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Best amp equivalent to inuke6000 without the rolloff

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Inuke is the best value you can buy right now. You need to spend more money, almost double to get something from a reputable amplifier company. You get what you pay for. Inuke would be hard to beat. Nexy up is maybe the Peavey IPR2 7500. Ater that its a matter of what do you want to spend.

 

I dont like berry products so for me the best value sub amp is Bosso's 14K amplifier for maybe 1700. BUT this is a lot more power than 3000 per channel. And the Inuke doesnt even do 3000 per channel

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I recommend it but most don't care for the Europower amps anymore when you can get an inuke 6000 for roughly the same price, 1/3 the weight and effectively twice the power for the same application. I have several EP4k's and would recommend them but by today's standards ... a bit outdated.

 

There are no better choices in the ~$300 range than a Behringer. You're going to have to spend more or get the inuke or EP.

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I like the 6000 better than the 4000 or 2500. Two channels for the price of one, light, and mine goes deep. Of course I don't need over 2000 watts per channel.

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I sell the SpeakerPower amps and find them to be some of the best amps available for subs but they aren't inexpensive. I will say I'm not familiar with Bosso's amps so I'm not comparing them. But when someone asks me for a less expensive sub amp, I usually recommend the Peavey IPR2-7500 or the slightly beefier twin amp in the Crest Prolite 7.5. Of course both of these are more expensive than the iNuke amps but they are definitely better for subs.

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Just curious but what about the Crest Pro-Lite DSP amps?  The DSP 5.0 has a decent amount of wattage, some build in PEQ for each channel and isnt too horribly expensive.....

 

Dont "think" it has rolloff below 20hz, but I'm no expert here...

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The RMX amps were rated down to 5 Hz, the new QSC website and amp lines do not provide as much useful information as the previous iterations.

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The 6000 is -3 dB at 5hz so I am not sure what the problem is.  If you need more power then you need to spend some money. My Sanway was -3 dB at 3hz and differences are not noticed.  Now if you need more power than 1200 watts at 5hz then again, you need to spend more than twice the money for 3 dB more or 2400 watts at 5hz.  Did I say I love my IB which lets me use any amp! 

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Just curious but what about the Crest Pro-Lite DSP amps?  The DSP 5.0 has a decent amount of wattage, some build in PEQ for each channel and isnt too horribly expensive.....

 

Dont "think" it has rolloff below 20hz, but I'm no expert here...

 

The DSP On the pro-lites is a waste of time. Very crude and I would highly advise saving your money there and going for an outboard solution. The prolite series without the DSP is great though...assuming you don't want to operate at 2 ohm stereo.

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The DSP On the pro-lites is a waste of time. Very crude and I would highly advise saving your money there and going for an outboard solution. The prolite series without the DSP is great though...assuming you don't want to operate at 2 ohm stereo.

 

Thanks for letting me know.  I'm thinking about stepping down a bit driver quality wise to the Dayton Ultimax 18's instead of the HST-18's.  They dont really need as much power and if you aren't boosting a lot below 20hz perform "close" SPL wise to the HST.  And they are a bit cheaper as well.

 

So with the UM18's I'd likely be looking at a set of Crown XLS1500's or 2000's (bridged)

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Thanks for letting me know.  I'm thinking about stepping down a bit driver quality wise to the Dayton Ultimax 18's instead of the HST-18's.  They dont really need as much power and if you aren't boosting a lot below 20hz perform "close" SPL wise to the HST.  And they are a bit cheaper as well.

 

So with the UM18's I'd likely be looking at a set of Crown XLS1500's or 2000's (bridged)

 Nope, I would suggest against that completely. Those crowns are good for mains duty, but they aren't going to give you the extension down low and umph you need in a bass system. Stick with a peavey or crest. Trust me. I will be selling one of mine shortly, let me know if you are interested. 

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What are replacing it with? With your subs you need a Crest 9001 per cabinet. Who cares if it weighs as much as a Honda Civic and can heat the whole house. :)

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What are replacing it with? With your subs you need a Crest 9001 per cabinet. Who cares if it weighs as much as a Honda Civic and can heat the whole house. :)

 

A-14k for the win :D Hopefully putting it in this weekend! Looked at that 9001. 110 pounds net. Daggum! 

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A-14k for the win :D Hopefully putting it in this weekend! Looked at that 9001. 110 pounds net. Daggum! 

 

That'll be a really nice upgrade.  More sustained power and wayyyy more burst power. 

 

You'll have to be a little careful not to cook the HT18s! 

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That'll be a really nice upgrade.  More sustained power and wayyyy more burst power. 

 

You'll have to be a little careful not to cook the HT18s! 

 

I am a little nervous about that. If something bad happens, I guess I will have to weigh some other options :D HST's sound good, the ds4 sounds solid too :D 

 

Are you running the Hst's or HT-18's? Both? Can't wait to see the spec lab changes!

 

HT18's up front, HST's nearfield. The HST's will stay on the peavey or crest. 

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So you are going to run all 8 HT-18's on the A14K in 4 ohm?  Bridged? When I ran my 8 front HT-18s on the Sanway it was fine running 12 dB hot.  I have an IB type box and a small room. Once I added the LT circuit 6 dB hot would trip my 20 amp breaker during Lone Survivor which is a 1 minute sustained 6hz monster.  Your subs are in smaller boxes so it could take more power but the room is larger, just step up the volume slowly and see where the limits are, especially with the LT.  I lose 6 dB from the front wall to my seats, I can see the A14K being too powerful but if you are bottoming the 8x18's the bass should be crazy at that point, if not it gives you a good excuse to change to HSTs. 


 


Oh, my front 8 subs are supposedly wired for a single 2 ohm load but my Inuke 6000 and Sanway both ran it well. I obviously don't require all the power from the amps.  Before you switch you should get some spec lab results from some movies with your mic and then when you switch do it again to compare.  Spec lab is just too cool. 


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