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jay michael

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Everything posted by jay michael

  1. Thanks Josh, that makes good sense to me. I guess in a way I have already experienced that through my own experiences. For shows which are predominantly techno or psy I'm always adding a bump in the 80-110 or so range, which likely makes the response more similar to the cabinets raw sound. On the other hand for more bass driven stuff I am pulling a bit of that bump out and adding a chunk around 30-60hz. Gotta put some time in with more experimenting then, like you said it would nice to have a range of profiles to use to best suite the program material.
  2. Some thoughts I've been having today about tuning. It's almost pleasant enough up here in Canada to get into the backyard for some more measurements and tuning. I have run my Skrams for a few shows now using a 120hz crossover and I haven't been able to fault it. These shows however have all been indoor so I am looking forward to more outdoor testing to get a better feel for what sounds best. I want to build a hand full of presets using a range of crossover points so I can more easily switch between profiles for better A/B listening and testing. Another thing that is on my mind is what would be the most preferable dsp corrected freq response shape for the Skrams. The raw response out of the box has a gently rising shape to it, but up to this point I have been using some simply parametric eq to make the response basically flat. I've been reading around trying to find info on this to see if there is a preferred shape to the response curve and I haven't found it talked about much. It "seems" that a flat response is most common in the examples I have come across but I have also found some examples where the response is hottest in the low frequencies with it tailing off towards higher frequencies. Here is an example from the 18sound website for one of their DIY cabinet designs for a dual 21" manifold type subs. First picture show the raw response, second picture shows their recommended corrected response. https://imgur.com/gallery/LYq4N8u https://imgur.com/gallery/kReqJkN What would determine a manufacturer, or even a DIY cabinet builder to settle on a final response shape? Is it purely based on what sounds best through lots of experimentation? Or is there something more specific at play. Any thoughts or feedback? What kind of corrected settings are you using for your Skrams? I would also be interested in what everyone is using for a hp on their skrams as well. I've been using a 24db BW at 28hz on mine but for events where its all techno or psy I usually bump it up to 33-35hz as it tends to clean up the sound a bit where those low frequencies are not really needed as much
  3. I've got a pair of Sh-46 for pa work and a pair of Sm60f in my living room, both of which have been used with my Skrams. I love them more and more every time I get to hear them. The Sh-46 can effortlessly get extremely loud yet sound silky smooth at the same time. They are the best sounding pa speaker I have personally heard, and I get that feedback over and over again when I get them out for shows. Besides sounding awesome they also have unreal pattern control which is something I never considered being important until I owned them. Consistent sound quality is a given with synergy horns, especially in indoor venues. You can put the sound where you want it and keep it away from from walls and ceilings with ease. I figure I would need 8 or more skram's to keep up with the pair of 46's. The sm60f's on the other hand have more of a hifi sound to them. They are just magical in my living room and also pair up nicely with the Skrams. The guy who I bought them from upgraded to the sh-50's and said the sm60f's sound every bit as good, but just don't go quite as low as them. Some sh-50 are on my wishlist..... someday. Pic added from last weekend https://imgur.com/gallery/UO0MrG7
  4. Yeah I am sort of kicking myself for going with the 4 ohm 21sw152's at this point. I am already running 2 4 ohms drivers off of each channel of my k10. Ill have to add another amp soon to add more subs
  5. They are addicting! 2 is a nice start but 4 has a nice symmetry to it. 6 makes a good stacking height for your tops but is an odd number for amp channels.... better just make it 8 haha!
  6. Thanks Peniku8. that totally makes sense. Thank for sharing with us your creation, looks amazing! Ill keep my eye open if you ever decide to do a write up about, would love to hear more about it. Cheers peniku8
  7. Thanks for your response peniku8. I'm not sure my dsp has the ability to set multiple filters like what you are suggesting but Ill dig it out when I get home tonight to take a look. I don't tend to mess with the volume control to shape my signal but sometimes Ill have an act playing on the system that seems to have a imbalanced signal compared to the other acts. In those cases I will try to compensate with eq only. Could you tell us more about your bandpass horns? Having such a flat response from 30 all the way to 190 sounds really impressive!
