BOSSOBASS Raptor system 3

[Madaeel]

Haha it's there I know, but I have to turn it up a lot to feel it cuz of the concrete so I usually leave em off. I also don't get to play that much. I haven't been in my theater in two weeks. I just bought a crapload of movies off Amazon though. I'm gonna do a marathon this weekend and get some Speclab graphs up.

[chrapladm]

See and thats where it starts. "I dont need it and I would have to turn it up 30db's so I will just have a ported cabinet for my subs." J/K

 

I turn my amps on when I watch anything because I dont want to have it come on accidentally when the kids turn stuff on. Other wise I use always have it on. BUT I dont have four 15's+ for subs.

[SME]

I have mine in a closet now and just turn it on when I fire everything up. Though for TV and gaming I rarely turn it on just because there isn't much bass in either unless you really crank it up. A lot of guys bought relays for their pro amps. Notnyt made a thread in AVS' DIY section so anyone could buy the parts and build a small box for one and use the 12v triggers on your AVR or prepro for it. My PS4 is in the closet though so I open the door a couple times a day anyway so it's no big deal to me.

 

I know for me unless there's strong content below 10hz I'm pretty much safe on 99% of material. You could always watch something with strong ULF content, someting like HTTYD or WotW, and set it for that and be good with most material if you need to.

 

What are you using for subs now SME?

Thanks!  I may just deal with walking into the closet to flip the switch on to start with, but it's nice to know I at least have options.

 

As far as noise is concerned, has anyone measured the a14k?  I saw earlier discussion on this thread on the subject, but no one really quantified how much noise it puts out.  I'm just looking for a rough figure here since I don't expect much consistency in noise measurements from room to room.  My room has a pretty low noise floor most of the time, and I'd like to keep it that way.  I do a lot of low level listening after hours, and with the help of e.g. Audyssey Dynamic EQ, I can still enjoy the low end which is present in most of the music I listen to.

 

As for shutting it off in a panic, I'm not so concerned about content as I prefer to do just as you say.  However, while I'm getting things setup and particularly when messing with EQ filters, it might be a good idea to have the power button within easy reach.  That's how I prefer to do things, anyway.

 

Right now, I have a Hsu Research VTF-15H and VTF3-MK4.  I'm also using to MBM-MK2s.  IMO, all of these have done a fantastic job for the price I paid and were great "starter subs" for me.  I've even considered upgrading to the latest VTF-15H MK2, but the fact is that the performance increase isn't enough for me to justify it.  I want more extension, and sealed is the only way to do that.  I considered keeping them and adding dedicated sealed subs just for < 20 Hz bass, but my space constraints also make that unrealistic without a dedicated room.

 

So now I'm exploring the options for serious small sealed box deep bass performance.  Right now, I'm thinking along the lines of a pair of dual-opposed side-firing SI HST-18s or maybe a pair of single SI HS-24s.  As cool as it would be to own a 24" woofer, that woofer looks like it wants a bigger box than I can probably give it.  It also costs more, and I lose the benefits of the dual-opposed configuration.  The Bosso style cylinders look cool but are also not well suited to my placement requirements.

[Bossobass Dave]

Sorry, no 12V trigger for remote ON/OFF operation. We haven't looked into that as of yet. The proper sequence for ON/OFF is the A-14K is turned on last and turned off first and even with it's soft start circuit it's still a bit tricky to power on with the rest of the signal chain.

 

I don't know how to measure it's self noise. What is the standard? In itself, it add nothing to the ambient noise floor but the 5 cooling fans are definitely audible. We've worked hard on the cooling part of the puzzle and believe the fans are as quiet as practicable. Of course, less noise equals less CFM equals less cooling capability.

 

Space requirement is also something we've spent years more time on than anyone else in the universe. You can fit more firepower in a smaller footprint than any other solution using the Raptor.

[Bossobass Dave]

Here's a quick illustration of size to output comparison. The sub pictures and footprint graphics are fairly close to scale. The traces show max output curve vs max extension curve. There are, of course, 7 additional curves between those 2 traces.

 

The Hsu stuff is excellent. Dr. Hsu is a gentleman and a scholar and offers great packages that I've used in other's HTs over the years. But, .1 tech systems are designed and built for full bandwidth reproduction at reference level in any room, which is a unique niche as opposed to a mass market niche.

