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Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files


Ricci

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So good to see yous building already!! Liking your tweaks for easier construction without CNC, Jesal! Did you use 18mm ply for the vent dividers and does that even matter much (change of tuning freq.)? Also is it possible to just mount the driver without T-Nuts? They caused a lot of hassle in our last builds and we feel like we don't really need to take out drivers often.. 

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3 hours ago, Jesal said:

Port and horn divider/braces are all 12mm.

I don't use T-Nuts on any of my subs, just screwed in.

If it strips rotate the driver and screw to a new area.

Works for me, I never had to rotate it yet.

Same for me. I'd prefer screwing directly into the wood. I change drivers often and do the exact same thing. If the screw holes strip I'll either go to a larger diameter screw if there is room in the driver frame, or simply rotate the driver and make new holes. This is one advantage of ply over MDF. Screwing directly into MDF is risky.

BTW good work on the cabs. That's a lot of pocket screws!

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Off-topic (not sure whether a new thread would validate my inquiry; this thread seems the one to most closely resemble its "madness"-level): have any of you guys heard of the Norwegian-developed "Shyhorn" subs? They're fitted with a 24"(!) Precision Devices PD.2450, and take up some ~28 cubic feet (i.e.: 800 liters). I've seen some measurements (if I recall correctly they're to be found via below build-thread link, with written text in Norwegian), and it appears they load fully to 14Hz and extend cleanly to over 150Hz - quite impressive..! I can't quite figure out the specific horn profile used, and what the sensitivity rating is (I'd assume no higher than 95dB's, certainly not above the driver's rated sensitivity), but the horn mouth is located just above the tilted P.D. driver. 

https://www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/mitt-anlegg-og-billedtra-der/92723-ivaols-hjemmekino.html

ShyHorn.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Kyle said:

awe... maybe its a bassmaxx style where the driver is open on one side, other size is a horn. If thats the case, I can't see this 14Hz because of cancellation at long wavelength, but I don't really know :)

 

Me neither, but likely you better :)

Anyway, won't derail this thread any further with the ShyHorn. Interesting sub though..

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Kvalsvoll is a member here...Discussing his products for sale is kinda off topic for this thread. What he has going are not "technically" horns but that's just semantics that doesn't really matter in the scheme of things. The tuned resonators being employed are the most interesting aspect of them to me, because they aren't employed very often,  but they do increase the size and complexity of the system. Not sure I would call them compact relative to the driver compliment in the cabinets, but I would like to see things like measured impedance, voltage sensitivity, distortion, compression and group delay on one of his designs.

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On 4/29/2019 at 6:07 PM, Ricci said:

Kvalsvoll is a member here...Discussing his products for sale is kinda off topic for this thread. What he has going are not "technically" horns but that's just semantics that doesn't really matter in the scheme of things. The tuned resonators being employed are the most interesting aspect of them to me, because they aren't employed very often,  but they do increase the size and complexity of the system. Not sure I would call them compact relative to the driver compliment in the cabinets, but I would like to see things like measured impedance, voltage sensitivity, distortion, compression and group delay on one of his designs.

If you have questions about my designs, you can ask in the Room2-thread, I may even answer.

As for this specific construction pictured above here, that is not something I sell or build, this is a diy based on technical input provided by me.

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19 hours ago, Kvalsvoll said:

If you have questions about my designs, you can ask in the Room2-thread, I may even answer.

As for this specific construction pictured above here, that is not something I sell or build, this is a diy based on technical input provided by me.

Cool...I didn't translate and read the thread. I did have a brief look at your website. It appears you are selling subwoofers or will be soon? I don't care if your stuff is discussed. By all means do so, but I don't think the Skram thread is the best place for their discussion. It appears that member Alexel may have questions.

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On ‎5‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 9:56 AM, dsl1 said:

Tried some white duratex. Kind of cool.

oOK0yia.jpg

Two boxes are done. Driver fits! May put one more coat of duratex on. The white doesn't cover as well.

I like that. I've never seen the white Duratex in person. I wonder how badly scratches and scuffs will show up?

Drivers fit! Yes! Solidworks said they would but you never know. How bad was screwing them in?

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1 hour ago, Ricci said:

Cool...I didn't translate and read the thread. I did have a brief look at your website. It appears you are selling subwoofers or will be soon? I don't care if your stuff is discussed. By all means do so, but I don't think the Skram thread is the best place for their discussion. It appears that member Alexel may have questions.

No place for this in this thread, regardless of what is for sale or not. Go to the Room2-thread, I will make a comment there.

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On 5/2/2019 at 9:56 AM, dsl1 said:

Tried some white duratex. Kind of cool.

oOK0yia.jpg

Two boxes are done. Driver fits! May put one more coat of duratex on. The white doesn't cover as well.

That Skram looks awesome, ready for business especially with the green background :)

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XipXg8h.png

yrO2sNq.png

 

@Ricci - driver bolting was actually quite easy on this one. My impact driver fit nicely under the brace and the handles aren't in the way of the bolts.

I did not try putting the driver in with the handles already attached, but you should be able to do it. 

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5 hours ago, dsl1 said:

XipXg8h.png

yrO2sNq.png

 

@Ricci - driver bolting was actually quite easy on this one. My impact driver fit nicely under the brace and the handles aren't in the way of the bolts.

I did not try putting the driver in with the handles already attached, but you should be able to do it. 

Hell yeah man. Like a glove. Did you use threaded inserts?

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