  8. Thanks Revolt sound, I hadn't come across this white paper before. Not entirely sure I am understanding it all but it seemed to make a convincing argument for me to try playing around with LR filters instead of the BW filters. I do have something that I am not fully understanding. How would you change a BW or LR filter between a 1st 2nd 3rd or 4th order filter? When I look through my settings on my venu360 the options for crossovers just has the list of filters, BW LR etc with options for slopes, 12db 18db 24db etc but there is no settings for what order they are... am I missing something?
  9. Hey guys. I've been experimenting with crossover points between a single Skram and a single Danley Sh46 in my living room over the last couple of weeks. I had never considered pushing the crossover point up higher than about 100hz but I am currently running a 125hz crossover point using BW24 filters and I can't fault the sound at all, in fact I think I am preferring it as sounds noticeably more dynamic and visceral. I can't tell for sure if this would translate the same at war volumes due to my smallish living room but it has me thinking more about experimenting some more. I am currently using the 24db BW filters as that is what is recommended in the Danley DSP recommendations but I'm wondering what the differences would be in trying some other settings. I don't know enough about crossovers to really know how they are going to effect the sound other than trying to objectively listen to the differences. Just curious if anyone has any input about this subject? My initial thoughts around keeping the crossover lower around 100 or so is that the SH-46 can easily get down into 80hz with no problems but I think the Skrams will provide more energy in the 80 to 125 area. What do you think would happen if I tried a different slope, something not as steep as a 24db, maybe something like a 12db or even less. Would that allow more sharing of that bandwidth between the Skram and the Danley? Could that maybe improve or hurt the potential output? I've gotten a pretty solid grasp on time and phase alignment so I am less afraid of allowing more sharing of certain frequencies between the two different cabs.... I am just not sure if this is a thing that people do, or if it is recommended at all. I guess my thinking was that in scenarios where the 46's are placed further away from the subs the 46's would still have output down into the lower frequencies rather than being cut off sharper at 125hz from the 24db slope. Any thoughts?
  10. Looks great Tahoejmfc! I run 4 Skrams on a k10 and have been very pleased.
  11. That is some serious business man, hope it does everything you want it to!
  12. You will have to give us your impressions of how the skram works with the Sh50. I have used mine with both sh46 and sm60f's and I think they are a really great match with both.
  13. Looking good you guys! Jealous of your cnc machines
  14. Another successful outing with the Skrams. Bit of a tough room acoustically, vaulted ceiling log A frame hall with concrete floor out in the Alberta Rocky Mountains. Scratched our heads for a few hours but eventually got it dialed in, helped a bunch once the room was packed. 2 more cabinets are near complete, still needs duratex and drivers mounted https://imgur.com/gallery/mRXr2Tr
  15. A pair of unloaded Othorns and some risers I built
  16. I doubt it. Psytrance needs a lot of power and control in the kick and midbass range and the skrams deliver it without breaking a sweat. Mind you the sh46’s pack a wallop themselves, matched up with the skrams its a potent combination. I’ve been in front of enough f1 and turbosound systems that really excel at reproducing psytrance transients and my system doesn’t leave me wanting at all. These Danleys continually blow me a away, I have no doubt Tom borrowed tech from recovered alien space craft 😂. I have a stack of 6 reconditioned Martin Audio b115 front loaded horn kick bins as well, next summer I’ll give them a go between the Danleys and Skrams just to see what happens
  17. Set up pic from our Halloween cabaret last night. Experimented with a 100hz crossover and found it to be the most impactful and cleanest config I’ve tried yet. Techno and psytrance all night, sounded incredible. https://imgur.com/gallery/qrU6jyD https://imgur.com/a/dacbWrI
  18. 2 more on the way https://imgur.com/gallery/dRGsebY
  19. What are the options for cooling a driver? I would suspect cooling the outer circumference of the magnet wouldn't be much help as the heat is created in the coil winding. What about directing air flow into the screen that covers the core of the magnet?
