Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by xtrmaniac

  1. Based on your suggestions I made the room treatment by adding 6 acoustic panels - 2 behind the mains, 2 on the back of the sofa and 2 on the ceiling. The improvement is huge, it's infinite better than before. I intend to use and buy corner traps later on due to the aesthetic look, hopefully before connecting the subs however for 100$ each this will wait for a while. I have attached how the drivers model in this size enclosure. The simulation was done with 2 drivers adjusting the enclosure size and had the parameters taken from TC sounds website were their specifications were made for dual voice-coil wired in parallel. Because the specifications are only for voice-coil wired in parallel I should consider to have them connected like this and both drivers from each cabinet should be connected in series? Thank you for your advise, I will connect them separately into the amp. Daniel
  2. Good morning Gentlemen, It's been a busy year and it's been a while since I updated this topic. First of all I will like to Thank you JSS and nube that they gave me so very generously of their time, knowledge, and patience to understand what I need to build a new pair of subwoofers and to enclose them in a room which was treated. Even if the thread began with a statement, I discovered that there are only a handful of drivers that could comply with a 3 cubic feet enclosure and to be on a budget. This year Christmas came a little earlier than anticipated and now I am the happy buyer of 4 x TC Sounds Epic 12" drivers. I have some details about what I have in mind for building the subs and everybody's feedback is welcomed. - 4 x TC sounds Epic 12" drivers in dual opposed cabinets design with inside measurements of 23 x 16 x 16 ~ 3.41 cubic feet from MDF, - 1 x Behringer EP4000 amplifier which I intend to connect the subs in bridge mode - 1 x miniDSP 2x4 + plugin + UMIK-1 mic setup with REW software and Linkwitz Transform for fine tuning - The drivers will have 2 + 2 ohms dual voice-coil in series connected, then the drivers will be connected in parallel in the same cabinet and the last thing the subs will be connected in series to the amplifier to have 4 ohms at the bridge mode - correct me if I'm wrong - 1 lb acoustic poly fill in each cabinet - 2" standoff from the floor and a 1/2" beveled glass top plate installed at 2" above the driver - This is my conclusion, please let me know if I should review the measurements - Looking as black mirror finish furniture It seems that this is becoming more like a habit to build speakers during winter however I'm very excited to start and hopefully I will finish them in a timely manner. I will update as soon as I will have new details. All the best, Daniel
  3. Thanks a lot nube for Megamind and Kung Fu Panda. Both of them are terrific animation movies. These 2 are on my favorite list where I can actually hear the surround system.
  4. Good morning, This is the mic used by Anthem. The storage that I have for this thread is drastically reduced and I cannot attached more files but the link below should tell more about the mic used. www.anthemav.com/downloads/ARC-1_PDS.pdf
  5. Thank you for the answers in the thread. They helped me a lot and I really appreciate your feedback. I will keep the thread updated when I will start building the subwoofers and with the new results but for now I will go off-topic just for the following problem. In the meantime the high frequency on Surrounds was improved. I adjusted the crossover from the AVR (at 100Hz), distance position, I used a decibel meter and some other details and now is playing very smoothly, the sound travel clear and clean. Ratatouille, Oblivion and Act of Valor can tell a story now After taking the latest distance measurements, the center is situated at 8ft from the center listening position. The Towers are at 9ft and the right surround at 11ft and the left one is at 10ft. The distance between the wall and the speaker is around 1ft or less. The room treatment is not yet finished. I plan to add acoustic panels behind each Tower and 2 acoustic panels behind the sofa, however after seeing the latest graphs which are attached, perhaps I should reconsider the number of acoustic panels. In the file attached, on the first pages the measurements are from Anthem software (red - measured / black - target / blue - calculated) after all the details were worked out and the rest of the measurements are done by REW. I've used the mic from the Anthem (ARC-1 Anthem) which I used it in REW as it is, without calibration. The .cal file present in the AVR software didn't work and I don't have the specifications of the mic for now. The connections were made using the USB port for the mic and the laptop HDMI output connecting the AVR. The tutorial suggested that I should use a -12dB level on the signal generator but it was too loud and it was reaching