottles off the wall of the bar which was a first so it seemed to have helped https://youtu.be/rqMiTLL15s8
  24. I got this gasket tape https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0792JGC2H/ Easier alternative for handles: https://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=H1105G for https://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=H1105
  25. From a build thread - that's what I did around the handle area - speaker gasket IIRC
  26. Hey everybody, I am wondering if and how you seal the area between your cabinet and handles, cable terminals and so on to minimize air leaks. I was thinking about using some 1mm neoprene sheet and was wondering if someone here has got experience with it or what you are using instead. Cheers!
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