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nyt

By nyt
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nyt Power Member

nyt

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Yeah, I'll be posting, just not there.  I'm ordering a track saw since these are some monster cuts and I want perfect edges.  Will start once I get it.  It's a shame they're such twats, because the community there was generally good.  I'll miss talking to a bunch of people there.  Oh well.

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lukeamdman Bass Overlord

lukeamdman

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For the monster horns, I just used a 60" straight edge and a circular saw.  I intentionally cut the pieces 1/16" to large, so there would be a small "lip" on the edge so I could take a flush trim bit to them with my router.  The flush trim bit is amazing, and the final cut doesn't even require sanding it's so good!

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nyt Power Member

nyt

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Yeah I generally hit stuff with a flush bit, but not all edges are able to be flushed, some have to meet the large surface.  I've wanted a track saw for a while since even with a guide a normal circular saw is kind of wobbly.  I ordered a makita, gets here Friday, so hopefully I'll get some building done this weekend.

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nyt Power Member

nyt

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I have a tablesaw too, but it's not going to give me as nice cuts 46" into a 4'x8' board.  I've been wanting a track saw for a while now, grabbed the makita.  I wasn't about to pay an extra $200 for the festool when I don't use any other stuff from their systems.

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lilmike Ultra Member

lilmike

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Yeah, I'll be posting, just not there.  I'm ordering a track saw since these are some monster cuts and I want perfect edges.  Will start once I get it.  It's a shame they're such twats, because the community there was generally good.  I'll miss talking to a bunch of people there.  Oh well.

 

Tracksaws are the ONLY way to work with sheet goods. I love my EurekaZone setup. I turned my tablesaw on ONCE during the initial MicroWrecker build, and all it took was one cut to remind me why I don't like using it. 

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tuxedocivic Ultra Member

tuxedocivic

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Tracksaws are the ONLY way to work with sheet goods. I love my EurekaZone setup. I turned my tablesaw on ONCE during the initial MicroWrecker build, and all it took was one cut to remind me why I don't like using it. 

 

I have a tablesaw too, but it's not going to give me as nice cuts 46" into a 4'x8' board.  I've been wanting a track saw for a while now, grabbed the makita.  I wasn't about to pay an extra $200 for the festool when I don't use any other stuff from their systems.

 

Sheets shouldn't be a problem with a 500lb vintage iron saw with a large infeed and outfeed table. But then again, that takes up a good chunk of shop space where as a track saw just takes up a some space on a shelf. I'm just jelous :D Oh and I agree buying the Festool seems like overpriced name buying. Everything Makita I've ever owned has been amazing. Excellent service too. I bought some odd parts for my 30 year old planer and they were super helpful.

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lilmike Ultra Member

lilmike

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I have a proper cabinet saw, I've owned it for years. I just lack the infeed and outfeed area to use it safely when I am working with sheet goods. I'd need to dedicate about 1/3 of my shop to just the table saw to rip a 4X8, which simply won't happen, mainly because I do too many other things in there. With my tracksaw, I can break down sheets as they come off the truck tailgate. Slide them out of the truck right onto the cutting table, then rip and crosscut the pieces to size right there. I can rip a full 4X8 in 10 feet. 

 

When I first got my tracksaw, I thought I'd be "cleaning up" all of my rough cuts with my tablesaw. I've not had to do that yet, in fact - I use the tracksaw to clean up the factory edges on the sheets, as well as square the sheets up.

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maxmercy Ultra Bass Overlord

maxmercy

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I have a proper cabinet saw, I've owned it for years. I just lack the infeed and outfeed area to use it safely when I am working with sheet goods.

 

My wife has been waaaaayyy too nice in helping me do just that, and we got lucky no accidents ever happened.  tons of infeed/outfeed rollers, and human movement with crap cuts to boot.  I can't wait to fire up mine.

 

The question is: where do you find a square large enough and accurate enough to square large panels?

 

JSS

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nyt Power Member

nyt

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My wife has been waaaaayyy too nice in helping me do just that, and we got lucky no accidents ever happened.  tons of infeed/outfeed rollers, and human movement with crap cuts to boot.  I can't wait to fire up mine.

 

The question is: where do you find a square large enough and accurate enough to square large panels?

 

JSS

 

You can use maths.  When opposite diagonal measurements are equal, and your opposite sides are all the same length, you're square.  You can also use the 3-4-5 trick.

 

Or just use a good t-square

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lilmike Ultra Member

lilmike

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My wife has been waaaaayyy too nice in helping me do just that, and we got lucky no accidents ever happened.  tons of infeed/outfeed rollers, and human movement with crap cuts to boot.  I can't wait to fire up mine.

 

The question is: where do you find a square large enough and accurate enough to square large panels?

 

JSS

I made one. I used the 3-4-5 trick to get close, then I cut scrap and flipped one side to double the error. Once you can see it, you can adjust the square by half the error until the pieces fit lights-out on a test cut.

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lilmike Ultra Member

lilmike

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Great idea! What material did you use to make it?

 

JSS

 

I used 1-1/2" by 1/8" flat steel strap, cause it was cheaper than aluminum, and I wasn't 100% sure it would work how I wanted it to. Next one will be aluminum.

 

It is a dead-simple tool to make, but accuracy counts. I cut three pieces, 39", 51", and 63", then drilled 5/16" holes on the strap centerline EXACTLY 36" apart in the 39" one, leaving about the same amount of extra on each end, EXACTLY 48" apart in the 51" one, and EXACTLY 60" apart in the 63" piece. I chose 5/16" cause I had a good bit, as well as some 5/16" bolts that have a short unthreaded shank. So long as the holes are tight on the bolts you use, any size will work. I dropped the bolts in, then ran a nut down to tighten things up so I could mark the parts that overhang. I trimmed the parts of each piece that stuck out on the corners so that I have flat reference surfaces on the 3 foot and 4 foot sides.

 

In use - the 4-foot arm is in the middle, I put the 3 foot arm on the bottom and the 5 foot arm on top. I leave the bolts in the 3-4 and 4-5 corners, just leave them loose enough to allow the arms to pivot. Pivot the arms out until the 3-5 corner holes line up, then bolt that one up, you're set to go. This setup is pretty much as square as you can make in a home shop. Pull the bolt at the 3-5 corner and it folds up for storage - 5 feet long, 1.5" wide, and under a half-inch thick.

 

I use this "square" to align my cross-cutting squares for my tracksaw (Small one has a 36" track and a 24" squaring fence, the big one has a 60" track with a 30" squaring fence, but they're both gonna evolve real soon), as well as align the track on my saw table. I'm sure I'll drag it out as the "judge" when I check the framers' work during my remodel too, framing is still a little ways off though.  

 

Edit - clarification

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