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Found 5 results

  1. Hello from The Harbottle Audio Co. We would like to take a minute to tell all of you good people that we are an authorized dealer for Funk Audio components and Focusworks Audio drivers. These drivers and amps that are gaining rapid awareness are now available to the public. Keep in touch for special offers and promotions. You can find us at www.harbottleaudio.com
  2. Last year, I sold my twin Danley DTS-10 subs, which in my room at the time, went down to 8 hz. they also vibrated stuff 3 rooms down the hall, which was stupid. I now have 3 Danley TH-50's which have a cutoff 10 Hz. higher at 18 Hz. in my new room. They seem to work better for 2.1 music and still have great impact for Blue Rays in 6.1. I have a new tapped horn design that should get me back down to single digits and an extra Crown K2 (I hate fans). Based on measurements and the STAR ratings here, am I missing too much????? Thoughts from other bassheads please!
  3. Hi all. Searched through the forums and to my surprise, no discussion thread on these popular (and IMO great!) HT subs. Massive cabinets and massive low-end output, most powerful commercial sub I've listened to. Velodyne DDs and JL F113s are great too, and possibly more refined, but in terms of sub-bass impact and weight, this one I like the most.
  4. Dear Folks, I've searched the forum for sub-recommendations and am now suffering from information overload and can't seem to make a list to even narrow down my choices and now I need your help to finalize a sub-woofer for a 5.1ch Home-theater with Active speakers. Center & Surrounds: Genelec G Three (consumer grade version of 8030) Left & Right: Genelec G Four (consumer grade version of 8040) The advantage with this setup is the G 4 paired with a good sub gets me a very good 2.1ch setup for music that performs at the G4 level and for movies the G 4 can easily match the level of the G 3 in the center/surrounds and I will essentially get a 5.1ch setup for movies that performs at the G 3 level. My requirement is a sub that integrates well with the above setup. The sub has perform better than the Genelec 7060 (at the $2100 price range) and at least as good as the Genelec 7050 ($1100 price range). In short - my question is as follows: Is the Genelec 7060 the best sub in the world (for fidelity and low distortion) at its $2100 price point? The main performance criteria being very low distortion, high fidelity/accuracy/transparency, tight, clean bass. SPL is not the most important factor. The dealer claims that the Genelec 7060 is worth every penny of its $2200 price because of the following: Genelec's proprietary Laminar Spiral Enclosure (LSE) [does anyone know how this makes the sub better than everything else], "0" db baffle resonance, driver giving all the SPL and not the cabinets rattling, construction rock solid and no coloration in the Low Frequency and also power efficient consumes only 120W for an SPL@1m of 108dB and is well integrated with the Genelec speakers. Other details - in case you have time to read further: 1. Budget: $700 to $1500 (base USD prices before taxes, shipping etc).Since I can't buy used, I will also have to add about 70% on top of the base price for duty, shipping ,VAT etc to arrive at my final cost. 2. Size requirements/limits: I think an 8" or 10" sub should be sufficient - should have freq response down to 21 or 22 hz. with the best fidelity/accuracy/transparency, tight clean distortion free bass is my most important criterion - not loudness/SPL. 3. Room dimensions: Living/Dining hall: 25' x 18' open to a Foyer: 9' x 12' with Ceiling height 10'. Flooring is polished marble, walls are brick with cement plaster. (Refer: ) 4. Primary uses: Usage will be about 70% movies - 30% music. All videos (avi, mp4, mpg, mkv, divx etc) and music (mp3) files are on hard-disk and will be played via VLC player from a home-theater PC, all the speakers will be directly connected to the 5.1ch sound card on the PC using XLR (any body know if a sound card has XLR out available?) or through RCA-XLR conversion jack or plain RCA jack. 5. Listening habits: I do not plan on playing it with blow me off my seats loudness (except may be when the wife is away) but just a set that is accurate/ transparent, without rattling and unwanted vibrations etc. I'm not looking for earth shattering bass - just accurate, clean distortion free bass - that is as good as or better than Genelec 7060. 6. Appearance requirements: It has to be sufficiently compact and good looking to complement the Genelecs G 4/ G 3 but needn't be super-compact or sleek - so as to compromise price or performance...It needs to be made in Europe or North America 7. Location and Time-frame: I'm an American expat based in Bangalore, India and that means fewer options to consider and there is no "used" market to speak of and imported things in general cost nearly double here compared to the base US prices. Can't really buy internet direct either - but I do want the best (most accurate, transparent) sub out there in my price range... therefore I may be willing to wait and buy the right thing by whatever means I can. 8. DIY is not an option for this setup. I may do it as a second or complementary sub - if needed - but the criteria will remain the same - tight bass, low distortion, no rattling, power efficient etc comparable to Genelec... I don't think I can achieve that in a million years... 9. WAF: "Any darned thing which is...Not too big, Not too loud. Not too ugly." 10. I'm looking to find the "Best" sub there is not just "very good or excellent" in the $700 - $2000 price bracket. I assume there are very few choices (in my budget)... that are equal or better performance/accuracy than the Genelec 7060 in the above categories: tight bass, low distortion, low waste due to heat or noise, accuracy/transparency,etc...(loudness and bomb like air/earth moving ability is not a criterion for me) - the brand has to have the same studio cred and audiophile/pro/musician cred and halo effect as the Genelecs and look tastefully (no flashy/glossy stuff) done too... would the Genelec 7060 still be the sub to get at that price point? Thanks in advance for all responses...