 

[Madaeel]

See and thats where it starts. "I dont need it and I would have to turn it up 30db's so I will just have a ported cabinet for my subs." J/K

 

I turn my amps on when I watch anything because I dont want to have it come on accidentally when the kids turn stuff on. Other wise I use always have it on. BUT I dont have four 15's+ for subs.

Haha no ported subs for me. Even if I ever do some near field subs they'd still be sealed. I have gobs of output just can't feel much below 10hz which is pretty standard for a concrete room.

 

No kids here and even if I did good luck opening that 150lb door.

 

Thanks!  I may just deal with walking into the closet to flip the switch on to start with, but it's nice to know I at least have options.

 

As far as noise is concerned, has anyone measured the a14k?  I saw earlier discussion on this thread on the subject, but no one really quantified how much noise it puts out.  I'm just looking for a rough figure here since I don't expect much consistency in noise measurements from room to room.  My room has a pretty low noise floor most of the time, and I'd like to keep it that way.  I do a lot of low level listening after hours, and with the help of e.g. Audyssey Dynamic EQ, I can still enjoy the low end which is present in most of the music I listen to.

 

As for shutting it off in a panic, I'm not so concerned about content as I prefer to do just as you say.  However, while I'm getting things setup and particularly when messing with EQ filters, it might be a good idea to have the power button within easy reach.  That's how I prefer to do things, anyway.

 

Right now, I have a Hsu Research VTF-15H and VTF3-MK4.  I'm also using to MBM-MK2s.  IMO, all of these have done a fantastic job for the price I paid and were great "starter subs" for me.  I've even considered upgrading to the latest VTF-15H MK2, but the fact is that the performance increase isn't enough for me to justify it.  I want more extension, and sealed is the only way to do that.  I considered keeping them and adding dedicated sealed subs just for < 20 Hz bass, but my space constraints also make that unrealistic without a dedicated room.

 

So now I'm exploring the options for serious small sealed box deep bass performance.  Right now, I'm thinking along the lines of a pair of dual-opposed side-firing SI HST-18s or maybe a pair of single SI HS-24s.  As cool as it would be to own a 24" woofer, that woofer looks like it wants a bigger box than I can probably give it.  It also costs more, and I lose the benefits of the dual-opposed configuration.  The Bosso style cylinders look cool but are also not well suited to my placement requirements.

Honestly when I listened to movies at Dave's house he has like 10,000 amps in the front of his room under the TV and even in quiet scenes I never heard a peep from any of them and they're all pro amps. I know you said you listen at lower levels but in a decent cabinet I think you'll be fine.

 

I leave my closet door open when I'm doing measuring and messing with the eq. That and watching a scene with single digit output. Would it be better if it were up front? Of course but I don't wanna see any lights when I fire up a movie. Personal preference but if it doesn't bother you I doubt you'll mind any slight noise you might hear.

 

I had the VTF-15H for a little bit and I loved that sub. I'll bet two of the Mk2 and the MBM's would be bliss.

 

Having said that sealed is the best. As long as you can take advantage of the feeling you get below 10hz and appreciate the full BW then there is no comparison.  Experiencing the Raptor system at Dave's house was a revelation. Four of the HST-18's would be killer and give you all the ULF you'd need. Your room isn't that big IIRC?

 

 

Sorry, no 12V trigger for remote ON/OFF operation. We haven't looked into that as of yet. The proper sequence for ON/OFF is the A-14K is turned on last and turned off first and even with it's soft start circuit it's still a bit tricky to power on with the rest of the signal chain.

Yah this is what I do so I don't get the thump. Again no big deal unless you're equipment is in another room.

 

Btw did Paul tell you there's a VERY strong possibility Jazzy and I are gonna move?? Custom home theater with floating floor so the Raptors only need to run 5db hot .  

[chrapladm]

Is the A14k stable below 2ohms?

 

I only ask because I was wanting to buy a A14K down the road for my D.O. 15's but am also building some horns for outdoors that will eventually have a single BC 21IPAL. That driver has a Re of .7ohms. I know the Sp12K can do the load but I will own a Bosso amp anyways so I was curious.

 

Where are you thinking of moving to? Same area different house or new everything?