  20. From my understanding cnc machines often use slightly different software programs so there really isn't a one size fits all cnc file that will work with all machines. Its likely the dxf files on the first post will require some tweaking by the operator anyways. My cnc guy just converted the original pdf files to a format that works with his machine, added 50 bucks to labor price to do the conversion. Prices on the DS and SW are stupid up here in Canada. The best street price I have found for an SW was about 950 Canadian (about 720 US dollars). Thankfully I have a buddy who works for PK Sound here in Calgary, I've been buying mine through them for about 550 US dollars shipped. Only bummer is they have to come right from Italy so it has in the past taken between a month to two months to get here. On that note, I've started building another pair of cabinets so I can keep a pair in my livingroom at home. I'm weighing the pro's and con's of staying with the 21sw152's that I've used in the previous 4 cabs vs saving a bit of money and trying a pair of the DS drivers instead. It will be likely that occasionally Ill run all 6 together so maybe sticking with the same driver is my best move.... but it seems they do provide fairly similar performance. What do you guys think? Should I just stick with the same drivers to match the others? A final consideration is ill be using a lesser quality amp to run the ones Ill keep in my house, a crest prolite 7.5 vs the k10 I use for my others. Maybe the DS will work a bit better on the lesser amp?
  21. Ah, yeah that makes sense... was just an idea. Seems I fucked up putting a pair of my skrams in my livingroom... seems unacceptable to not leave them there. Just messaged my Cnc guy, another pair on the way.
  22. Hey Josh, what would happen if you blocked a port internally where the port starts? I personally don't need or feel the need to play with the tuning on mine but when I was constructing mine I thought to myself it might be easier to add the blockage internally where the vent port starts... It would also look nicer than doing it externally
  23. Ok great! Updated my notes One last question on the spacing. By keeping the subs within 1/4 wave length of each other within their operating freq range, that will ensure no destructive cancellations.... but will it effect the subs ability to couple to each other? Will you loose some output gained by having all of the subs side by side? I think there is a bit of a trap that you can fall into with how many cabinets you really need to fill a space. When I assembled by first system I started with a pair of my old RCF 4pro subs under a pair of the RCF towers. Pretty much right away I knew I was going to need more, so I added another pair of subs. The jump between 2 to 4 subs was a substantial improvement. Maybe a year after I added another pair but that time it didn't feel like such a big jump forward.... I eventually added another pair and ran it like that for pretty much a decade. The interesting thing was occasionally when I deployed only 6 or even 4 subs.... it really didn't feel like I was missing that much power. Obviously there is a point where you need more power to cover larger spaces and larger crowds but you should strongly consider really what your needs are before selling your house to afford more speaker cabinets haha. Not running your gear at full tilt is also a consideration for sure. On the flip side, the other thing I come across, especially in my city is that often crews bring literally too many cabinets into venues that just don't need that much gear. There is a point where I believe too much gear will have a negative effect over the listening experience. Yeah it certainly blurs your vision and re-arranges your guts, but if the low frequency pressure is so high that it literally overloads yours ears ability to discern what the rest of the music sounds like I really don't see the point. I suppose maybe some people simply want a visceral physical experience like that, but I think more people really want to experience the full range experience of the music artist they came to hear. For the venue sizes we use, I can't really think ill be left wanting with what my 4 skrams can put out..... maybe 6 just to get off the gas pedal a bit... but 8 would simply be overkill. I've got that paper bookmarked, there really is some good info in there. I used to get a fairly narrow hot spot out the front of my 8 old subs. Splaying them in a arc really helped even out the coverage out front... such a simple way to improve the directionality of a sub array
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