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Boomer1950

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Boomer1950 last won the day on February 7

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  1. More foam gluing... a view from the top - you can see that I glued layers of foam together to create 3" - 4" thick foam on some walls. All exterior walls have at least 2" of foam. . Except for the wall that the ports will be pointing at.. . The ports fit tightly through the foam "tunnels" - top port path Lower port path The internal speaker wire runs down a foam covered track in the middle of the box. I added a little more foam on the wire path to prevent any rattling of the wire. I also drilled the hole for the SpeakOn panel connector. Next up? I only have 2 pieces of the box left to attach - the top & the outer baffle. The construction of the box is almost complete.
  2. Time for an update...I finally glued the inner baffle to the front of the box. I received all of the parts for the ports. I cut one 12" port section down to 10" for each port - one 10" piece + one 12" piece + 3" flare + 3" flare... Each flare adds 3" to the length of the port, but only 2.5" counts as "port". So, two ports - 28" long - are effectively 27" long ports. I've started the foam installation by gluing 2" foam to the inside of the top - leaving gaps for the internal braces that will be glued to the top. I'm picking my moments to continue gluing foam to the box. My wife really hates to smell it. But, the 3M spray adhesive is excellent. I used 3M's "90" spray adhesive. Spraying the box & spraying the back of the foam with adhesive makes a seriously tight bond. Now, more foam gluing.
  3. Thanks for all the feedback. I'll be lining my box with 2" thick foam. Learned something new yesterday - my ports won't be made from PVC pipe. The flares & connector rings don't fit the standard pipe. I've ordered port sections from Parts Express. I already have the flares for each end. How much space do I need to have between the end of the internal port flare & the back wall?
  4. Thanks to @peniku8 for the suggestions. I'll be heading over to Lowes soon to pick up some MDF screws & a 5' long piece of black 4" PVC pipe.
  5. I've completed the installation & gluing of all of the internal braces - including 6 new braces (2" x 6.5") between the braces running from front to back (& also back to front) as was suggested by @dgage. The goal was to tie the 2 sides together & it appears they've been successful. Question: Should I cover the internal walls with 1" acoustic foam? (like the picture below)
  6. I have questions about some details concerning the construction of the box: When should I install the threaded inserts for the feet for the box? If I want to use T-nuts or Hurricane nuts, how do I tell if they work with 3/4" MDF? Do the Precision ports need threaded inserts to mount them to the outer baffle? Or, do I just use wood screws plus glue to mount them "permanently"? The 4" flares have a 1/2" flange with holes drilled into it for mounting purposes. I bought a SpeakON panel connector (Neutrik NL4MP-UC 40A Speakon Connector 4 Pole Panel Mount Part # 092-067). Do I use wood screws & glue to attach the SpeakOn panel mount or should I use threaded inserts? I'm waiting to receive my SI driver before I can determine the location of the inserts to mount it. But, am I able to buy the inserts & screws now - meaning, is there a standard insert that will work with SI drivers?
  7. I found your website the other day & was impressed with your subs. They look wonderful & I'm sure they sound even better. Very serious subwoofers.
  8. Thanks for the suggestion. Putting a couple of braces across the middle won't be difficult. It's comforting to know someone is looking over my shoulder. It's going to take shape pretty quickly now. After a year & a half of imagining what it will look like, it'll be strange to see the actual box sitting in my house. Initial impression? Pretty damn big. I know people make much larger subwoofers, especially on this forum, but my current 12" ported sub is about a 2.4 cu.ft. box. This one is a 9.25 cu.ft. box. Bigger.
  9. Thanks for the kind words @dgage I hadn't planned to have any pieces between the side braces. Certainly open to suggestion though. I could make pieces 2" wide to run between the sides. How many braces like that would you recommend?
  10. Hole Cutting - Finished. 1st picture is inner baffle. The 2nd pic is both the Inner & Outer baffles. Time to glue all these pieces together...
  11. After I glued all of the braces to the sidewalls I stood them up to create the 25" width of the finished subwoofer. Then I propped up the long braces in approximately the proper location. They run from the front wall to back wall & will be glued to the side braces. Then I propped up the back onto the other pieces just to get a better sense of the size & future fit of these elements. The first picture with back piece in place shows how the side braces on the left & right are not spaced the same distances apart - to break up the symmetry. I cut a couple of 6.25" holes for practice. That's the size of hole needed for the 4" port flares I bought from Parts Express (which they got from Precision Ports). I think I'm ready to start cutting the holes in the front baffles. I'll be cutting the inner baffle first in order to have a little more practice before I cut the outer baffle. But, it's much easier to cut the holes with a Jasper jig than I anticipated. The peg inserted into the 1/8" hole drilled in the center of the circle & then inserted into the jig keeps the router on track really well. Now it's time to cut holes in the actual baffles...
  12. Given my low skill level my decision to cut dadoes in the side walls might seem inadvisable. But after watching a couple of videos, I thought I could do it. The sidewall braces don't run from one wall to the other, so recessing the brace by 3/16" would not cause any problems. I did a couple of practice cuts & discovered that my 3/4" router cut a dado slightly less wide than the 3/4" MDF. I used the advice I found online & placed a strip of blue tape on the guide board & cut again. Still doesn't fit. Another strip of blue tape - another cut - and the MDF fits snuggly. I started gluing the side braces into the dadoes - trying to keep each one square.
  13. Thanks, Ricci. Things seem to be going well. I think your advice to take my time is crucial during a first-time build. But today I remembered what it's like to experience sublime pleasure from a very small event. The evidence of my small accomplishment (that thrilled me no end because I've been so intimidated about cutting the baffles) is below. Even though this was just practice I'm still happy I was able to cut my first hole successfully. I used a Jasper circle jig. I had to drill a new hole in the jig to make it work with my router. Still worked like a charm. Obviously, this is the disk & not the hole, but the hole looks nice, too.
  14. I want to back up for a moment. A lot of the build threads here & on other forums are done by people with woodworking skills or, at the very least, woodworking tools. Other than a handsaw, hammer & a cordless drill I had nothing I needed to make the box - especially skills. I bought a couple of Worx saw horses (that came with a couple of clamps) & a small router to start. I made a work surface for the saw horses out of scrap material from the 3/4" MDF that was cut for me. I went the more complicated way by designing the box myself using subbox.pro primarily. I also learned how to use WinISD (well enough, I hope). But, I had no background in engineering or 3D modeling software. I did have some experience with Photoshop (I now use Pixelmator Pro on my MacBook), so I designed the pieces I needed using it. That explains my rather colorful sketches. I wanted to make sure everyone understood that there was little reason for me to think I could do this. Of course, that discounts all the help you get from this forum which has been invaluable. I know this forum skews towards people with extensive sub building experience. The expertise here is stunning. But (hopefully), I'll show that someone with no experience, no tools, no skills can still build a sub. This entry will look terribly dumb, if I don't finish my sub or if it sounds like a piece of shit. I'm assuming that neither of those things will happen.
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