[Madaeel]

Trying to find some land in the area and build custom that way it'll be exactly what we want. Yesterday, just for shits and giggles, I looked at homes up to $500k and even then there wasn't one house I'd buy that we wouldn't change something in. We love modern homes and that's just not done in our area. If we do find some land I'll have the proper home for the Raptors and a dream house for Jazzy and I. If not we'll just stay where we're at and still be content.

 

I know the A14K can do 2ohms. I'd imagine one driver at .7 shouldn't be a problem for that amp especially in a horn.

[chrapladm]

I figured Bosso would have pushed the limits of the amp so it was a chance that this could work on the 21IPAL but didnt want to push it either. Impedance of the 21IPAL in a horn is .7ohm so some amps will just turn off and some will be just fine. I know the SP12K can do it because Luke changed his 21's out of his Othorn's for 21IPALS and he has the SP12K. Anyways just curious is all.

 

I hear ya about house prices and what you want. I do that at times in my area and once I get past a certain number in my head I only think build. PLUS even when I go up to 1mil I still want to change some of the house.

[Madaeel]

Yah I'm sure Dave will chime in here but I can't imagine it being a problem. Though I'm not sure if he has ever ran it into a load that low before either. Guess we'll find out soon.

 

Yah prolly doesn't matter how much you spend. Unless you build it yourself it'll never be exactly what you want. I'm actually surprised at the costs of building a home. Not as bad as I thought it would be. Finding land is a pita though.

[SME]

Sorry, no 12V trigger for remote ON/OFF operation. We haven't looked into that as of yet. The proper sequence for ON/OFF is the A-14K is turned on last and turned off first and even with it's soft start circuit it's still a bit tricky to power on with the rest of the signal chain.

 

I don't know how to measure it's self noise. What is the standard? In itself, it add nothing to the ambient noise floor but the 5 cooling fans are definitely audible. We've worked hard on the cooling part of the puzzle and believe the fans are as quiet as practicable. Of course, less noise equals less CFM equals less cooling capability.

 

Interesting.  Is the thump problem experienced universally?  Or does it only occur with certain pre-amps/processors/AVRs?  I leave my current subs on all the time and never have thumps when I turn my AVR on and off.  OTOH, my MiniDSP 2x4 let's out a nasty DC thump on power off, but it stays plugged in all the time.

 

I'm not too concerned about the noise level measurement being standardized.  I'm not looking to compare this with another product but rather just get a rough idea of whether I should plan to install it in the closet or not.    FWIW, my listening position is 9 feet from the equipment, which may be closer than most.  My room is also very quiet when the HVAC is not running.

 

 

Space requirement is also something we've spent years more time on than anyone else in the universe. You can fit more firepower in a smaller footprint than any other solution using the Raptor.

 

Here's a quick illustration of size to output comparison. The sub pictures and footprint graphics are fairly close to scale. The traces show max output curve vs max extension curve. There are, of course, 7 additional curves between those 2 traces.

 

The Hsu stuff is excellent. Dr. Hsu is a gentleman and a scholar and offers great packages that I've used in other's HTs over the years. But, .1 tech systems are designed and built for full bandwidth reproduction at reference level in any room, which is a unique niche as opposed to a mass market niche.

 

 

Where my VTF-15H and VTF3-MK4 are located, I actually have a height restriction because (1) that off-limits part of the wall is a priority area for acoustic treatment; and (2) I'm seriously considering installing a drop-down acoustically transparent screen above them.  I want to keep my boxes under around 24 inches high.  The VTF-15H MK2s are just barely over that at 25 inches.

 

The Raptors would work better if I installed 15H MK2s where my current subs are and put the Raptors closer to the corner to handle the low-end of a tri-amped bass system.  Nowhere else in the room is suitable for both aesthetic and performance reasons.  I can think of a lot of reasons for doing this kind of setup, but it involves a lot more cost and equipment than is probably necessary.  Also, I understand that the Raptors are packaged with the SEQSS, which is mandated for their use to comply with warranty terms.  Do those warranty terms prohibit use of external EQ devices?  As you know I am fond of EQ, and I can totally understand you not wanting to provide warranty for the hardware under such circumstances.  (Then again, I might be perfectly happy with what the SEQSS provides if it's only handling bass < 20 Hz anyway.)

