Jump to content
Droogne

Dayton Audio Ultimax UM18-22 in a 24 cuft enclosure: what design?

What design?  

3 members have voted

  1. 1. What design would fit the best with this driver and (fixed) enclosure volume?

    • Single driver, sealed
      0
    • Doubledrivers, sealed
      1
    • Triple drivers, sealed
      0
    • Single driver, ported
      0
    • Double drivers, ported
      2
    • Single driver with Passive Radiators
      0


Recommended Posts

24 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

Actually, the whole system is quite underpowered but that's okay because I make up a lot with the very high sensitivity. Having a subbass system that is >100dB sensitive means cool running amps too. :D

I didn't really calculate the amount of power /sub, as I read your AVS thread after posting this! But still lot of (absolute) power, maybe not relatively, but hey with a +db sensitivity you're good to go ;) just put the finishing touches on my PA sub, so gonna be testing it tomorrow! It doesn't dig deep, but it does have a 105db sensitivity ö It's a shame my exams are getting closer and I literally don't have any time to listen to it :( 

24 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

There are seven subbass enclosures in my HT room. Six identical dual-opposed sealed enclosures. Four up front, two in rear. Each approx. 8cuft each. Four up front house the eight Stereo Integrity HT18's.

You might not believe me, but I've read your build few times now, and Ive never noticed those 18"'ers in the front lol, they are so black! Are those all 15"ers for your LCR? So 12x 15" and 8x 18"s, in the front? :P I think I love you. qIElAdr.jpg

24 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

The two in the rear house four Sound Splinter RLp18's. Then the riser with the last two SS RLp18's.

What was the purpose of the 2 rear subs? Just extra output? Or also a kind of NF experience? 

24 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

The riser is very simple. Top and bottom are just some 5/8" or 3/4" plywood. I don't remember exactly. *laughs* Not even really high end stuff either but solid. The walls are made from 2x8's cut to the length I wanted for this size.

There is a single 2x4 in the middle (running between the two drivers). The extra baffle pieces were added to accommodate the depth of the RLp driver.

How much place did you leave behind the drivers? Or, how high is the riser from the floor up to the baffle? Doesn't seem to high!

24 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

The riser is the only enclosure I've ever built that I didn't really "design". Just thought it up in my head and then simulated to "make sure". Certainly couldn't simulate how it was going to feel. Had to build it to really know for sure.

I'm guessing, if I want to pull this of I'll have to take the actual in room size of the riser as a priority, and the "ideal" enclosure as a second. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, Droogne said:

I didn't really calculate the amount of power /sub, as I read your AVS thread after posting this! But still lot of (absolute) power, maybe not relatively, but hey with a +db sensitivity you're good to go ;) just put the finishing touches on my PA sub, so gonna be testing it tomorrow! It doesn't dig deep, but it does have a 105db sensitivity ö It's a shame my exams are getting closer and I literally don't have any time to listen to it :( 

You will. Exams end eventually. ;)

40 minutes ago, Droogne said:

You might not believe me, but I've read your build few times now, and Ive never noticed those 18"'ers in the front lol, they are so black! Are those all 15"ers for your LCR? So 12x 15" and 8x 18"s, in the front? :P I think I love you.

Aww. :wub:

Yep. Lots of surface area. Proper midbass reproduction. :D

40 minutes ago, Droogne said:

What was the purpose of the 2 rear subs? Just extra output? Or also a kind of NF experience? 

First-most, they are there for front/rear sub blending. Used for smoothing the response of the whole. At the time, there was no intention of a sub riser so in a way I thought they would be "nearfield" but I chose to take that road after every one else started putting their subs AT their seat. Like, 1" away. So I can't really call them nearfield these days cuz they are about 3-4ft away. The subriser is the nearfield sub.... now.

40 minutes ago, Droogne said:

How much place did you leave behind the drivers? Or, how high is the riser from the floor up to the baffle? Doesn't seem to high!

