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Found 3 results

  1. Hey Instead of constantly derailing my own subwoofer rising project, I though it better to start a seperate topic to compare to very good drivers with each other. As far as I can see the B2 Audio brand is very reputably, but not so known. They are also European based ("Sweet Like Danish") which is why I doubt any of you know of them. Goal is for a sealed (or ported if it all possible) enclosure (max 290L / 10cuft internal withouth bracing and driver) to cross the sub 30hz region flat and as low as possible. Hopefully down to 10-15hz. I will probably end up building 2 so you can take that into consideration. My room is about 100 cubic meter / 3600cuft. Listening volumes are low (I only listen at 85-90dbs generally, but the bass can be higher ofcourse), but I do want some headroom (and option to use them at reference level if at all possible). B2 Audio driver: Dayton Audio UM1822
  2. I'm upgrading my 5.1 system and will be adding either one or two subs. I've narrowed it down to either the new SVS SB16 for 2K, or 2x HSU-15 Mk2's for $1.8K. Edited thanks to "'shadyJ" Thought?
  3. Folks, Some of you may have already responded to my other thread...and Thanks to all your advice I've now decided to embark on a (very ambitous for newbie) DIY subwoofer project. This new thread is just to seek a wider audience for guidance... The goal being to build the cleanest, high-fidelity sub possible in DIY... as the sub will be used mainly for music and should unobtrusively extend the range of the mains I plan to get (Genelec G Four / 8040). Following are the key requirements: 1. Building a High-fidelity, clean, distortion, rattle free and musical sub is the most important goal - not earth shattering bass, loudness or SPL. 2. Performance: looking to get equal or better fidelity and performance comparable to the Genelec subs 7060 (19Hz, 10" driver with 120Wamp) and 7070 (19Hz, 12" with 250W amp). The mains have a 6.5" (90W) woofer and the sub need only be big/powerful enough to complement it - therefore I'm thinking no more than 10"(400W) or 12" (800W). 3. Max. Cabinet dimensions: 18" x 18" x 24" 4. 10" or 12" - dual opposed drives - for vibration/rattle free bass. 5. Inputs: 1 x XLR, RCA for LFE (with low-pass set at 120Hz), 1 x XLR, RCA for Left/Right input (with low-pass set at 85Hz) 6. Outputs: 1 x XLR, RCA (for LFE loop out), 1 x XLR, RCA with high-pass to connect the Left/Right mains 7. Level control & Clipping protection 8. Detachable power cord with 220V/50Hz input and Power surge protection 9. Auto-power on signal 10. Features: Comparable to the ADAM Sub-10 11. Remote control? Need recommendations/guidance on the following: 1. Cabinet Type Considering Sealed dual push-pull cabinet due to ease of design and build. 2. Driver/Amplifier/Kit Which driver or kit should I get? I'm thinking restricting myself to Aluminum cones - any advice? Can you guys suggest if I should go with 12” or 10”? Focus again is fidelity and not loudness. can you folks recommend the best brands and makes with very long excursion 10" or 12" drives One recommendation I have received so far (Thanks Maxmercy) "DIYSoundGroup. No need for expensive tools, just glue, clamps, a drill, some paint. Dual Opposed 10" cabinet would be good for your needs, and fit the WAF. Build two. Use the Dayton reference drivers." What about Scanspeak, Seas and Peerless and any others? 3. Amplifier: Which amp type is better Class A/B or Class D? Which brand? suitable for the recommended driver and cabinet type. Are the features for high-pass/low-pass Filters and inputs and driver overload protection and power-on mute circuitry built into the Amp? What is the minimum power I will need for a 10" or 12" sealed dual based on amp type and driver size? 4. Cabinet Material: Would Hard-wood cabinet (instead of MDF) offer any advantages over MDF? I also have the option of GRP (figerglass) or aluminum for cabinet - would this be worth exploring and offer any performance or fidelity advantages? If its Alumin or GRP, I'm considering a cylindrical shape with the top and bottom rounded out (much like a medicine capsule)... any advice on this? 5. Power source and what are all the other components I will need to accomplish the above? 6. Budget: What should the budget be to achieve the above goals. Although this is the least of the concerns - if possible I'd like to keep it around $2200 for the pair (based on US prices of components, before shipping, taxes and customs). 7. Location: I'm based in Bangalore, India and have access to a carpenter, metal worker, electronics assistant and may also able to get the speakers tested or measured at a lab in a research institute near-by. I can consider Peerless drivers (made in India - but its not easy to get them locally) - but not sure how low they extend - any other brands I'd have to keep in mind any components imported from outside India will incur an additional 70% in shipping duty and taxes. I'm also posting the same on AVS and HTS - any other forums for good DIY help? Thank you all in advance for any and all responses.
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