[SME]

Honestly when I listened to movies at Dave's house he has like 10,000 amps in the front of his room under the TV and even in quiet scenes I never heard a peep from any of them and they're all pro amps. I know you said you listen at lower levels but in a decent cabinet I think you'll be fine.

 

I leave my closet door open when I'm doing measuring and messing with the eq. That and watching a scene with single digit output. Would it be better if it were up front? Of course but I don't wanna see any lights when I fire up a movie. Personal preference but if it doesn't bother you I doubt you'll mind any slight noise you might hear.

 

I had the VTF-15H for a little bit and I loved that sub. I'll bet two of the Mk2 and the MBM's would be bliss.

 

Having said that sealed is the best. As long as you can take advantage of the feeling you get below 10hz and appreciate the full BW then there is no comparison.  Experiencing the Raptor system at Dave's house was a revelation. Four of the HST-18's would be killer and give you all the ULF you'd need. Your room isn't that big IIRC?

 

I'm not sure what constitutes a "decent" cabinet for controlling noise.  Mine is open on the front and back for ventilation; hence, there's no chance it's going to reduce any sound coming out of it.  My house is very quiet most of the time.  With very quiet content, I can hear the 120 Hz hum on my amp transformer.  I also have a PS3, and both my wife and I both find the PS3 to be distracting when it reads discs.  Thankfully the standalone Blu-ray player we bought when the PS3 started fussing about discs is a bit quieter.  Most annoying is my HVAC system, but I can't do anything about that in here.  So yes, I do prefer to minimize noise as much as possible.  (On the plus side, acoustic treatment helped a lot with reducing interference from of ambient noise.  Who woulda known?)

 

What I have now is bliss from 20 Hz on up, but it merely teases me from 12-20 Hz.    Because the VTF3-MK4 appears to be more aggressively tuned and has a steeper roll-off, I expect a pair of VTF-15H MK2s could get me -3 dB at 12 Hz with my playback preferences.  OTOH, I expect the quad HST-18s to get me flat to almost 10 Hz.  From there, I guess we'll see what my room does.  My room is not small at all.  It is a living room that's wide open to the rest of the 9000 cuft house.  Ultimately, I may need to go to 8 HST-18s to get solid performance into the single digits, but that remains to be seen.

 

I'm thinking of doing something similar to Nick's build but scaled up to 18s.  I have enough room for a box with two side-firing 18s that's about the same height and depth as a 15H but is about 50% wider.

[SME]

Trying to find some land in the area and build custom that way it'll be exactly what we want. Yesterday, just for shits and giggles, I looked at homes up to $500k and even then there wasn't one house I'd buy that we wouldn't change something in. We love modern homes and that's just not done in our area. If we do find some land I'll have the proper home for the Raptors and a dream house for Jazzy and I. If not we'll just stay where we're at and still be content.

 

I know the A14K can do 2ohms. I'd imagine one driver at .7 shouldn't be a problem for that amp especially in a horn.

I wish you the best of luck in your search.

 

For me, being located in a convenient part of the city was a high priority in choosing my home.  When we bought this house, I anticipated finishing the basement with proper sound isolation and the works.  I was so happy to find a basement with 14 feet contiguous width in this classic 50s ranch, but it turns out the duct work that hangs below 7 feet there and cannot be successfully re-routed.  The other part of the basement is only 10 feet wide, unfinished.  Ugh.  I never planned to try to turn the awkward 19x11 foot living room into a hifi music and movie listening room.  Only one orientation really worked for the front stage that let me install surround speakers, which puts my front stage on the long wall.  All the same, I've managed to get amazing results in this space already.

 

My long term plan is to build an addition to the house.  It's gonna be expensive, but ideally I can dig the basement deeper and finish a dedicated space with as much isolation as possible and lots of headroom (you know, to put stuff on the ceiling).  I originally thought I'd make it a dedicated home theater, but now I'm thinking it should be a multi-purpose room with space for all night electronic music parties as well as movie presentations and possibly content production.  In many ways, I see my current living room effort as a training ground for that project.  To the extent I can master acoustics in this space, hopefully I'll at least have some clue how to best design the dedicated space.

