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Bosso inspired D.O. 15HST


chrapladm

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When applying an L/T to the simulations on a 2.7cuft, 3.4cuft and 5cuft all the responses are identical. All take about 1500watts to hit 30mm. And yes I know that they actually use more wattage than this but I am just saying what was on the input screen for my WinISD.

 

seems like an interesting project for the 'most bass from the least space'.

as you may know, each 3db of L/T requires double power.

to a first order approximation, doubling the size of a VSSS (very small sealed sub) will increase sensitivity 3db, so about half as much power is required to hit the same excursion on the very bottom end.

i don't know what number nick is putting on the drivers for warranty-power purposes, so that may or may not be something that figures into your design.

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seems like an interesting project for the 'most bass from the least space'.

as you may know, each 3db of L/T requires double power.

to a first order approximation, doubling the size of a VSSS (very small sealed sub) will increase sensitivity 3db, so about half as much power is required to hit the same excursion on the very bottom end.

i don't know what number nick is putting on the drivers for warranty-power purposes, so that may or may not be something that figures into your design.

 

1500watts rms is the figure. I dont really care about that number at all.I have never worried about over powering my speakers. I am my own warranty has been my philosophy for many years. But yes I was looking at trying for 5cuft since Bosso mentioned it. That would keep Needed watts down some what :)

Mine were just under 3cuft each, with 2 pillows per cab.  Ended up not needing an L/T at all, somehow - flat to 5Hz after EQ in the miniDSP. 

 

aftereq.jpg

 

Must have gotten lucky with the signal chain.

Yes that looks quite nice. I will start building my cabinet in about a month. Would be sooner if my engine didnt seize on me and had to be replaced. :( Is your room a dedicated HT with this response?

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  • 1 month later...

seems like an interesting project for the 'most bass from the least space'.

as you may know, each 3db of L/T requires double power.

to a first order approximation, doubling the size of a VSSS (very small sealed sub) will increase sensitivity 3db, so about half as much power is required to hit the same excursion on the very bottom end.

i don't know what number nick is putting on the drivers for warranty-power purposes, so that may or may not be something that figures into your design.

 

I'm putting as much power as possible out of an iNuke 6000. Except for 10 Hz and below the drivers handle it without any issues at all. Now having said that, I do rate the woofers for considerably less than I am sending them. I do that to cover my arse. Here's the deal - if I rate a driver for 1000 watts every customer is going to put 2000 watts on it. Then when they blow the woofer they will swear that they had exactly 1000 watts of power on it and they used an o-scope. I know this because I've been in the industry for 15 years and it's the same thing every time. 

 

Now if I was TRYING to blow the two HST-11's up by running a 60 Hz test tone at full tilt for a solid minute or more I would expect them to fail. Much like one would expect a new car to fail if they took it home and pegged it off the rev limiter for an hour. But while playing music and knowing that the speaker is not indestructable my amount of power is perfectly fine. 

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Awesome project man. I'm sure it will come out fantastic. Can't wait to see the results!

Its been very slow progress as of late. A lot of expenses came up that were not expected. (Car engine blown) So things are very slowly going back to normal. In the next month I am going to start building the baffles. Will be triple layered 18mm. Once I get those cut I will start wrapping 2.7mm ply. One layer at a time. Will also have one internal middle brace and thats about it for the most part.

 

Then after this is done and I purchase the other 15, I will have to save and then purchase the Booso amp. Cant wait.

 

And just to keep me happy for a little while saving money I am going to take a stab at designing and building a few FLH's. One for a 21 I have and one for a dual 18.

 

 

Nick have you had a play with the V2 mega roll surrounds and standard SPL rolls?

 

Curious what you thought on these surrounds as far as HT applications? Or maybe I should PM you this question?

 

I asked you a question on the Zv3 and then read about these newer surrounds. Thanks either way.

 

Here is a pick from Jacob

IMAG1671.jpg

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Its been very slow progress as of late. A lot of expenses came up that were not expected. (Car engine blown) So things are very slowly going back to normal. In the next month I am going to start building the baffles. Will be triple layered 18mm. Once I get those cut I will start wrapping 2.7mm ply. One layer at a time. Will also have one internal middle brace and thats about it for the most part.

 

Then after this is done and I purchase the other 15, I will have to save and then purchase the Booso amp. Cant wait.

 

And just to keep me happy for a little while saving money I am going to take a stab at designing and building a few FLH's. One for a 21 I have and one for a dual 18.

 

 

Nick have you had a play with the V2 mega roll surrounds and standard SPL rolls?

 

Curious what you thought on these surrounds as far as HT applications? Or maybe I should PM you this question?

 

I asked you a question on the Zv3 and then read about these newer surrounds. Thanks either way.

 

Here is a pick from Jacob

IMAG1671.jpg

 

I use the original Mega Roll surround for many reasons. I do not like any of the other surrounds that Jacob uses on his products for various reasons. The other cones and surrounds work for his customers but they do not work well for HT applications. The SPL surround is apparently made of concrete, the v2 is very stiff, and the Zv3 surround does not allow for enough excursion to work on the HST motor and it is also fairly stiff. Again for Jake's customers all of those surrounds have their application but they are poor choices for HT use. 