the sound distortion. Then I change it to -16dB. Instead of 75dB on SPL meter I was using 72dB with -20dBRef. This gave me something between 2-4dB HeadRoom. All the graphs were taken only on the listening position mentioned above with the mic in omni position. My curiosity paid off since the high freq were quite good compared with Anthem graphs, at least on the surrounds but I saw 2 cancellations at 4kHz and 12kHz. The left Tower is shifted with 1kHz to the right. I played some focal wave sounds at 3k, 4k, 5k, 10k, 12.5k, 16k and I didn't hear if there were something wrong there. The voice frequency sounds great when I'm watching movies or listening to music. That makes me think the mic has a problem but used in the Anthem software which have a calibration file, the mic seemed to be fine, or there is something wrong with the room and I need to hurry with the room acoustic treatment or I missed something when I was setting up the REW or is just a glitch. I repeated 2 times the measurements with the same result. What is your opinion about this? Definitely I need to have accurate graphs using a calibrated mic as UMIK-1 and to change the mic positions for more details, but it raised some questions and I don't know if I should be worried or not. Compared with the results from the ARC Anthem I shouldn't. Also, based on the impulse graph, could you please tell me if I should add acoustic panels behind the surround speakers? These are the settings used for REW. Please let me know if I should change them. 2 Sweeps -16dB FS level (should I change the value?) -20dBRef - I have got around 72dB on SPL meter 2-4dB Headroom - should I use more headroom? All the best, PS: I have read about the xls sheet in the Low Content Thread. I still need to compare the new values from the forum with the old ones from the excel file in order to adjust it. I should share it as it is or I should wait? I incline to wait until everything is settled. Please let me know your feedback. Frequency Response_resize.pdf
  6. Thank you JSS! These examples will bringing me closer to decide what I should build. Definitely going with Infinity drivers in 2 folded horns will be the most economical choice, however I was looking also into the TC Sounds Epic, Dayton Reference HF, Dayton Ultimax and FI SSD 12" and I simulated them in the WinISD. Please find enclosed the screenshot taken from the project where I uploaded 6 different 12" drivers. 2 Ultimax drivers it will give me around 6 cubic feet in a sealed enclosure and for my requirements it will not work. Great driver though. Also Dayton Reference HO seems to have good values in WinISD. The only problem is that it's hard to decide which driver I should choose based on values, volume and reviews and a good advice will be most welcomed regarding this. You are right about popalock's videos show. I didn't intend to have them in the same category, I was just amazed about that and I know that I could even get closer to something similar. I've read that actually there 16 of SI 18" which is a lot of displacement. Thanks a lot! I will place the corner traps on the front corners. All the best,
  7. Thank you for your reply JSS! I don't recall to have cinema processing setting on Anthem, but I will take another look. The menu settings is pretty straight forward. About checking now the x-overs, that it will be a little bit impossible. I tested them before installing them in the enclosures several times. Even when they were installed in the cabinet without gluing the last piece of the enclosure, they sounded ok as I could hear that x-over is working and they are wired correctly. This is my first diy sound system and I didn't want any surprises. I did though boosted the surround with +3dB in the AVR and watching HTTYD, Kung Fu Panda, I was somehow surprised about the sound effects in the surround speakers at -20dBRef, but I still have a feeling that something is missing. Definitely, if there is a problem there I would like to check it out but now I'm a little bit confused. Thank you for guiding me in choosing a design for the subwoofers. The 4x12" drivers will be my best option in the room and I will go with dual opposed design which will give me the best solution: space, going below 15Hz and used them as furniture as you said before. But having multiple sealed drivers in the nearfield firing into the seat-backs is not bad at all. It's just bringing me a good feeling and a smile when I'm watching something like this: I assume that a 12" driver has around 1 cubic feet volume in a sealed box that means the enclosure should have around 2-2.5 cubic feet volume with the driver displacement and bracing. In this case could you please tell me if there is a good 12" driver which could meet my requirements without breaking the bank? About acoustic treatment, I'm already working at this. Hopefully, soon I will finish this and do another calibration of the sound in the room.