[Bossobass Dave]

Interesting.  Is the thump problem experienced universally?  Or does it only occur with certain pre-amps/processors/AVRs?  I leave my current subs on all the time and never have thumps when I turn my AVR on and off.  OTOH, my MiniDSP 2x4 let's out a nasty DC thump on power off, but it stays plugged in all the time.

 

I have no way to know how universal the problem may or may not be. That's the problem.

 

The Raptors would work better if I installed 15H MK2s where my current subs are and put the Raptors closer to the corner to handle the low-end of a tri-amped bass system.  Nowhere else in the room is suitable for both aesthetic and performance reasons.  I can think of a lot of reasons for doing this kind of setup, but it involves a lot more cost and equipment than is probably necessary.  Also, I understand that the Raptors are packaged with the SEQSS, which is mandated for their use to comply with warranty terms.  Do those warranty terms prohibit use of external EQ devices?  As you know I am fond of EQ, and I can totally understand you not wanting to provide warranty for the hardware under such circumstances.  (Then again, I might be perfectly happy with what the SEQSS provides if it's only handling bass < 20 Hz anyway.)

 

I have always made the distinction between signal shaping and post smoothing EQs. The signal shaping curves of the SEQSS are designed to alter the native overall sealed box frequency magnitude response, F6 bandwidth and F3 resulting in greater response flatness from cross to knee, deeper extension and low system Q. The 9 curves are meant to best couple the subwoofer system with the room to satisfy  end user preferences for in-room response extension and playback levels. This is as opposed to much more radical notch-type listening position FR smoothing EQ.

 

The signal chain is left to the owner of the Raptor hardware. Warranty only enters in where the question becomes one to determine if a hardware failure is a manufacturing defect or abuse/operator error. Random radical additional boost and a mismanaged signal chain gain structure are the primary problems, but that's typically the case with any subwoofer where a PEQ is inserted into the chain.

[Bossobass Dave]

Is the A14k stable below 2ohms?

 

I only ask because I was wanting to buy a A14K down the road for my D.O. 15's but am also building some horns for outdoors that will eventually have a single BC 21IPAL. That driver has a Re of .7ohms. I know the Sp12K can do the load but I will own a Bosso amp anyways so I was curious.

 

 

We've pounded an A-14K into a nominal 1.7 ohms for a year with full bandwidth content.

 

That testing does not answer whether or not it will remain stable in a nominal 0.7 ohms, if that will actually be the case in it's actual use with a horn subwoofer. The end user is unpredictable and so the question remains unanswered.

[SME]

BTW, for a worst case track, I think this will do:  http://www.digido.com/images/Shuttle_FFT_spectra.jpg

 

With the 4-18s, I think I've got a fighting chance of playing that flat to 10 Hz.  Maybe.

[chrapladm]

We've pounded an A-14K into a nominal 1.7 ohms for a year with full bandwidth content.

 

That testing does not answer whether or not it will remain stable in a nominal 0.7 ohms, if that will actually be the case in it's actual use with a horn subwoofer. The end user is unpredictable and so the question remains unanswered.

Thanks Bosso,

 

I figured I would try and see how it goes with the IPAL. I will be buying your amp first so that would be awesome if it can do the IPAL. That would mean less money to spend on another sub amp. Then I can then just put my money into the QSC four channels that are next on the list.

[Bossobass Dave]

I wish you the best of luck in your search.

 

For me, being located in a convenient part of the city was a high priority in choosing my home.  When we bought this house, I anticipated finishing the basement with proper sound isolation and the works.  I was so happy to find a basement with 14 feet contiguous width in this classic 50s ranch, but it turns out the duct work that hangs below 7 feet there and cannot be successfully re-routed.  The other part of the basement is only 10 feet wide, unfinished.  Ugh.  I never planned to try to turn the awkward 19x11 foot living room into a hifi music and movie listening room.  Only one orientation really worked for the front stage that let me install surround speakers, which puts my front stage on the long wall.  All the same, I've managed to get amazing results in this space already.

 

FWIW, and this goes for Adam as well:

 

It may sound radical, but I've done far more radical things to a home over a 40 year career as a design/build contractor. It's actually quite simple and I've done it many times over the years. There is only 4" of nominally thick concrete on the dirt floor in a typical American basement. A concrete saw, an electric hammer or heavy sledge and you can cut out the seating area and bust and remove the concrete. Dig the desired depth into the dirt, install the necessary number of footing piers and frame your seating area flush with the rest of the existing concrete floor, or deeper to create more overhead room.

