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jay michael

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jay michael last won the day on October 14

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About jay michael

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  1. Bummer about the drive man, that sucks. got any deployment pictures from the playa?
  2. I've decided to order one of the cvr d-3002's to see whats up with them. I don't have the equipment to bench test but I can do some a/b listening tests vs my K10. Ill report back
  3. Thank you for clarifying that for me, I will keep on doing what I am doing. SME, thanks again for your input. Phase alignment has been one of the biggest rabbit holes I've fought with over the last few years but I feel I've finally got a reasonably repeatable process that is giving me good results. peniku8, yeah I know know its not ideal but with this covid thing im trying not rack up too much dept for new sound gear. If/when things get back to normal Ill figure out something proper. I dont let anyone touch my gear so not worried about the random factor playing in. I did order one of those cvr amps, ill let you guys know what I think. Doing some bush camping in a couple weeks and taking some gear with me so will be able to ring it out a bit.
  4. Thank you. Yeah the possibility of one amp having more latency than the other has crossed my mind. They are both non dsp units. Ill need to get a mic on them and do some testing to confirm. On that note, I'm having trouble coming up with an answer reading through others posts. When using REW in the info I have gained from the tutorials it sounds like an external sound card is NOT required to use the acoustical timing reference functions for measuring for phase alignment. I have however came across a user who says an external sound card is absolutely required. I was messing around with my livingroom system today, made measurements both with my umik 1 wired usb right to my laptop, and then a second time using my external sound device. Both methods gave me near identical measurements. A user on a fb group has been discussing how to use the new time alignment features of rew so I've been playing around trying to get a feel for the methodology. I feel like im getting it, but if I cant trust the measurements due to sound card configurations then I'm not helping anything
  5. I'm actually heading to our local makerspace woodshop this weekend to cut up panels for another 4 of these. I gave a couple of my music nerdy friends a demo and they immediately asked me to build pairs for them. For less than 1k Canadian you can build a pair with a berry nu3k included in the price. Unreal value for the dollar.
  6. I used the 31hz slot design configuration. If I stuff one side of the vent closed it tunes to 22hz. In my experimenting I much preferred leaving both ports open. There is still usable output down to about 27ish hz.
  7. And thanks for sharing your experience with your amplifier. Its not that I doubt that these amplifiers cant be good, there are many examples of first rate quality goods coming out of china.
  8. Yeah thats the thing I guess. I've got a berry nu3k in my living room and that doesn't really stress me out as if it piles up it only effects me, different story when your in the woods with 500 people haha.
  9. Hmm, I had assumed that using different brand amplifiers on the same subs wouldn't be the best idea, but perhaps its not as bad as I had figured. That had crossed my mind but considering my location in Canada shipping to and from the US is stupid expensive and probably wouldnt make it worth it. But I think I will throw it out there just in case. Secondly, yes I had seen a few people mention they run their powersoft amps like this but to me it seems risky to me. Considering I need to rely on my amps sometimes for 3 days straight I would rather run them in more conservative ways. Thanks for the input. Well, it was something I hadn't considered much before but I have been taking some time to research the CVR amps that seemingly have flooded the sound system cultures of the US, Bahamas, Jamaica, France etc. I've really dug deep into every mention of them I can find online and haven't really found any negative comments about them. There is lots of very positive comments about performance and reliability. I've been talking personally with a few users of them and they swear by them. That being said, I still have a mental block about investing in something like that, but on the other hand I can get 3-4 of them for the price of 1 used k-10. One user I spoke with in New York says he's deployed over 30 of them over the last 3 or 4 years and they get worked hard every weekend. He's had to repair three of them, CVR ships him new complete boards for the failed channel for free if within the 2 year warranty, or for 200 US if outside of the warranty, parts arrive in 3-5 days. So yeah, I don't know. I think I would still prefer to stay with something more known, but I guess those can fail just as anything else. My prolite that went down had only been used about 10 deployments. Link to an internal view of the cvr d-3002 amplifiers
  10. Happy summer everyone. Ive got myself stuck in an awkward dilemma looking for a solution. I originally built 4 Skrams using 21sw152 4 ohm drivers and was lucky to come across a right place at the right time deal on a powersoft k10 which has been kicking ass on these subs over the last couple seasons. This last fall I knocked off another pair of Skrams to add some more headroom and give me more flexible deployment options. The K-10 was already maxed out on a 2 ohms load for the original 4- 21's so in the interim I've driven the additional pair with a prolite 7.5, not ideal I know. I'm looking to square things up and get all the subs running off of the same amplification. I've been watching for deals on another used k-10, I had hoped due to the covid thing some sweet heart deals would show up but that hasn't been the case. Also being from Canada any powersoft purchase will require stupid shipping costs duties etc and at current prices I'm pretty much looking at 4k Canadian, which I'm not able to justify. I have no plans to add anymore subs down the road, the 6 are well balanced with my tops. Current options as I see it. Live with the mis-matched amp thing, or sell the K-10 and buy 3 lesser amps that can still drive a pair of 21's each properly. At most I'm feeding the drivers 500 watts, more often 350-400 depending on circumstances. I like to not give up any quality of sound to what the K-10 can provide and bonus points would be something that could still in an emergency drive all 6 drivers decently if one amp went down. I would prefer class D to keep the rack on the lighter side. What do you think? Am a missing a more obvious solution? Budget in the 4-5k range, pretty sure I could get 3k Canadian for the K-10. Any recommendations for amps with good reputation that will happily drive a pair of 21sw152's and sound good doing it? Cheers
  11. Thought I should update this thread as I went ahead and built a pair of VBSS subs to live with my Danleys. The hype is real, these are fantastic sounding subs considering their inexpensive cost to build. They wont crack the stucco on my ceiling like the Skrams did, but for listening to music at moderately loud listening levels I couldn't have wished for a better outcome. Thanks for the help everyone, the project was a success! And I didn't blow a bunch of money I didn't need to spend in these strange times. Aesthetically I think they make for a great match with the Danley's as well. https://imgur.com/gallery/R1JSs05
  12. I got an email back from DIYSG. The custom driver coming with their soon to be released 18" kits is based on this driver, but modified in some ways custom for their application. To early to tell as we don't know what changes were made, but what do you think about this driver as a starting point? https://qcomponents.ca/Eminence-KAPPA-PRO-18LF-8.html Based on the evolution of their offerings, the mbm-12 and 15, I imagine the 18 should be pretty similar to the vbss just with a better driver. From what I can tell the same guy has developed all of them.
  13. Yeah I noticed that as well, usable may be around 11mm. Seems to be pretty decent and capable driver for what it is. The price is just insane. A guy could likely build 10 cabs for about 2000 my dollars.
  14. Yeah the more I dig into the vbss it looks better and better. It will be more cabs and more space but they are just silly cheap to build, 4 cabs would run me about 850 bucks Canadian. I'm sure my wife would be fine with a row of 18's in the living room haha! Still going to see what diysg has cooking with their new 18 cab when they add it to the website sometime this week. Its going to be more money but will have better drivers for sure. He said the kit its going to cost just slightly more than the 15 as the driver has a ceramic magnet vs the neo in the 15. A pair landed in Canada should be around 800 my dollars, plus some ply to finish them off.
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