  8. Good morning, I really appreciate the content of this topic. I want to take this opportunity to thanks everybody for everything that I found on this thread. The information and the details here are very useful. It's giving me another perspective to look through the movies and I don't look into other bass threads anymore. After finishing the Cinema Room and the sound system I was watching some movies and I found the sound mix interesting. I don't know if the following movies were ever discussed in the thread but perhaps could be added in the queue. Gangster Squad Knight and Day Losers The A-team Megamind All the best,
  9. Hello, I lost the track of time with the sound system project this winter. However in the meantime I had the chance to finish reading what JSS have share it and I can say that I'm little bit more educated. Definitely I would like to buy the book from Floyd E. Toole, because I'm sure that I will find more interesting details there. To sum up, I just finished the 5.0 sound system and I took a day off just to hear the music, listen a SACD, watch a movie or two...actually I will watch at least half of the BDs that I have just to review the movie experience and I need to say that is unbelievable. The dialogue in the Inglorious Basterds movie is awesome, clean and clear, same as goes with the effects from Gangster Squad, How to train your dragon, The A-team, Losers, Knight and day, etc. It's more than clean and clear sound, it's a whole new experience of everything. As advertised the high frequencies are crystal clear, open and warm middle ranges and accurate bass. This system will be doing great as it is for movies that are filtered at 30Hz. And btw JSS, I never doubt it and you were right about "How low do you want to replicate? How loud? I think you will be SPL limited by your Mains, Center and Surrounds, and I do not think clean reference level will be possible as they appear to be lower sensitivity speakers. The dual-tweeter center was a curious design choice. With ~87dB sensitivity, and a ~3m listening distance, you are looking at around 95-100dB maximum at the listening positions from them before distortion becomes unbearable. That means you have a -10dB to -5dB system." Now I can answer this question and I can say that it's more than enough. Until it reaches the distortion it can get loud enough for my ears, even pass my expectations. Definitely will be better with subs but for now it will do it. Please find below the link where the pictures are stored. https://picasaweb.google.com/109879731661334647680/074DIYSpeakers1618SonyH50B?authkey=Gv1sRgCOvlibvfrJaPgQE#5981989225038554018 The room is not yet finished. It needs acoustic panels and corner traps. Regarding the corner traps, I would like to know if I should use them between the ceiling and the wall and how should be distributed? I've read a case study from Ryan O. Allen about Acoustical Concepts and he recommended to be used. Based on the room measurements I'm inclined to go only with corner traps at the wall corners and acoustical panels. I would like to receive your feedback about it. In my quest of finding what is the best and appropriate subs for my Cinema Room I found that I'm still not decided which subwoofer will work there. I had a discussion with nube and I was asking him for more details about his design and I would like to thank him for taking his time and patience to share his experience. He also recommended to use TC sound drivers since they use less cubic feet than FI SSD15" to have great performances. The design of 2 dual opposed drivers is great but I'm not very sure if going with that will not be too much. The space available there is not that much as you have seen in the updated layout. Central is at the distance of 10-12 feet and the surround between 15-16 ft from the listening point. And I have between 2.5 and 3 cubic feet to spare between the sofa and the chair to be used as side tables no more higher than 24". And I have only 2 areas to use for that. Also I could compensate at some point with "bass shakers" for the feeling below 15Hz I agree that I need more space to develop a real home cinema, however in this case I need to work with what I have and I will appreciate your advice. Please find attached the frequency response on each speaker after calibrating with ARC from Anthem. I think they are pretty good. The only thing that is concerning me are the surrounds. The volume is almost 0.7 cubic feet in a sealed enclosures. I attached the schematic. As per surround graphs the response is dropping dramatically after 6kHz. Hopefully I didn't mess with anything and that is everything that I could squeeze from them. All the best,
  10. Thank you very much for your answers! I got the power back, after 7 days, so everything that I postponed, I need to do it in the next couple of days. I will have more questions soon but until then, have a great week and Happy New Year!
