jay michael

This is the whole rig for now, I don’t think I’ll be adding anything more until we see what the future looks like…. Fucking covid. It’s perfectly balanced as is, I’d need more danley’s to keep up to more Skrams so the next leap would be expensive Haha. first time running it in a block like this, we melted some faces off, bass for days holy shit https://youtu.be/Bp4opVAjbZ4

The tower of DOOM

Its really terrible. I have many friends in the industry, music, dance, movies etc that have been hit terribly hard by this. A little bit of work opened up during the summer but I suspect when the snow comes up here shits going to get dismal again. I'm starting in person classroom instruction at the College in a few weeks, can't say I'm looking forward to it.

Sorry to hear that. We were lucky enough to sneak a couple small outings like this during the summer…. But cases are getting bad here again so I wouldn’t be surprised if we get some restrictions again soon. Hope things get better for you soon

A little to ad to this. When you start playing with different delay values you may find a couple that gives good additive summation, maybe even 1 or 2 with positive polarity and others with polarity inverted. What I've been doing is taking screen shots of each and at the end looking at each screen shot and seeing which one has the best or smoothest frequency response as well as the best phase traces that line up both at the crossover frequency and as far away above and below the crossover frequency. You really want to keep an eye out for null ripples forming above and below the crossover point. There should be 1 particular delay value that has the best combination of additive summation and alignment of the phase lines below and above the crossover point, that point should be your ideal place to set the system. Note: It may be worth trying a handful of crossover points as well, saving screen shots of all of the different delay values as each crossover point may give slightly different results.

Mad respect to you Josh for sharing your brain power with us, lots of happy campers on this weekend We spent all day Thursday really scrutinizing the tuning of the system before the crowds arrived. I built presets in my Venu360 with all the appropriate peq setting for both the Danleys and Skrams with proper measured delay profiles at 75/85/90/95/100/105 and 110hz crossover points. With a handful reference tracks in dubstep, Reggae, house, techno and psytrance, a few of us a/b'd all the various crossover points with those tracks and came to some conclusions. For the most flexible crossover point that sounded the best over all the genres of music we preferred the 95hz crossover point. The only genre we felt suffered a bit at that higher point was the dubstep tracks, they sounded a bit cleaner around 75 to 80hz. Anything kick drum driven seemed to benefit from letting the skrams play a bit higher. It still blows me away every time I hear them how tight and punchy these subs are, not typically what one would expect out of a big 21" driver. I would also say the 5 skram's are pretty close to keeping up with the pair of Sh-46's, with the sub amps wide open we had the Danley low amps around 95% and the high amps around 90%. Once we get the 6th Skram loaded the system should be pretty much perfectly balanced power wise. If we add more Skram's some day we will probably have to add another pair of tops as well. Here is a few more short phone recorded clips, they seem to give a good feel for the impact and punch of the system, but the really low deep sub stuff seems to not come across as good as it sounded in person, Iphones must compress the recording a bit or something. With some headphones these vids sound pretty good though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtuebCpml1Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tU3YXh4J4s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knf6HSPEypY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxxExGbyfSA

Hey everyone. I'm going to first off admit that I am not an expert REW user. I've drudged around the internet for a few years trying to find a reliable procedure for executing a proper phase alignment between tops and subs without spending money on something like Smaart. There have been some tools added to REW recently to assist in this, but I've never come across a proper explanation or tutorial on how to do it. Piecing together some bits and pieces i've found from a few different sources I think I may have it somewhat figured it out. Warning, I filmed this after a LONG hot day and was pretty burnt out. You'll notice I miss-spoke a few times towards the end using the wrong descriptors for what I was trying to say. Otherwise It should be easy enough to follow what I was doing. I've since used this procedure a few more times setting up my system in different configurations and I've been getting repeatable results that seem to make sense and sound really good. Perhaps this is old news to some of you but I thought I would share it to see if you might find it useful, or absolutely shoot holes in it if you think its out to lunch. End goal is I want a repeatable process that I can rely on, and maybe do a proper tutorial down the road to help others out. It seems like its one of those mystery processes that people ask a lot about. Let me know what you think, good or bad.