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I figured as much.

 

Also after reading Ricci's noted on the 18HST do you think the 15HST has more Mech Xmax?

 

I am not designing for that it was just a question regarding if the spider landing was indeed deeper than the 18" and there for had a larger spec? 64mm perhaps?

 

Only curious as I am designing my subs for 30mm and calling it a day.

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I figured as much.

 

Also after reading Ricci's noted on the 18HST do you think the 15HST has more Mech Xmax?

 

I am not designing for that it was just a question regarding if the spider landing was indeed deeper than the 18" and there for had a larger spec? 64mm perhaps?

 

Only curious as I am designing my subs for 30mm and calling it a day.

 

Both the HST-15 and the HST-18 use a 10" diameter spider. The 15 does have a tad more clearance overall  - more room from flange to spider and also spider to motor. Jake's new baskets really did punch a hole straight through the industry for high-excursion capability. Jake's 12" and "10" inch baskets murder the Ti baskets of the same size for clearances but the 18" Ti basket is still very nice all the way around. 

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Both the HST-15 and the HST-18 use a 10" diameter spider. The 15 does have a tad more clearance overall  - more room from flange to spider and also spider to motor. Jake's new baskets really did punch a hole straight through the industry for high-excursion capability. Jake's 12" and "10" inch baskets murder the Ti baskets of the same size for clearances but the 18" Ti basket is still very nice all the way around. 

Well the 10 and 12 look very nice. :D  And his new 18" frame is a monster. With potentially 150mm P-P. WOW.

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I'm putting as much power as possible out of an iNuke 6000. Except for 10 Hz and below the drivers handle it without any issues at all.

Hey Nick :)

 

Did you see the measurements on the iNuke's recently?

 

https://www.avforums.com/threads/inuke-power-output-ulf.1950151/#post-21955825

 

if you are awash with spare cash or have access to borrowing one, it would be interesting to hear your subjective response with one of the 'old skool' big-iron power amps or the new-fangled amps like the SpeakerPower and Bosso amps!

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Hey Nick :)

 

Did you see the measurements on the iNuke's recently?

 

https://www.avforums.com/threads/inuke-power-output-ulf.1950151/#post-21955825

 

if you are awash with spare cash or have access to borrowing one, it would be interesting to hear your subjective response with one of the 'old skool' big-iron power amps or the new-fangled amps like the SpeakerPower and Bosso amps!

 

I don't want to sound cocky but those figures are about what I expected to see. ~1500 watts per channel averaged in the subwoofer bandwidth for the iNuke 6000. For the money it is a good amplifier with the EQ and DSP. Do I think it is what everyone should be using in their large rooms with multiple subwoofers and a killer front stage? No. The amp is cheap (literally) and you should not expect Ferrari performance for V6 Camaro money. 

 

Maybe I can get Bosso to bring up one of his monster amps when he and his son come up to take a listen to the DO HST-11's.  B)

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I don't want to sound cocky but those figures are about what I expected to see. ~1500 watts per channel averaged in the subwoofer bandwidth for the iNuke 6000. For the money it is a good amplifier with the EQ and DSP. The amp is cheap (literally) and you should not expect Ferrari performance for V6 Camaro money. 

 

+1. Behringer has a track record of their ratings being about twice what the amp can effectively do when compared to other MFG's ratings. When buying one of their amps cut the "watts" rating in half and that seems to be close. I wish everyone would start listing voltage and current capability instead of power.

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I've been posting for 15 years and one trend stands out as being unmistakable and unchangeable... DIYers are stupid cheap and overly delusional when it comes to power. :rolleyes:

 

They'll spend a small fortune to buy 30 of the latest uber-drivers, then power them with too few of the cheesiest amps on earth, plugged into a 15A outlet that's shared with the microwave oven. :P

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I've been posting for 15 years and one trend stands out as being unmistakable and unchangeable... DIYers are stupid cheap and overly delusional when it comes to power. :rolleyes:

 

They'll spend a small fortune to buy 30 of the latest uber-drivers, then power them with too few of the cheesiest amps on earth, plugged into a 15A outlet that's shared with the microwave oven. :P

 

This is so quote-worthy! I keep saying the same thing to SOOOO many customers only to have them run to the cheapest amp they can buy. I don't get it. I know why I purchased my iNuke and it was for a good reason. If my son was older I'd have one of Bosso's amps in my equipment rack but I can envision my son sticking a solid piece of copper into the fan opening of the amplifier as he gets more curious.  :P

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  • 4 months later...

SO it has been a while since I updated this thread. Nothing has been happening lately(other than almost divorced) but I am wanting to get started on the enclosure. Still going to be a slow process but the enclosure should move along quick enough. Still need to buy the second 15 from Nick. With the current exchange rate I am looking at about 825 dollars australian including shipping. And with the other issues going on in my life things have been very slow. I apologize for the delay Nick. I said I was going to buy one 3 months later and it has been much longer.:(

 

But thanks to Bosso for posting his GTG which I just read, I am going to get started on building my cabinet.

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