  11. Thank you for all the details! At some point I would like to resume how to improve the room with corner traps and absorption panels since I'm a little bit confused. I still need to finish reading those 2 web-links sent. Definitely I will ask more questions as I progress with everything, I regret the late answer but I was busy building the speakers and unfortunately our house was in the path of the Ice storm. We have already a power outage which is lasting for almost 2 days. Nothing major happened only couple of tree branches felt on the driveway. Anyway we expect to have the power restored as soon as possible. I have some question off-topic about building the speakers. How do you keep the damping material away from the drivers? I bought something like this: http://www.parts-express.com/acousta-stuf-polyfill-speaker-cabinet-damping-material-5-lb-bag--260-330 The tweeter speakers didn't come with a gasket. I didn't expect that. So I need to go to a store to buy something. Can I replace the rubber gasket with something else? What do you recommend me? There is a space cut under the tweeter for polarity connections. How and with what should I fill that space?
  12. Thank you maxmercy! I'm looking forward to receiving your reply. When you will have a chance, could you recommend me a corner trap model? There are only 2 corners on the left wall, I don't know if I should install something at the bottom of stairs (behind the rear speaker) and on the corner under the stairs where is a closet door. I found nube's thread on AVS forum and I'm really impressed, the enclosure looks very well-constructed. I just have to figure out if there are similar drivers that I could use for my project without affecting their performance, because I didn’t find SSD-15" drivers on parts-express or solen.ca. Reading your last line, I just want to confirm with you if 1xEP4000 should be enough without needing an EQ for near field subwoofers in this setup.
  13. I agree with you about room treatment. However, I am intrigued if sound and safe insulation added in the ceiling and in the wall behind the TV stand plays any role in sound absorption? I thought/hoped the insulation will do the trick. I am wondering if I should install absorption panels on the entire wall or should I focused on a certain areas. Could you please advise what is the best way to determine the panel size in my case? I'm not a subwoofer connoisseur but I think I will go with near field subs. Last time you mentioned that I should have 115-120dB at the seats from subs to match the LCRS. How can I do that? Can you please guide me to some DIY near field subs designs / schematics? I didn't do my homework about this and I would like to study what are the requirements in order to build such subs. My goal would be to go below 15Hz. All the best, xtrmaniac
  14. Thanks for letting me know!
  15. Hello, The updated layout is attached. layout_v2.pdf
  16. Hi maxmercy, Thank you for your answer! I really appreciate it. I regret the late reply but I was busy this weekend finishing all the basement little details before being functional for watching movies. It's useless if I'm building speakers and nowhere to place them. Nevertheless now I should have plenty of time to complete the speakers even on this weather. I will update tomorrow the thread with another cinema room layout based on your specifications. I have room left to the left/right of the sofa and chairs. 1 rear can be placed at the bottom of stairs, the 2nd one can be place on the far left near the closet. That means it will be plenty of space for nearfield subwoofers. About your question how low I intend to replicate, I'm afraid I don't have a straight answer for this. As low as it gets without hurting the wallet. I mean I put a lot of effort building and finishing the cinema room. I would like to think that it can stand having these speakers and subwoofers. I think, in the end, it's not about how loud I want to hear it, because literally the LCR will be right in my face. Not much of a distance for 10ft between sofa and speakers. I'm lucky if I will turn the receiver knob up to 30% for listening music loud. So I will lean towards a sound which will envelop the space between the tv and sofa and people watching a movie. I will lean to an experience felt during the movie, not for loudness. And again I don't want to shake the neighbors houses to the ground, only mine (just kidding) Please let me know how should I go forward with this, or if you need more details. If all the details will be resolved, probably by Christmas I will have a present . Best wishes, xtrmaniac PS: My background is Romanian but I'm established in Canada.