Sorry, not very descriptive in my post lol. We had 5 Skram's out under my Danley Sh-46 for 3 days this weekend, sadly I have a driver stuck in customs so the 6th Skram stayed at home. First time feeling like I had abundant power and amplification to really see what everything could do, used 3x CVR 3002 on subs, 1 skram per channel and 2x Crest Prolite 7.5 bi-amping the Danley's. Really happy how everything's come together, ran flawless all weekend and sounded fantastic with tons of headroom.

Very happy to have the Skrams outdoors again, always makes me smile hearing that clean tight bass https://youtu.be/bNxhrqLsKME

Its under 10 feet. I'm 6 foot, so in total the stack is about 9'ish I would say

Blowing out the cobwebs today

Sorry I didn't specifically take not of that, but I am going to play around with them again tomorrow so Ill try to get a sense for you. The fan's are quite noisy, to use in a theatre or listening room you would have to look at fan mods for sure.

Yeah its more like the opposite in this case. If the box resonates a lot, it will add its own sounds to musical output, which is not ideal. There are box designs out there that use thinner wood and extra bracing, so to an extent perhaps you could get away with it up to a point. If you are planning to use the recommended driver at the maximum powers the box will have a lot of energy in it, so good bracing is really important

I wouldn't go for a lightweight plywood like that for a design like this. Think of the cabinet like a musical instrument, the stiffness and density of the cabinet will contribute to the sound in many ways. If the cabinet can vibrate and resonate with the driver movement it will color the sound coming from it and you may not be happy with the outcome. If you can't do baltic birch you could get away with mdf as it quite solid and dense, its pretty heavy though.

Added a follow up video to my previous comparison between the K-10 and CVR 3002. More subs, higher power and load.

This is amazing, thanks Josh. Looks like I can open mine up to go a bit lower than what I had been doing previously. Thank you!

No stress, I can dig through it again. I did play around again a bit over the last week and I think to my ears at least I still like 100 to 110 hz crossover for most music styles. If I drop it down to 80-90 I think it sounds a bit better for stricktly bass music, but for house and techno, rock etc I prefer it a bit higher. Then again its harder hearing it proper indoors. Depending on our pandemic situation when summer rolls around I'm pretty keen on heading out to crown land for a number of days just to work on tuning.

Yeah someone really needs to do some proper bench testing for sure. I guess they beefed up this model already, the 3302 has more power apparently

https://www.facebook.com/CVRAUDIO

added some info in the Luke's amplifier test thread

Thanks SME. I'm just editing a follow up to the previous video. This time I was able to run the cvr up to 48 volts driving 4x 21sw152 at a 2 ohm load. No appreciable difference between it and the k10. I have no illusions that the cvr can hang with the k10 all the way to max power, but it can drive 4 21's on a 2 ohm load to pretty fun levels very well. Ill post the vid when its ready

I have no experience with the sinbosen sorry.

Hey guys. While not as rigorous as the excellent testing in this thread I put together a little vid doing some light testing and listening comparisons between the chinese CVR branded 3002 amplifier up against a Powersoft K-10. Might be a good option for people looking for some decent performance at a good price point. Maybe you will find it interesting. Ill have this set up for a couple more days so if you're quick and send me a request for ideas for further testing I can try to accommodate

Hey Josh. Curious if you would be willing to make a recommendation for high and low pass filters with recommended slopes your Skram design. It’s been a while since I’ve had mine out with the pandemic and all, but I’m planning a day at our studio tomorrow to get everything plugged in and spend some timing tuning and tweaking. Planning to get the measurement mic out and spend some time dialing in the system so I don’t get rusty haha. I’ve been happy with the setting I’ve been running which I don’t remember off hand but I’ve got some different amps on hand so willing to try some new things. Another goal for tomorrow is to try and get some comparison data between the Cvr 3002’s and the powersoft k-10.

Bummer about the drive man, that sucks. got any deployment pictures from the playa?