 

In your listening space with the front stage along the long wall (always preferred if you have the width, IMO), are you forced to sit against the rear wall?

[SME]

FWIW, and this goes for Adam as well:

 

It may sound radical, but I've done far more radical things to a home over a 40 year career as a design/build contractor. It's actually quite simple and I've done it many times over the years. There is only 4" of nominally thick concrete on the dirt floor in a typical American basement. A concrete saw, an electric hammer or heavy sledge and you can cut out the seating area and bust and remove the concrete. Dig the desired depth into the dirt, install the necessary number of footing piers and frame your seating area flush with the rest of the existing concrete floor, or deeper to create more overhead room.

 

In your listening space with the front stage along the long wall (always preferred if you have the width, IMO), are you forced to sit against the rear wall?

A dig out just for the seating area is an interesting idea to keep in mind, but at this point we're thinking of turning much of the current basement space into a workshop instead.

 

Yes.  There is a rear wall to contend with.  That basically rules out 7.1 rears right away.  It also forces the surrounds to be installed at the sides instead of 120 degrees.  My  new sofa has sides that curve forward giving viewers a relatively centered view to the TV, so MLP is closest to the rear wall.  The sofa is set about 8 inches away the wall and there is 6" thick 1.5 lb/cuft Ecose board set 2" off the wall behind.  The absorption knocks out almost all of the reflection out, but it also prevents any sound from arriving at the ears from behind.

 

Above the rear wall absorbers, I have diffusers installed to make the best use of much of the remaining upper-mid and high frequency energy that enters the room.  That sound travels above the listeners' heads and reflects again off the bear wall and diffusers up front.  That sound arrives at the listeners late enough to avoid harm to imaging.  Instead, it provides a magnificent sense of envelopment.  The brain perceives the diffuse sound as coming from all directions simultaneously, including behind!  The side surrounds image well enough for phantom images to appear all along the rear 180 degrees.  As long as the listener keeps his/her heard forward, the wall and absorber practically disappear.  When turning the head, one can hear a "hole" develop to the rear and to the same side that the head is turned to.  In practice, this isn't all that bothersome.  In all I have 44 sqft of diffusion placed around the room and may opt to add more some day.  The improvement in sound quality is marked, not just in the MLP but in the off seats, and even in the entire rest of the house.

[MKtheater]

That was the first thing I thought of when I saw my basement.  It has 7 foot ceilings unfinished and wanted to dig into the concrete but everyone was talking about running into water problems or what not.  The whole basement has a sump pump so I did not take a chance and dig into water or something.  The best part of a low ceiling(probably the only good thing) is that it acts as another boundary for loading the sub. 

 

BTW, I am testing a couple monster cable AVS 2000's that were given to me to try out.  They basically are voltage stabilizers with triggered outlets.  The digital meters are cool and tells you what current you are using.  I was watching the meters and I really don't need stabilization as it never reached over or under 1 volt of correction during EoT.  I wanted to see what amps I use on that opening sequence and it showed 11.8 amps with 120 volts.  That was running the scene hot too!  The LED's on the sanway barely flickered on the -10 area.  I have so much amp headroom with this massive enclosures(IB style).  The room was shaking violently and my gear looked like it was doing nothing. I never watched the gear during a loud 10hz scene before.  I want to run Lone survivor as that seems to suck the most power if running hot. 

 

Adam,

Have you tried the Lone Survivor scene yet? I know you like to run hot like me. 

[maxmercy]

MK,

 

You have a proper system.  Lots of headroom.

 

JSS

[Madaeel]

I'm not sure what constitutes a "decent" cabinet for controlling noise.  Mine is open on the front and back for ventilation.  I also have a PS3, and both my wife and I both find the PS3 to be distracting when it reads discs.

 

What I have now is bliss from 20 Hz on up, but it merely teases me from 12-20 Hz.    Because the VTF3-MK4 appears to be more aggressively tuned and has a steeper roll-off, I expect a pair of VTF-15H MK2s could get me -3 dB at 12 Hz with my playback preferences.  OTOH, I expect the quad HST-18s to get me flat to almost 10 Hz.  From there, I guess we'll see what my room does.  My room is not small at all.  It is a living room that's wide open to the rest of the 9000 cuft house.  Ultimately, I may need to go to 8 HST-18s to get solid performance into the single digits, but that remains to be seen.