  17. Hi Ricci: 1. I preferred to be reserved on the budget point. I previously mentioned that I'm on the budget but first I would like to know what options I have in the cinema room to know how much can I extend it. I have a feeling that it will not be something very expensive, for example the SVS product mentioned above can be sold at 4-500$. I can start from there to see how much will add up. 2. Not a problem to convince my wife but seeing the cinema room layout, the dimensions and the space left, how big can it get? It's not that I'm underestimating the dimensions of the subwoofer, but it can have a reasonable size. 3. Depends of the size of the subwoofer I can go with 1 or 2 subwoofers if I'm going to split the pre-out cable from the Anthem receiver. 4. I like to listen an open and warm sound and sometimes it could get loud. I'm listening mainly of rock and electronic music. That doesn't mean I don't have CDs with classical music . I started with Logitech Z5500, continued with Axiom sound system, now I want to build them. 5. The room is situated in the basement. 292" x 129" x 81.5". I agree that the room is not big but enough so far. I need to add that in the previous reply I said 2 concrete walls, actually there are 3 concrete walls, the third one is situated on the side of the stairs based on the layout attached (2 concrete walls have 129" and one has 292"). The concrete walls have a wood frame 1 1/2" with no insulation, with vapor barrier and 1/2" regular drywall. The 4th wall, where the floorstanding and central speakers will be, has a wood frame with 2 layers of sound proofing insulation and 1/2" drywall. The ceiling has 1 layer of sound proofing insulation, resilient channel and 1/2" drywall. The floor is concrete, covered with pieces of vinyl and on top of that underlayment and 14mm laminate flooring. 6. Please let me know if you need more details. 7. DIY definitely an option. About wood experience, I've redone the main floor and the basement by myself. I'm not making cabinet doors but I can handle a saw or a router. Regards, xtrmaniac
  18. Thank you for the replies and for the web-links. The information is very comprehensive compared with different bits and pieces gathered from internet and library. I don't know how I missed that but the sound system will be installed in the basement in a 2 storey house. The basement dimensions are: 292" x 129" x 81.5". The rooms is not that big, but enough to make it in a cinema room. Please find enclosed the layout with all the details. Perhaps this is relevant so I will write it anyway. There are 2 concrete walls with 1.5" wood frame and drywall. The wall where the sound system will be installed has a 2 layer of sound proofing insulation. The ceiling has 1 layer of sound proofing insulation, resilient channel and drywall. The speakers are not ready yet. Still building the enclosures and hopefully this weekend, if it will not be any show stoppers, I will complete them. The tricky part will be to apply veneer on MDF. The crossovers are partially done and it's just a matter of time to put all the components together. Below you will find the proven designs that I choose after searching through different sites and combine with what kind of drivers I could buy at this point. Floorstanding speakers http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Hi-Vi-3-Way-Tower/ Central speaker http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/HiVi-Center-Channel/ Rear Speakers http://www.underfloorers.com/speakers/center/ Regards, xtrmaniac layout.pdf
  19. Hello, First of all I'm amazed about what is discussing here, especially on "The Low Frequency Content Thread". That is solid work and thanks everybody for their contribution to this (much appreciate it). It's another perspective to look for movies and listen to them and without your involvement, none of this work could exist. Still reading the "The Low Frequency Content" thread and I'm really impressed. Needless to say that it's inspiring and never found something similar. Thank you again for your commitment! Since I'm reading the thread the only thing that comes to my mind is if I'am choosing the right subwoofer. I want to buy SVS PC-12NSD which based on the reviews it seems to be a good acquisition, however I'm still building the sound system where the floorstanding will have a range between 35-20kHz and I didn't quite decide if the subwoofer will be the right one. The floorstanding and the central speakers are ported, only the rear ones are sealed but with same drivers. I read that some of you are building speakers also. May I know the project name and a weblink if it's possible for more inspiration? What am I expecting from the subwoofer? The same experience that everybody is talking when they have a good subwoofer, however now I'm on a budget and I just want to know if I can meet the financial resources if I will choose to build one or two comparing with the SVS product mentioned above. If it will be better by building it and I’m pretty sure that is the conclusion, if you don't mind, could you please guide me to certain diy subwoofer projects that deserve attention since the internet is full of them and it's very hard to decide. If it matters, at home I have the following configuration: Emotiva XPA-5 Anthem MRX-500 Oppo BDP-103 Have a great day, xtrmaniac
  • Create New...