It's not. Just a step up.

Idk... about an inch or so behind the motor. Plenty of room around the drivers though.

40 minutes ago, Droogne said:

I'm guessing, if I want to pull this of I'll have to take the actual in room size of the riser as a priority, and the "ideal" enclosure as a second. 

No. Not necessarily. You have the opportunity to actually choose your drivers. I had two on hand and made it work. My riser both fits into the room and is ideally sized.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

You will. Exams end eventually. ;)

Thats a fact, after those are done I have a few weeks/months I can focus 100% on the platform. 

3 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

Aww. :wub:

Yep. Lots of surface area. Proper midbass reproduction. :D

I'm having a few pairs (2 or maybe even 3) of LaScalas build, should give me that awesome midbass! Depends on how the future goes, but might even use a stack of those/ speaker. First my K-402 h

3 minutes ago, Infrasonic said:

It's not. Just a step up.

Idk... about an inch or so behind the motor. Plenty of room around the drivers though.

No. Not necessarily. You have the opportunity to actually choose your drivers. I had two on hand and made it work. My riser both fits into the room and is ideally sized.

If I use an inch, instead of 2, and place the woofers on top + maybe even get another couch/modify the one I have now (so I would have space between the ground/riser floor and the actual seatings) I might get away with a riser that only rises the couch by 2/3 foot(or less) when using an 18". Should be a lot more easy to place/convince the roommate off. It would also be ideal to use as a riser for a second couch when I want to convert the living into a full blown home-theatre for mass viewings. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 14-12-2017 at 7:43 PM, Infrasonic said:

You will. Exams end eventually. ;)

You know, I have a 1000 projects going through my mind that I want to do. I just build my first flat pack, which gives me a good idea of how to get into building one myself. It was not a particularly complex one, but it was a horn loaded sub though. Which mean lots of corners, which had to be airtight. Made some mistakes, but it was a good experience as I now know how to fix them ;) Pretty confident I can build any riser I want. Have also found a seller for my pair of Chorus II (Klipsch) for a crazy sum, which gives me the budget to upgrade the active crossover of my LaScalas (to a Xilica). More importantly, it might lift up the need to go for a cheaper sub than the UM18-22 (which is a great sub for the sealed riser, but also seems immensely good in a ported enclosure. By my calculations it could be tuned to 12hz in a 1000L enclosure which is ofcourse to big, but it could still go down to 15hz in a "reasonable" 494L).

That way I could build both the ported and sealed and see how I like them, if I like both I can order another one. Or maybe another 3 ;) 

 

Just took some  measurements of my couch, and sad to say.. my main couch exists out of several different parts and doesn't really invite baffles that protrude into the couch. I could manage a 12" into the main seating place (which has a feet/leg extension thingy, not sure how to call it in English which makes it extremly dificult to fit something in), and a 15" into the "second" place. Those 2 places are the only ones that matter). I do however have found out that one of the side couches, which I could easily move into the sweet spot, could be what I need. I could stuff a box under it without having to rise it by more than 6cm. I would get a 125L enclosure, which is not very big though. It might just work.. 

 

It raises a question however: is it possible to let the sub protrude into the couch, with almost no place on each side? Like stuffing a 50cmx50cm enclosure into a 51cm x 58cm opening into my couch. The air moved by the sub would have almost nowhere to go, which kinda seems like a bad idea (although it can leave through the small 7 and 1cm cracks on the side + through the seating which is just a cushion). I'm only asking because it would  be the only way to have an 18" sub build into one of my couches.

EDIT: @Infrasonic , I think I overexplained myself a bit. I'm known to go one ramblings about everything, but when done in English about this kind of stuff I'm not beginning to guess how hard it is to understand what I'm actually trying to say. I'm over complicating things haha! Things are also changing all the time, so my mind is all over the place, trying things out and looking for ways to improve. Buuuut, maybe something to add to my big chunk text above here? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×