 

I'm thinking of doing something similar to Nick's build but scaled up to 18s.  I have enough room for a box with two side-firing 18s that's about the same height and depth as a 15H but is about 50% wider.

By decent I just meant one with doors with a little heft to them. Being open on both sides and the fact that you can hear the PS3 I don't think you'd want the amp in the room. You would definitely hear it when you lower the MV.

 

If you think the MK2's could get you to 12hz at the levels you listen to then I'd imagine four HST would easily get you to 10hz. If you can go the DIY route you'd definitely get more for your $$.

 

I wish you the best of luck in your search.

 

For me, being located in a convenient part of the city was a high priority in choosing my home.  When we bought this house, I anticipated finishing the basement with proper sound isolation and the works.  I was so happy to find a basement with 14 feet contiguous width in this classic 50s ranch, but it turns out the duct work that hangs below 7 feet there and cannot be successfully re-routed.  The other part of the basement is only 10 feet wide, unfinished.  Ugh.  I never planned to try to turn the awkward 19x11 foot living room into a hifi music and movie listening room.  Only one orientation really worked for the front stage that let me install surround speakers, which puts my front stage on the long wall.  All the same, I've managed to get amazing results in this space already.

 

My long term plan is to build an addition to the house.  It's gonna be expensive, but ideally I can dig the basement deeper and finish a dedicated space with as much isolation as possible and lots of headroom (you know, to put stuff on the ceiling).  I originally thought I'd make it a dedicated home theater, but now I'm thinking it should be a multi-purpose room with space for all night electronic music parties as well as movie presentations and possibly content production.  In many ways, I see my current living room effort as a training ground for that project.  To the extent I can master acoustics in this space, hopefully I'll at least have some clue how to best design the dedicated space.

Thanks SME. As much as we wanna buy some land and build I can't imagine all what's involved in that process. Though it would be worth it to have exactly what we want. Jazzy has a green thumb and would be outside as much as possible. It'd be nice to have an outdoor living area and a theater with a nice ceiling height to do a proper Atmos or DTS:X setup.

 

Wow. Ten ft wide isn't enough for a theater room. My duct work is messing me up too. I could easily do a riser in my room but the damn bulkhead is right above the seating so no go.

 

Building onto your house sounds like a good idea. I'd rather do that if I could then dig the basement out. Just moving my lally columns wasn't exactly easy. Actually even if we build a home I'll still have the theater on the other side of the garage to keep the sound isolated as much as possible.

FWIW, and this goes for Adam as well:

 

A concrete saw, an electric hammer or heavy sledge and you can cut out the seating area and bust and remove the concrete. Dig the desired depth into the dirt, install the necessary number of footing piers and frame your seating area flush with the rest of the existing concrete floor, or deeper to create more overhead room.

That's a pretty good idea Dave. Wish I had thought of that before I finished the room. If for any reason we can't find land or decide not to move I'll see how much that would cost me. Thanks man.

 

Adam,

Have you tried the Lone Survivor scene yet? I know you like to run hot like me. 

Funny you ask because I bought that this week along with some other heavy hitters. I'll let you know how it goes.

[MKtheater]

Cool! That scene is awesome and to me is the best helicopter experience on film. Realistic!

[Bossobass Dave]

Just messing with some tweaks and started by playing the liftoff scene from Interstellar:

 

 

126dB corrected. James, you should use that scene or the scene where he goes into the black hole and LMK what your volts/amps read.

 

Man, it should be against the law to have this much fun.

[MKtheater]

I have not reached that scene yet. I played the initial crash in the beginning and it hit 11.1 amps. That looks like it may tax the AVS 2000. If I can play all these scenes hot then I will keep it but if it shuts down no dice. I just think it is cool for something to actually show the output but for retail not worth it. It says 120 volts and 15 amps continuous, I will put that to the test. Is that 126 dB's from running hot or the way it is recorded? I have my subs 10 dB's hot and I would for sure shut it down trying to reach 136 dB's. I have a DIY 20 amp triggered outlet I usually use.