  5. Folks, Some of you may have already responded to my other thread...and Thanks to all your advice I've now decided to embark on a (very ambitous for newbie) DIY subwoofer project. This new thread is just to seek a wider audience for guidance... The goal being to build the cleanest, high-fidelity sub possible in DIY... as the sub will be used mainly for music and should unobtrusively extend the range of the mains I plan to get (Genelec G Four / 8040). Following are the key requirements: 1. Building a High-fidelity, clean, distortion, rattle free and musical sub is the most important goal - not earth shattering bass, loudness or SPL. 2. Performance: looking to get equal or better fidelity and performance comparable to the Genelec subs 7060 (19Hz, 10" driver with 120Wamp) and 7070 (19Hz, 12" with 250W amp). The mains have a 6.5" (90W) woofer and the sub need only be big/powerful enough to complement it - therefore I'm thinking no more than 10"(400W) or 12" (800W). 3. Max. Cabinet dimensions: 18" x 18" x 24" 4. 10" or 12" - dual opposed drives - for vibration/rattle free bass. 5. Inputs: 1 x XLR, RCA for LFE (with low-pass set at 120Hz), 1 x XLR, RCA for Left/Right input (with low-pass set at 85Hz) 6. Outputs: 1 x XLR, RCA (for LFE loop out), 1 x XLR, RCA with high-pass to connect the Left/Right mains 7. Level control & Clipping protection 8. Detachable power cord with 220V/50Hz input and Power surge protection 9. Auto-power on signal 10. Features: Comparable to the ADAM Sub-10 11. Remote control? Need recommendations/guidance on the following: 1. Cabinet Type Considering Sealed dual push-pull cabinet due to ease of design and build. 2. Driver/Amplifier/Kit Which driver or kit should I get? I'm thinking restricting myself to Aluminum cones - any advice? Can you guys suggest if I should go with 12” or 10”? Focus again is fidelity and not loudness. can you folks recommend the best brands and makes with very long excursion 10" or 12" drives One recommendation I have received so far (Thanks Maxmercy) "DIYSoundGroup. No need for expensive tools, just glue, clamps, a drill, some paint. Dual Opposed 10" cabinet would be good for your needs, and fit the WAF. Build two. Use the Dayton reference drivers." What about Scanspeak, Seas and Peerless and any others? 3. Amplifier: Which amp type is better Class A/B or Class D? Which brand? suitable for the recommended driver and cabinet type. Are the features for high-pass/low-pass Filters and inputs and driver overload protection and power-on mute circuitry built into the Amp? What is the minimum power I will need for a 10" or 12" sealed dual based on amp type and driver size? 4. Cabinet Material: Would Hard-wood cabinet (instead of MDF) offer any advantages over MDF? I also have the option of GRP (figerglass) or aluminum for cabinet - would this be worth exploring and offer any performance or fidelity advantages? If its Alumin or GRP, I'm considering a cylindrical shape with the top and bottom rounded out (much like a medicine capsule)... any advice on this? 5. Power source and what are all the other components I will need to accomplish the above? 6. Budget: What should the budget be to achieve the above goals. Although this is the least of the concerns - if possible I'd like to keep it around $2200 for the pair (based on US prices of components, before shipping, taxes and customs). 7. Location: I'm based in Bangalore, India and have access to a carpenter, metal worker, electronics assistant and may also able to get the speakers tested or measured at a lab in a research institute near-by. I can consider Peerless drivers (made in India - but its not easy to get them locally) - but not sure how low they extend - any other brands I'd have to keep in mind any components imported from outside India will incur an additional 70% in shipping duty and taxes. I'm also posting the same on AVS and HTS - any other forums for good DIY help? Thank you all in advance for any and all responses.
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